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Panasonic DMR-E85H error U99
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dksmall
Junior Member
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30. July 2011 @ 21:45 |
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Getting the guide fine in Phoenix, AZ with Cox.
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brewtoo
Newbie
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4. August 2011 @ 10:09 |
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Does anyone know which DVRs use the same power supply as the E85H??
Thanks!
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handyguy2
Junior Member
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4. August 2011 @ 11:53 |
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I'm in California, I haven't got a TVG feed for almost 2 years.
Any way to find out what our hosting TV station is?
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starrig
Junior Member
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4. August 2011 @ 13:22 |
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Originally posted by handyguy2:
I'm in California, I haven't got a TVG feed for almost 2 years.
Any way to find out what our hosting TV station is?
You might just call around. In many cities, it's the CBS affiliate. I found out by calling my PBS station, which had been the host, and they told me it had changed to the CBS station.
I'd ask for the engineering department, because they're the ones who handle it. Also, the service might be known as Gemstar, TVGOS, or [edit] TV Guide Onscreen.
When I've had outages, sometimes it's been the hosting station's issue. Sometimes it's been at Comcast, but the engineers at the hosting station know who to talk to at Comcast to get it fixed. At one point there was a Comcast issue that only affected my neighborhood. But they got to the bottom of it. (And they wouldn't have known if I hadn't contacted them.)
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. August 2011 @ 12:01
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dksmall
Junior Member
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4. August 2011 @ 14:51 |
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Use the debug screen and see if you have a host channel assigned. That would tell you which channel at least. Do you get a channel lineup, just no guide data?
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yankee10
Newbie
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5. August 2011 @ 10:07 |
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Originally posted by TForce1:
Originally posted by yankee10:
Originally posted by TForce1:
Hi all. I replaced C1413 (it was leaking) when the unit would not power up after the power went out. After about 30 minutes with it plugged in, it came back to life and has been ok for a while.
HOWEVER... just recently, the video out has gotten really bad. I opened it up and see:
C3024, C3026, C3029, and C3031 leaking. Does anyone know if these are involved in the video out circuit? They are all 6.3V, 1000uF, just like the one on the PS board. :(
C3024 feeds component video out Red from the video processor IC3001.
C3026 feeds component video out Blue from the video processor IC3001.
C3029 feeds Line out V1 and V2 from the video processor IC3001.
C3031 feeds video CPN Out1 and Out2 also from the video processor IC3001.
C3022 to C3031 all feed these and other video outputs from the video processor chip.
C3022, C3024, C3026, C3029, C3031 are all 6V 1000 uF capacitors and
C3023, C3025, C3027, C3028, C3030 are all 10V 100 uF capacitors and are generally paired with the 6V caps (connected at one end). E.g, C3022 and C3023 are connected, C3024 and C3025 are connected, etc.
Thanks for that. I replaced all the leaking caps, but could not get the unit to power up again. I am pretty sure I did the work correctly and put everything back in its proper place. When I replaced C1413 a couple months ago, the unit took about 90 minutes to come back on after plugging it back in to the wall. This time, it did not. I suspect another part in the PS failing, but can not see anything visually wrong with it.
Does anyone have an idea what a likely suspect part might be for this behavior?
I tried responding before--thought I had--but it never posted.
Does your unit come on at all? If not, check the fuse which is soldered on (F1101). If the unit gets some power, check the voltages coming out of the power supply board on connector P1502 (connected to the main PCB). Ground is on pins 5-9 and 14-15. Following are other voltages:
pin voltage
2 : 13v
3,4 : 5.8v
12,13 : 12v
16,17 : 5v
19,20 : 3.3v
21,22 : 1.8v
There is a power transformer on the power supply board (T1151) through which all the DC power is supplied. On the British version the power transformer has been a problem.
Check the fan. Make sure it is not clogged with dirt. It may not be on all the time even when the unit is operating normally. Make sure it isn't seized up. Also when operating, ensure that there is adequate air flow. Don't put anything directly on top of the unit and have a few inches of space behind it. Overheating is one thing that dries out capacitors and causes leaking. Having as many leaking capacitors as you did (especially ones not carrying power) makes me suspicious that heat is the main cause of your problems.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. August 2011 @ 10:10
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jhvance
Junior Member
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2. October 2011 @ 17:17 |
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As this thread seems to be the only one active that's related to the E85 and has touched before on TVGOS matters, I'll post a couple of queries I'd like to see whether anyone has any advice or comment -- having gotten the Panny back from warranty service a couple of years ago before the digital switchover, I never set it up again but now have that intent.
