|
|
|
Need help getting started...
|
|
|
ih4553
Member
|
6. January 2012 @ 07:04 |
Link to this message
|
I'm VERY new to the Xbox 360. In fact I've only turned mine on twice now. I've been reading through all the stickys, but I still have questions. I know I'll get attacked for asking, but here goes...
1) Do I need to know what drive my console has? The reason I ask is because some things I've read say no, and some things I've read say yes. I've read iExtreme firmware will work with ALL current drives, so should I just download that and follow the guide, or do I still need to know which drive I have?
2) If I need to know which drive I have can someone recommend a good (BEGINNER) guide/video to how to find out?
3) I've softmodded Wii's before, and I find that pretty simple... in comparison how hard will softmodding my 360 be?
Thanks in advance for helping me get started. I have a feeling that once I have these questions answered I'll be able to complete the softmod on my own...
|
|
Advertisement
|
 |
|
|
|
peluynati
Senior Member
|
6. January 2012 @ 08:12 |
Link to this message
|
you need to let us know what kind of 360 you have, and if it is a slim then yes it matters what kind of drive you have, depending on the drive it the matter in which you have to mod it, you will need a connectivity kit of some kind, or have the correct chipset in your computer. There are a lot of different drives in 360's and each has its own method, find out the drive (once again that depends on the type of machine you have) and then maybe we can start you in the right direction.
|
AfterDawn Addict
|
6. January 2012 @ 09:30 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by ih4553:
2) If I need to know which drive I have can someone recommend a good (BEGINNER) guide/video to how to find out?
Get the Jungle Flasher tutorial from jungleflasher.net. It will tell you how to identify your drive (and everything else).
Originally posted by ih4553:
3) I've softmodded Wii's before, and I find that pretty simple... in comparison how hard will softmodding my 360 be?
Softmod (Simple):
Use a game disc to exploit a gamesave to hack the console's OS/dashboard. (Xbox1, Wii)
Use a hacked update file to uupdate the console to a hacked version. (PlayStation 3)
Hardmod (Difficult):
Solder a modchip to the console's motherboard or the drive's pcb to circumvent protection. (PS1, PS2, Gamecube, Xbox 360 JTAG, Xbox 360 RGH)
Flashing (Moderate):
Connect the console's disc drive to a PC in order to erase the drive's firmware and flash a more "flexible" firmware (like iXtreme) to the drive. (Xbox 360)
|
|
ih4553
Member
|
6. January 2012 @ 12:28 |
Link to this message
|
@ peluynati:
It's the 4gb model that came with the Kinect bundle. I just ordered it online mid December. Does that help?
@ eebeejay:
I tried downloading the jungle flasher guide but all the links are broken.
|
|
ih4553
Member
|
6. January 2012 @ 15:15 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by ih4553:
@ peluynati:
It's the 4gb model that came with the Kinect bundle. I just ordered it online mid December. Does that help?
@ eebeejay:
I tried downloading the jungle flasher guide but all the links are broken.
Ok, so I got the jungle flasher guide to download (finally!) and from reading it I guess I have to open the case to find out which drive I actually have.
Before I go ahead with that, my question is this... am I going to be able to flash it no matter which drive I have, or is there a chance I'll have a drive that I can't do anything with?
Basically all I want to be able to do is play backups from either a disc or preferably a hard drive. But I don't want to bother taking apart the case if there's a chance I'll have a drive I can't do anything with.
Thanks in advance!
|
|
peluynati
Senior Member
|
6. January 2012 @ 17:36 |
Link to this message
|
well you can open the disc tray and find out if its a liteon or hitachi, if its a hitachi drive then there is no need in opening the box, if its a liteon you have a decent chance of having one that can be modded, although there have been 2 models that are not at this time moddable, if you are lucky and have one that can be modded then you have 2 different types of chipsets, one requires soldering a switch, the other drilling a hole in one of the chips, either one is not as easy as flashing a wii or psp with files, you will have to roll up your sleeves and be prepared to render your device non-function-able, it may be cheaper and easier on you to find a local via craigslist that offers flashing service!
|
|
ih4553
Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 09:25 |
Link to this message
|
|
Ok, I bit the bullet and tore it apart... waste of time I think as it appears that I have a drive I can't do anything with! :(
I have the Liteon DG-165S with FW 1175. Everything I've read leads me to believe I'm screwed with no signs of any hope in the near future.
