|
Western Digital introduces 2.5 inch solid state drives
|
|
The following comments relate to this news article:
article published on 3 March, 2010
Today Western Digital announced a line of solid state 2.5 inch SATA hard drives called SiliconEdge Blue. The new drives include 64GB, 128GB & 256GB models.
The drives are intended to "accelerate SSD technology adoption by OEMs, technology enthusiasts, gamers and road warriors," said Michael Hajeck, senior vice president and general manager of WD's solid state storage business unit.
... [ read the full article ]
Please read the original article before posting your comments.
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
4. March 2010 @ 20:48 |
Link to this message
|
Quote:
Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
SDD is doing all that as CD and DVD recorders as BR recorders(just started to use mine I love it) and LCD(just got a 24inch HD WS LCD monitor as well LOL).
Yep, it all basically goes in the same way.
BTW, I haven't had the need to get a BR recorder yet, but it's on the list now that I have a BR player. It also took me awhile to go LCD monitors, got a 19" back in 02, but in 07/08 I picked up 2-22" HDMI LCD monitors and have never been happier about a purchase!
Back on topic (LOL), yah, USB3 is definitely going to make Flash a heavy hitter. SATA is good except for the weak/clunky connector they designed for it. I mean...what's with that? Those things were breaking all over the place, but the protocol at least is good and works reliably.
I'm satisfied with my SATAII drives (3 x 500G WD Caviars) for at least the next few years and most of my machine is fairly new stuff, so I probably won't be making any new jumps in tech for awhile, but it's pretty clear that my next build will probably be a chip based storage system. By then all this should be worked out...I hope
Isn't this stuff fun!
I got a LG HL-DT-ST BD-RE WH08LS20, 150$ 4 or 8X I forget, so far its a great drive killed a disc but thats because I tried burnign one with win7 and not img burn.
My old monitor was a 23inch monster, I do love my LCD monitor but I pet it will die by 013 LOL.
I am planing to put 2-3 grand into one last big computer upgrae befor I just maintain that level of PC until I can not stand it anymore. Since gaming has died to over protection and or sucky modern watered down designs there is little reason to put so much into a PC anymore.
Sata was based around portability, I think if they standardized a rubber grommet,one for independent cabling one for the data/power plug, that fit around the plugs to act as a buffer to bending it it would cure that design flaw. That or use a tougher plastic.
I find watching the tech war and how it evolves primarily the gameing stuff more interesting than the modern media that runs on it 0-o\
LOL
|
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
|
Senior Member
|
4. March 2010 @ 22:18 |
Link to this message
|
Quote:
Originally posted by Ryoohki:
if you are constantly writing information to the drive it will become a paperweight in short order. technology enthusiasts, gamers and road warriors would all stay far far away from these types of drives since they would be constantly writing new data onto them and they are too expensive and the space is much more limited
And how often do the "moving" part/platter drives fail? All the time. Even a casual glance at the reviews on newegg for all drives say that it doesnt matter which brand you pick..its a toss up as to whether your drive will last, or get the click of death. Since its a given that a regular hard drive will last a scant 3-5 years anyway, I'd rather get a SSD and not worry about dropping it, since if you drop a WD platter drive...its toast regardless. Encryption on the other hand, well it will be interesting to see if Truecrypt/Drivecrypt creators can come up with something that solves that dilemma.
On an average it is around 1% a really high number huh! Now Seagate has had some quality issues as of late and due to that their failure rate is higher. WD use to have problems but have started to make better drives which is what I buy now instead of Seagate. I understand Samsung makes good drives now but I haven't played with them so it is only what I hear. I do have still working 2, 4, & 8GB drives that go back before 88' but also have 40, & 80GB ones as well and some of these have been used 24/7 like a RAID drive would be used, or as Zippy calls them Enterprise drives. These drives that are still working are from Maxtor, Seagate, and WD the one major MFG that didn't hold up was the IBM drives which are now Hitachi. At this moment I will not buy Hitachi or Seagate drives as they are not the best.
SSD's are too slow, too expensive, too limited to their usage. The only real good place to use these drives are in hazardous environments were shock and/or dust is an issue.
