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JTAG / NAND problems
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30. December 2010 @ 01:27 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Did you or your friend do the soldering. I remember you said he's into electronics. When I did my Jasper I was getting error codes and my problem was D7 not making a good connection. After I fixed it then bingo. I wish you were a bit closer where I could look at it but that's not gonna happen.
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ni7ewing
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30. December 2010 @ 08:54 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hey Young_One, I did the soldering, but I'm gonna get my friend to look at it, he's an electrical engineer and worked making boards for a few years. So I trust him.

I'll take some photos to attach to the thread later so you can get a look.
ni7ewing
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31. December 2010 @ 14:15 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hey Young_One, my friend and I are going over that board now, and he seems to think that there's no copper left on the FT2N3 point, but the rest of it seems pretty good.

We're going to trying to trace it now to find alternate points.

Would you know of another one we can try?
ni7ewing
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1. January 2011 @ 13:47 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Young_One! I think it was one of the SR, RX, or TX connections, they kind of got beat around a bit while fighting with the FT2N3 point, and I straightened them out

Just finished my first successful read!

boo-yah!

Thanks man

I'm a little nervous about installing xell as the .pdf seems to make things a bit more difficult than I think it sould be, will this work with ANY verson of xell?

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 1. January 2011 @ 14:05

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1. January 2011 @ 15:03 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Excellent news. Just for the heck it, make 4 reads and the compare them with THIS. Then go to xbins and grab the latest xbr8955a for your motherboard (xenon is what I think you have) I believe thats the last xbr. you will need the smc from the cygnos360 website. Then let me know when you have all those files.

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 1. January 2011 @ 17:37

ni7ewing
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1. January 2011 @ 21:59 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Alright, I got

XBR_Xenon_8955_3
NAND Compare

I downloaded: Cygnos360 V2 SMC Collection.zip from megaupload

and

XeXLoader 0.26 - ISO
MAME360

as a little extra.
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1. January 2011 @ 23:49 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Alright, as long as your reads match you can go to the extract sections tab and then extract the Kv and the config files from one of the reads. Then go to the Program files tab load the xbr image. Method should default to 'program flash'. In the Options add the smc version that correspond to your motherboard, then the SMC config that you dumped earlier, and also that KV and the hit the program button. When it tells you that its completed successfully then you should have dash 8955 running on your 360. Remove the usb. You should grab a camera to get your fuse sets by starting your 360 with the eject button. Let me know if that worked out for ya.
ni7ewing
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2. January 2011 @ 00:16 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
So I have four reads dump.bin, orig.bin, orig_backup_1.bin, and orig_backup_2.bin.

When I compare dump.bin with any other (orig.bin, orig_backup_1.bin, and orig_backup_2.bin) I get 11non-matching blocks

When I compare any combination of the dump.bin, orig_backup_1.bin and orig_backup_2.bin I get 0non-matching blocks

So it looks to me like orig.bin is not a great read.

What should I do?

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 2. January 2011 @ 00:25

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2. January 2011 @ 00:24 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
My suggestion is to keep reading until you get identical reads before u proceed. If I'm not mistaken there should be a reconstruction option in that tool too. But I would prefer you try and get some identical dumps. The reconstruction should be your last resort.
ni7ewing
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2. January 2011 @ 00:26 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by young_one:
My suggestion is to keep reading until you get identical reads before u proceed. If I'm not mistaken there should be a reconstruction option in that tool too. But I would prefer you try and get some identical dumps. The reconstruction should be your last resort.
Sorry man, I tried to rewrite that last post to give more detail and you posted while I was editing ha ha ha.

See previous post
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2. January 2011 @ 00:32 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Well go for it. You can do another dump if you feel like it. Those 3 matching dumps are good enough.
ni7ewing
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2. January 2011 @ 00:34 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Should I delete the orig.bin forever?
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2. January 2011 @ 00:41 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Sure can. If it doesn't match you won't need it.
ni7ewing
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2. January 2011 @ 21:03 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
hmmm, I got three red lights.
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2. January 2011 @ 21:33 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
3 red lights (usually overheating) is never good. I have a jtag xenon with 3 red lights and it's been in the attic after a couple of attempts to revive it. After you get the red lights, hold the sync while pressing the eject button 4 times to get the secondary code. 4 lights = 0, 3 li = 3, 2 li = 2, 1 li = 1.
ni7ewing
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2. January 2011 @ 21:40 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
4flashing, 4flashing, 4flashing, 1 flashing light in the upper left corner.

In my search, secondary lights like that mean power supply

I have three different plugs on the go

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 2. January 2011 @ 21:43

ni7ewing
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2. January 2011 @ 22:02 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I just found another box in the basement that my friend thought was a RRoD.

It's not, AND it's a 2.0.6717.0

It's also an opus/falcon with HDMI!

for a guy who just wasted three months ruining a xenon, I'm surprisingly excited about this find.

Should I rip the CYGNOS off the XENON and slap it onto the opus/falcon and start all over?
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2. January 2011 @ 22:11 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
That is a negative my friend. Once that's attached to a board, removing it can damage the quick solder pads. I'm saying that because I tried removing one and it didn't go so well. You can try it but be extra careful. I just looked up the error 0001 and it said a power problem. best of luck to ya man. I tried to get u going.
ni7ewing
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2. January 2011 @ 22:20 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Arew you suggesting I try the RRoD repair firstly?
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2. January 2011 @ 22:35 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I'm not familiar with fixing that code. If I were you I would do some more research on the error code and then do the LPT NAND dump on the working xbox. I wouldn't give up on the other box because you've invested so much time and $ in it. That should be your side project to get that going again. I'm off till tomorrow.
vick79
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3. January 2011 @ 02:18 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The only time I came up with that problem, is when I tried to read the nand without the xbox plugged in.
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ni7ewing
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3. January 2011 @ 23:57 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Well I tried the RRoD repair on that mobo that I've been working on for three months and it was no luck. I know the repair works because I've used it to fix other RRoDs

So I started the soldering for the lpt port on the Falcon I found in the basement. I used this diagram: http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy46/ericrihm/SPI__JTAG_diagram_zephyr-falcon-opu.png

Everything seemed to be going well, the solders were easy to do and nice and clean. sadly however, I can only find two resistors.

Which leads me to the following questions..

My wires to the lpt are 7inches, I used a 4inch for the jumper J2D2.4 - J2D2.7. Does length on this one matter?

And, does the diode have to be on DB1F1 or can I put it on J2D2.1 (backwards)?

My plan from there is to use the CoolShrimp tool. Should that be ok?
 
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