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Qoob Pro Installed But Normal Boot Screen
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homerjnm
Newbie
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23. July 2005 @ 15:20 |
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OK I installed the Qoob Pro modchip, followed the board diagram and flashed the Qoob up to 1.3a no problems.
But two things wrong. Firstly, my DVD doesn't spin at all but maybe that is because I havent screwed down my cube yet as I know the DVD part needs to lock into place but....
Secondly when I switched on my cube I got nothing, so I then covered the 2 points that got wired under the cooler with electrical insulating tape and now it boots but straight into my normal cube screen as no chip was installed. I have checked the soldering and it seems fine.
Any suggestions?
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xxsaijin
Member
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24. July 2005 @ 10:28 |
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Well for the part as the disk doesnt spin, I think I can answer that part. Well you have the case removed right? If thats the issue then look at the back of the GC where the LID switch is, you should see 2 pointy switches, they're colored black, just turn the power to your GC and hold BOTH of the switches back and the disk should spin, if they dont that means your LID switch is messed up. Thats atleast what I think. Hope it helps.
xxSaijin |
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homerjnm
Newbie
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24. July 2005 @ 14:32 |
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Ha nice one, of course the disc wont spin unless the lid is closed and yes I have the case off!! Well spotted mate, I should have got that one!!!!
But what about my Qoob?
I have soldered the points and I am positive they are fine, I got black scren until I covered the two points under the cooler with tape and now my gamecube boots ok but to the normal screen as if there is no chip there.
Plug the USB cable into the chip and can flash it ok, its 1.3a bios on it!!!
Since my cube is booting as per no chip does this mean my soldering is not quite right? My cube cant be bust as it boots ok but just no chip aaaahhhhh.
Any help anybody?
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BOy2K
Newbie
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26. July 2005 @ 06:28 |
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you will prolly be able to connect to the qoob and flash it as long
as its connected to the usb. i could be wrong but im sure you
could do this before you install.
sounds like your wires arent soldered properly.
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homerjnm
Newbie
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27. July 2005 @ 11:37 |
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OK,
I resoldered the wires and they all seem fine but my GC boots up just as if there is no chip.
Well actually it boots up but the DVD doesnt spin. I disconnect the Qoob switch near the 2 switches that control the DVD drive and put back in the normal switch and it boots up ok and this time the DVD does spin.
So anybody got any ideas? I'll maybe show pics of my soldering!
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xxsaijin
Member
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27. July 2005 @ 12:13 |
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I have the same damn problem with my qoob... I took it to a professional HAHA paid him 30 bucks and he installed it. Besides first time I tried it I destroyed my GC, (I had warrenty :D).
Though Qoob is better over all Viper GC is a much simpilor installation, only 4 wires.
xxSaijin
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homerjnm
Newbie
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28. July 2005 @ 00:01 |
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Well I sorted it and now my Qoob works a treat. I found another site where it tells me not to solder the Red wire to that gold point but if you follow the point down and solder it to the leg of the chip that where the wire goes into for the Control Pads it then worked!!!
Joy o Joys!!!
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dmpjat
Newbie
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14. August 2005 @ 03:20 |
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have u got a link for that site with the alternative solder point for the 5v wire...??? is it the leg that is the same side as the old solder point or is it on the front side?? thx
jay
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jonwallen
Newbie
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17. September 2005 @ 16:22 |
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I am having the same problem! Except mine isn't because the lid is not on. I installed the qoob chip and it seemed to work "okay". I soldered everything according to instructions then plugged in the blue wire where it's supposed to go. Well I had everything together except for the security screws. I plugged it all in and it didn't spin. But then I powered it down and pushed down on the cd and then turned it on and it spun up. My game then loaded fine and the qoob boot screen came up. I was happy. Turned the unit over and screwed the security screws in. Turned it back over, powered it on and no spinning. Kept messing around with it, pushing on the cd, etc. and it wouldn't spin up. So I took it all apart again, checked my soldering, added some black tape to some of the wires so there was no contact with the heat sink. No luck. The status light lights up on the chip so I know it's working, just won't spin a cd! It's very frustrating. I checked the blue wires and everything seems to be fine. I unplugged the chip, plugged back in the original plug where it goes and the cd spins up no problem (games load fine)...but when I plug the chip back in, it won't spin up!
Anyone else have this problem and a solution to fix it? Is there any particular wire(s) I should be looking at? Could this be that 5v red wire not soldered good maybe (seems like a lot of people are having problems with this wire)? I checked the blue wires and they seem fine.
Maybe I just got a bum chip :-(
Jon
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makors
Newbie
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18. September 2005 @ 11:48 |
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I got the same problem.
Qoob workek for about 4 days, then the drive stopped to spin.
Now i have an error message like "Check the lid switch wire".
