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Help with drive replacements and spoofing
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Sythron
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29. June 2009 @ 21:16 |
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I have an Xbox 360 where the DVD drive (Hitachi) does not read anything put into it.
I have a brand New Samsung ms28 drive that I want to replace it with, I just want to know if this is possible and if it is safe (not getting banned from Xbox Live).
And if anyone can provide a tutorial on how to do it...
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AfterDawn Addict
2 product reviews
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29. June 2009 @ 21:53 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
I have an Xbox 360 where the DVD drive (Hitachi) does not read anything put into it.
I have a brand New Samsung ms28 drive that I want to replace it with, I just want to know if this is possible and if it is safe (not getting banned from Xbox Live).
And if anyone can provide a tutorial on how to do it...
In Jungle Flasher:
Load original Hitachi firmware into source.
Load ix1.6 for Samsung into target.
Click spoof source to target.
Go to MTKFlash tab and get Samsung into vendor mode and flash.
You might be able to fix the reading problem of the Hitachi with a POT Calibration of the laser. If that doesn't fix it I would go ahead and replace with Samsung.
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Sythron
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29. June 2009 @ 21:58 |
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Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by Sythron:
I have an Xbox 360 where the DVD drive (Hitachi) does not read anything put into it.
I have a brand New Samsung ms28 drive that I want to replace it with, I just want to know if this is possible and if it is safe (not getting banned from Xbox Live).
And if anyone can provide a tutorial on how to do it...
In Jungle Flasher:
Load original Hitachi firmware into source.
Load ix1.6 for Samsung into target.
Click spoof source to target.
Go to MTKFlash tab and get Samsung into vendor mode and flash.
You might be able to fix the reading problem of the Hitachi with a POT Calibration of the laser. If that doesn't fix it I would go ahead and replace with Samsung.
Problem the 079 Hitachi isn't reading the 79 Unlock CD so I don't have the original hitachi firmware or the key.
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AfterDawn Addict
2 product reviews
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29. June 2009 @ 22:02 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by Sythron:
I have an Xbox 360 where the DVD drive (Hitachi) does not read anything put into it.
I have a brand New Samsung ms28 drive that I want to replace it with, I just want to know if this is possible and if it is safe (not getting banned from Xbox Live).
And if anyone can provide a tutorial on how to do it...
In Jungle Flasher:
Load original Hitachi firmware into source.
Load ix1.6 for Samsung into target.
Click spoof source to target.
Go to MTKFlash tab and get Samsung into vendor mode and flash.
You might be able to fix the reading problem of the Hitachi with a POT Calibration of the laser. If that doesn't fix it I would go ahead and replace with Samsung.
Problem the 079 Hitachi isn't reading the 79 Unlock CD so I don't have the original hitachi firmware or the key.
What was the problem when it tried to read games? Open Tray?
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Sythron
Member
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29. June 2009 @ 22:03 |
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Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by Sythron:
Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by Sythron:
I have an Xbox 360 where the DVD drive (Hitachi) does not read anything put into it.
I have a brand New Samsung ms28 drive that I want to replace it with, I just want to know if this is possible and if it is safe (not getting banned from Xbox Live).
And if anyone can provide a tutorial on how to do it...
In Jungle Flasher:
Load original Hitachi firmware into source.
Load ix1.6 for Samsung into target.
Click spoof source to target.
Go to MTKFlash tab and get Samsung into vendor mode and flash.
You might be able to fix the reading problem of the Hitachi with a POT Calibration of the laser. If that doesn't fix it I would go ahead and replace with Samsung.
Problem the 079 Hitachi isn't reading the 79 Unlock CD so I don't have the original hitachi firmware or the key.
What was the problem when it tried to read games? Open Tray?
Yeah, it would always say "Open Tray" no matter what was put into it. DVDs, Games, and I guess now CDs as the 79 Unlock doens't work either.
Is there anything that can be done? And thanks Leerage you're always coming to my rescue with your vast 360 knowledge! Lol, I love you!
