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HDMI to DVI cable worth it?
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DamonEB
Newbie
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23. October 2005 @ 06:48 |
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I am a technician and service Sony, Hitachi, Mitsubishi, Toshiba, and other HDTV units.
The REAL DEAL about HDMI/DVI inputs versus the Component inputs is this:
HDMI/DVI inputs transfer information DIGITALLY to your TV thus you get no distortion of the signal from any source or from your TV. IT's designed to go to the FINAL video processor that drive the output circuits...but component video has a couple more stages of processing which DOES INTRODUCE minor distortion...which is soooo minor normal human beings wouldn't notice....BUT a VIDEOPHILE would.
Is HDMI/DVI cables worth IT? Maybe not, but if you have even a cheap $30 HDMI cable it is WORTHWHILE...because I have seen the DVI cables go for $100 last year....that is NOT worth it. So be happy you got those cables for $30. And if you're wondering, digital information tranfers don't require flat-topped "ones and zeroes" like Monster would like you to believe...their cabling would be an asset if the DVD/Satellite unit was located 100 feet away from the display (in cable length).
So keep the cables, you invested $30 into...
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DamonEB
Newbie
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23. October 2005 @ 07:47 |
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Gear 59,
Subwoofer Hum is caused by open ground loops. Which means, if you have an RCA cable with a broken shield wire it will Hum, swap it with another one for testing. Also, if your amp OR Subwoofer has a 3 prong power cord and the other doesn't....break off the 3rd prong (for testing just get one of those 3prong to 2prong adaptors at Lowe's).
Third, if you turn off your amp and the subwoofer is still powered up, that long RCA cable WILL act as an antenna and pick up hum from the house wiring. Power down the subwoofer...or get him a CLAPPER for Christmas.
LOYOLA,
Panasonic DVI/HDMI signals are DIGITAL..that means that the original settings that the Movie producers set up is what you see...it is a VIRGIN signal..Sure it looks paler. That's their setup.
BUT you can make SOME adjustments, and here is how to step through the SETTINGS...
Do your Brightness FIRST, it sets up the Black level of the signal,
Find a person wearing dark clothing, adjust the Black Level to the point where there is no Detail in the Black Clothing. Then bring it up enough to see detail in the Black Clothing...Lapels, pockets, pinstripes, you want to see those.
Then its the Contrast, Contrast sets the Amplification Level of the Signal, turning it up to maximum makes whites whiter, and midtones more intense.
Lastly, set your color, even if you have to MAX them out.
The broadcaster's NTSC settings are normally Brightness set to 1/2 (50%) the contrast is 3/4 to all the way up (75% to 100%) and color is normally 1/2 (50%)
LASTLY, if you ARE WILLING to PAY...
You can contact a PANASONIC AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER in your area to research and verify that there are internal adjustments for COLOR INTENSITY dedicated to the DVI inputs. Those adjustments are to Panasonic's ATSC specifications and most Service Centers do not want to change those specs...and they would be a pain to change, so expect about $150 to $250 labor if you find someone willing to adjust it the way you want it to be.
PS I'm Panasonic authorized.....and I've seen the paler picture that you are talking about on other panasonic units...that's just the way the movie was recorded.
Damon Brunger
Fort Wayne, IND.
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diabolos
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23. October 2005 @ 16:48 |
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So are you saying that the Panasonics are special or should this behavior reproduce itself on other tv sets while using a digital connection?
I'm unshure what you mean by this statment:
Quote:
And if you're wondering, digital information tranfers don't require flat-topped "ones and zeroes" like Monster would like you to believe...
Do you mean that the digital signal doesn't have to be that strong in order to maintain a high level of quality?
Ced
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DamonEB
Newbie
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24. October 2005 @ 03:43 |
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Depends on what the designers want from their brand.
Signal strength is only required to TRANSMIT...all other qualities are inherent to Digital. The TV only needs to distinguish a 1 or a 0 to process.
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BIGBOB22
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2. November 2005 @ 09:53 |
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Everyone: DVI vs HDMI and High Quality Cables:
DVI/HDMI is always superior to analog componant if both the display and DVD player or STB (set top box) have properly implemented DVI or HDMI inputs/outputs, which is NOT always the case! PROPERLY IMPLEMENTED is the key.
As far as expensive cables go, I feel it is pretty simple. If you can hear or see a difference, then buy the best that you can afford, if not, don't waste your money!
Also, the $100.00 or so Monster Cable products that are being mentioned as expensive, are the LOW END of their line. Top Monster Cable Audio/Video cables are $1000.00, $2000.00 and more for a one (1) meter audio pair or video cable and over $3500.00 for speaker cables!
Over the years,I have been very lucky to have been able to purchase (at dealer cost) and/or win (sales contests) an over the top collection of Audio/Video/Power cables worth over $150,000.00 at retail! They include models from StraightWire, Monster Cable, XLO, Nordost, Vampwire, Wireworld, Tributaries, Kimber Cable, Madrigal, Audio Research, Mark Levinson, Camelot Tech. and many others.