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jonwallen
Newbie
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18. September 2005 @ 13:53 |
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Well, if I figure it out, I will post what I did here. I'm going to mess with it tomorrow again and see if I can figure out what is going on.
Jon
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homerjnm
Newbie
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18. September 2005 @ 23:23 |
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Its your red wire mate as it happened to me. I had it all working then put the case on and the erd wire got dislodged, thats why I soldered it onto the leg of the chip.
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makors
Newbie
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19. September 2005 @ 09:06 |
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Ok, now i unplugged the "LID-Switch cable" from Qoob and reconnected the original one.
And it works, takes about 10 seconds more to boot, but it works.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 19. September 2005 @ 09:07
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jonwallen
Newbie
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26. September 2005 @ 12:23 |
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Nope, it's not the red wire. I disconnected my red wire and the qoob chip didn't come on at all. I then resoldered it to the leg of the chip (the alternate location) and the qoob status light then comes on, but same problem (cd will NOT spin).
I resoldered EVERYTHING and rechecked and rechecked. Put it all together and same darn problem. If I disconnect the cd wire it spins, qoob status light is on, but no qoob boot menu...I plug in the wires for qoob and the status light on the chip comes on but no spinning and the default nintendo screen comes up.
This is really getting on my nerves.
Jon
Jon
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homerjnm
Newbie
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27. September 2005 @ 03:27 |
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Your symptoms are EXACTLY what happened to me when my red wire was not soldered correctly.
As you say you have checked them and resoldered, not much more I can offer in advice.
I do know that when my red wire was not done properly the drive would not spin unless I disconnected the drive wire from the Qoob and put in the normal one and it would boot up on the normal nintendo screen.
Do you get a black screen when you have the Qoob wire in the drive? You say it spins but nothing on the screen? If that is the case then check the 2 wires under the fan as they need tape over them to stop them shorting on the fan itself.
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jonwallen
Newbie
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27. September 2005 @ 10:55 |
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Oh okay. It is probably that then. I think I fried the gamecube somehow lol...but I got another one on the way! :-)...I think the gamecube was kind of messed up to begin with though. Once in awhile the thing wouldn't spin at all. Well, whatever I did it made it like that for good.
And, no, I didn't get a black screen. The Nintendo screen comes up because the drive won't spin. I put tape over the yellow and purple wires to keep it from grounding out. I now think you are probably right. It's probably just something to do with that red wire...it's a real pain to connect, and I'm probably just not getting it soldered good. I am going to try again in a few days when I have the chance.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Jon
Jon
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poodude
Junior Member
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29. September 2005 @ 17:29 |
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Sounds like you didn't take those two cables from the chip that bypasses the lid. The qoob male connector goes into the GC's female connector, and the male connector of the GC goes into the female connector of the Qoob. That gold connection, you want to sand a little and clean with alcohol to get a good strong solder point. They're tricky. I have a tutorial up, using the qoob pro in this forum. Check it out.
yeah, I know you're retarded.
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skold
Newbie
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26. October 2005 @ 07:03 |
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SO i installed the qoob pro, and all looked well, but when i went to boot her up, i too go the black screen.......only, when i unplugged the chip and unsoldered everything and wanted just the regular cube back, i still got the black screen. Powers up fine, orange lights comes on, fan comes on, and the mod chip even boots up and can have a bios installed.............so what exactly causes the black screen? Does anybody know?
Thanks
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boboclown
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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27. October 2005 @ 12:25 |
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All this talk of black screen and inability to recover to a functioning GameCube has got me a little worried.
My QOOB is due here tomorrow. I'm really comfortable in my soldering skills, so as long has I know the right points to attach to (plus drawing 5V from the alternate location), I thought it would be a breeze.
I am assuming everyone is making sure they have solid connections at the solder points, not overzealous with solder, essentially factory looking weld points. I also assume that if you have LED light on QOOB light up, there is no question on your power connection.
People aren't inadvertanly using the the QOOB SX wiring instructions instead of the QOOB PRO instructions, are they? Comparing them, they seem the same EXCEPT the point where you draw power from.
I'm not sure why people aren't using the 1.3C Qob BIOS. Could this be part of the problem? That or even though you appear to have a good flash of the BIOS, you don't. Have people tried reflashing?
It looks like when you flash the BIOS, the flash utility asks you "how" you want to boot the BIOS... 4 options there it looks like: Boot when X key held, Boot when Y key held, Boot when game is inserted, or Boot automatically... What are folks here choosing for that option?
I wish I had better visuals on this Disk Drive wire QOOB thing. Is there a pair of wires (not shown in any QOOB Pro kit picture I have seen) that connects from the QOOB Pro over to the Lid Switch? Only wires I have ever seen Blue/Green/Black/Red/Purple/Yellow wires, and all those have solder points to the mainboard. Can someone explain this Lid Switch wiring.