Can anyone confirm this?
|
Senior Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 10:04 |
Link to this message
|
Info on that drive: -
Quote:
Work on this drive is temporarily suspended while v3.0 is in progress for other drive models.
The original fw of the DG-16D5S 1175 drive was dumped several months ago, shortly after the drive first began appearing in retail units, but employs a new encryption that is different from the older DG-16D4S drive model. There will be no further progress on cfw for this drive until the encryption algorithm is reversed and the ofw decrypted.
Who knows if or when it'll become flashable? It could be anywhere from tomorrow to never, so if you want a 360 for flashing I would go and grab a second hand fat Jasper model as they're nice and easy to flash.
Click HERE for up to date 360 tutorials that may help you! |
|
ih4553
Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 10:30 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by funksoulb:
Info on that drive: -
Quote:
Work on this drive is temporarily suspended while v3.0 is in progress for other drive models.
The original fw of the DG-16D5S 1175 drive was dumped several months ago, shortly after the drive first began appearing in retail units, but employs a new encryption that is different from the older DG-16D4S drive model. There will be no further progress on cfw for this drive until the encryption algorithm is reversed and the ofw decrypted.
Who knows if or when it'll become flashable? It could be anywhere from tomorrow to never, so if you want a 360 for flashing I would go and grab a second hand fat Jasper model as they're nice and easy to flash.
I figured I was screwed. Thanks for the confirmation though.
My next question then is about chipped 360's. There's someone locally that is selling a chipped 360 Elite w/ 120gb hard drive. What should I know about it before I buy it? Will it work with my Kinect and all the games, or are there going to be limitations on it? I don't care about xbox live, I'll never use it for that, but is there anything else I should know about it, good or bad?
Thanks!
|
Senior Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 10:38 |
Link to this message
|
It depends what you mean by "chipped". There are mod-chips for the 360, but most of the time when people say "chipped", they mean a 360 that has had its DVD drive flashed.
I wrote a thread earlier on best practices for using a flashed 360 to play backup games: -
http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-152...irmware-921474/
So ideally, you either want a 360 that does not support AP2.5, or one that's flashed with LT+ 3.0 so that AP2.5 isn't an issue. If it does support AP2.5 and it's not flashed with LT+ 3.0 then you'll end up either flashing it yourself or paying someone else to update it, so in that case you might as well buy a 360 that hasn't been opened.
A flashed 360 does everything that a non-flashed one can do, so you've got no worries there.
Personally, I prefer to buy an unopened 360 and flash it myself, or at worst, to pay someone else to flash it. Then you know that it hasn't been banned from Live, it hasn't been tampered with or repaired, and you know exactly what it's flashed with as there are loads of different versions of custom firmware out there.
Click HERE for up to date 360 tutorials that may help you! |
|
ih4553
Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 10:49 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by funksoulb:
It depends what you mean by "chipped". There are mod-chips for the 360, but most of the time when people say "chipped", they mean a 360 that has had its DVD drive flashed.
I wrote a thread earlier on best practices for using a flashed 360 to play backup games: -
http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-152...irmware-921474/
So ideally, you either want a 360 that does not support AP2.5, or one that's flashed with LT+ 3.0 so that AP2.5 isn't an issue. If it does support AP2.5 and it's not flashed with LT+ 3.0 then you'll end up either flashing it yourself or paying someone else to update it, so in that case you might as well buy a 360 that hasn't been opened.
A flashed 360 does everything that a non-flashed one can do, so you've got no worries there.
Personally, I prefer to buy an unopened 360 and flash it myself, or at worst, to pay someone else to flash it. Then you know that it hasn't been banned from Live, it hasn't been tampered with or repaired, and you know exactly what it's flashed with as there are loads of different versions of custom firmware out there.
Ok, first I'll verify if it's actually chipped or if it's just had it's dvd drive flashed. If the drive has been flashed I'll try to find out what exactly it's been flashed with.
