Not been keeping up with current events very much due to work relationship and general life stuff. I have just read that you can flash the slim now assuming you have lite-on DG-16D4S FW 9504. Well I do, atleast thats what the sticker says on the drive. I have seen posts that say reading the drive in jungleflasher is the only way to be sure.
Anyway I wanted to check that I could do the flash with just a PC with a sata port and a RROD fat 360 to power the slim drive rather then buying a X360usb pro or ck3lite?
About to go try it out, my chipset is compatable I think, managed to flash a bunch of Hitchi and Samsung drives from the fat 360's with the PC I'm going to use.
It's always safer and better to invest ina 6421via card and an xtractor. You will be flashing more than once to stay up to date. Do yourself a favor and at least invest in an xtractor to power and eject the drive. Makes jobs much easier. Plus, if you run into a Liteon, you'll need one anyway. Just my 2cents
It might be a good idea to dump that drive ASAP too since the new Xbox live dashboard is coming out in the next few days and it may carry with it some final changes that weren't expected with the BETA release that was made public. That way you have your stock firmware ready to go as backup just in case. You'll probably have to reflash your drive here soon, so you'll be ahead of the curve with your original firmware.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