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AfterDawn Addict
2 product reviews
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29. June 2009 @ 22:08 |
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Here is the tutorial for the POT Calibration. POT Calibration
All POT calibrations are done to the DVD adjustment side of the laser so I'm not sure about the CD side. You will see what I'm talking about in the tutorial.
If you open up the Hitachi and eject it with the case off, does the laser light up? Don't look directly into it though!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 29. June 2009 @ 22:08
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Sythron
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29. June 2009 @ 22:15 |
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Originally posted by leerage:
Here is the tutorial for the POT Calibration. POT Calibration
All POT calibrations are done to the DVD adjustment side of the laser so I'm not sure about the CD side. You will see what I'm talking about in the tutorial.
If you open up the Hitachi and eject it with the case off, does the laser light up? Don't look directly into it though!
That POT Cali looks complex haha, I don't think I have the tools for it. I opened up the Hitachi case and when I eject and then close tray the red laser appears... it blinks 3 times.
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AfterDawn Addict
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29. June 2009 @ 22:17 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
Originally posted by leerage:
Here is the tutorial for the POT Calibration. POT Calibration
All POT calibrations are done to the DVD adjustment side of the laser so I'm not sure about the CD side. You will see what I'm talking about in the tutorial.
If you open up the Hitachi and eject it with the case off, does the laser light up? Don't look directly into it though!
That POT Cali looks complex haha, I don't think I have the tools for it. I opened up the Hitachi case and when I eject and then close tray the red laser appears... it blinks 3 times.
The POT calibration is actually pretty easy. Just need a multimeter that will read at 20k Ohms. I'm thinking you can get just a little more life out of the 79 just to read the 79 unlock CD. Other wise it is desolder the TSOP chip to read the firmware with an external programmer.
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Sythron
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29. June 2009 @ 22:21 |
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Lol oh my goodness!
Might have to make a trip to a local electronics store tomorrow. I hope I can. The drive also makes a buzzing sound when trying to read discs that lasts for about 8 seconds.
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Senior Member
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29. June 2009 @ 22:44 |
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you can buy a cheap multimeter for 5 bucks or a brand new laser for around 10. just a thought.
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AfterDawn Addict
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29. June 2009 @ 22:48 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
Lol oh my goodness!
Might have to make a trip to a local electronics store tomorrow. I hope I can. The drive also makes a buzzing sound when trying to read discs that lasts for about 8 seconds.
Yeah that is a definite sign it is struggling to read the game or CD. I would try the POT calibration to get a little more life out of it and then run the 79 unlock so you can dump the firmware.
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Sythron
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29. June 2009 @ 23:11 |
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I hope it can get the key after the calibration... I hope I do it right at least.
The tutorial says to connect the multimeter to the 2 spots on the DVD pot, would this fix the CD reading issues to?
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AfterDawn Addict
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29. June 2009 @ 23:18 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
I hope it can get the key after the calibration... I hope I do it right at least.
The tutorial says to connect the multimeter to the 2 spots on the DVD pot, would this fix the CD reading issues to?
You might have to adjust the CD POT. I am not for sure what it would be though. Try doing as the tutorial suggest and only do the DVD POT. By adjusting the DVD POT you will increase the laser strength so maybe it will be enough for the 79 Unlock work. I will test my BenQ and see what the CD POT reads at.
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Sythron
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29. June 2009 @ 23:26 |
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Thanks man I really appreciate if you would and sorta give me some direction cause I am going into this completely blank.
My uncle has a multimeter that will read 20 ohms so I am borrowing that tomorrow but I don't want to completely fry the laser.
Worst comes to wost I just rip apart the TSOP (desolder) and the pop it into an external programmer to get the key and then toss the entire drive into the trash and spoof the key to the Samsung?
Can I put this Hitachi 079's PCB board into a Samsung drive to get the Key? Or just swap with another working laser Hitachi 79's PCB to get the key?
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AfterDawn Addict
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29. June 2009 @ 23:43 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
Thanks man I really appreciate if you would and sorta give me some direction cause I am going into this completely blank.