Now, when you say you prefer to buy an unopened 360, you still mean a used one, just one that hasn't been opened right? Because I'm assuming that any new console bought in stores now has the same drive mine has that I can't do anything with.
|
|
ih4553
Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 11:09 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by ih4553:
Originally posted by funksoulb:
It depends what you mean by "chipped". There are mod-chips for the 360, but most of the time when people say "chipped", they mean a 360 that has had its DVD drive flashed.
I wrote a thread earlier on best practices for using a flashed 360 to play backup games: -
http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-152...irmware-921474/
So ideally, you either want a 360 that does not support AP2.5, or one that's flashed with LT+ 3.0 so that AP2.5 isn't an issue. If it does support AP2.5 and it's not flashed with LT+ 3.0 then you'll end up either flashing it yourself or paying someone else to update it, so in that case you might as well buy a 360 that hasn't been opened.
A flashed 360 does everything that a non-flashed one can do, so you've got no worries there.
Personally, I prefer to buy an unopened 360 and flash it myself, or at worst, to pay someone else to flash it. Then you know that it hasn't been banned from Live, it hasn't been tampered with or repaired, and you know exactly what it's flashed with as there are loads of different versions of custom firmware out there.
Ok, first I'll verify if it's actually chipped or if it's just had it's dvd drive flashed. If the drive has been flashed I'll try to find out what exactly it's been flashed with.
Now, when you say you prefer to buy an unopened 360, you still mean a used one, just one that hasn't been opened right? Because I'm assuming that any new console bought in stores now has the same drive mine has that I can't do anything with.
His response was "I got from Colombia yes it's chipped" Any other questions I should be asking?
|
Senior Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 12:28 |
Link to this message
|
|
When I say "unopened" I just mean the console itself, not the packaging. It can be hard to tell, but you can be reasonably sure that the case hasn't been opened.
Perhaps the guy means "chipped" as in "flashed" too, lol. Ask him what mod-chip is in it. I don't know anything about them, but if he can't even tell you that then I would look elsewhere. If he does know what mod-chip is in it, I'd do a bit of Googling and find out if it's any good and if you'd run into problems trying to play the newer games which use new protection.
Click HERE for up to date 360 tutorials that may help you! |
|
ih4553
Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 12:31 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by funksoulb:
When I say "unopened" I just mean the console itself, not the packaging. It can be hard to tell, but you can be reasonably sure that the case hasn't been opened.
Perhaps the guy means "chipped" as in "flashed" too, lol. Ask him what mod-chip is in it. I don't know anything about them, but if he can't even tell you that then I would look elsewhere. If he does know what mod-chip is in it, I'd do a bit of Googling and find out if it's any good and if you'd run into problems trying to play the newer games which use new protection.
I asked and he has no idea. I guess I'll look around for another one. Is there a better version to look for? What should I be looking at to make it as easy as possible for myself?
|
Senior Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 12:50 |
Link to this message
|
What you want is an old style "Jasper" 360. "Jasper" refers to the internal hardware revision. The older models pre-Jasper are the ones that are prone to getting the RROD, with the first 2 revisions, "Xenon" and "Zephyr" being the worst by far.
The Jaspers first came out in September 2008 and they come with a 150 Watt power supply. If you ask a seller what the manufacture date of the console is and what the Wattage of the power supply is, you can be pretty certain of whether you're getting a Jasper or not.
Click HERE for up to date 360 tutorials that may help you! |
|
ih4553
Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 12:54 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by funksoulb:
What you want is an old style "Jasper" 360. "Jasper" refers to the internal hardware revision. The older models pre-Jasper are the ones that are prone to getting the RROD, with the first 2 revisions, "Xenon" and "Zephyr" being the worst by far.
The Jaspers first came out in September 2008 and they come with a 150 Watt power supply. If you ask a seller what the manufacture date of the console is and what the Wattage of the power supply is, you can be pretty certain of whether you're getting a Jasper or not.
Awesome... thank you very much for your help!!
|
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
Senior Member
|
7. January 2012 @ 12:58 |
Link to this message
|
|
No problem.
The manufacture date is on the back of the console. The Wattage of the PSU is written on the label that's on the bottom of the PSU. Just in case a seller asks......
Click HERE for up to date 360 tutorials that may help you! |
|