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
4. March 2010 @ 22:31 |
Link to this message
|
Quote:
Quote:
Originally posted by Ryoohki:
if you are constantly writing information to the drive it will become a paperweight in short order. technology enthusiasts, gamers and road warriors would all stay far far away from these types of drives since they would be constantly writing new data onto them and they are too expensive and the space is much more limited
And how often do the "moving" part/platter drives fail? All the time. Even a casual glance at the reviews on newegg for all drives say that it doesnt matter which brand you pick..its a toss up as to whether your drive will last, or get the click of death. Since its a given that a regular hard drive will last a scant 3-5 years anyway, I'd rather get a SSD and not worry about dropping it, since if you drop a WD platter drive...its toast regardless. Encryption on the other hand, well it will be interesting to see if Truecrypt/Drivecrypt creators can come up with something that solves that dilemma.
On an average it is around 1% a really high number huh! Now Seagate has had some quality issues as of late and due to that their failure rate is higher. WD use to have problems but have started to make better drives which is what I buy now instead of Seagate. I understand Samsung makes good drives now but I haven't played with them so it is only what I hear. I do have still working 2, 4, & 8GB drives that go back before 88' but also have 40, & 80GB ones as well and some of these have been used 24/7 like a RAID drive would be used, or as Zippy calls them Enterprise drives. These drives that are still working are from Maxtor, Seagate, and WD the one major MFG that didn't hold up was the IBM drives which are now Hitachi. At this moment I will not buy Hitachi or Seagate drives as they are not the best.
SSD's are too slow, too expensive, too limited to their usage. The only real good place to use these drives are in hazardous environments were shock and/or dust is an issue.
I that the proper term these days? I always herd them called enterprise drives because they are mainly used by business and thus built a little bit better than the consumer end stuff.
Whats the throughout of your average 7X00 RPM HDD? I thought the newer SDD of 190MBS+ was a bit quicker. Now the older SDD stuff IDE or SATA is like flash on a USB 1 port :P
|
Senior Member
|
5. March 2010 @ 00:07 |
Link to this message
|
Enterprise is used adopted these days, as a server builder and talking to the drive reps we almost always refer to them as a RAID drives as they are used for disk arrays and require 24/7 operation with a higher MTBF. You can and a lot of people including the drive MFG use Enterprise to discuss/sell their better drives. What a lot of people don't understand is if they use a consumer drive in a RAID array and have the drives run 24/7 they void warranty. Whether the MFG enforces that all depends, but they can refuse to replace a drive that fails under the specified period if the drive has been used as a RAID drive.
A WD Black 2TB drive has a 3GBps throughput, 138MBps Host to/from (sustained), NOT BURST which is much higher, and that's not the Enterprise 15K drive, that's the 7200rpm drive. WD & Seagate has a 6GB/s drive on the new SATA3 platform but as I said I won't play with Seagate right now. SAS drives are in the same ballpark and can now handle the 6GBps throughput as well.
On the WD SSD 250GB drive the burst read rate is up to 250MBps and the write rate is up to 170MBps with a limit of 70GB/day and MTBF of 1,400,00 hours. That isn?t a true sustained read/write rate and heavy read cycles would prove that 250/170MB limit much lower. With the low power consumption of this SSD and the fact that it will operated at 80K feet makes it perfect for military use as well and has a MIL rating. But I doubt it will outperform the WD Black drives when it comes to performance even though SSD is getting better.
NOTE: Stay away from the Green crap especially if you are a gamer as they will not perform well and worst yet may sleep on you while playing a game. There is a reason they don't give you many spec's on green drives.
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
5. March 2010 @ 00:39 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
Enterprise is used adopted these days, as a server builder and talking to the drive reps we almost always refer to them as a RAID drives as they are used for disk arrays and require 24/7 operation with a higher MTBF. You can and a lot of people including the drive MFG use Enterprise to discuss/sell their better drives. What a lot of people don't understand is if they use a consumer drive in a RAID array and have the drives run 24/7 they void warranty. Whether the MFG enforces that all depends, but they can refuse to replace a drive that fails under the specified period if the drive has been used as a RAID drive.
A WD Black 2TB drive has a 3GBps throughput, 138MBps Host to/from (sustained), NOT BURST which is much higher, and that's not the Enterprise 15K drive, that's the 7200rpm drive. WD & Seagate has a 6GB/s drive on the new SATA3 platform but as I said I won't play with Seagate right now. SAS drives are in the same ballpark and can now handle the 6GBps throughput as well.
On the WD SSD 250GB drive the burst read rate is up to 250MBps and the write rate is up to 170MBps with a limit of 70GB/day and MTBF of 1,400,00 hours. That isn?t a true sustained read/write rate and heavy read cycles would prove that 250/170MB limit much lower. With the low power consumption of this SSD and the fact that it will operated at 80K feet makes it perfect for military use as well and has a MIL rating. But I doubt it will outperform the WD Black drives when it comes to performance even though SSD is getting better.