My uncle has a multimeter that will read 20 ohms so I am borrowing that tomorrow but I don't want to completely fry the laser.
Make sure it will read 20 K Ohms.
Originally posted by Sythron:
Worst comes to wost I just rip apart the TSOP (desolder) and the pop it into an external programmer to get the key and then toss the entire drive into the trash and spoof the key to the Samsung?
You can do that. Most people don't have an external programmer though. If you do it is an option to get the DVDkey.
Originally posted by Sythron:
Can I put this Hitachi 079's PCB board into a Samsung drive to get the Key? Or just swap with another working laser Hitachi 79's PCB to get the key?
This is probably your best route if the POT calibration fails. Swap the 79s PCB into a working 79 and read the key that way. Unfortunately you can't swap a 79 PCB into a Samsung.
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30. June 2009 @ 00:21 |
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There's a guy over on the 360Mods forums named mightywiz who has a programmer. I think he charges $25 to fix your drive, $10 to get the key off of it and return it, and free to get the key and he keeps the drive. So, just giving you an option if you're interested in that.
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Sythron
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30. June 2009 @ 06:05 |
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Thanks everyone for the help I will let you know how things go with the multimeter.
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Sythron
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1. July 2009 @ 12:36 |
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Quick question, if I mess up the POT Calibration I will still be able to do the PCB swap right?
Also do you know or would recommend doing so... if the removal of the TSOP chip on the drives PCB is just the easier route? After some research it's just heatgun and scalpel for removal of the epoxy but then how to remove the TSOP chip?
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AfterDawn Addict
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1. July 2009 @ 12:46 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
Quick question, if I mess up the POT Calibration I will still be able to do the PCB swap right?
Yes, you can still swap PCBs.
Originally posted by Sythron:
Also do you know or would recommend doing so... if the removal of the TSOP chip on the drives PCB is just the easier route? After some research it's just heatgun and scalpel for removal of the epoxy but then how to remove the TSOP chip?
I know bhetrick has an external programmer and probably would read the TSOP for you.
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Sythron
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2. July 2009 @ 00:38 |
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I think I will try the POT Calibration this Friday and then if that doesn't work wait for a Hitachi 79 (does it have to be the same FL model or can it be the FK?) and then switch the PCB.
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Sythron
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3. July 2009 @ 15:21 |
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So the calibration didn't exactly work out.
I am going to order a drive from eBay just wanna make sure do I need to order the FL model or can I order the FK model?
One is cheaper than the other for some reason but I just want to make sure so I don't mess up. Does the model of 79 Hitachi have to be the same?
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2009 @ 18:29 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
So the calibration didn't exactly work out.
I am going to order a drive from eBay just wanna make sure do I need to order the FL model or can I order the FK model?
One is cheaper than the other for some reason but I just want to make sure so I don't mess up. Does the model of 79 Hitachi have to be the same?
I would actually just order a laser for the drive and it will be cheaper.
Hitachi Laser example
I would also go ahead and purchase a BenQ VAD6038 and spoof your info to it once you pull the info off of the Hitachi. Then you could turn around and sell the Hitachi and make a little money back.
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Sythron
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4. July 2009 @ 01:45 |
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Well I have Samsung Drives already but to install the lasers don't you have to solder and resolder? I would want to avoid anything too complex. A simple switch of the PCBs sounds easy enough for me.
I have BenQ and Samsung drives I was planning on switching the Hitachi with a Sammy... and keeping the ordered Hitachi in case I get anymore Xboxes that are like this one.
I just need to know if it matters that I got a FL/FK?
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2009 @ 03:48 |
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I believe you need to get the FK if you had the FK or if you had the FL you need to get the FL. I think the Samsung and Hitachi laser are interchangeable.
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Sythron
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4. July 2009 @ 20:24 |
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Originally posted by leerage:
I believe you need to get the FK if you had the FK or if you had the FL you need to get the FL. I think the Samsung and Hitachi laser are interchangeable.
I would love to just switch the lasers but would I have to resolder?
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