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Magic III Mod Chip Questions
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Junior Member
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5. March 2006 @ 16:37 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hi all;

Got this mod chip for free, from my wife's uncle who doesn't feel like modding his ps2 anymore, he's had it for a while (years from what i understand).

I'm looking for a little more information on this mod chip, looking online all i'm finding is Magic 3.1 and is on a red pcb.

This is on a blue pcb and has the following printed on the PCB.

a smily face
MAGIC
III
AUTODETECTV0-V7

I'm just sorta looking for more information on this chip, will it work with current titles, things to be aware of when installing it etc.

I have a Version 1 PS2, I believe. It has 10 screws, SCPH-30001 Serial Starts with U1 and Date Code 0D

Any help would be great

Cheers,

Kali

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. March 2006 @ 16:38

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Senior Member
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5. March 2006 @ 21:05 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
the blue one is a magic 3.0, the red is a 3.1

I've installed at least 100 of them over the years and they work good for the most part. they are not dual layer compatible, they'll play original DVD-9s but they will not boot a backup dual layer, even if patched. they also have dual boot modes that require different methods of booting from standby depending on what type disk is in the console.

now for the not so thrilling news.........out of the 300+ PS2s i've modded less then 10 were V1-V3 consoles, I'd rather mod 100 V4 or later then a single V1-V3. they are a true pain in the ass due to the assembly of the stacked mobo. they require complete disassembly of all 4 boards just to attach a single wire.

if your not experienced at modding i do not recommend you attempt one of these versions, get you a later model, a V7 is the best for this chip.

EDIT: thought I'd add here, they also will not force NTSC/PAL format, they do make the disk region free but will not boot a PAL game in a NTSC console, and vise versa.

kc

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. March 2006 @ 21:08

Senior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 03:33 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
you might also want to add a switch on the power line (you'll have to make a little hole in your ps2 case) to manually turn the mod off as this mod doesn't automatically turn off after boot and some games were having freezing issues.

NTSC DNAS threads.
http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/5/198137 (my post with info on playing different region games online)
http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/291526
Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 04:50 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Awsome :| well sorta awsome, good information thanks.

Yeah I've never modd'ed before but am a decent enough solder(er) er. :|

typical that my ps2 would be a pita. I'm going to give it a shot none the less, ps2 only cost me 50 bucks used so i'm not going to sweat it if i toast it..

good experience i guess....plus it is my playgroud before i mod my xbox.

Thanks for all the great information

Cheers,

Kal
Senior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 05:21 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Quote:
you might also want to add a switch on the power line (you'll have to make a little hole in your ps2 case) to manually turn the mod off as this mod doesn't automatically turn off after boot and some games were having freezing issues.
umm this chip latches the BIOS of the PS2, if you install a switch and cut power after it boots you'll overheat and crash the processor. this is in my experience a bad recommendation YMMV. I've installed more of these chips in consoles then i ever care to remember and never had any freezing issues.


@Kali

an XBOX isn't a drop in the bucket to a PS2, the skills required to mod an XBOX are that of a 3 yrs old, it takes definite skills to mod PS2s, especially your version.

it's apples and oranges, anyone who can successfully mod a PS2 will have no problem at all, what so ever, with any XBOX mod but a person who has modded hundreds of XBOXs may never posses the skills to mod a PS2. I've done over 300 PS2s and and a couple dozen XBOXs with just about every combination of chip mobo version combo, try your skills out on the XBOX first, then you might attempt the PS2.

kc

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. March 2006 @ 05:22

Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 05:40 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
@KC;

thanks for the warning and really it is so noted, I've looked at the guts of both my ps2 and xbox and yes I agree, from what I've seen xbox modding much easier, problem is I paid full boat for my xbox and only 50 bills for my ps2, plus the xbox is more my wife's than mine. I'm not expect this to be easy, but I've always done the hard stuff first.

Let me assure you that she will stab 2 soldering irons in my eyes and shove the chip up my ass if I damaged her xbox.

I will let ya'll know how I fair...or don't fair for that matter or if you don't hear from me, it means I pooched it, and set myself a flame with a butane torch.

Looking at the install diagrams from the china magic homepage, it looks like 99% of the soldering is on the one side and one wire is soldered to backside, I'm assuming is the bottom of the board that you view from the top of the ps2.

Also, from what i've read everyone is recommending 11-15 watt irons for this, mine is a 20W/40W, obviously i'd be running at 20W. Any problems with a 20W and the ps2

Cheers,

Kali
Senior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 05:49 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
yeah all but a single wire go on the top of the mobo that you see as soon as you remove the bottom cover. that last wire isn't on the bottom, it's between the first two layers, and there are pins connecting all the layers together, they have to be desoldered to disassemble the mobos.

i use a 24 watt iron that has electronic temp control, temp is what your after here not wattage, you want a 600* to 700* regulation. the higher the wattage the faster you get to the temp of YOUR iron.

now with that said, i do not recommend the use of an overly high wattage rated iron due to the magnetic induction they give off, the high power can actually fry components with its induction.

kc
Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 06:02 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
KACK :(

That sucks a lot of ass. I've got my ps2 here in front of me, yeah I see what you mean..

I took those two big screws and the 4 little ones out of the bottom board thinking it will move but she don't.

Where are these pins i don't see em?

Cheers,

Kali
Senior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 06:05 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
they connect all the mobos together, 6 of them if memory serves me, they go straight from the bottom to the top of all boards, each pin is soldered top and bottom of each mobo. you'll soon see why most online so called pro modders refuse to mod V1-3s and give you all sorts of lies as to why they wont when truth is they dont have the ability to do so.........and it's not very profitable. i can mod a V4-V10 in about 1 hour, a V12-current V16 in about 40 min, a V1-3 takes 4+ hours.

EDIT: thought I'd add here too, there is a black ribbon cable on the top of the main board, remove it while your soldering, it's very easy to let the iron touch it when in an awkward situation and damage the cable.

kc

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. March 2006 @ 06:11

Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 07:18 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
So it looks like i'm pulling the whole mobo assembly out of the ps2? Correct me if i'm wrong...

the black cable that is the controller port/memory card ribbons correct? Easier to remove from the mobo or the controller port?

Cheers,

Kali
Senior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 07:25 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
yes the entire mobo assy has to be removed and then disassembled.

the mobo connection for the ribbon cable is a simple life the 'lid' of the socket and the cable slides out.

kc
Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 07:30 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
oops I just broke the brown tab off..

Shit.

Edit **

well ok, i still broke it, but it seems to snap back in, once Im done, little adhesive there to hold it in place.

Kali <-- n00b idiot lol, thats ok, we keep trying here

** more edits **
silver cables that look like they go to the dvd drive those have to come off as well yes?

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. March 2006 @ 07:41

Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 07:45 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
4 I think is the # of posts, at least so far

they are in line close to the heat sink?

these look like they run down throu all the pcb's
Senior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 07:53 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
yes the silver cables to the CD/DVD drive pull straight out, they are slip fit connector. if you only have 4 'posts' then you have V from my experience.

EDIT: glad to see your keeping a good attitude about it.

kc

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. March 2006 @ 07:54

Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 08:16 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
a V as in version 5?

or V for Vendetta :)

Cheers,

Kali
Senior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 08:44 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
that has a 3 after it (as in version 3 console) when i posted............humm at least it was supposed to :)

kc
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Junior Member
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6. March 2006 @ 18:07 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Not like it matters v1 or v3, still sucks ass to mod.

thanks for all your help, i'm going to spruce my desolder skills then tackle this beast...I'll keep this forum posted.

Cheers,

Kali
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