NOTE: Stay away from the Green crap especially if you are a gamer as they will not perform well and worst yet may sleep on you while playing a game. There is a reason they don't give you many spec's on green drives.
I run my PC 24/7 at least one drive is going all the time, I watch smart stats monthly/weekly. My 2 1TB WD drives(one is a green sadly) has been RMA'd once each, the seagate drives I got 1TB one 300GB has not given me trouble yet, I also have a 750GB WD drive that has my OS on it.
Yes I know I has franken computer(MSI PN7 platinum,2.8 c2D,2GB stick patriot low cas rating for DDR2, LG br burner,EVGA super clock 640MB 8800 GT), trying to clean things up by moving data to BR discs.
Oh BTW whats the down side to have the HDDs on their own PSU? I have 2 500watt, one runs the Mobo and video card the other runs the HDDs and fan. I have a manual switch to turn it on and off and have the extra PSU grounded to the case and running off a USP its own UPS.
I know its not the best setuup but I can't get a 1000watt PSU yet. Also I noticed I have less error from hard crashes.
Also whats the best 2GB drive on the market? I am more for space vrs raid but when I get my sht in order I would like to run a basic raid setup at least just for the OS HDD..
|
Senior Member
|
6. March 2010 @ 00:23 |
Link to this message
|
Your dual PS setup is fine and hopefully grounding won?t be an issue but to assure that I think I?d make sure that both PS?s are mounted to the same chassis just to be safe or add a ground wire from the PS not secured and attach it to the computer case chassis. You can get two 500 or 600 watt supplies cheaper than some of the larger PS?s so as long as you have the space it?s not a bad route to go. In servers they do this all the time but often it is a redundant configuration so that if one PS fails the other PS is used and a fail-over is set.
For WD drives I would wait until they release the new 6GB SATA or SAS drives which will be out very soon but if I was to go with something now in a RAID performance configuration I would look at VelociRaptor?s or WD S25 SAS drives for ultra-fast large drive numbers expensive arrays or for larger capacity but smaller array(s) the RE4 series drives with 64MB buffers and very fast latencies but at a much cheaper cost.
Unless you are rich the later is the way to go as drive sizes are 1.5TB & 2TB drives compared to 150GB & 300GB drives where you going to have to use nested arrays to gain capacity and cost is exponential. So going with the larger fast raid class drives is your best bet as you can use RAID 0,3,5,30,50 configurations for performance and 1,10 and so on for redundancy but slower performance. If you use class 0 which gives you the best performance you will not have redundancy so if a drive goes you lose everything and that is why I would suggest 5 or 1,0. If you use RAID 5 which is a nice route to go but there is a write hole stripe corruption problem with RAID 5 software where typically NVRAM is used on a controller solution to prevent this. Also there is ZFS RAID 5 which is more reliable too.
Best WD Desktop drive Model: WD1002FAEX is a 1TB SATA3 6GB throughput 64MB cache drive that is being sold now with 2TB and 750,640,500GB drives coming soon. Again on these drives you could void the warranty by using them in a RAID configuration but if you do, you really need to turn on the TLER mode with a software tool you can download from WD.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. March 2010 @ 00:33
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
6. March 2010 @ 00:36 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
Your dual PS setup is fine and hopefully grounding won?t be an issue but to assure that I think I?d make sure that both PS?s are mounted to the same chassis just to be safe or add a ground wire from the PS not secured to the computer case chassis. You can get two 500 or 600 watt supplies cheaper than some of the larger PS?s so as long as you have the space it?s not a bad route to go. I servers they do this all the time but often it is a redundant configuration so that if one PS fails the other PS is used and a fail-over is set.
For WD drives I would wait until they release the new 6GB SATA or SAS drives which will be out very soon but if I was to go with something now in a RAID performance configuration I would look at VelociRaptor?s or WD S25 SAS drives for ultra-fast large drive numbers expensive arrays or for larger capacity but smaller array(s) the RE4 series drives with 64MB buffers and very fast latencies but at a much cheaper cost.
