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Did the xclamp fix, but wont overheat.
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habhater
Newbie
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23. March 2010 @ 19:04 |
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I just finished doing the xclamp fix that i found here and i am trying to overheat it for proper bonding. But the lights stay at 3 and will not go to 2. Any suggestions?
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360lifer
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24. March 2010 @ 11:45 |
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Well, I seen videos of people keeping it on for 20-30 minutes before it would over heat.
When I had a e74 error, I just took off the gpu heatsink, cleaned it a bit and put it back on. I put the 360 back together and used towels to over heat it. You will know its over heated as the light on the power brick will go from green to yellow. Been working fine for over a week now with constant use. Just Cause 2 is great!
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hooterjh
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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24. March 2010 @ 12:38 |
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i heard the 360 wont overheat for someone who makes multile threads asking the same thing in one forum. Could be the problem...
"This console has been banned from Xbox LIVE for violating terms of service, Yada yada yada..."
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hooterjh
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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24. March 2010 @ 12:38 |
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i heard the 360 wont overheat for someone who makes multile threads asking the same thing in one forum. Could be the problem...
"This console has been banned from Xbox LIVE for violating terms of service, Yada yada yada..."
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Senior Member
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24. March 2010 @ 15:03 |
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I dont understand why people want to force their system to overheat and go outside it's normal operating temperature. Bonding? Makes no sense. The reason you still have the 3 red is because you have broken solder somewhere. Try the tutorial in my sig to get the solder to actually melt back.
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jerred121
Member
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24. March 2010 @ 15:26 |
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Originally posted by hooterjh:
i heard the 360 wont overheat for someone who makes multile threads asking the same thing in one forum. Could be the problem...
I lol'd...
Why do you want to get 2 red lights? WTF have you been reading? trust me bud, I do this for a living - You do NOT want 2 red lights! That means you are over heating your CPU - which is likely not your problem - it is the GPU you want to heat up for "proper bonding" NOT the CPU - I don't care where you read this or whole told you it!
Here is what you do:
-Find something to insulate the gpu like a cloth or something (I use craft foam) and put it on top of the gpu heatsink - don't be stupid and use something that is going to melt/catch on fire easily. - If your heatsink has one of the copper arms and a smaller heatsink attached, then you'll want to wrap it up to minimize it's effect.
-Keep the case open with the fan and dvd drive hooked up w/ the drive over the insulated GPU heatsink.
-Place the fan over the CPU heatsink so it is blowing air on to it, but it a way that it isn't cooling the GPU much.
-Heat it up the first time for about 30 min - Again DON'T BE STUPID - Keep an eye on it, don't go off to the store only to return and find that biitch caught ablaze and reduced your mom's garage to ash!
-Turn it off and let it cool for about 15 min - naturally don't put it in the frig or something dumb like that...
-Turn it back on, if it works... yay! Test it for a few hours before you put it all back together.
-If it doesn't work, don't throw yourself to the ground, kicking and screaming on your sponge bob rug, in your nice new spiderman onesie PJs.... heat it up again for 45 min - 1 hour, let it cool down and then try it again... Keep heating it up, incrementing the amount of time spent heating by 15 min - 1/2 hour (depending on your patients).
-Sometimes I'll have to heat a GPU up for 3-4 hours before it gets real hot and re-solders itself. There is no exact science when it come to repairing RRoDs - just trial and error.
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jerred121
Member
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24. March 2010 @ 15:43 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
I dont understand why people want to force their system to overheat and go outside it's normal operating temperature. Bonding? Makes no sense. The reason you still have the 3 red is because you have broken solder somewhere. Try the tutorial in my sig to get the solder to actually melt back.
Just watched the video... don't do this. This guy A) isn't insulating any of the other components - he is just going crazy with the heat gun. B) he is heating the CPU as well which is never the cause of the 0102 error - it is the GPU (Don't take it personal wooly). Again, YOU DO NOT WANT TO HEAT THE CPU!
I am not just "pretty successful" when it comes to 0102 errors I am 100% successful - I can't even recall how many I have done now with out a single console coming back.
