I looked around and seem to come up with lame answers such as unplug the xbox for 10 seconds or call microsoft, so I ask the vet's here. I fixed the box via W00ly's heat gun method, box works great but controller wont sync. Both rings light up on controller and xbox, and controller turns box on, but won't show single sync light or even open tray. What gives? Controllers are wireless btw.
i am having trouble understanding what you mean, you say the lights come on and the controller turns the xbox on but wont sync? how could it turn the box on if it was not synced?
Originally posted by peluynati: i am having trouble understanding what you mean, you say the lights come on and the controller turns the xbox on but wont sync? how could it turn the box on if it was not synced?
Thats exactly what Im wondering.
It powers on with the controller,
It will sync up to the controller until it needs to assign a player number,
The xbox will then act as though the controller is not connected and the controller will continue to flash all four slots around the home button.
Thanks, but surely "someone" has gone through this before? With all the rrod fixing going on around here. I read everything from stand on one foot and pat your head to, replace the RF board. I would replace it except for the fact that I dont believe it could go out just like that and, it halfway works. I see alot of people with this issue on google only "after" they have had some rrod work done to their xbox.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
I did a reflow for a customer once that had that exact same problem. It would turn on with the play and charge cable and when you pulled the cable out the controller would still be in sync. After you turned the xbox off the controller would still stay on when unplugged (even if you turned it off with the guide button). Then you would have to pull the battery pack to turn off the controller. I tried 3 different rf boards and came to the conclusion that it's a cold solder point under the southbridge somewhere and that the reflow must have straightened the board out more so that the chip lost continuity with the board. I would think the southbridge clamp fix would work but i've never attempted it.
It could have also been that i got the board too hot. If i look back at all the xbox's i did with my old setup i could see that the temps at the chip easily reached 280C. Now my target for any lead-free solder motherboard is 230C. 230C is about 446F, 260C is 500F and you'll start to burn the flux at that point. 280C is 536F and you'll burn and discolor everything, you can also get the processor die hot enough to separate from the processor.
Either buy a wired controller or try to reflow the southbridge with flux. Though trying to fix the problem with a heatgun might cause more damage, just be careful.