1. Anyone hooked their E85 up with a ChannelMaster CM-7000PAL and gotten the TVGOS functions through to the E85 for recording okay? Can you dub programs from the CM-7000PAL's hard drive to the E85, either directly to DVD or first to the HDD for editing?
2. What's the proper audio/video wiring setup to make bidirectional A/V transfers between these two pieces of equipment, and which component is the "master" of the two in the system?
3. Where does the 'G-link' gizmo get put in that configuration? At present, the CM-7000PAL is hooked into a Samsung LN32A550 LCD via HDMI cable, which would be nice to keep.
Thanks!
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vulcanusa
Member
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13. November 2011 @ 12:40 |
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I see Panasonic has announced a new blu-ray equivalent to our good ol' DMR-E85H. My wife is bugging me to obtain an ability to record in Hi-Def and it looks like the DMR-BW970 would do the trick. Any of my DMR-E85 buddies familiar with this model and where to buy one? BestBuy doesn't appear to carry them. According to an article I read (i.e. below) they were supposed to be available in September 2009! Perhaps they were never sold in the USA?
Thanks
--------------------
Panasonic just announced a new series of Diga DVR (Digital Video Recorders) that will be available in September.
Available in six models, these new DVRs feature a Blu-ray recorder, and a VHS player (for the DMR-BR670V) with a choice between 320GB / 500GB / 1TB / 2TB of HDD (a world?s first). These new video recorders are equipped with the latest generation of the UniPhier system LSI that integrates new AV data compression/decompression (codec) technology.
As for the high-end model, the DMR-BW970 and the successor of the DMR-BW930, you should be able to record up to 320hrs of video in MPEG-4 AVC/H.264 @ 12.9Mbps. This DVR also supporst Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby True HD, DTS-HD, can record on BD-RE / BD-R / DVD-RAM / DVD-R / DVD R DL / DVD-RW, and of course features HDMI output, SDHC card slot, the VIERA Link, and is DLNA.
http://en.akihabaranews.com/23895/home-...2tb-blu-ray-dvr
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 13. November 2011 @ 19:28
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scott16
Junior Member
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14. November 2011 @ 03:54 |
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They sell one on Amazon Japan (the 320GB model) for $1250 + shipping (I doubt you can buy it in the US though, usually Amazon Japan won't ship any consumer electronics at all to the US).
Anyway it's too expensive for me (I might buy one if it cost $600 or something),
but $1250 + shipping is definiely a bit too much for me to spend on a video recorder.
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jhvance
Junior Member
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21. November 2011 @ 16:52 |
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Regrettably, that notice from Panasonic was issued in 2009, and they've now discontinued those models entirely, per this Google translation from their Japan website:
http://translate.google.com/translate?h...%26prmd%3Dimvns
However, that webpage also seems to indicate they've since come out with an even newer line (the BZT series in the left column) with HDD capacities up to 3 TB (!), though I'm skeptical any will ever be made available for the US market. Alas, they don't appear to have DVD burning capability, but I can't read the Japanese (graphic image, not translated) so I can't be certain.
I for one would purchase one of these new models made for current American digital broadcast channels in a heartbeat or two if they had DVD burning capability, in order to replace the old DMR-E85H that's still working -- it's now hooked into a simple Dish TVPal converter box that successfully gets a few TV channels using the L3 inputs, not the CM-7000Pal as noted in the earlier posting because that combination effectively shuts off and supplants the CM-7000Pal's independent operating functions for recording in order to feed the tuner's signal to the Panny.
The DMR-E85H/DTVPal combination doesn't seem to pull in the TVGOS show listings, but since I know what channels it does receive and know what the regular schedule is for shows I'd like to record which are broadcast on those channels (or can look them up on Zap2It.com), I can record some things on it directly. I still use the CM-7000Pal (which seems to have much higher tuner sensitivity and pulls in a lot more channels than the DTVPal), and now have it hooked into the L1 inputs of the Panny to dub shows I want to burn to DVD, and this seems to work okay (though a bit cumbersome).
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. November 2011 @ 17:01
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starrig
Junior Member
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11. January 2012 @ 22:31 |
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We recently upgraded to an HD TV. We're still getting standard def cable service, or at least our current cable box is only SD capable. Does anyone know what happens if you hook the DMR-E85 to an HD cable box? Will that render it unusable? And are there any HD cable boxes that will support the TVGOS feed?
I'd like the HD option for direct viewing on the TV, but I don't want to fix what ain't broke if it'll hobble the Panasonic.
