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Which way to flash 74850c?
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mdjd
Junior Member
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19. April 2010 @ 15:55 |
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I gave up for a while after months of not being able to extract the key from my Lite-On 74850c. I'd like to finally get it over with, but I'm wondering what would be the best way now that their are other methods...
I've done some research, but I'm still a little confused with some of the new methods.
What is the difference between the LT Clip, LT Switch, and LT Switch 2? I read something about having to use the probe or Switch 2 with the LT Clip or something like that. Can anyone clearly explain each method or provide a link? I wasn't able to find too much...
I'm just trying to figure out what would be the best and easiest method to flash the 74850c. Do they all require a probe? The LT clip says no soldering, but how do you connect it to the traces then? Thanks in advance for any help.
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AfterDawn Addict
2 product reviews
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19. April 2010 @ 16:02 |
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The LT Clip, LT Switch, and LT Switch 2 are all methods in dumping full LiteOn firmware.
Every single method to dump FULL LiteOn firmware will require cutting traces. The LT Clip is a solderless method, you just have to repair your traces you cut when finished. The LT Switch and LT Switch 2 will require soldering to some points. If you aren't experienced in soldering, I wouldn't go that route.
You can use a trace repair pen (conductive glue) to repair your traces once complete. You can pick these up at Radio Shack or on Ebay. Good solution if you aren't handy at soldering.
There is also the Xtractor Pro + Vampire or the CK3 + Probe2. That will allow you to dump the full LiteOn Firmware. Still requires cuts. tutorial for Xtractor + Vampire
And finally, you can also solder a 22 ohm resistor to the traces along with a switch. You'll need to google around for that tutorial. Still requires cuts.
All these tutorials are based on the MRA method.
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mdjd
Junior Member
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19. April 2010 @ 16:40 |
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I have some soldering experience, just not much...is it really that hard? Considering all of the methods you listed what do you think would be the best one, not considering my little soldering experience? Are there certain benefits to each one?
I just found something about the 360 Litekey too. Any good? Says something about being easier to do updates...
Will I still need the probe for the clip, switch, and litekey?
Also, would I need the CK3 or could I just use the 360 for power? I assume I have to use the xtractor pro if using the vampire because the vampire plugs into that right?
Lastly, if vampire method is best, would it be better to use the rebuild board and solder the traces in if I can accomplish the soldering in some way?
Thanks again.
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AfterDawn Addict
2 product reviews
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19. April 2010 @ 16:49 |
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Originally posted by mdjd:
I have some soldering experience, just not much...is it really that hard? Considering all of the methods you listed what do you think would be the best one, not considering my little soldering experience? Are there certain benefits to each one?
I just found something about the 360 Litekey too. Any good? Says something about being easier to do updates...
Will I still need the probe for the clip, switch, and litekey?
Also, would I need the CK3 or could I just use the 360 for power? I assume I have to use the xtractor pro if using the vampire because the vampire plugs into that right?
Lastly, if vampire method is best, would it be better to use the rebuild board and solder the traces in if I can accomplish the soldering in some way?
Thanks again.
Basically everything is a 1 time use per drive. Once you have the firmware, you don't need any of it anymore. The LT switches and clips will give you read/write mode but you can essentially do the same with the erase command through JF.
Personally, I have the Xtractor + Vampire. I make the 2 cuts, probe the 2 points, read firmware twice, and then repair with a trace repair pen.
If you use the Vampire or Probe2, you must have the connectivity kit (xtractor pro or CK3 pro) that goes along with it.
You don't have to use the rebuild board, it just takes up more time.
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mdjd
Junior Member
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27. April 2010 @ 17:40 |
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Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by mdjd:
I have some soldering experience, just not much...is it really that hard? Considering all of the methods you listed what do you think would be the best one, not considering my little soldering experience? Are there certain benefits to each one?
I just found something about the 360 Litekey too. Any good? Says something about being easier to do updates...
Will I still need the probe for the clip, switch, and litekey?
Also, would I need the CK3 or could I just use the 360 for power? I assume I have to use the xtractor pro if using the vampire because the vampire plugs into that right?
Lastly, if vampire method is best, would it be better to use the rebuild board and solder the traces in if I can accomplish the soldering in some way?
Thanks again.
Basically everything is a 1 time use per drive. Once you have the firmware, you don't need any of it anymore. The LT switches and clips will give you read/write mode but you can essentially do the same with the erase command through JF.
