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Freezing half way through
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chrisgabs
Newbie
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12. September 2005 @ 11:33 |
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never mind
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 12. September 2005 @ 11:41
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chrisgabs
Newbie
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12. September 2005 @ 11:41 |
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im dumb i am so new @ this all my dvds are freezing halfway through. i dont know my specs. i am using good quality dvds. i have plenty space on my harddrive. i am just sh@t at this. they all play fine on my pc.... im uding dvd shrink, divxtodvd, and nero smartstart. i also use isobuster. they all play fine until about 45 mins in. i have downloaded dvd-r copies and they work fine its just when u have to convert them they stickkkkkkkk
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 12. September 2005 @ 11:55
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ScubaPete
AfterDawn Addict
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12. September 2005 @ 13:11 |
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You need to define "good quality" discs - you're idea and our could be different -
There are several reasons why you may be having trouble playing your backups and need to make all of the following changes if you wish to eliminate your problems.
1. Adjust your program's DVD target size from DVD-5 to "Custom" and set your size to 4200 MB. First, you need to understand that your disc will **not the 4.7 GB that is printed on the disc. Please see explanation at this post's conclusion. Attempting to burn to most proggy's default settings means you'll be burning to the disc's outer-most edge where the dye app is apt to be uneven or, on cheaper quality discs, even absent. Burning to the disc's edge is generally the cause of coasters during the burn phase and may well cause "stuttering ," "pixelation" or complete "freezing" during disc playback. Allowing a small "safety" ring at the disc's outer edge will help you burn even bad media. Once you begin using the "Good" stuff, you can adjust your DVD target size upwards from 4200 MB up to 4360 MB thereby lessening your compression rate and improving your backup's quality.
2. Reduce your burning speed to 4X. When burning DVD videos, burning too fast causes problems, period ! When you see a disc advertising 8X or higher burn speed OR when your burn program OK's a burning speed of 12X or 16X, that speed is for pple copying data, not DVD Video. Attempting to burn at a high speed is akin to driving a car at a constant 80 MPH (129 KPH). Yes, the car will go that fast but you're guaranteed to have an accident when you encounter an unexpended sharp curve or a turn you needed to make. Driving that same car at a constant 25 MPH (40 KPH), will always take longer but, when a sharp curve or turn comes up, you'll have no problem making that turn without a mishap. (We're equating the "mishap" to a coaster instead of a car crash.)
Two things good about my example:
One, nobody gets killed
And
Two, burning at 4X isn't all that slow at all, an est. 18 - 22 minutes for the average DVD.
3. Always use a quality media. Attempting to use low quality medias such as Memorex, "store brands" and the like will only add to your coaster collection. While Memorex are ideal for data, photo and even music backup / storage, they have an extremely poor record for DVD video work.
A note for those considering the usage of Memorex Dual-Layered discs for their new, hi-end burners ~ In several unofficial tests done on Memorex DL discs, they had, as their best, a 33 and 1/3% failure rate. At $5.00 ea. (USD), that's an incredibly expensive disc to use. Again, Verbatim's were the best with a 100% success rate.
A good grade, Hi-quality media is needed for DVD reproduction ! Phillips, Fuji +R's (not the -R's UNLESS they are made in Japan), Sony, TDK, HP, "Branded" RiData G03's, Maxell +R (not the -R's as they cannot be trusted), Sony, Ritek G04 and G05's (not the 01's or the 02's), Verbatim - DataLife, Verbatim - DataLife Plus and media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO" BUT, it must say " Advanced METAL AZO", this indicates a superior dye and dye application on a good composite disc. Other discs such as "Great AZO" are, in a word, crap. As a general rule, the majority of discs manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, Mitsubishi, RICOH are good bets. Only those Ritek named above are to be trusted, the rest should be avoided like the plague. LQQk closely at those discs we recommended, you will see some dye types not listed by us. Those are poor risks even though they are made by the same company. Prices online from SuperMediaStore.com, Meritline.com OR Newegg.com have gotten Ritek G04 starting at about a $ .36 (USD) a disc - and just recently, a "Super Sale" had 100 Taiyo Yuden discs, 4X for $.25 ea.(USD). An added PLUS, they all have an excellent return policy. As a passing note, when buying Verbatim's, they come with a lifetime warrantee. Return them with a copy of your Internet sales slip [I]OR[/I] a retail cash register receipt and a new one will be shipped out straight away to replace your faulty problem one, no problemo`.
For some excellent, online media stores to shop, try -
Mertline.com
http://meritline.com/
Newegg.com
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-132-...
OR,
Supermediastore.com
http://www.supermediastore.com/media1.html
Shopping around at retail stores can prove worthwhile as well even though exchanging an opened pack of media is next to impossible. ~ Staples, as of this date, offered HP +R DVD's (I LQQked them up using DVDIdentifier and they are made by Mitsubishi) for $18.00 per 50. Verbatim's were on sale offering a $10.00 (USD) rebate on a pack of 25, $20.00 (USD) on a pack of 50 AND Taiyo Yuden where on sale with their 4X, -R, DVD's for $.25 each (USD) ]in packs of 100 just a fortnight (2-weeks) past ~ Think of it, Taiyo Yuden's for $25 ea. There are sales all the time for the "Good" stuff - So you sea, quality isn't always expensive ~
I highly recommend DVDIdentifier as one way to your check media prior to burning up a storm:
DVDIdentifier:
http://dvd.identifier.cdfreaks.com/
** The difference of 4.7GB DVD and 4.36GB DVD -
Quote:
DVD disc manufacturers love to use marketing terms and sell their discs as 4.7GB discs, but this is not true -- the 4.7GB is calculated by using so-called "Japanese gigabytes", where the power of calculations is 1,000 instead of 1,024 (and 1.024 is the correct way to calculate everything in computer world -- so, 1024 megabytes == 1 gigabyte). Manufacturers do this false advertising all the time so you think you are getting more than you are, They do it with Hard Drives also so if you buy a 200 GB Hard Drive it isn?t really 200 GB it is actually 189 GB. (I just checked both of my 200 GB drives and that?s exactly right. What a rip off - Lol) At any rate, we prefer to calculate the available writing space on a DVD as 4.38 GB to include the reverse math and also provide a bit of room for overhead :-)
Once again, a 4.7 DVD disc can only hold 4.38 GB of information. The "Slide-rule types" will tell you that you can write to 4.38GB - you don't NEED to allow for overhead. I like to adjust the "Target size" to around 4360MB. It's not much difference but it will provide you with a little extra wiggle room and insure that you don't write to the very physical edge of your disc. When setting the size to 4200MB you can actually see a tiny unburned ring on the outside of your next DVD backup. If you are stuck using "el Cheapo" media, this is one good way to reduce your "coaster Percentage". The edge of the disc is the place where flaking sometimes occurs so that your movie might "stick" or "freeze" there.
I hope that helps,
Pete
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chrisgabs
Newbie
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12. September 2005 @ 15:03 |
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will try burning slower ta!!!
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