Unless you are rich the later is the way to go as drive sizes are 1.5TB & 2TB drives compared to 150GB & 300GB drives where you going to have to use nested arrays to gain capacity and cost is exponential. So going with the larger fast raid class drives is your best bet as you can use RAID 0,3,5,30,50 configurations for performance and 1,10 and so on for redundancy but slower performance. If you use class 0 which gives you the best performance you will not have redundancy so if a drive goes you lose everything and that is why I would suggest 5 or 1,0. If you use RAID 5 which is a nice route to go but there is a write hole stripe corruption problem with RAID 5 software where typically NVRAM is used on a controller solution to prevent this. Also there is ZFS RAID 5 which is more reliable too.
Best WD Desktop drive Model: WD1002FAEX is a 1TB SATA3 6GB throughput 64MB cache drive that is being sold now with 2TB and 750,640,500GB drives coming soon. Again on these drives you could void the warranty by using them in a RAID configuration but if you do, you really need to turn on the TLER mode with a software tool you can download from WD.
Well its not installed in the case, I haz a caboose :P
I took some pictures but I will post them online when I get home this weekend, I have the other PSU mounted outside behind the internal PSU,
Well any brand will do for best HDD, well best space vrs life span, I got whatever HD I could on sale when I had the money.
Not really looking into HDDs right now but I may need one or 2 when I do my last great PC build in a couple years.
|
Senior Member
|
6. March 2010 @ 01:23 |
Link to this message
|
As to the ground issue if it is a hassle to run a ground wire from the external supply then don't do it you will still have a common ground at the wall outlet however you are much safer to make your common ground at the chassis.
Both Seagate and WD have 5 year warranties on their better drives but that doesn't always mean much if the drive fails in the first year and you lose all of you data whcih I've seen way too often with Seagate lately and is why I have moved to WD fo myself and customers. I used to push Seagate but when times change I try to change with them. Hitachi drives run hotter and just don't last as long as other drives so I stay away from them with exception to 2.5" drives. Before Hitachi started to make IBM's drives they made a very good drive for notebooks and some of those drives are OK. Like I said prior I've heard Samsung drives are good but I shy away from pushing those as I haven't worked with them as much as the other 3 MFG's and we are talking thousands of drives from the other 3 mostly WD and Seagate. Maxtor doesn't exist now since Seagate took them over nuch like Sumsung taking over for IBM.
Again WD SATA3 (6GBps) drives are the way to go in my opinon but if you want to gamble you can go with Seagate or Hitachi or Samsung but of those three I probably would still avoid Seagate.
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
6. March 2010 @ 01:52 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
As to the ground issue if it is a hassle to run a ground wire from the external supply then don't do it you will still have a common ground at the wall outlet however you are much safer to make your common ground at the chassis.
Both Seagate and WD have 5 year warranties on their better drives but that doesn't always mean much if the drive fails in the first year and you lose all of you data whcih I've seen way too often with Seagate lately and is why I have moved to WD fo myself and customers. I used to push Seagate but when times change I try to change with them. Hitachi drives run hotter and just don't last as long as other drives so I stay away from them with exception to 2.5" drives. Before Hitachi started to make IBM's drives they made a very good drive for notebooks and some of those drives are OK. Like I said prior I've heard Samsung drives are good but I shy away from pushing those as I haven't worked with them as much as the other 3 MFG's and we are talking thousands of drives from the other 3 mostly WD and Seagate. Maxtor doesn't exist now since Seagate took them over nuch like Sumsung taking over for IBM.
Again WD SATA3 (6GBps) drives are the way to go in my opinon but if you want to gamble you can go with Seagate or Hitachi or Samsung but of those three I probably would still avoid Seagate.
Ya I just made the case the ground, whats a good run temp for a HDD? I don't like it when they hit 40c s far as I knowanything under 40 should be safe enough.
Heh when will see a 6TB maybe I will buy a new HD then :P
|
Senior Member
|
7. March 2010 @ 02:22 |
Link to this message
|
If you are running continuosly and heats an issue the WD 2TB drive Model: WD20EVDS is good it is designed just for that with an operating temp range of 0-70C and is specifically designed for
PVR/DVR AV Streaming. The Black SATA2 drives temp range is 0-60C which isn't bad either but not made for continuos pounding at high temps.
There is a 8TB drive coming out soon as well but they will be very expensive of course.
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
7. March 2010 @ 13:40 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
If you are running continuosly and heats an issue the WD 2TB drive Model: WD20EVDS is good it is designed just for that with an operating temp range of 0-70C and is specifically designed for
PVR/DVR AV Streaming. The Black SATA2 drives temp range is 0-60C which isn't bad either but not made for continuos pounding at high temps.
There is a 8TB drive coming out soon as well but they will be very expensive of course.