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Hrubyink
Newbie
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1. February 2012 @ 21:46 |
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Roger:
I followed your Snafu steps to the letter however after I did the firmware update I got the dreaded PLEASE WAIT message. Any ideas?? I know its not a power issue unless the capacitors failed right after the firmware update (Seems unlikely being that after I exchange and formated a different hard drive everything worked fine until switching to DVD then came the U99 error. Thats was when I loaded the update).
Thanks in advance.
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dksmall
Junior Member
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13. February 2012 @ 20:04 |
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As the months have gone on, my DVR crashes got more and more frequent. First once a month, then once a week, then almost daily. Most of the time the crash would occur during a recording, but once it happened when the DVR was off (standby). I would notice the machine was on when it shouldn't be and the screen would display the message "An error has occurred". The machine was also struggling to get guide data, with the host channel entry coming and going. Upon opening the machine I saw that C1413 and C1150 had burst. I don't think anyone had mentioned these failures before. After replacing both caps the DVR seems to be back to it's old self again. I replaced C1413 with the same value (1500uf), but I couldn't find a 56uf cap for C1150, so I went with a 47uf that measured 49uf out of circuit. The bad part was down to 20uf.
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dksmall
Junior Member
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13. February 2012 @ 20:10 |
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When I didn't get guide data for several weeks I contacted Rovi support and was told to check my cables, etc. and email them the diagnostic data from the debug screens. Then I was told to issue a command from the message screen, similar to the debug screen one, and send diag data again the next day. This command is "653274147" which apparently resets the DVR. I noticed it cleared any recordings I had scheduled and I suspect it will also clear guide data and the channel lineup. Might be helpful to someone trying to get the DVR reset and running again.
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vulcanusa
Member
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4. March 2012 @ 11:14 |
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I have had 3 DMR-E85Hs since the fall of 2005. I've had to replace two or more capacitors in all three machines over the years - sometimes more than once. In one case I had to replace several capacitors on the main board near the back and to the left (viewed from the front of the machine) of the DVD-RW.
I had to unplug many electronic devices recently because of some preplanned power utility work in my neighborhood. One of my DMR-E85Hs has behaved quite strangely - almost schizophrenically - after plugging it back in. There are audio output issues, remote issues, the machine spontaneously starting to record, and the like.
I attempted all of the tried and true reset button combos and procedures. Nothing has worked. <Sigh> I opened the machine expecting to find one or more blown capacitors and was surprised to find none. I removed the DVD-RW and those capacitors underneath the DVD-RW also looked fine. I realize some capacitors might look fine, but might otherwise have dried out or failed without bulging. However, I am wondering if the issue is something else. In particular, there is a button battery - the top of which is soldered to an L-shaped crane - on the main board underneath the DVD-RW. It's got a yellow band around the circular edge circumference. Most of us who have been around computers for awhile know it's rare for these button batteries to last beyond 5 years, but probably a max of 7 years or so. And <TaDa> these machines are circa 2004. So, I am wondering - even when powered from a wall socket - if a failure of the button battery might result in machine schizophrenia. Any insight on the part of the thread would be appreciated. Thanks.
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REPAIRMAN
Junior Member
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4. March 2012 @ 13:17 |
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Originally posted by vulcanusa:
I have had 3 DMR-E85Hs since the fall of 2005. I've had to replace two or more capacitors in all three machines over the years - sometimes more than once. In one case I had to replace several capacitors on the main board near the back and to the left (viewed from the front of the machine) of the DVD-RW.
I had to unplug many electronic devices recently because of some preplanned power utility work in my neighborhood. One of my DMR-E85Hs has behaved quite strangely - almost schizophrenically - after plugging it back in. There are audio output issues, remote issues, the machine spontaneously starting to record, and the like.
I attempted all of the tried and true reset button combos and procedures. Nothing has worked. <Sigh> I opened the machine expecting to find one or more blown capacitors and was surprised to find none. I removed the DVD-RW and those capacitors underneath the DVD-RW also looked fine. I realize some capacitors might look fine, but might otherwise have dried out or failed without bulging. However, I am wondering if the issue is something else. In particular, there is a button battery - the top of which is soldered to an L-shaped crane - on the main board underneath the DVD-RW. It's got a yellow band around the circular edge circumference. Most of us who have been around computers for awhile know it's rare for these button batteries to last beyond 5 years, but probably a max of 7 years or so. And <TaDa> these machines are circa 2004. So, I am wondering - even when powered from a wall socket - if a failure of the button battery might result in machine schizophrenia. Any insight on the part of the thread would be appreciated. Thanks.