Personally, I have the Xtractor + Vampire. I make the 2 cuts, probe the 2 points, read firmware twice, and then repair with a trace repair pen.
If you use the Vampire or Probe2, you must have the connectivity kit (xtractor pro or CK3 pro) that goes along with it.
You don't have to use the rebuild board, it just takes up more time.
Hey, going to get the Xtractor + Vampire...any particular place I should get it?
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AfterDawn Addict
2 product reviews
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27. April 2010 @ 17:50 |
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Originally posted by mdjd:
Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by mdjd:
I have some soldering experience, just not much...is it really that hard? Considering all of the methods you listed what do you think would be the best one, not considering my little soldering experience? Are there certain benefits to each one?
I just found something about the 360 Litekey too. Any good? Says something about being easier to do updates...
Will I still need the probe for the clip, switch, and litekey?
Also, would I need the CK3 or could I just use the 360 for power? I assume I have to use the xtractor pro if using the vampire because the vampire plugs into that right?
Lastly, if vampire method is best, would it be better to use the rebuild board and solder the traces in if I can accomplish the soldering in some way?
Thanks again.
Basically everything is a 1 time use per drive. Once you have the firmware, you don't need any of it anymore. The LT switches and clips will give you read/write mode but you can essentially do the same with the erase command through JF.
Personally, I have the Xtractor + Vampire. I make the 2 cuts, probe the 2 points, read firmware twice, and then repair with a trace repair pen.
If you use the Vampire or Probe2, you must have the connectivity kit (xtractor pro or CK3 pro) that goes along with it.
You don't have to use the rebuild board, it just takes up more time.
Hey, going to get the Xtractor + Vampire...any particular place I should get it?
vgcrepairs.com
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Member
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28. April 2010 @ 12:45 |
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For a liteon 7 series I thought you only needed a ck3 + probe.
No need to cut traces.
Thats all I used when I did mine a year ago.
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mdjd
Junior Member
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28. April 2010 @ 16:25 |
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Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by mdjd:
Originally posted by leerage:
Originally posted by mdjd:
I have some soldering experience, just not much...is it really that hard? Considering all of the methods you listed what do you think would be the best one, not considering my little soldering experience? Are there certain benefits to each one?
I just found something about the 360 Litekey too. Any good? Says something about being easier to do updates...
Will I still need the probe for the clip, switch, and litekey?
Also, would I need the CK3 or could I just use the 360 for power? I assume I have to use the xtractor pro if using the vampire because the vampire plugs into that right?
Lastly, if vampire method is best, would it be better to use the rebuild board and solder the traces in if I can accomplish the soldering in some way?
Thanks again.
Basically everything is a 1 time use per drive. Once you have the firmware, you don't need any of it anymore. The LT switches and clips will give you read/write mode but you can essentially do the same with the erase command through JF.
Personally, I have the Xtractor + Vampire. I make the 2 cuts, probe the 2 points, read firmware twice, and then repair with a trace repair pen.
If you use the Vampire or Probe2, you must have the connectivity kit (xtractor pro or CK3 pro) that goes along with it.
You don't have to use the rebuild board, it just takes up more time.
Hey, going to get the Xtractor + Vampire...any particular place I should get it?
vgcrepairs.com
Okay, now I'm kinda back to the drawing board again...
As I was about to order at vgc I was talking to the guy there and he said that the new Xtractor Pro v2.3 doesn't require the vampire; it would just be the pro2.3 plus the rebuild board(~$50) I guess?.. Also, he mentioned the Litekey doesn't require any other tools except rebuild board or just wires and it's only $10. Then there is the Xtractor Pro v1.2 + Vampire Kit (~$50).
So is it worth trying the Litekey since it's only $10 + rebuild board? Or should I just play it safe and go with the Xtractor setup even though it's a bit more pricy? Then that raises the question of V1.2 or V2.3 with Xtractor...
Also, I couldn't find much about the LT Clip. Is it not for sale yet?
Just for my full understanding of the methods...
-LT Clip - used with Probe 2 or LT Switch2 use Xbox360 for power. says it doesn't require any soldering. Says it's the absolute easiest way...
-LT Switch 1/2 - requires soldering to board. No probe. Can I use 360 for power instead of CK3 pro?
-Vampire and Probe 2 must have additional device...can't use 360 for power. I can use trace repair instead of soldering rebuild board.
Decisions, decisions....
Thank you for all the help.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. April 2010 @ 17:15
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