So anything under 45c is great?
Ah 400$ for a 8TB HDD? :P
|
Senior Member
|
7. March 2010 @ 14:24 |
Link to this message
|
Quote:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
If you are running continuosly and heats an issue the WD 2TB drive Model: WD20EVDS is good it is designed just for that with an operating temp range of 0-70C and is specifically designed for
PVR/DVR AV Streaming. The Black SATA2 drives temp range is 0-60C which isn't bad either but not made for continuos pounding at high temps.
There is a 8TB drive coming out soon as well but they will be very expensive of course.
So anything under 45c is great?
Ah 400$ for a 8TB HDD? :P
Yup 45c is a great zone to run in if it gets higher then 50c I personally would get a low speed fan to blow or suck directly on them and make sure the drives have space between each other for proper cooling airflow. Airflow should always flow from the front of the case to the rear in todays standards.
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
7. March 2010 @ 14:36 |
Link to this message
|
Quote:
Quote:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
If you are running continuosly and heats an issue the WD 2TB drive Model: WD20EVDS is good it is designed just for that with an operating temp range of 0-70C and is specifically designed for
PVR/DVR AV Streaming. The Black SATA2 drives temp range is 0-60C which isn't bad either but not made for continuos pounding at high temps.
There is a 8TB drive coming out soon as well but they will be very expensive of course.
So anything under 45c is great?
Ah 400$ for a 8TB HDD? :P
Yup 45c is a great zone to run in if it gets higher then 50c I personally would get a low speed fan to blow or suck directly on them and make sure the drives have space between each other for proper cooling airflow. Airflow should always flow from the front of the case to the rear in todays standards.
Well my HDD right now run between 28 and 38 they did use to go as high as 45.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 7. March 2010 @ 15:12
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
8. March 2010 @ 14:20 |
Link to this message
|
|
|
Senior Member
|
8. March 2010 @ 22:54 |
Link to this message
|
|
I checked out your pictures and if you are going to keep using that system as is you might want to come up with a better solution for that PS than just hanging it off the tower loosely. None of your pictures show the I/O expansion so I'm not sure what kind of space you have but my suggestion would be to mount the PS to the inside of the side access panel of the case. You can cutout the little square holes in the rear of the case to sneak the power cord into the 2nd supply and TyRap it to the remaining square holes to provide strain relief. You can use the bottom screw mounts on the supply, not the rear mount normal ones, to secure the PS to the side panel which would require drilling 4 small hole in the side panel. Or you could use some Military quality velcro to secure it as well, Home Depot and others like that carry it. Unless you've gotten really wild with addon cards you should be able to jerry-rig the 2nd supply internally and avoid some potential issues that are real possibilty with what you are doing right now.
Hope that is constructive for you... ;)
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
9. March 2010 @ 00:24 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
I checked out your pictures and if you are going to keep using that system as is you might want to come up with a better solution for that PS than just hanging it off the tower loosely. None of your pictures show the I/O expansion so I'm not sure what kind of space you have but my suggestion would be to mount the PS to the inside of the side access panel of the case. You can cutout the little square holes in the rear of the case to sneak the power cord into the 2nd supply and TyRap it to the remaining square holes to provide strain relief. You can use the bottom screw mounts on the supply, not the rear mount normal ones, to secure the PS to the side panel which would require drilling 4 small hole in the side panel. Or you could use some Military quality velcro to secure it as well, Home Depot and others like that carry it. Unless you've gotten really wild with addon cards you should be able to jerry-rig the 2nd supply internally and avoid some potential issues that are real possibilty with what you are doing right now.
Hope that is constructive for you... ;)
Considering I have no room in the case and have to take it apart and take it over to my uncles 3 or 6 items a year and I do not want to "harm" my 100$ aero cool case it going to be a hanging caboose :P, I been trying to find a good 5inch bay PSU. Any suggestions for that?
|
Senior Member
|
9. March 2010 @ 01:07 |
Link to this message
|
It would be easier and cheaper in the long run just to buy a larger PS that you could mount normally. But if you wanted to put a PS in the 5-1/2 bay you could use a low watt (250w)special minicase supply or you could use a 1u server supply but they may be too long for the 460w one depending which bay you use to mount it and what type of fan you use to cool the CPU.