Many people would say that the $15,000.00 (thats not a typo, $15,000.00) cost of an eight (8) foot pair of Kimber Cable BLACK PEARL speaker cables is just plain stupid... However, I can tell you that I use my pair with B&W Siver Seven ($9000.00) monitor speakers, powered by Mark Levinson 20.6 ($12,000) monoblock power amps, driven by a Mark Levinson No. 32 ($15,995) reference preamp, connected to a Mark Levinson 30.6/31.5 ($26,000) DA converter/CD transport setup using over $30,000 worth of interconnects! If I was to substitute, cheap $500.00 speaker cables in this setup, just about all of you would hear a big difference! (So my speaker cables cost $6,000 more than the speakers they connect!)So it is relative...
They most important thing is, have fun. Try new things. Put your credit card down and take a $500.00 or $1000.00 video cable home and try it out. (Most independent stores will allow a 10 or 14 day trial period.) That way you will have a frame of reference regarding cheap cables and good cables in your system. Then when you are able to afford it, go back to the store and buy the best you can afford that makes a difference in your system.
Good Luck BOB
FASTEST OFFSHORE BOAT IN 1982 "LOVE IT" WORLD RECORD AT 103 MPH! |
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diabolos
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2. November 2005 @ 10:14 |
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The thing is those $100 monster cables don't cost nearly $100. I don't think the high-end cables are massproduced are they?
BIGBOB22, do you have any advice for how much someone should spend on cables for thier system on average? I have found that quality cable is important and that most of the time equipment will preform better when connected with quality hook-ups, nomatter if the equipment is cheap or expensive.
Do you have a best cable manufacture and/or line of cables that you think is the best?
Ced
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gear79
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2. November 2005 @ 11:43 |
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i'd personally say, unless you have high end equipment, then decent priced cables will not heed much difference. now what Bigbob22 has spent on his stuff is just flat out ridiculous (my system alone is not worth as much as them speaker wires he claims) but it sounds just as good to me as it did in the store where i bought them from. that being said, where i bought my receiver from, its a yammy rx-v1500 (retails for about 850, but i got it for 600 even) even they did not run top of the line cables, and they are the highest retailer here where i live. i never imagined (originating this thread) that it would be more of an off topic, but similiar topic, then what i expected. none the less, i do agree what bigbob says, buy what you can afford.
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BIGBOB22
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3. November 2005 @ 08:04 |
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Diobolos:
A number long quoted as a rough rule of thumb is 10-15% for cables relative to the cost of the system. So if you have $5000.00 invested in your AV System, 500.00 - 750.00 would be a good starting point.
I would by no means limit myself to this arbitrary number. If you try a $250.00 video cable or $500.00 interconnect and see or hear a worthwhile improvement, by all means purchase them!
I feel that most high quality DVI/HDMI cables are about the same in short lengths. If you are trying use long runs to a projector, I would go with the best I could afford.
I have been to Monster Cable in SF twice and it is a very impressive operation. Things have changed quite a bit in the last 5-7 years. As late as 1998, the cables where still made to order, that is, when a dealer placed an order for x number of I-400 2 Meter interconnects, an order sheet went to the floor, the bulk wire was cut and placed in bundles and then into bins delivered to a worker at a terminating work station (I stood and watched as a women grabbed a bundle of 12 wires, terminated them on one side with RCA's, turned the bundle around, repeated same in just a few minutes...very skilled with a solder gun), the cables were finished, sent to a packing area, bubble packed, boxed, and shipped out UPS. It was that basic. Later they built a building so they could begin to stock each model and ship from inventory. So in a sense, none of their cables are mass produced, if you mean by mass produced, bulit on a giant automated line of some type.
All High End Cables are built and tested by hand by very skilled workers. Some top firms (Kimber Cable, StraightWire, and others) manufacture the cable itself to very demanding specs, spool it, and then assemble the product, all in house! Some will even custom imprint your frims name on the jacket of the wire along with foot markers.
It is very dfficult to pick one cable brand because it depends on the equipment. The better the quipment, the more sensitive it is to different types of cables. A $7500.00 set of Nordost speaker cables my work great with a set of Audio Research Reference 610 ($40,000 per pair)monoblock tube power amps driving a pair of Genesis 201 speakers ($40,000), but change to a set of Mark Levinson No. 33H solid state amps ($20,000) and they could sound very poor, even though all the equipment mentioned is absolutly state of the art. (Just an example)
With that said,for normal price levels of equipment, I would look at StraightWire (Level II or III), Monster Cable (M 500 or 1000 for Video), Kimber Cable (PBJ), and XLO to name a few.
You are on the money when you say that equipment in general, regardless of cost, will benefit from higher quality wires. No doubt about it. Anyone can prove this to themselves, providing they have good hearing and/or vision in order to make the evaluation.