The U.K. versions of this machine suffer badly from the capacitors that lie underneath the Digital pcb .Pull the drive out and you should find a small square board underneath sitting off the main board by a standoff plug.Remove this board and you may see a couple of caps that have blown. Usually the area around the caps has blackened with heat coming through the board from the regulators mounted on the underside.I can't remember the value of the caps but as a general rule if the value is an odd one go UP to the next preferred value but as space is limited beware of fitting a cap with a higher max working voltage . Size is important here as there is little room for fitting something bigger.These caps can give all sorts of problems as they smooth the supply to the digital pcb connected to the drive--this can give no/distorted sound, int recording/recording when the machine wants to/ loss of the tuner signals.They smooth the 1.2 and 1.8 volt lines to the main micro on the digital pcb and can cause the unit to go nuts and also cause the unit not to work for several hours after the ac mains has been disturbed.
Best Wishes
REPAIRMAN
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. March 2012 @ 13:31
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K2SMN
Junior Member
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4. March 2012 @ 13:33 |
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Vulcanusa:
Just a quick reply. If easy to do, replace the battery.
I agree that if it is always powered up, probably the battery isn't needed. However, the first time you power down, you'll probably lose your settings and clock, etc.
Now, I also highly reccommend using a UPS on these machines. This will protect them from both power glitches and short power losses.
Now, as to your specific problems, I can't say I have seen that kind of thing here. I have 5 of the dmr-e85h machines. I have changed the power supply caps on all of them and so far, so good. All running fine - and after 7 years of pretty constant use, a very impressive machine. If it wasn't for that Taiwan capacitor factory screwing up, these machines were very well made. I also have 4 of the dmr-eh50 machines. I had problems with two of them - the main voltage regulator went bad and needed to be replaced. Not sure, but they might have been damaged somehow while running on a UPS. The waveform of most of the cheaper UPS devices isn't very good. So, pick a good UPS if you have the newer models!
Good Luck!
Roger.
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starrig
Junior Member
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4. March 2012 @ 15:35 |
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Just a quick comment about flaky and seemingly random behavior. I've had that happen when one of my remotes was going bad. It would basically shoot out all kinds of stray signals until I took the batteries out.
I've gone through several remotes on this machine, and have started taking them apart and cleaning the contacts and repainting the rubber button surfaces with silver paint from a remote repair kit. It works, but any stray particles of conductor in there can cause havoc.
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dksmall
Junior Member
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4. March 2012 @ 19:09 |
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If you have a meter, measure the battery voltage, which should be close to 3.0 volts.
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vulcanusa
Member
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6. March 2012 @ 00:00 |
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Guys,
Thanks for your advice. This is the beauty of the Internet.
Repairman,
The US versions don't have a separate PCB under the hard drive - just the overall power supply board - unless you mean the power supply board itself. I have changed caps once or twice there.
There is a small elevated pcb - on stilts you might say - above the main board and immediately to the left of the DVD-RW drive. It is connected to a pcb on the bottom of the DVD-RW drive by a flex cable. I don't believe there are any caps underneath that pcb on stilts, but I'll check.
Roger,
Wow - from the originator of this great and long-lived thread - good to see you're still around. I realize I am grasping at straws with the button battery hypothesis, but without an obvious cap issue - I'm not sufficiently adept at electronics to go probing around (sorry dksmall). Yeah - I can remove a few caps which are obviously ruptured and solder new ones in their place, but not much else - I'm more of a software guy.
Starrig,
I have to admit I had not considered a flaky remote. Not sure how that would prevent audio from being output to my TV, but stranger things have happened. I'll check on that and post when I get a chance.
Thanks.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. March 2012 @ 00:08
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REPAIRMAN
Junior Member
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6. March 2012 @ 09:09 |
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Originally posted by vulcanusa:
Guys,
Thanks for your advice. This is the beauty of the Internet.
Repairman,
The US versions don't have a separate PCB under the hard drive - just the overall power supply board - unless you mean the power supply board itself. I have changed caps once or twice there.
There is a small elevated pcb - on stilts you might say - above the main board and immediately to the left of the DVD-RW drive. It is connected to a pcb on the bottom of the DVD-RW drive by a flex cable. I don't believe there are any caps underneath that pcb on stilts, but I'll check.
Roger,
Wow - from the originator of this great and long-lived thread - good to see you're still around. I realize I am grasping at straws with the button battery hypothesis, but without an obvious cap issue - I'm not sufficiently adept at electronics to go probing around (sorry dksmall). Yeah - I can remove a few caps which are obviously ruptured and solder new ones in their place, but not much else - I'm more of a software guy.
