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installation diagram for D2Ckey chip
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mikearsh
Newbie
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16. January 2008 @ 13:57 |
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Hey MMikeA,
I had two drives do the exact same thing. I have no idea what the fix is for that and if someone else could please help us out.. that would be great.
Symptoms.... after the mod... the drive has no power.. it can not eject and the error says please eject the drive... even though there is no drive in.
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mmikeA
Newbie
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16. January 2008 @ 16:58 |
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I've ohmed out connection from D2Ckey to IC on board, they are all connected with no visible shorts under a microscope. What should the resistance be at X? Where are the typical fuses located?
I presume if the install was not done correctly, the DVD drive should come back to life if I remove everything, otherwise I damaged the drive somehow. I'm trying to do as much troubleshooting now before I remove all my hard work.
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Newbie
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16. January 2008 @ 16:59 |
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Re:mikearsh,MMikeA
Can't help here. Is it brand new like 08 or older model? I got mine in Dec.07 and plan on installing the d2ckey as soon as it arrives. I don't want to have same problems. Would love to here the fix for this one!
Here Wii Go!
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mikearsh
Newbie
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16. January 2008 @ 17:39 |
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Mine was purchased before Xmas..... and i already burned thru 2 drives already.... 2 more on the way.... I have not found a fix thus far. The only fix i know it to buy another from Hong Kong.....
Problem is... after the mod... i have no power to the drive... it happened to both of them.... both were d2c. I bought a better iron and much smaller solder... so i will try again when they arrive thursday.
Will keep you posted.
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Newbie
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16. January 2008 @ 20:56 |
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The best of luck 3rd times a charm. Where did you order your drives from and how much are they? I might order a back up for future investment. I am going out and buying a 15watt or 12watt iron and some 2% silver .002 or 5mm solder with fine tip, flux and a magnifying glass. Practice on some old 10/100 cards I have. Wii hooo
Here Wii Go!
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ajam800
Newbie
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16. January 2008 @ 21:11 |
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In the video why does the guy put a small amount of solder above and below the small square hole on the PCB before attaching it to the chip?
Wouldn't that just increase the chances of a bridge once you start soldering the PCB onto the pins?
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mikearsh
Newbie
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16. January 2008 @ 21:58 |
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jadesign... I just ended up on ebay .. only place to find them is hong kong... they had the b for sell but now are selling the c....
And thats what i did.. i bought an extra and will use the b as normal and try to mod the c when it comes in. I bought .010 solder and theeee smallest iron and tip i could find... variable heat.
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mmikeA
Newbie
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17. January 2008 @ 18:36 |
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Finally got it working, not sure you have same issue I had. Dis-connect the L pin on D2Ckey, everything working fine.
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simoriah
Junior Member
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17. January 2008 @ 21:48 |
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Ah, yeah... forgot to mention...
IF you connect the L wire, you MUST bridge the proper jumper on the D2CKEY...
JP1 USA (NTSC-U)
JP2 Europe (PAL)
JP1&JP2 Japan (NTSC-J, I think)
You do NOT have to bridge the region override jumper(s) if you don't connect the L wire.
Incorrectly handling this will certainly cause the drive to crap out on you... until you disconnect L or fix the jumpers.
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westaj
Newbie
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17. January 2008 @ 22:21 |
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Wait, could somebody go over this again?
Is there some type of problem with L?
Ok, so my D2C mod chip is on order (still waiting). I have a US Wii (which is NTSC I assume), so that means that I put the jumper on JP1 so that I can play PAL and JPN games.
Are you saying that there may be a problem that is fixed by not soldering point "L" ?
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Newbie
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17. January 2008 @ 23:52 |
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So if I connect the L then I have to bridge J1, - But if I don't have the L connected then I don't have to do anything to the jumpers?
I have USA NTSC.
Here Wii Go!
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simoriah
Junior Member
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18. January 2008 @ 06:20 |
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Originally posted by westaj:
Wait, could somebody go over this again?
Is there some type of problem with L?
Ok, so my D2C mod chip is on order (still waiting). I have a US Wii (which is NTSC I assume), so that means that I put the jumper on JP1 so that I can play PAL and JPN games.
Are you saying that there may be a problem that is fixed by not soldering point "L" ?
Wire L is an optional connection. It's this connection that allows you to override the DVD region and play discs stamped for other regions. USA Wii owners can play NTSC-J or PAL games without problem (in most cases).
IF you connect L, you _MUST_ bridge JP1, JP2, or both (depending on what your original region is). This is something that a lot of boards aren't spelling out in detail. But this WILL cause your drive to stop working if you connect L and don't connect the bridges.
It's not a "problem" with L... it's just something that needs to be done. The chip was designed to work this way.
Again... Connect L.
