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Really Stubborn Board with RROD...
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Senior Member
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21. January 2010 @ 09:19 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I am experienced in computer/electronics repair but have never soldered a 360 board. I have managed to fix all the RROD 360s I've ever gotten using all the various fixes.

I have one 360 board that I bought on ebay from a person that had attempted the X-clamp fix. I haven't been able to repair it for the last month (I won't let it beat me! :D)...sporadically taking it apart and checking to see if I missed something. I held on to it because as a hobby it's really nice to be challenged and gain experience working on these consoles.

Now, for the actual question: For the first time I checked all the traces and made sure they were good. I used a 10x magnifying loupe as I suspected I would find a bad trace or some damaged capacitors or diodes that might be causing the problem. Sure enough, I found 2 caps that appear to be blown (at least one is, the other may just be loose) under the GPU and one under the CPU.

I just wanted to know if anyone had ever tried to replace these to repair an RROD. I have the time to work on it but wanted to get a pro's advice on whether they've fixed an RROD by replacing caps.

I believe the error code on this one is 0003, 3 red lights...trips red light on AC adapter when turned on...no fans, black screen...etc.

The caps are pretty tiny but I believe I have a soldering tip small enough to do the trick.

Any tips for me or are these boards usually toast when this happens?

Thanks everyone. Very much appreciated.

-MG
2Supra4U
Junior Member
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21. January 2010 @ 10:31 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hello,

I've never done that before, but if you think that may be the issue and you can easily replace it. trying it wouldn't hurt.

However I feel you pain as I have a stubborn RROD as well...that had clamps replaced b4.

first time I redid it it worked perfectly......until i was putting in the front switch board on and it slid from vertical and hit the counter laying flat (wasn't much but I knew right away I may have knocjed what I had just done loose or muck it up.....

now every time i try to reflow by over heating...it does not really get hot at all....its weird. i am able to touch it after its been overheating for 30min.

normally....you will nto be able to touch for more than 2 or 3 sec b4 u feel the burn hard


havent managed to get ti to run hot gain...going ot try to clana nd replace once more then tossign the fucker

only paid 25$ for it anyways...
Member
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21. January 2010 @ 18:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
to : 2Supra4U

one time i had run out of the metal washers suggested in the ultimate rrod tut so i used some extra wave lock washers same thickness did the rest of the fix and when i turned it on the power block went off as soon as power went to board and fan stopped right after spinning...

got online researched and found old post in a forum (dont remember which one) and he said it sounded like the board had a short or it was grounding out so i checked my screws to make sure i didnt mix up my nylon and metal washers and ended up just loosening the bolts becasued they seemd way to tight even thought they werent compressed the whole way!

after lossening a few screw and relieveing pressure in the right areas on both GPU and CPU heatsink it turned on ...

not sure if any of this info will help but it seems like your symptoms are the same as mine.

and i also feel your pain with the Stubborn RROD had two so far good luck
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Senior Member
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21. January 2010 @ 21:51 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Co45:
to : 2Supra4U

one time i had run out of the metal washers suggested in the ultimate rrod tut so i used some extra wave lock washers same thickness did the rest of the fix and when i turned it on the power block went off as soon as power went to board and fan stopped right after spinning...

got online researched and found old post in a forum (dont remember which one) and he said it sounded like the board had a short or it was grounding out so i checked my screws to make sure i didnt mix up my nylon and metal washers and ended up just loosening the bolts becasued they seemd way to tight even thought they werent compressed the whole way!

after lossening a few screw and relieveing pressure in the right areas on both GPU and CPU heatsink it turned on ...

not sure if any of this info will help but it seems like your symptoms are the same as mine.

and i also feel your pain with the Stubborn RROD had two so far good luck

Thanks Co45, I'll check to make sure I'm not shorting the board out.

"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
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