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Tough 360, Freezing, Unreadable Disc Error, 0102
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Member
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18. December 2010 @ 00:09 |
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Hi, I purchased an older xbox 360, its a 2006, most likely a first gen, that had the RROD and error code 0102. Upon applying some pressure to the GPU I was able to fix the rrod problem then proceeded to replace the X-clamps and thermal paste. I've spend many many hours on this one and for some reason refuse to give up. The problem is that the xbox will boot up to dashboard just fine every time, but as soon as I put a game in and it begins to read/load the disc, the drive seems to spin a little too loud (though I am not sure and it could just be common on earlier Gen Hitachis) and it will either give me "this disc is unreadable error'' or it will artifact and freeze, usually during the opening credits of the game, pre main menu and all. Sometime I'll even get the unreadable disc error and have it freeze and even sometimes, when trying a game like NCAA, it will load up to the menus, but as soon as I try and start a match, it will freeze, then RROD on me till it cools off. After that it powers on again and I'm back to the same problem. So far I've replaced the x-clamps, thermal paste, and done an LOW temp oven bake to rid the board of any warps that occured from the heat. I know its most likely not the drive also because I've swapped the original Hitachi with a BenQ and spoofed it to read as the Hitachi. Yet again, errors are present and indentical with both drives.
Has anyone had this problem before and had a solid fix for it?
I'm thinking about doing a full oven reflow with the protective covering over the necessary components and am also debating purchasing a uni-clamp and some better foam pads for the ram chips, but I would like some opinions before I try these.
Thanks in advance!
"I see no god up here"
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peluynati
Senior Member
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18. December 2010 @ 00:27 |
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you are still having issues with the GPU, try to adjust the tension on your xclamps, also it would not hurt to do a more aggressive re flow.
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Member
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18. December 2010 @ 02:15 |
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I've done quite a few things to adjust pressure on the GPU, but I'll tweak with it a little more just to make sure. I think a higher temp reflow would be my best bet for now cause it seems like I've tried all other possible fixes.
Thanks for the input!
Ok so, I tightened the GPU screws even tighter and got some interesting results. I can now actually load and play NCAA 09 without any freeze or RROD. I didn't have much time to test but it ran fine for 20 mins when before it couldnt even load a match without RROD happening. After seeing that work, I tried to run Forza 2, which is pretty scratched up and got the "this disc is unreadable error" before the main menu even loaded. The game works perfectly in 2010 Jasper Elite with Lite-On drive, but in this one it doesn't work at all, mostly the same for Halo 3 ODST: Game menu loads, but when i start a match, I get the unreadable error again. Halo Reach still freezes in the opening credit/cutscene thing. I wonder if this has to do with GPU problems still or the age of the drive/system. The 2007 BenQ drive seems to act even worse then the standard 2006 hitachi. So.... yeah, interesting. Ok, more intense reflow is next!
"I see no god up here"
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 18. December 2010 @ 03:28
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peluynati
Senior Member
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18. December 2010 @ 07:29 |
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yeah when the game starts to load it puts a lot more strain on the GPU, causing your problem, you are going to need a better reflow.
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Senior Member
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18. December 2010 @ 18:23 |
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I'd advise against tightening the x-clamp down real hard. It's possible you can fracture the solder worse and kill the xbox permanently, unless the GPU is entirely reballed (which must be done professionally and not with home tools).
The oven bake is good for removing warping but the likely reason the RRoD came back is because it wasn't hot enough to melt the solder back together. However if you go too much hotter in the oven you have to do a lot of prep work with insulation so you don't burst caps (because the caps burst before the solder melts). You also have to make sure you have your timing down correctly on the high temp method because you definitely don't want to go too long and potentially melt the solder out and cause a short.
Check out the method I do with a heatgun in my signature, it's very reliable with 0102 360s.
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Member
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18. December 2010 @ 18:34 |
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Thanks w00ly, I've been a little scared to do the oven method cause of my inexperience with full oven reflows, but I can acquire a heat gun and try doing it your way.
"I see no god up here"
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Member
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20. December 2010 @ 22:14 |
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w00ly, I tried you heat gun method and followed it as closely as possible, even had the same heatgun, but when I put everything back together I got it freezing right at the logo before it even loads dashboard. That or no video.
Any ideas?
"I see no god up here"
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Senior Member
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21. December 2010 @ 02:05 |
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first make sure you're using a good silver-based thermal paste. It's probably your x-clamp fix though, make sure you have exactly 3mm of space underneath and that you're not torquing the screws down real hard.
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Member
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23. December 2010 @ 19:46 |
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ok, so I think the reflow did its job just fine even though the system didnt necessarily need it as it turns out. I realized that the laser is going out on the old hitachi drive so I'm gonna need to buy a new one off amazon and replace it. Other then that, the xbox is fine. thanks for all the replies
"I see no god up here"
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