Bridge JP1 for NTSC-USA
Bridge JP2 for PAL
Bridge JP1 and JP2 for NTSC-Japan
And for whoever asked for the resistance at X... it's 330ohm. I can dig up a diagram of where, exactly, this resistor is. It's on the bottom of the board. Just find the alternate install points (vias) and trace back from there to the resistor.
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Newbie
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23. January 2008 @ 02:55 |
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Ok got everything in but ran into some trouble! Question how do you get the solder from in between the chip posts (bridgeing them)? I was doing good till I got tomuch solder on and couldn't get it out. Killed the drive!Now goto buy new drive. Anyone now of any with D2C chip already installed? Kids are waiting to play! *@**!
Here Wii Go!
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HansiBB
Newbie
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23. January 2008 @ 03:43 |
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Originally posted by jadesign:
Ok got everything in but ran into some trouble! Question how do you get the solder from in between the chip posts (bridgeing them)? I was doing good till I got tomuch solder on and couldn't get it out. Killed the drive!Now goto buy new drive. Anyone now of any with D2C chip already installed? Kids are waiting to play! *@**!
You FLOOD the legs with MORE solder, the new solder will heat and melt the "problem" solder and all solder will end up in just one big blob of solder.
Use desoldering braid to easily suck all that solder away. Then just try again :-)
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craig4321
Newbie
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23. January 2008 @ 05:31 |
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Hi everyone, Just been reading some of the forums here, Ive just got a wii and I am signed up to a news group where I can download wii games, Do I need to install this chip to get that to work , if so where do I purchase one from ? im from the uk ?:-)
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mikearsh
Newbie
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23. January 2008 @ 08:46 |
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Hey HansiBB
I have destroyed 2 drives that way. I now own part of the HongKong plant that sells the drives. : ) This is now a mission... no longer a quest. I Just for the record... those dam wiikeys dont work so well.... i dont care what anyone says.... they dont line up all that great... and i have toasted many of them... i buy in bulk now.
I am actually entertaining the idea of just going straight wires.
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Newbie
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23. January 2008 @ 10:33 |
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Mikearsh
Hey you go! I just ordered my new drive.I also think the wires could be easyer for me. Not going to try for a while. Next time I am going to buy an extra drive and operate on it while the wii is still operational. Then will swap drives to see if works. To newbies! get an extra drive before you start you can always sell one after done if you don't destroy it.I live in TN anyone provide install services shoot me a PM. Thanks
Here Wii Go!
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mikearsh
Newbie
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23. January 2008 @ 11:17 |
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Jadesign,
You hit it right on the head.... Buy an extra drive or 3 before you attempt to mod. That way you will not be down for any length of time. Trust us.... I had to learn from experience. I purchased both the B and the C ... stock piled on the C. I still have NO drives modded to this point... and its not for the lack of trying.... My next attempt will be to see if i can soft-mod one.... and i have to wonder... are there any differences in the REGIONS,,,, for example since they read differently... are the Mods different?????
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simoriah
Junior Member
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23. January 2008 @ 11:19 |
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Just wondering... where are you guys getting your replacement drives from?
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mikearsh
Newbie
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23. January 2008 @ 13:07 |
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I was from Hong Kong.... and they actually do arrive very quickly... but within the last weeks.... mostly over seas. buy a few... you wont be sorry... believe me.
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DJC01
Junior Member
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23. January 2008 @ 18:01 |
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right so if i order one of ebay it will come ?
thanks in advance
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Samurai07
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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1. February 2008 @ 04:15 |
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ok id just like to point out that bridging the connections doesnt normally kill the drive , it shorts it , if you remove the dodgy solder normally it will kick back into life , i made this mistake when i did my first attempt on my sons wii , i used copper braid to remove all the solder and started agian , im not a regular/experienced solderer but with patience and good equipment it is possible to do. just remember for those new guys , dont load up the soldering iron to do the legs on the drive chip , the trick is to heat the legs and apply a small amount of solder to them , it will then melt and run into place. and a temp controlled fine soldering iron is a must imo.
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silverblu
Newbie
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1. February 2008 @ 15:54 |
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Originally posted by mikearsh:
I was from Hong Kong.... and they actually do arrive very quickly... but within the last weeks.... mostly over seas. buy a few... you wont be sorry... believe me.
Mikearsh,
From where/who/web address exactly in Hong Kong did you purchase your drive from?
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Samurai07
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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2. February 2008 @ 05:55 |
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best place ive found to get drives i was told is consolesource.com there prices are reasonable considering too.
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Samurai07
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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2. February 2008 @ 06:00 |
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jadesign , practise on the dead drive before you do the new one , also i suggest getting some copper wick/braid and try removing all the excess solder before you classify the old drive as dead , use a magnifying glass to help. unless u physically burn out the chip which is normally obvious , they quite often kick back into life. theres no major voltage involved on the mod so bridging the connections just puts the drive offline , the dead drives ive seen is when inexperienced solderers use a completely inadequite soldering iron with no temp control and fry the chip.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 2. February 2008 @ 06:01
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