The only other method I would consider is finding someone with or buying a real reflow machine or reflow oven.
PSP-modded, ps2 fat-modded w/fliptop and swap magic, PS3-YLoD, DS Lite w/ Acekard 2i, Xbox 360 - JTAGed with no dvd-rom  |
Senior Member
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24. March 2010 @ 16:33 |
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I heat the cpu as well so that I can spread heat around the board rather than in just one spot. It's not "crazy", there's a pattern to it. You cant really be sure exactly where the break in the solder has occured (though with 0102 it could be under gpu OR the hana chip). I have 100% results with 0102s and I've never melted plastic or popped caps.
It's funny how you claim 100% yet say you have to heat them over and over again or run them 3-4 hours at a time. I have a hard time believing they all of a sudden go from rrod to working after several overheats. My method isnt "trial and error", it's the same way every single time.
What about the other errors? 0110, 0020, e74, etc? I know you cant fix ram errors at all with overheating, so what do you do? Pennies?
Your method is the crazier one you force your system to go WAY above it's normal operating temperature in an effort to melt the solder back. But it takes 217C/422F to melt the solder! This is way hotter than you're going to be able to get from just putting craft foam and the dvd drive on it (and certainly more dangerous).
The only reason it may be working is if you do the x-clamp to relieve flexing and the overheating has allowed the broken solder to make contact but it wont be melted back together. The error will come back sooner and sooner each time until you're overheating for 4 hours on end and it still wont work.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 24. March 2010 @ 22:03
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Senior Member
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24. March 2010 @ 21:38 |
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I'm sure that wooly's way is probably the better method of ridding yourself of RROD. I've used wooly's methods for friends 360s and have been successful (thanks for the nice vids wooly :) ) I've also done the "overheating" method with success. I've got 2 boxs right now that have been done via overheating method going on a year now. They're my personal 360s, so I just wanted to get them working quickly. However, if they do end up RROD again, I'm using the heatgun on them (thanks again wooly!). I'm lazy when it comes to fixing my own RRODs lol. I have read on here people who have done the overheating method that are running 3 years strong. I've also read on here about people that only lasted a couple of days to a week. I guess it depends on the 360, and the user.
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jerred121
Member
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25. March 2010 @ 06:39 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
I heat the cpu as well so that I can spread heat around the board rather than in just one spot. It's not "crazy", there's a pattern to it. You cant really be sure exactly where the break in the solder has occured (though with 0102 it could be under gpu OR the hana chip). I have 100% results with 0102s and I've never melted plastic or popped caps.
0102 is never the ana - it sometimes is the cpu or ram, although that is extremely rare. I see the pattern, perhaps crazy wasn't the correct adjective.
Originally posted by w00ly:
It's funny how you claim 100% yet say you have to heat them over and over again or run them 3-4 hours at a time. I have a hard time believing they all of a sudden go from rrod to working after several overheats. My method isnt "trial and error", it's the same way every single time.
Wow dude, you took my post really personal... Well I have a contact list at my shop full of over 800 customers - I estimate that about 1/4 of them are 360 related and i haven't had 1 returned... believe what you want...
Originally posted by w00ly:
What about the other errors? 0110, 0020, e74, etc? I know you cant fix ram errors at all with overheating, so what do you do? Pennies?
Nope, never used pennies, but your desire to belittle me is cute though. Don't get me wrong, I have a little homemade reflow station similar to the one on xbox-experts.com, but I hardly ever have any call to use it on 360s - mostly wiis and some graphics cards here and there. But i completely insulate everything I am not working on.
Originally posted by w00ly:
Your method is the crazier one you force your system to go WAY above it's normal operating temperature in an effort to melt the solder back. But it takes 217C/422F to melt the solder! This is way hotter than you're going to be able to get from just putting craft foam and the dvd drive on it (and certainly more dangerous).
Actually solder has a melting temp anywhere from 190 to 840 °F - not sure about the stuff M$ uses in the 360s but either it isn't that high or my heating method works better than you think - because it works. And I'm basically only heating the gpu, everything else is little warm at the most.
