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LiteOn Open Tray out of nowhere
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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2. August 2010 @ 11:51 |
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I have a LiteOn 74850c. My first mistake was that I flashed it without unplugging the laser from the drive. That laser worked occasionally for a day and then degraded. I then replaced the laser and the drive was working fine however:
Last night I was playing games on my 360 and ripping audio CDs fine. This morning I turn it on and all I get is open tray. The 360 hasn't moved since. Is the laser fried again or is it a drive problem? I have spare lasers but this is my last one!
Edit: I fixed it. The worm gear that moves the laser back and forth moved too far and the laser got stuck in the far end of the drive.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 2. August 2010 @ 12:23
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AssKlown
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2. August 2010 @ 18:35 |
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I just had my 7 series drive flashed about 3 weeks ago... all was fine until today.. threw in a game, and got the open tray message... tried another game, same deal.. put in an original, SAME DEAL!... wtf... I could hear the drive spin up for just about 2-3 seconds, then slow down.. then spin up & repeat... it got sooo bad that when I tried to eject the game, the center light would flash repeatidly and do nothing... so I couldn't get my game out!
After numerous reboots, the drive finally ejected, I attempted 1 more time, put the game in, and it was recognized somewhat quickly.. then I tried to copy to hard drive.. first time it made it to 6% then gave me an unreadable disc error... drive was doing same as before, spinning up, slowing down... I tried 1 more time, and it started off doing the same spin/slowdown until it got to about 5%, then I could hear the drive spin up as normal, and it continued all the way and completed the install.... After farting around with it for about an hour, I wasn't much in the mood to play anything anymore... so I'll report back if it keeps doing it..
Any thoughts on what could have caused this problem? I system is about 1 year old, is not used heavily... It really sounds like a drive problem, but how could a drive so new be going bad already?
I don't think media has anything to do with it, since it failed reading a original disc as well...
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Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
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2. August 2010 @ 21:30 |
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why would you unplug the laser to flash? You're not flashing a laser, but the pcb board. Open tray is usually a dirty or weak laser. Either clean the laser first. If that does work replace or adjust the POT
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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2. August 2010 @ 22:20 |
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Originally posted by Modking30:
why would you unplug the laser to flash? You're not flashing a laser, but the pcb board. Open tray is usually a dirty or weak laser. Either clean the laser first. If that does work replace or adjust the POT
For some reason, LiteOn drive flashing with the laser plugged in kills the laser. There is no known cause but this is the solution to preventing it. Adjusting POT or cleaning the laser doesn't work in this case and the laser will need to be replaced.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=liteon+op...7efa91857cb74f0
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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2. August 2010 @ 22:23 |
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Originally posted by AssKlown:
I just had my 7 series drive flashed about 3 weeks ago... all was fine until today.. threw in a game, and got the open tray message... tried another game, same deal.. put in an original, SAME DEAL!... wtf... I could hear the drive spin up for just about 2-3 seconds, then slow down.. then spin up & repeat... it got sooo bad that when I tried to eject the game, the center light would flash repeatidly and do nothing... so I couldn't get my game out!
After numerous reboots, the drive finally ejected, I attempted 1 more time, put the game in, and it was recognized somewhat quickly.. then I tried to copy to hard drive.. first time it made it to 6% then gave me an unreadable disc error... drive was doing same as before, spinning up, slowing down... I tried 1 more time, and it started off doing the same spin/slowdown until it got to about 5%, then I could hear the drive spin up as normal, and it continued all the way and completed the install.... After farting around with it for about an hour, I wasn't much in the mood to play anything anymore... so I'll report back if it keeps doing it..
Any thoughts on what could have caused this problem? I system is about 1 year old, is not used heavily... It really sounds like a drive problem, but how could a drive so new be going bad already?
I don't think media has anything to do with it, since it failed reading a original disc as well...
Make sure the laser hasn't gone off track and is moving smoothly. In my case, there was too much grease on it. I cleaned it off and it's working fine. If that doesn't work, you could try to adjust the POT or clean the laser but generally the drive will need a new laser. I used a laser from a BenQ drive and it worked fine.