One final thought is the disk drive not working because of some other wiring, unrelated to the QOOB PRO, get dislodged during disasembly or reassembly. Could that be? Like the wire strap that runs from the main board to the drive unit (Sorry, just going off of pictures).
Finally, a status check please from the posters on this thread:
homerjnm: still broken? same status?
jonwallen: ?
makers: ?
skold: ?
poodude, you have a handy link?
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skold
Newbie
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27. October 2005 @ 14:27 |
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Seeing how i just attempted the mod yesterday, it's still down......I'm hoping I just did a sloppy soldering job, because I know those skills are lacking....so maybe i can remove the solder some how and try again.
You shouldn't be skeptical about atleast trying the mod.....what fun is NOT trying to do it? :) you'll always be wondering, What if....
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boboclown
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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27. October 2005 @ 16:21 |
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Ohhh I will definately do the mod. I know what it is like to have a chipped XBOX, as well as DISH Atmel emulation. Soldering to mainboards is no big deal.
It is just this mysterious error that a few of you are up against. Well, about this time tomorrow, or Sat, I will post the outcomes of my 'upgrade'. Perhaps I will either be in the same boat, or will have info to help illuminate what differences in procedure we performed. Either way, I will detail my application.
I posted several ideas and questions on that last post. Any further comments you have in regards to those?
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skold
Newbie
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27. October 2005 @ 18:22 |
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just a little update of my progress :)
saved my system, it wasn't fried afterall, which is pretty fantastic i must say............the bios chip was bridged in a couple places due to my lack of soldering skills so i had to clean that up real well so got the cube back to working atleast.....i'll attempt the mod again soon, and maybe i won't burn myself as much
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Venom5880
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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27. October 2005 @ 20:28 |
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Alright boboclown, let's see what I can answer...
A lot of the problems in this topic seem to be caused by poor solder connections, solder bridges that don't belong, and the like. Hence the malfunctioning GCs such as skolds. Best way to avoid this is to use a small amount of rosin core solder with a low wattage iron so that all connections are clean with a lower chance of damaging components. If a solder bridge occurs then a razor blade will do the job provided it's a very small amount of solder.
Other problems might include the lid switch, since it seems as though a few posters haven't connected the qoob's lid switch. The idea is to remove the original wire from the switch, plug in the one that came with the qoob Pro, and plug the original wire into the qoob Pro's lid switch wire. It's set up this way so that whenever the qoob Pro is active the lid switch will be disabled, allowing the disc to spin even if the lid is open. Normally, the GC will stop the disc when the lid is open. Whenever the qoob Pro isn't active, the lid will perform as if the qoob Pro's lid switch isn't even there.
The bios *may* not matter since some of these guys might not have flashed over the first bios bank, which contains the 1.0 default bios. The default bios is completely stable, so it's a good idea to try booting that up before flashing a different bios to the chip anyway. Just to check and make sure things are working properly, such as the lid switch and the ability to boot up originals. The reason not everyone uses 1.3c is because it isn't considered 100% stable. Apparently, some people have issues with it, so not everyone uses it. I use it myself, and haven't had any problems with it.
I'm not quite sure what options your talking about when flashing the BIOS. They sound vaguely familiar. As I recall, the qoob Pro is set to boot automatically by default.
The qoob Pro chip has the wires that are soldered to the motherboard, a ribbon cable for the USB terminal, and a lid switch connected with wires and terminals. The lid switch goes from the qoob Pro and is connected in between the original lid switch terminals.
The wiring doesn't seem to be the problem as much the solder jobs. The wires don't connect to the drive unit, they just sort of go in between the drive units mounting bracket and onto the motherboard. This might cause problems for some since the wires could get pinched if they aren't routed well.
Also, check out the modthatcube qoob Pro guide since it shows lots of pictures that'll surely answer any questions you may have regarding installation. It literally breaks down everything into baby steps.
Good luck with the install and hopefully everyone can get their qoob's up and running.
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boboclown
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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28. October 2005 @ 08:39 |
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Venom, once again, a beautifully detailed answer. Thanks you for taking the time to make it that way.
This is all good. Assuming UPS is on time, I am "T minus 10 hours" from my own installation.
One question in the response you gave, second paragraph: When QOOB is enabled, and I have a game booted up and running, if I open the Lid, the game disc will continue to spin, and NOT stop. Which means that to swap out games when in QOOB-mode, you have to power down, swap game, power up. Right? Why do you think the QOOB wants the disk to spin always, even when the Lid is up? Seems like a strange design decision...
thanks!
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skold
Newbie
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28. October 2005 @ 16:48 |
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good question by the way boboclown....
UPDATE: Got my chip working on the first try after my first failed attempt. It was actually pretty easy after you take your time and not do it right after you wake up from a deep sleep :)
So far so good, workin' like a dream
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