Here's my situation- my 360 is modded and I started getting the RROD about 8 months ago. I did a bunch of research and eventually opened it up and replaced all the heat sink paste with Arctic Silver. I was still getting the rrod, so I used a tip from an online video in which I unplug the fan and let the system "overheat" for about a minute. Well, after I did this, my system worked for a couple months. But, I still get the RROD every so often and instead of tearing my whole system down, I open it up, unplug the fan, let it heat up for about a minute, and then it works fine...for another few weeks. Well, is there anything else I can do so I don't have to keep doing that? Sorry for the long read but it's getting annoying having to open my 360 up every month or so.
Originally posted by AkaMrMike: You can try heat gun fix or have someone else reflow the board. Replace x-clamps with bolts and washers, and do 12v fan mod.
if u do a reflow do not use nuts and bolts use the xclamps
I'm confused now. I used Wolley's guide to reflow and refitted my nuts and bolts afterwards. Are you saying I should have gone back to the X Clamp (worked fine 5 months touch wood).
Originally posted by TonyJer: I'm confused now. I used Wolley's guide to reflow and refitted my nuts and bolts afterwards. Are you saying I should have gone back to the X Clamp (worked fine 5 months touch wood).
I would leave it just like it is, considering that the x-clamps are thought to be one of the main causes for rrod. They put stress on the board making it flex and pull cpu/gpu away from board giving you rrod. I don't think you will hear of many people going back to them, I reflowed and replaced xclamps over a year ago, leave my xbox running for 12+ hours regularly and haven't had any problems yet.
Originally posted by TonyJer: I'm confused now. I used Wolley's guide to reflow and refitted my nuts and bolts afterwards. Are you saying I should have gone back to the X Clamp (worked fine 5 months touch wood).
I would leave it just like it is, considering that the x-clamps are thought to be one of the main causes for rrod. They put stress on the board making it flex and pull cpu/gpu away from board giving you rrod. I don't think you will hear of many people going back to them, I reflowed and replaced xclamps over a year ago, leave my xbox running for 12+ hours regularly and haven't had any problems yet.
X clamps are not the problem and that myth was debunked along time ago. There are a lot of different types of electronic components which use some sort of spring-type clamp.
The only thing the x clamp does is sandwich the mobo against the heatsink. The heatsink is the opposing force which allows the mobo to remain perfectly flat.
In order for the x clamp to flex the mobo it would need to push in one direction and pull in another. Which it obviously can't as the x clamp only touches the mobo in one location.
If the heatsink wasn't there then yes, in theory the clamp would cause the board to flex, although that will never actually happen as the x clamp needs the heatsink for the x clamp to be attached to the board. No heatsink = nothing to hold the x clamp in place.
In all actuality it's the bolt/washer method which will cause damage to the mobo as they do cause flexing. Unlike the x clamp, which applies pressure directly under the processor to sandwich it against the heatsink thus allowing the mobo to remain unflexed, the bolts apply pressure around the outside perimeter of the processor, drawing the mobo up to the heatsink.
Pulling the mobo up to the heat sink will cause the mobo to become concaved where the processor sits.
Here's a perfect example. This 360 I got in for repair. You can clearly see the huge gaps between the mobo and the rule on both the left and right side. It's quite clear that the bolt/washer mod has damaged this board.
Many will argue that they've used bolts/washer with great success. I wouldn't disagree with you. Those who do have success spent a bit of time researching how to properly apply the mod without causing damage to the board.
The problem is every body and their brother thinks they can spend $5 for bolts/washers and be able to fix their rrod. They don't know what they're doing and you end up with exactly what I've pictured above.
Plain and simple, the main reason for the vast amount of rrod's is due to an inadequate cooling design in the original 360 combined with the use of lead-free solder. Not the x clamps.
You started off stating that the nuts and bolts cause the MB to flex etc etc and then finish off by saying that the vast majority of RRODs are due to poor cooling and use of lead free solder. Can you reconcile these two statements.
Originally posted by TonyJer: You started off stating that the nuts and bolts cause the MB to flex etc etc and then finish off by saying that the vast majority of RRODs are due to poor cooling and use of lead free solder. Can you reconcile these two statements.
I was addressing two topics. What part is confusing you and I'll elaborate?
The first topic I was addressing the x clamp causing flexing myth. The second I was merely explaining why the 360 suffers from the rrod to start with.
The x clamps are not the problem. The solder is. So after a proper reflow reusing your x clamps is advisable because using bolts/washers improperly could do more harm than good.
But... even after a reflow, the core problem resulting in the rrod is still there; the lead free solder. So it's ALWAYS possible for the rrod to come back. Your simple options to further help with cooling would be to either replace the fan or do a 12v fan mod.
What should be done is have your 360 reballed. That involves having the gpu removed, the lead free solder replaced with leaded solder, and the gpu reinstalled. But that option isn't cost effective for many as most people don't want to spend ~$50 for a reball.
Really it's the improper xclamp replacement that makes the board flex, if you use the llamma xclamp replacement where you drill through the metal case then use washers as spacers (nylon to insulate the board) it doesn't cause any warping at all. Sadly none of the xbox's i've taken apart have used the drill through method.
I use my own xclamp replacement method (similar to llammas) after i do a reflow and i haven't had any problems.
