I have tried to back up killzone loads of times now and every time I have failed (I have never copied a game before). First I just copied it normally but I know now that shouldn?t have worked now anyway. Then I used DVD decrypter and it worked, the game was going fine but next time I tried killzone again and it got stuck when it was loading at the start. So I tried it again on a 1x speed and I got not ps2 disk or something. Then I tried it on alcohol 120% and I got the same message. This is really annoying me now does anyone know what I could be doing wrong?
1. Take the ps2 game put it in the dvd rom or dvd burner, your choice.
2. open the dvd decryptor program then go to to tool bar and hit MODE>ISO>READ. Then choose the correct dvd drive that the game is in as the "source". Also choose where you want the files to be stored on the pc hdd. THEN CLICK DECRYPT , or the huge graphical picture at the bottom of the program which makes it run. The game is now copying to your HDD. Take the game out when finished (it might take a while).
3. Go to the same tab in dvd decryptor and choose MODE>ISO>WRITE. This will then let you look for the files you just created in step 2. Select the file that you just created. (There is only 2 files creadted so pick the .mds) (The smaller file)Then click WRITE, make sure there is blank DVD in the drive.
The following list is in preference order. The best discs are near the top of the list. The discs at
the bottom of the list are suitable only for a landfill.
Almost flawless burns with 95-100% reliable results:
PVC = Pioneer = (-R)(-RW)
MXLRG01, MXLRG02 = Maxell = (-R) ... be aware of unbranded fakes
MCC = Mitsubishi Chemicals = (-R)<-----------------VERBATIM MY CHOICE #1
TDKG02 = TDK Corp = (-R) ... be aware of unbranded fakes
TAIYOYUDEN or YUDEN = Taiyo Yuden = (-R)<--------------FUJIFILM (made in japan) MY CHOICE #2
Decent discs, though not perfect, about 85-95%
success rate:
RICOHJPN = Ritek or Ricoh = (+R)
SONYD04 = Sony = (-R) ... be aware of unbranded fakes
PRODISC = Prodisc Media = (+RW)
INFODISC = Infodisc Media = (+RW)
RITEKG04 = Ritek = (-R)
RITEKG03 = Ritek = (-R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (-R)
Quality can be very questionable, about 50-80% success rate:
LEADDATA or LD01 or LD or LEDA = Lead Data = (-R)(-RW)
PRINCO = Princo = (-R)(-RW)
RITEK = Ritek = (-RW)
ONIDTECH = OnidTech = (-R)
Pathetic garbage media, landfill material, about 0-50% success rate:
RITEKG01, RITEKG02 = Ritek = (-R)
PIODATA = Lead Data = (-R) ... often sold as "Pioneer OEM" but that's false
Unbranded PIO = Fake Pioneer = (-R) ... often sold as "Pioneer OEM" but that's false
Unbranded SONY = Fake Sony = (-R)
Unbranded MXL = Fake MXL = (-R)
ACCU = Unknown OEM = (-R)
LONGTEN = Unknown OEM = (-R)
AN31, AN32, ANWELL, AN30 = Unknown OEM = (-R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (+R)(+RW)
MATRIX = Unknown OEM = (-R)
CMC = CMC Magnetics = (+R)(-R)
ANYTHING ELSE = Unknown OEM or NEW
I got killzone to work now but I had to write it at max speed, if I do it any lower it comes up not a valid ps2 disc. This happens if I do it on DVD Decrypter or Alcohol 120%. Anyone know why this happens please?
