ok i am testing a bad ds lite with a good ds lite with matching boards. the two little metal prongs that the battery butts up against, the bad ds gives an ohm reading of 1.67 and the good gives a reading of 70.03k with no batteries in. i dont know alot about ohms but i figured they should have matching numbers eihter way. the bad ds will not turn at all no lights when you plug a charger in with or without a battery it gets a red light and then the light turns off, thats the only thing this ds will do. just wondering if this could be the problem and if so what is this part so i can replace it. thansk
1. Although it's a test and you have identified that one is good and one is bad, that's about all that you know.
1.67 ohms is almost a dead short. Most likely something in a Voltage Regulation or charging system has fried.
As I stated in the other post, without SMT soldering equipment (specialized equipment for the removal/replacement of surface mount components) and a stock of parts, you are SOL.
"i dont know alot about ohms. . . "
Then all you're doing is "cherry picking" without parts or the necessary equipment.
Unless you have a lot of time to waste, IMHO, give it up.
ok but i am a stay at home mom and i do have soldering equipment so i have time. i have soldered a power switch on one ds and also replaced both screens and had to solder the speakers on the new one so i can take my time and do it, i just dont know the name of that part and i will continue testing to see if more is wrong. thanks for the help even though you may think its a lost cause, i have nothing better to do with my spare time during the week.
If you don't have a schematic then what you would have to do is start replacing components starting backwards from the battery terminals.
Your first roadblock is not having a schematic.
Roadblock #2 is parts. Unless you can identify the integrated Circuits (ICs) one by one and find a source that will sell them individually, it's "game over".
Roadblock #3 is SMT soldering equipment. You cannot solder a SMT IC the same way as you can a part with leads. It can be done with a heatgun with a VERY FINE nozzle, but there is more of a chance of destroying an adjacent component than anything else.
I'm not making my recommendation out of ignorance. I have disassembled/repaired over 50 NDS/NDSL (with about an 85% success rate) and I know what is worth my time to pursue and what isn't.
