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Wagner HT 1000
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TonyJer
Member
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24. January 2011 @ 15:01 |
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Hi
Am resigned to doing reflow using heat gun. All the tuts show Wagner but these are not readily available on this side of the pond. Can I obtain another model (Black and Decker for instance) and just tweak it to the two settings on the Wagner (750 and 1000).
Assuming I still do the 1 minute low on the back of the MB and the 4 mins high on the chips.
Many thanks
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Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
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24. January 2011 @ 16:26 |
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Heatgun works for a while. You need flux too
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TonyJer
Member
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25. January 2011 @ 02:41 |
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Originally posted by Modking30:
Heatgun works for a while. You need flux too
Thanks
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Senior Member
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25. January 2011 @ 03:33 |
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Originally posted by TonyJer:
Originally posted by Modking30:
Heatgun works for a while. You need flux too
Thanks
If you don't have flux readily available, make sure you at least clean under the chips with acetone/or 90% isopropyl alcohol. I have similar results, flux or no flux.
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Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
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25. January 2011 @ 07:25 |
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I have better luck when using flux and most people here will recommend it.
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TonyJer
Member
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25. January 2011 @ 13:56 |
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Originally posted by Modking30:
I have better luck when using flux and most people here will recommend it.
Thanks again. I have regular soldering flux paste as that was all I could get. It looks like thick white cream with a brush. Should that do.
Finally would you just apply on the reverse under the GPU and RAM chips?
Many thanks "again again"
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Member
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25. January 2011 @ 14:05 |
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Originally posted by TonyJer:
Originally posted by Modking30:
I have better luck when using flux and most people here will recommend it.
Thanks again. I have regular soldering flux paste as that was all I could get. It looks like thick white cream with a brush. Should that do.
Finally would you just apply on the reverse under the GPU and RAM chips?
Many thanks "again again"
You will need liquid flux to squirt a small amount under the chips you wanna reflow.
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TonyJer
Member
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25. January 2011 @ 14:58 |
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Thanks
Will struggle to find that but I'll try. I've now removed the screws and cleaned up the GPU and CPU and noticed two strange things:
There was some black residue on one of the RAM chips which I hadn't noticed before. Does that suggest they are overheating etc?
Also on the back of the MB are four small pads obviously protecting the backs of four small chips. I obviously need to remove these before heating??
Many thanks again, again and again.
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peluynati
Senior Member
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26. January 2011 @ 00:47 |
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yes remove those, they are also ram chips underneath, if you do not have kester no clean flux i was suggest not using anything you do not want to corrode the board, if this is the first reflow, you are probably ok without it.
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TonyJer
Member
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26. January 2011 @ 02:39 |
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Originally posted by peluynati:
yes remove those, they are also ram chips underneath, if you do not have kester no clean flux i was suggest not using anything you do not want to corrode the board, if this is the first reflow, you are probably ok without it.
Hi
Have now ordered Kester No Clean Flux. Do I just squirt onto the chips that will be exposed when I take the pads off?
Also what sort of temperatures do I need to generate fron and back? (Just want to get the right gun)
Many thanks again
Tony
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peluynati
Senior Member
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26. January 2011 @ 08:14 |
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the flux is liquid, you drop it underneath the chips not on top of them, just go around each edge and put a drop if you see if running out the other side then you have enough do all the ram on the top the gpu the cpu the hanna, you most likely do not need to do the chips on the back, you need to heat the back up to around 400 degree's, if you follow wooleys guide you will be ok, keep your gun away from capacitors, or to be safe you may want to cover them with aluminum foil, if you do it just the way wooley shows on the video you will be fine. the safe heat temperature for most of the chips is 300c, that is why wooley tells you to move around the board and not spend to much time on one spot. just do the video.
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TonyJer
Member
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26. January 2011 @ 08:23 |
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Many thanks again Pelyunati. I've looked at Wooley's guide but it doesn't cover the flux bit so thanks for that. Can I also assume that the heat setting for the front of the MB should be hotter than the 400 degrees? It's just that he refers to low and high settings for front and back and I want to be specific.
Final dumb question. My MB has little plastic moulds around the GPU and CPU. Will these be adversely affected by the heat?
Many thanks once more.
Tony
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26. January 2011 @ 08:30 |
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Originally posted by TonyJer:
Many thanks again Pelyunati. I've looked at Wooley's guide but it doesn't cover the flux bit so thanks for that. Can I also assume that the heat setting for the front of the MB should be hotter than the 400 degrees? It's just that he refers to low and high settings for front and back and I want to be specific.
