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Qoob Pro install problems
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pressed
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4. October 2005 @ 20:02 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Ok, I soldered my qoob pro to the board no probs, checked continuity with a multimeter everywhere, all read 0.00 indicating they were properly connected. First tried to reassemble with the eject switch in, black screen, put it back the way it was w/out the Qoob's eject connectors, and without the USB connector on (just the chip only) now it will boot properly (as if no chip is there) works with my retail GC games.

Noticable problems:
1) the led does not come on the chip (the 5v seems to be connected as the multimeter indicates, so this makes no sense)
2) obviously since the chip does not get power, the normal GC screen is shown on start up
3) The Led to indicate power is on (the orange one on top) does not illuminate, I was running it w/out a case and screws for test purposes. I have no clue why this wouldn't come on...

Things I tried:
1) checked continuity from solder points to behind the chip to ensure the connector w/the wires was in properly, all read 0.00 so they're connected (makes me think that there could be a prob w/the 5 volt...or worse the chip itself is damaged from some cause such as static shock (who knows)
2) checked all the points to ensure they were not bridged to adjacent points when they should not be (all checked out a-ok)
3) as stated above I tried it w/out the Qoob eject cable.
4) there is electrical tape over the yellow/purple wires to prevent contact with the heat sink.

Any suggestions? Is there a way to determine if the chip is fried? Also, I have heard that an alternate solder point for the 5v is easier to solder to, where is this exactly?

Everything I have read says this thing should be working but it is not! The chip has no bios presently as I was planning to flash it with the USB cable when I get that start up screen.

Anything you guys suggest I'm glad to hear, thanks for looking!

I just read that the orange light would not illuminate if the resistor above the 5v was damaged/dislodged, that must be what happened because though it looks ok, it must not be...damn.
I do have another cube, (unmodded) I had to buy the one I am modding because the damn thing stopped playing my games, it would play one for about 2 minutes, then say "can't read disk" did it w/all my games (which are flawless on the data side). It must be a lens prob, can I use the laser assembly of the one that works on the board of the other if they are both a/b type? I don't see why it wouldn't work...I might have a second shot at this afterall if I can do that.

I cover my bases...
1)Xbox w/xecuter 2.6 solderless
2)Ps2 (slim) w/DMS4 Lite
3)Ps2 V7 w/DMS4 Lite and 200 Gig Maxtor HDD
4)GC w/qoob pro

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. October 2005 @ 20:17

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djrazor
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4. October 2005 @ 20:56 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sounds like your other unmodded gamecube is having issues with the POT setting, http://modthatcube.pxn-os.com/main.htm go there and look for the info on adjusting the POT

as for your current gamecube issues, who's instructions are you following for the install? check out that same modthatcube site for it's instructions, they may be different than yours
pressed
Member
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5. October 2005 @ 18:16 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I use offical Qoob version A/B directions (thats what I have) I got them from modthatcube, thats not the problem, but I still haven't fixed it yet...

I cover my bases...
1)Xbox w/xecuter 2.6 solderless
2)Ps2 (slim) w/DMS4 Lite
3)Ps2 V7 w/DMS4 Lite and 200 Gig Maxtor HDD
4)GC w/qoob pro
Sumone157
Member
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10. October 2005 @ 17:42 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
whats the difference between A n B
or c


and how do u check what type u have

Member
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11. October 2005 @ 00:50 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
VER A & B Have Both the regular AV and DIGITAL AV Inputs on the back whereas the Ver C only has 1 AV Input. The DOL-001 Series are Ver A's Im pretty sure all the rest of the 2 AV Input Consoles are Ver B and of course only 1 AV input indicates Ver C.
homerjnm
Newbie
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11. October 2005 @ 05:02 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The "other" point to solder the red wire is easy. If you follow the path down from where you are supposed to solder it you will come to the chip at the bottom of the GC, you solder it onto the last leg of this chip, it is in direct line (follow it) with where you are supposed to solder it.
pressed
Member
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11. October 2005 @ 18:59 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
i had it working, but then i reassembled it, and the damn green wire was nearly severed, so i had to cut it and resplice it, and as of yet, the chip still won't work again, so close, but so far, and i did use the alternate 5v, the chip has power, led is always on, i've resoldered the blue/green/yellow/purple even the black once, a dozen times for the others, no change at all. I might buy a new motherboard but the damn thing still works if the chip is off. I have no clue whats wrong with this thing!

I cover my bases...
1)Xbox w/xecuter 2.6 solderless
2)Ps2 (slim) w/DMS4 Lite
3)Ps2 V7 w/DMS4 Lite and 200 Gig Maxtor HDD
4)GC w/qoob pro
poomonsta
Newbie
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12. October 2005 @ 15:49 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
By down, do you mean down to side B of the GC motherboard? Or is the alternate solder point still on side A? I'm having a hard time finding the "chip." Do you mean that thing the front controller panel goes into? Could you possibly get a picture of this please?

These are pictures of what I'm thinking after reading your post.
http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/8570/gcmobo15xf.jpg

zoomed in:
http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/7121/gcmobo21uk.jpg

Is that what you're talking about?

poooooooo
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pressed
Member
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12. October 2005 @ 16:00 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
By chip, i meant the Qoob pro itself, I have gotten power to work, and now the chip works too. The problem was that the actual wires at the wiring harness side (going to the chip) were kinda like not really pressed in too good, so...pretty much its bad that the wires aren't soldered to the mod chip because if they were, this never would have happened to me. Crappy wiring harnesses SUCK, there is a lot of pulling involved getting this to wrap around where you want it, so i think they should have just sent the chip out with wires soldered to it instead of using this harness/clip BS. I might just splice in same-guage wires to the wires i soldered to the cube and then solder the wires directly to the chip to prevent this from occuring again. Thanks to all who replied.

I cover my bases...
1)Xbox w/xecuter 2.6 solderless
2)Ps2 (slim) w/DMS4 Lite
3)Ps2 V7 w/DMS4 Lite and 200 Gig Maxtor HDD
4)GC w/qoob pro
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