In your video you tell people to put the xclamps back on! That was the cause of the RRoD in the first place - Im willing to bet that you get a 360 back before I do, if you actually do this, since it's been over 2 years since my first RRoD repair and I've yet to have a complaint.
Originally posted by w00ly:
The only reason it may be working is if you do the x-clamp to relieve flexing and the overheating has allowed the broken solder to make contact but it wont be melted back together. The error will come back sooner and sooner each time until you're overheating for 4 hours on end and it still wont work.
Yeah well you can't argue results... oh wait that's exactly what you are trying to do... I never said that you method didn't work, as I'm sure it does. And this statement "the overheating has allowed the broken solder to make contact but it wont be melted back together." is a oxymoron - How does the solder become malleable without melting? Have you ever soldered before? Do you have any idea what solder is actually like to work with? Don't act like you know more about anything than I do and I'll try to do the same.
PSP-modded, ps2 fat-modded w/fliptop and swap magic, PS3-YLoD, DS Lite w/ Acekard 2i, Xbox 360 - JTAGed with no dvd-rom |
Senior Member
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25. March 2010 @ 11:38 |
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Originally posted by jerred121:
Originally posted by w00ly:
I heat the cpu as well so that I can spread heat around the board rather than in just one spot. It's not "crazy", there's a pattern to it. You cant really be sure exactly where the break in the solder has occured (though with 0102 it could be under gpu OR the hana chip). I have 100% results with 0102s and I've never melted plastic or popped caps.
0102 is never the ana - it sometimes is the cpu or ram, although that is extremely rare. I see the pattern, perhaps crazy wasn't the correct adjective.
err ok I checked the error code list and while 0102 isnt listed as being hana related but there are many that are listed as "gpu/hana" . Without an x-ray you cant be sure where the break has occured which is the point to my pattern.
Originally posted by jerred121:
Originally posted by w00ly:
It's funny how you claim 100% yet say you have to heat them over and over again or run them 3-4 hours at a time. I have a hard time believing they all of a sudden go from rrod to working after several overheats. My method isnt "trial and error", it's the same way every single time.
Wow dude, you took my post really personal... Well I have a contact list at my shop full of over 800 customers - I estimate that about 1/4 of them are 360 related and i haven't had 1 returned... believe what you want...
I didnt take it personal. I said I dont understand how it can be "100%" effective yet "trial and error" and requiring 4 hours of overheating to fix.
Between ps3s, wiis and 360s though only 1/4 of your customers are 360? That'd mean the ps3 or wii are less reliable than the 360...come on now, we all know you're BSing now =P
Originally posted by jerred121:
Originally posted by w00ly:
What about the other errors? 0110, 0020, e74, etc? I know you cant fix ram errors at all with overheating, so what do you do? Pennies?
Nope, never used pennies, but your desire to belittle me is cute though. Don't get me wrong, I have a little homemade reflow station similar to the one on xbox-experts.com, but I hardly ever have any call to use it on 360s - mostly wiis and some graphics cards here and there. But i completely insulate everything I am not working on.
Who's belittling?? Jesus you're full of yourself. All I asked was if you've fixed the other errors (to which you avoided the question). Have you ever fixed 0110, 0020 and e74s with overheating?
Originally posted by jerred121:
Originally posted by w00ly:
Your method is the crazier one you force your system to go WAY above it's normal operating temperature in an effort to melt the solder back. But it takes 217C/422F to melt the solder! This is way hotter than you're going to be able to get from just putting craft foam and the dvd drive on it (and certainly more dangerous).
Actually solder has a melting temp anywhere from 190 to 840 °F - not sure about the stuff M$ uses in the 360s but either it isn't that high or my heating method works better than you think - because it works. And I'm basically only heating the gpu, everything else is little warm at the most.
Actually the solder has a melting temp of what I just told you, 422F. What kind of temperature do you reach by overheating?