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Senior Member
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2. August 2010 @ 22:42 |
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Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by AssKlown:
I just had my 7 series drive flashed about 3 weeks ago... all was fine until today.. threw in a game, and got the open tray message... tried another game, same deal.. put in an original, SAME DEAL!... wtf... I could hear the drive spin up for just about 2-3 seconds, then slow down.. then spin up & repeat... it got sooo bad that when I tried to eject the game, the center light would flash repeatidly and do nothing... so I couldn't get my game out!
After numerous reboots, the drive finally ejected, I attempted 1 more time, put the game in, and it was recognized somewhat quickly.. then I tried to copy to hard drive.. first time it made it to 6% then gave me an unreadable disc error... drive was doing same as before, spinning up, slowing down... I tried 1 more time, and it started off doing the same spin/slowdown until it got to about 5%, then I could hear the drive spin up as normal, and it continued all the way and completed the install.... After farting around with it for about an hour, I wasn't much in the mood to play anything anymore... so I'll report back if it keeps doing it..
Any thoughts on what could have caused this problem? I system is about 1 year old, is not used heavily... It really sounds like a drive problem, but how could a drive so new be going bad already?
I don't think media has anything to do with it, since it failed reading a original disc as well...
Make sure the laser hasn't gone off track and is moving smoothly. In my case, there was too much grease on it. I cleaned it off and it's working fine. If that doesn't work, you could try to adjust the POT or clean the laser but generally the drive will need a new laser. I used a laser from a BenQ drive and it worked fine.
Apparently the laser goes undergoes more duress during flashing (liteons only, from what I know) for whatever reason. My Liteon is still going strong...I pulled the ribbon cable since this was first theorized about a year and a half ago...still reads as great as the day I first got the box. There are countless threads on other boards that have discussed this...be glad to link if anyone would like to read further.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
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Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
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3. August 2010 @ 07:31 |
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Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
why would you unplug the laser to flash? You're not flashing a laser, but the pcb board. Open tray is usually a dirty or weak laser. Either clean the laser first. If that does work replace or adjust the POT
For some reason, LiteOn drive flashing with the laser plugged in kills the laser. There is no known cause but this is the solution to preventing it. Adjusting POT or cleaning the laser doesn't work in this case and the laser will need to be replaced.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=liteon+op...7efa91857cb74f0
No it doesn't. The problem is noobies don't do a full dump and then the laser burns out because they used the dummy.bin method which does NOT dump the laser calibration resulting in lasers burning out.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. August 2010 @ 07:32
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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3. August 2010 @ 07:33 |
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Originally posted by Modking30:
Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
why would you unplug the laser to flash? You're not flashing a laser, but the pcb board. Open tray is usually a dirty or weak laser. Either clean the laser first. If that does work replace or adjust the POT
For some reason, LiteOn drive flashing with the laser plugged in kills the laser. There is no known cause but this is the solution to preventing it. Adjusting POT or cleaning the laser doesn't work in this case and the laser will need to be replaced.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=liteon+op...7efa91857cb74f0
No it doesn't. The problem is noobies don't do a full dump and then the laser burns out because they used the dummy.bin method which does NOT dump the laser calibration resulting in lasers burning out.
So is there anything wrong with unplugging the ribbon cable?
Where does your info come from? Can you link people here.
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Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
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3. August 2010 @ 07:36 |
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Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
why would you unplug the laser to flash? You're not flashing a laser, but the pcb board. Open tray is usually a dirty or weak laser. Either clean the laser first. If that does work replace or adjust the POT
For some reason, LiteOn drive flashing with the laser plugged in kills the laser. There is no known cause but this is the solution to preventing it. Adjusting POT or cleaning the laser doesn't work in this case and the laser will need to be replaced.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=liteon+op...7efa91857cb74f0
No it doesn't. The problem is noobies don't do a full dump and then the laser burns out because they used the dummy.bin method which does NOT dump the laser calibration resulting in lasers burning out.
So is there anything wrong with unplugging the ribbon cable?
Where does your info come from? Can you link people here.