Starrig,
I have to admit I had not considered a flaky remote. Not sure how that would prevent audio from being output to my TV, but stranger things have happened. I'll check on that and post when I get a chance.
Thanks.
Hi ,I meant the dvd drive and not the hard drive.In the uk versions they have both dvd and hard drives in the one box and below the dvd drive is the digital pcb which controls the dvd drive but also a large amount of general signal processing occurs on that small board that stands off the main pcb.Under the digital pcb usually there are two caps which cause the digital pcb to go nuts, this causes allsorts of problems from no tuner/int recording/ no recording/unit not turning on from a power outage. I repaired lots of these recorders on behalf of Panasonic as a Warranty agent and the first thing I usually went for when one of these came in for repair was the capacitor drawer of the spares stores.I did see some variations on the main board layout where the digital pcb is mounted to the side of the dvd drive but as the space was short in the unit and the dvd drive type varied, then the digital board mostly was fitted underneath the dvd drive. The reason for this board, was that very little elecronics were contained on the drive and it was considered better practice to put most of the drive control on a seperate pcb mounted under the drive together with the main digital processor hence when the supply to this board is flaky the machine needs an appointment with a shrink!!
Best Wishes
Repairman
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. March 2012 @ 09:18
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jhvance
Junior Member
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6. March 2012 @ 09:53 |
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As the DMR-E85H only has an analog tuner, I have mine hooked into a Dish DTVPal converter via the L3 inputs. Although it doesn't actually receive the show listings from TVGOS properly, it does receive all of the 20+ broadcast channels I can get just fine. I can get all of the TVGOS information on the separate ChannelMaster CM7000 DVR I've got hooked into a different set of inputs on my TV or from other methods (I usually rely on zap2it.com since I live on the boundary of several broadcast markets and the local newspaper listings cover fewer than half of the channels I actually receive), and just manually program the Panny for whatever shows I might want to burn to a DVD eventually.
Last weekend, when I powered up the Panny to check on status of its recordings, I had no audio running from the broadcast feed of any TV channel coming through it to the TV, even though the last show it had recorded the day before played its audio just fine. So, either some new glitch had literally just occurred with the Panny (I've had the capacitor problem on two separate occasions before, with repairs done under its extended warranty that's now lapsed) or the new problem was somewhere in its input feed as the audio worked fine on all other equipment -- ruling out broadcasts from any particular station.
I unplugged the DTVPal's power cable from the back of its box for a few seconds, then re-inserted it and all the realtime audio functions through the DMR-E85H came back into their normal mode -- the DTVPal hadn't lost any of its connectivity with the Panny and still received all of the TV channels as its CM7000 cousin, so I didn't have to go through any of the setup process on it again. I'm not sure if the converter box power cable was just a bit loose or had developed a bit of oxidation on the contacts, but when I plugged it back in I made certain it was seated properly and that seems to have done the trick. I've had no further problems with it so far, anyway.
If you've got the Panny hooked into an ATSC converter box (or possibly an analog cable box?), try unplugging that source device from its power for perhaps 5 seconds then repower it and see if that brings the audio functions back into proper working condition. Since it worked for me, maybe you'll have similar luck!
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vulcanusa
Member
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6. March 2012 @ 10:17 |
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Repairman,
Thanks for the clarification - my mistake. Well, the behavior you're describing is certainly what I've been seeing, so I'll definitely take at look under that elevated pcb. I've never removed that component.
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REPAIRMAN
Junior Member
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6. March 2012 @ 14:31 |
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Originally posted by vulcanusa:
Repairman,
Thanks for the clarification - my mistake. Well, the behavior you're describing is certainly what I've been seeing, so I'll definitely take at look under that elevated pcb. I've never removed that component.
Be Carfull of the ribbon cables going to the dvd drive--they are a little fragile. most of the ribbon cable sockets have a locking device. Look at either end of the socket and you will find that there is a small protusion which when lifted with a very small jewlers scredriver it will lift and after undoing both ends the ribbon cable will come free.Make sure before doing this that you take note of the orientation of the cable--one side is silvery and the other side is coloured--either blue or green.Don`t put the cable back into the socket the wrong way round as it will kill either the dvd drive of the digital board.Place the cable back in the socket and push down both ends of the retainer at the same time to lock the cable back in.If you try to remove or insert the cable without releasing and refixing the lock then the cable will be damaged--i`ve been there and done that!
Repairman
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vulcanusa
Member
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6. March 2012 @ 15:22 |
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Will do.
I know I tried to lift that connector off one of my machines at one time in the past and noticed it didn't want to budge so I left it alone.
Thanks.
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