Originally posted by jerred121:
In your video you tell people to put the xclamps back on! That was the cause of the RRoD in the first place - Im willing to bet that you get a 360 back before I do, if you actually do this, since it's been over 2 years since my first RRoD repair and I've yet to have a complaint.
I absolutely did not say to put the x-clamps on. I said they were replaced. In my tutorial and the video's description I tell exactly how I do the x-clamp fix.
Originally posted by jerred121:
Originally posted by w00ly:
The only reason it may be working is if you do the x-clamp to relieve flexing and the overheating has allowed the broken solder to make contact but it wont be melted back together. The error will come back sooner and sooner each time until you're overheating for 4 hours on end and it still wont work.
Yeah well you can't argue results... oh wait that's exactly what you are trying to do... I never said that you method didn't work, as I'm sure it does. And this statement "the overheating has allowed the broken solder to make contact but it wont be melted back together." is a oxymoron - How does the solder become malleable without melting? Have you ever soldered before? Do you have any idea what solder is actually like to work with? Don't act like you know more about anything than I do and I'll try to do the same.
Wow you're taking this so personal! Any how, I've soldered plenty but my point is you have to reach a temperature of 422F to get the solder to melt and the xbox cannot generate that kind of heat on it's own, therefore the solder hasn't melted. If it works fine but I tried the overheating method on my first RRoD system a long time ago and it only lasted a month. I overheated again and it lasted less than a day. Since I switched to the heatgun they've all been permanent fixes (except 1 xenon that got really hot (of course) so I did the 12v mod and it's been perm too)
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jerred121
Member
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25. March 2010 @ 16:07 |
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I didnt take it personal. I said I dont understand how it can be "100%" effective yet "trial and error" and requiring 4 hours of overheating to fix.
Ok, your running with that 4 hour thing a bit much, there has actually only been 2 machines that I had to heat up for more than 45 min. Call me a liar all you want, I don't care - the internet is the ultimate social and cultural equalizer you could say that your rich as fuuck and bangin a perfect 10 model and I can never know for sure, so speculation is a complete waste of time...
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Between ps3s, wiis and 360s though only 1/4 of your customers are 360? That'd mean the ps3 or wii are less reliable than the 360...come on now, we all know you're BSing now =P
Don't you think you are being a little presumptuous? At any point in any one of my previous posts did I say that I exclusively repair consoles? Did I say I repaired PS3s (only 1 lens replacement actually)? Most of my business is PC and networking. In fact, this morning I was inspired by our little correspondence here
so I tallied up my contact list which is actually 1072 different customers served in about 2 1/2 years - 339 360s - I didn't take the time to calculate how many of those were RRoD, though I estimate it is about 60%.
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All I asked was if you've fixed the other errors (to which you avoided the question). Have you ever fixed 0110, 0020 and e74s with overheating?
I didn't avoid the question, I actually answered it, but I suppose I have to spell it out for you; I sort of implied that I have a reflow station in my previous post didn't I? Well no, I didn't imply it, I said it. So that would imply that I do use another method similar to yours, but being that 0102 is the most common, I normally don't have to.
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Actually the solder has a melting temp of what I just told you, 422F. What kind of temperature do you reach by overheating?
I was going to crack a joke about how maybe I'll go all Ghost Hunters on the next 360 I do and by an infrared thermometer just to appease you, and then make a remark about how I don't care for your approval (which is true). But those thermometers are actually a lot cheaper than I though ($50-$100) so I actually might pick one of those fuckers up, lol.
PSP-modded, ps2 fat-modded w/fliptop and swap magic, PS3-YLoD, DS Lite w/ Acekard 2i, Xbox 360 - JTAGed with no dvd-rom |
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AssKlown
Member
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25. March 2010 @ 19:11 |
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wow... read through this post just to see what was going on... and wow did it ever take a 180 to somewhere completely different... why did this turn into a pissing contest?? why don't we all share our techniques in hopes that someone take what they want/need, and fix their console.. after all, aren't we all here to play games!!
just my 2 cents... pls don't take it personally... no dis-respect directed towards anyone.
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