I have a weird problem. My xbox360 would not power up unless the top half of the case is completely off or very loose. Has anyone experienced this problem before? It sounds to me that the metal part of the case is shorting something but what could it be? The only thing i thought it would touch is the top of the CPU heatsink. I'm thinking of removing the metal internal lining of the top case to give more room but i know once i tighten the screws it wont work again. I'm really baffled.
This happened straight after i done the x-clamp fix so it is obviously something that i done. I did not screw through the metal case, just the motherboard. Its strange because its completely dead when the case is on, not even the eject button or controller/s can turn it on. As soon as i take off the case, it works flawlessly.
sounds like the pressure of the screws is forcing the bottom of the mobo to make contact with the shell. How many washers did you use and what type of bolts?
Agreed ..... did you use any nylon washers under the screw head in your repair? as this may stop any conductivity between the mobo/screw/casing in turn not shorting out the 360.
Originally posted by Toaster68: Agreed ..... did you use any nylon washers under the screw head in your repair? as this may stop any conductivity between the mobo/screw/casing in turn not shorting out the 360.
hi,
thanks for that. I used 1 spring washer and 1 nylon washer. Maybe i should have used more?
Originally posted by Toaster68: Agreed ..... did you use any nylon washers under the screw head in your repair? as this may stop any conductivity between the mobo/screw/casing in turn not shorting out the 360.
hi,
thanks for that. I used 1 spring washer and 1 nylon washer. Maybe i should have used more?
tbh i'd use less lol
i don't use a spring washer anymore, they used to shred the nylon washer on removal and also damage the mobo before they invented nylon lol. i just put 1 nylon washer under a pan head screw, then the mobo then a nylon washer then steel then heatsink. this seems to be ok so far :) none of the screws impact on the ally heatsink so i don't see an issue with this type of method.
Originally posted by Toaster68: Agreed ..... did you use any nylon washers under the screw head in your repair? as this may stop any conductivity between the mobo/screw/casing in turn not shorting out the 360.
hi,
thanks for that. I used 1 spring washer and 1 nylon washer. Maybe i should have used more?
tbh i'd use less lol
i don't use a spring washer anymore, they used to shred the nylon washer on removal and also damage the mobo before they invented nylon lol. i just put 1 nylon washer under a pan head screw, then the mobo then a nylon washer then steel then heatsink. this seems to be ok so far :) none of the screws impact on the ally heatsink so i don't see an issue with this type of method.
So there's really no point in dissassemling it and adding an extra washer? btw I'm using a short m5 round head screw. Cant remember the length but it came as a kit with the washers.
Originally posted by miketrev: Remove the spring washer, make sure you have two 1mm washers between motherboard & processor and at least one on the underside.
Thanks for your reply.
This doesnt make sense because even without the spring washer, i still have a 1mm nylon washer between the mb and the case. I have 2 washers between the mb and the heatsink. I also used the m5 screws with the rounded top so that provides an extra 3mm of seperation between the motherboard and the case. This is more then what it was before i did the x-clamp fix.
I just tried putting one of the small black screws back on ( i didnt have them on to start with) and it worked! but then when i put the case back together again, it stopped working. Would it be worth putting the small screws on to the end of the m5 screws inside the case to get that extra seperation? I'm just worried that the mortherboard would be sitting to high up causing the top case to exert to much downward pressure on the heatsinks which in turn can bend the motherboard.
I had a similar problem. When I inserted the 6 longer screws it would put too much pressure on the board and it wouldn't come on or just give me two red lights. I decided not to put those in and just close it up. The board is secured to the metal frame anyway. Started working without the screws.
This happened to me after i reflowed an xbox about 3 months ago. I used the llamma xclamp replacement (as i always do) after the reflow and everything was working flawlessly. I reassembled the xbox like normal and it instantly tripped the power supply. So i had to reset the power supply. I kept trying to get the power connector into the xbox without tripping the power supply but every time i would insert it, the god damn thing would trip and turn red. So i finally took the xbox apart and noticed that the rear middle screw was the one that was causing the issue. I just reassembled the xbox with 5 long screws and everything was back to normal.
On the xenons i push down on the standoffs so the board sits flat. I think i must have pushed that standoff too far down so when i was tightening up the case screws it was flexing the board in that spot.