Hey guys i got an interesting xbox the other day. The drive would not spin up due to dirt jamming the motor (you could tell because you could barely spin the disk with your hand. Anyways i replaced the motor/spindle and then the drive was working but not perfectly. I decided to retrieve the cdkey from the drive to put on another drive just to have a fresh new drive. When i went to retrieve the key the hole for probing (we're talking about the liteon 7 series) the light would not even turn blue. As suggested by other forums i found here i tried the alternate hole still no blue light. I have done many key retrievals before and this is the first to fail. All i would get is serial data is bad. I put the drive back in the xbox and tried to run a game, and it litterally SHOT the game out of the console at a speed that the motor should not have gone and would no longer eject in or out. Anyways i believed that it had broke the eject motor so i tried moveing the PCB board to a brand new liteon drive. This time i just get no response from the drive at all other than the laser turning on.
I then went on to try the old fashioned way of bridging the TX and RX when i did that, now my spear lite was constant blue (Though i know i no longer needed it) And once again all i got was serial data was bad. I also tried maxtors key extractor as well. After this i had given up and was trying to get l-o-eras.exe to get the drive in the right status but to no avail.
In conclusion i believe the only way I'll be able to recover this one is to retrieve the CD-key from the motherboard. I understand that i cannot jtag this console because it is updated above 8##### however many have said that it is possible to retrieve the nand dump with all the keys. If this is possible how would i go about doing it.
Originally posted by iam2weird: Hey guys i got an interesting xbox the other day. The drive would not spin up due to dirt jamming the motor (you could tell because you could barely spin the disk with your hand. Anyways i replaced the motor/spindle and then the drive was working but not perfectly. I decided to retrieve the cdkey from the drive to put on another drive just to have a fresh new drive. When i went to retrieve the key the hole for probing (we're talking about the liteon 7 series) the light would not even turn blue. As suggested by other forums i found here i tried the alternate hole still no blue light. I have done many key retrievals before and this is the first to fail. All i would get is serial data is bad. I put the drive back in the xbox and tried to run a game, and it litterally SHOT the game out of the console at a speed that the motor should not have gone and would no longer eject in or out. Anyways i believed that it had broke the eject motor so i tried moveing the PCB board to a brand new liteon drive. This time i just get no response from the drive at all other than the laser turning on.
I then went on to try the old fashioned way of bridging the TX and RX when i did that, now my spear lite was constant blue (Though i know i no longer needed it) And once again all i got was serial data was bad. I also tried maxtors key extractor as well. After this i had given up and was trying to get l-o-eras.exe to get the drive in the right status but to no avail.
In conclusion i believe the only way I'll be able to recover this one is to retrieve the CD-key from the motherboard. I understand that i cannot jtag this console because it is updated above 8##### however many have said that it is possible to retrieve the nand dump with all the keys. If this is possible how would i go about doing it.
i can just retrive the dvd key from broken liteons just fine, as long as the pcb itself is not shot you are fine. just put it in half tray position manually (i too in the post short circuited the drive motor. just retrived the key by manually putting the tray into positions). drive was shot, no eject possible (except manually)
it took hours trying before i figured out that bad serial was related to me not putting the tray in half open position correctly.
OR.
get a new drive, and just replace the pcb. the pcb holds the drive key, so if you put yours onto the new drive no flashing is needed. this should have worked...
getting it into half tray is the biggest challenge for me (i used a diy probe)
if you are talking about a standart key retriever (a probe) for the liteon 7 series - it works only if the firmware in your flash the same you purchased your xbox in the shop. In your case i would tried the MRA Hack (with cutting traces).
In order to retrieve the information it has to have the stock firmware on it. If the drive already has been flashed with flashed with iXtreme LT firmware then the original option is no longer available. You will need to do the MRA method.
Would anyone be willing to try retreiving my firmware for me if i was to mail it to you? I will just mail the PCB and no need to return it i will be replacing the drive as the drive is bad anyways. Note im not asking for ixtreme i just want my firmware off so i can get this xbox working again.
Managed to recover the drive i bought CK3 pro and probe III and it worked perfect on the MX01 probe slot, put my key on a new drive and now its working perfect.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