Here is a link of a 1u PS;
http://hypermicro.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PSFS005
|
|
petesteyn
Newbie
|
9. March 2010 @ 02:03 |
Link to this message
|
|
Hi, I am a team member of brewatalk.com, a web start-up where you can have interesting conversation with people without the clutter of advertisement coming in between. BrewaTalk is free and easy to use. Just follow the link below to check out what others are talking and start brewing!
www.brewatalk.com
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
9. March 2010 @ 09:14 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
It would be easier and cheaper in the long run just to buy a larger PS that you could mount normally. But if you wanted to put a PS in the 5-1/2 bay you could use a low watt (250w)special minicase supply or you could use a 1u server supply but they may be too long for the 460w one depending which bay you use to mount it and what type of fan you use to cool the CPU.
Here is a link of a 1u PS;
http://hypermicro.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PSFS005
The 1000 watt PSU I want to get is 300$, so buying a 90$ PSU will get my through the year or 2 till I can get it.
I am still playing with it I have looked up many mini or smaller PSUs but ran across a few cheap drive by PSUs, I know its crude and hardly finished but it will do for now.
|
Senior Member
|
9. March 2010 @ 10:01 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
It would be easier and cheaper in the long run just to buy a larger PS that you could mount normally. But if you wanted to put a PS in the 5-1/2 bay you could use a low watt (250w)special minicase supply or you could use a 1u server supply but they may be too long for the 460w one depending which bay you use to mount it and what type of fan you use to cool the CPU.
Here is a link of a 1u PS;
http://hypermicro.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PSFS005
The 1000 watt PSU I want to get is 300$, so buying a 90$ PSU will get my through the year or 2 till I can get it.
I am still playing with it I have looked up many mini or smaller PSUs but ran across a few cheap drive by PSUs, I know its crude and hardly finished but it will do for now.
Here is a very good supply for $99 it is a 950w with (4) 12v rails, active PFC and it is a 80 plus certified PS. You don't need to spend $300 for a 1000w supply to get a good supply and you certinally don't need to Mickey Mouse like you are right now.
Rosewill Xtreme Series RX950-S-B 950W Continuous @40°C ,80 PLUS Certified, ATX12V v2.2 & EPS12V v2.91, SLI Ready CrossFire Ready, Active PFC
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182096
|
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
|
9. March 2010 @ 10:26 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
It would be easier and cheaper in the long run just to buy a larger PS that you could mount normally. But if you wanted to put a PS in the 5-1/2 bay you could use a low watt (250w)special minicase supply or you could use a 1u server supply but they may be too long for the 460w one depending which bay you use to mount it and what type of fan you use to cool the CPU.
Here is a link of a 1u PS;
http://hypermicro.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PSFS005
The 1000 watt PSU I want to get is 300$, so buying a 90$ PSU will get my through the year or 2 till I can get it.
I am still playing with it I have looked up many mini or smaller PSUs but ran across a few cheap drive by PSUs, I know its crude and hardly finished but it will do for now.
Here is a very good supply for $99 it is a 950w with (4) 12v rails, active PFC and it is a 80 plus certified PS. You don't need to spend $300 for a 1000w supply to get a good supply and you certinally don't need to Mickey Mouse like you are right now.
Rosewill Xtreme Series RX950-S-B 950W Continuous @40°C ,80 PLUS Certified, ATX12V v2.2 & EPS12V v2.91, SLI Ready CrossFire Ready, Active PFC
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...7182096
Rosewell is a pretty iffy brand and its not modeler :P
Now this gets my all wet!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256044
Also this is not bad for the price >>
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182188
Not completely modeler tho >>
Copyright infringement is nothing more than civil disobedience to a bad set of laws. Lets renegotiate them.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 9. March 2010 @ 10:33
|
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
Senior Member
|
9. March 2010 @ 11:08 |
Link to this message
|
Rosewill makes good products at an inexpensive price I've had more problems with Thermaltake than Rosewill and I've used both a lot. There are plenty of cheap solutions that will work well and don't require all the mess you have right now Raidmax is another PS that is pretty good but cheap in price. Another PS I avoid is CoolMaster I've had a couple go belly up just after the year warranty is up and their customer service really blows. Another very solid PS is Sparkle but they typically are not fancy PS's so that wouldn't be of interest to you probably.
Remember your just trying to get by right now until you get your dream PS. I don't know you configuration but do you really need a 1000w PS or is your requirement more due to bragging rights then actual power required? Have you added up your device power? Do you need more 5v wattage or 12v wattage? If you haven't done your math I would do so and then add 10% or so, also consider any future expansion that could fit into your case.
Good luck with your endeavor?
|