You don't know what a full dump is? I've dumped and flashed 100's on liteons all with the full dump method and never unplugged the ribbon cable. I assume you're not cutting traces and soldering. This is the only method you should use to flash liteons
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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3. August 2010 @ 07:41 |
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Originally posted by Modking30:
Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
why would you unplug the laser to flash? You're not flashing a laser, but the pcb board. Open tray is usually a dirty or weak laser. Either clean the laser first. If that does work replace or adjust the POT
For some reason, LiteOn drive flashing with the laser plugged in kills the laser. There is no known cause but this is the solution to preventing it. Adjusting POT or cleaning the laser doesn't work in this case and the laser will need to be replaced.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=liteon+op...7efa91857cb74f0
No it doesn't. The problem is noobies don't do a full dump and then the laser burns out because they used the dummy.bin method which does NOT dump the laser calibration resulting in lasers burning out.
So is there anything wrong with unplugging the ribbon cable?
Where does your info come from? Can you link people here.
You don't know what a full dump is? I've dumped and flashed 100's on liteons all with the full dump method and never unplugged the ribbon cable. I assume you're not cutting traces and soldering. This is the only method you should use to flash liteons
I've flashed 4 LiteOns so far. 2 8x and 2 7x drives. I've had problems with one of them. I don't think it has anything to do with laser calibration data because then it would be present on all drives. Also if laser calibration data was lost, it would not be fixed with a new laser since flashing doesn't affect anything on the laser as you said earlier.
I don't flash the 9x drives and I don't intend to. I'm not flashing for a living, I'm just flashing for friends and family that have drives except Lite On 8x v2 and 9x and Hitachis.
And yes, I do know what a full dump is. It's useless though. Until somebody shows me that a dead drive can be retrieved by restoring the full dump, I won't believe it. That seems false anyways. Laser calibration wouldn't be fixed with a new laser, it'd need a new drive.
Edit: When doing a full dump and restoring it with iXtreme, aren't you using dummy.bin just to retrieve the key for iXtreme?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. August 2010 @ 07:43
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Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
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3. August 2010 @ 15:57 |
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Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by Modking30:
why would you unplug the laser to flash? You're not flashing a laser, but the pcb board. Open tray is usually a dirty or weak laser. Either clean the laser first. If that does work replace or adjust the POT
For some reason, LiteOn drive flashing with the laser plugged in kills the laser. There is no known cause but this is the solution to preventing it. Adjusting POT or cleaning the laser doesn't work in this case and the laser will need to be replaced.
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=liteon+op...7efa91857cb74f0
No it doesn't. The problem is noobies don't do a full dump and then the laser burns out because they used the dummy.bin method which does NOT dump the laser calibration resulting in lasers burning out.
So is there anything wrong with unplugging the ribbon cable?
Where does your info come from? Can you link people here.
You don't know what a full dump is? I've dumped and flashed 100's on liteons all with the full dump method and never unplugged the ribbon cable. I assume you're not cutting traces and soldering. This is the only method you should use to flash liteons
I've flashed 4 LiteOns so far. 2 8x and 2 7x drives. I've had problems with one of them. I don't think it has anything to do with laser calibration data because then it would be present on all drives. Also if laser calibration data was lost, it would not be fixed with a new laser since flashing doesn't affect anything on the laser as you said earlier.
I don't flash the 9x drives and I don't intend to. I'm not flashing for a living, I'm just flashing for friends and family that have drives except Lite On 8x v2 and 9x and Hitachis.
And yes, I do know what a full dump is. It's useless though. Until somebody shows me that a dead drive can be retrieved by restoring the full dump, I won't believe it. That seems false anyways. Laser calibration wouldn't be fixed with a new laser, it'd need a new drive.
Edit: When doing a full dump and restoring it with iXtreme, aren't you using dummy.bin just to retrieve the key for iXtreme?
What are you talking about? dummy.bin is NOT a full dump. A full dump requires you use a probe II or vampire, cut the traces and then dump the firmware. You cannot use the 707 pin hole method. And yes, you will lose the laser calibration without this method. Yes, you can install a new laser and it will work for a while but die fast.
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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3. August 2010 @ 23:13 |
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I know dummy.bin isn't the full dump but I've still had my drive running for close to 5 months without any problems on a new laser. I don't flash enough to get the probe and if unplugging the laser works, then I'll stick with it.
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