Final dumb question. My MB has little plastic moulds around the GPU and CPU. Will these be adversely affected by the heat?
Many thanks once more.
Tony
I have to be honest, when I was researching the heatgun method, I was like you looking for exact temps etc, I bought a gun with 400 High & 200 low. I do an overall on low for about a min, bottom for 2 mins on high, top for 4 mins on high. This is how Ive done them before w00ly did his guide and I get about 90% success rate.
In regards to what looks like plastic on the sides of your GPU & CPU, dont worry about them, they dont melt. Just get the flux around these.
Just make sure you cover your caps, DVD sata & power connections and your sync/eject button any you'll be fine.
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TonyJer
Member
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26. January 2011 @ 13:43 |
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Many thanks for these responses. I'll just buy a basic two setting gun. The Wooley vid recommends low for the back and high for the front so I guess I'll follow that.
However, someone earlier suggested only putting flux underneath the bottom RAM chips so I would be grateful for clarification on that. In any event there doesn't seem to be any space to get the flux under the RAM chips top or bottom!
Final question is would folk advise reverting back to the X Clamp or the screws I had been using. If the latter what washer and torque setting would you recommend.
No more questions I promise. Going to do it tomorrow!
Many thanks for your time.
Tony
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peluynati
Senior Member
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26. January 2011 @ 14:14 |
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screws do nothing for it, if it was mine i would put the xclamps back on it, do not waste your time putting the flux on the bottom ram chips. the kester that i told you is liquid and usually comes with an eye dropper just tilt the board and put a few drops on the edge it will run under the chips on its own.
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TonyJer
Member
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26. January 2011 @ 16:00 |
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Originally posted by peluynati:
screws do nothing for it, if it was mine i would put the xclamps back on it, do not waste your time putting the flux on the bottom ram chips. the kester that i told you is liquid and usually comes with an eye dropper just tilt the board and put a few drops on the edge it will run under the chips on its own.
Thanks again. If you view the attached image of my GPU you will the plastic bits I was referring to. Someone else has referred to these as chims and said they will melt during the reflow! Is that right?
http://i56.tinypic.com/2s0e6og.jpg[/IMG]
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peluynati
Senior Member
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26. January 2011 @ 16:12 |
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i have never had any of them melt and they are not chims they are glue, i have heard that you should removed those before reflowing to allow the chip to settle, but i have never done it myself. it makes good sense though if you think about it.
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TonyJer
Member
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26. January 2011 @ 17:55 |
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Originally posted by peluynati:
i have never had any of them melt and they are not chims they are glue, i have heard that you should removed those before reflowing to allow the chip to settle, but i have never done it myself. it makes good sense though if you think about it.
Thanks
Think I'll just leave em.
What the hell are chims for God's sake?
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TonyJer
Member
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27. January 2011 @ 08:25 |
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Hi again
Have now bought a cheap hot air gun whihc does 400 and 600 C (752 and 1152 F). I guess I should be able to follow Wooley's tutorial to the letter now as these would have been the temps generated by the Wagner 1000 he was using.
Many thanks
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peluynati
Senior Member
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27. January 2011 @ 08:36 |
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oh by the way a "chim" is actually a shim, it it something used to fill a void to add support.
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TonyJer
Member
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27. January 2011 @ 13:01 |
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Many thanks for the clarification. Does the 400 and 600 C seems right for front n'back?(one min and 4 min as per Wooley video)
Many thanks again
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peluynati
Senior Member
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27. January 2011 @ 16:48 |
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yes that would be correct just make sure not to stay in one place too long and be sure to hold the proper distance from the board.
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Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
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27. January 2011 @ 17:19 |
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If you buy the team X kit, it comes with all you need.
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TonyJer
Member
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29. January 2011 @ 13:05 |
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Hi
Just reflowed and it works so many thanks for that. The only issue I had was that the Kester flux was in a pen type dispenser with a tiny brush that you have to depress to release the flux. It made it difficult to get the flux in the gaps on the CPU and GPU etc.
Couldn't seem to find the eye dropper sort on E Bay. Is it another thing that's only available Stateside??
What's the average time that this sort of repair holds for? (two days??)
Thanks again. Much appreciated.
Tony
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peluynati
Senior Member
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29. January 2011 @ 13:36 |
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if you followed the guide it could last for a long time, its obviously not a professional reflow, but it does a pretty good job, as long as whatever was causing the problem got fixed it will most likely last a pretty long time.
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![http://i56.tinypic.com/2s0e6og.jpg[/IMG]](http://i56.tinypic.com/2s0e6og.jpg[/IMG]){kind=link}