I have sold many systems where the customer was ready to spend $100,000 plus, but thought that $15,000 for cables was stupid. I simply tell the customer the following, "It will be a complete waste of your money to buy state of the art gear and then wreak the perfomance by using cheap cables, I recommend that you buy a system in the $10,000 range and use cheap cables because you will get the same basic performance as the $100,000 system with cheap cables for $90,000 less." Most of them get the point, and since they know I sell on commission, why would I say that if it was not true and make so much less money on the sale!
Like I said before, if you can't tell the difference, don't waste your money.
BOB
FASTEST OFFSHORE BOAT IN 1982 "LOVE IT" WORLD RECORD AT 103 MPH!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. November 2005 @ 09:11
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gear79
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3. November 2005 @ 09:36 |
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so let me ask you this BIGBOB22............
how long have you been selling high end a/v equipment?
how long did it take you to build your system?
what kind of money do you make? (sounds odd, to read what you paid for your equipment, yet your here on ad)
i've read multiple forums before, have seen guys like you in there, prompting that you know all, and it really gets old. i mean no disrespect, if you say what you say you have, then thats great for you. i can only take your word for it, as well as the rest that read this thread. unfortunately........... i am willing to bet money, that no member reading this thread will just run out and drop down (at the very least)......... 500 bucks on some audio/video cables. i know i would not. i'd say my system is in the $2,000 - $2,500 range, not including my tv, just sound and cables........ sure, i dont have the low end crap (junk that comes supplied with a/v equip. or wal mart cables) but i did buy name brand cables from best buy and circuit city. sure, my system is not the greatest in the world, but it works for me. i am happy with it, and all who have viewed and heard my system, they give me compliments........ it sounds better then the movies, felt like i was in the movie, the picture is more clear then the movies............ and so on, you get my point.
i'd say i'd be crazy to have to spend all that money for stuff like you say you have, and even if i did spend money like that, i'd be divorced i am sure. unless you have an unlimited income or beyond donal trump.......... then go for it, but me, i will stick to my home theater set up.
just what you say you have......... it must be 500 times better then a movie theater........ i bet you replace windows often then !!! ???
this is just my 2 cents......... not a flame war, or even a knock against you......
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diabolos
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3. November 2005 @ 15:35 |
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BIGBOB22
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4. November 2005 @ 06:25 |
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gear79/everyone:
The purpose of listing one of my systems (I listed prices as I assumed most people would not know the Brands/Models) as an example in the debate "Are expensive cables worth it, etc?" was to simply show that I have the state of the art equipment necessary to be in a position to evaluate and comment on any cables available from $.99 to $15,000.00 or more, something that most people can not do. The intent was not to brag, or be a "know it all" (I learn something new everyday, thats why I look at forums).
To answer your questions; I have been involved with High End Audio/Video equipment for over 30 years. I have attended 38 CES Shows, 8 Stereophile Shows, 7 CEDIA Shows (CEDIA Memeber), and had numerious factory tranings(Mark Levinson, Proceed, Monster Cable to name a few). It has taken me these 30 years to build the systems I now enjoy.
I never pay retail, most often purchase at "rep or display price" which is approximately 20-25% off of dealer cost. So if a product costs $2000.00, dealer might be $1100.00 or so, less 25% for a total cost to me of may $750 or $800.00 with no tax or shipping. I also receive a number of products at "no charge" to evaluate (alot of cables and power products), purchase products on the last day of the CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in Las Vegas saving the company the cost of packing and shipping display models back to the factory sometimes at pennies on the dollar and also win approximately $25,000-$40,000 per year in sales contests.
I now operate my own business, but to give you an idea of sales/income at the last retailer I worked for (an independant speciality retailer), In the month of December, the store, with five (5) salesman sold $693,000.00 total for the month. Of that amount, I sold $441,000 on just two (2) major sales (one of which was a houseboat system that totaled over $242,000.00, the other, a home theater that ran $140,000 equipment/install only), and whatever I happened to ring up off the sales floor. My total commission for the month was $20,995.00 and NHT (Now Hear This) had a sales contest and I won over $10,000 in product from just that one company.
My purpose in these forums is learn and help others learn. I have strong opinions, based on first hand experience. BOB
FASTEST OFFSHORE BOAT IN 1982 "LOVE IT" WORLD RECORD AT 103 MPH!
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BIGBOB22
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4. November 2005 @ 06:25 |
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gear79/everyone:
The purpose of listing one of my systems (I listed prices as I assumed most people would not know the Brands/Models) as an example in the debate "Are expensive cables worth it, etc?" was to simply show that I have the state of the art equipment necessary to be in a position to evaluate and comment on any cables available from $.99 to $15,000.00 or more, something that most people can not do. The intent was not to brag, or be a "know it all" (I learn something new everyday, thats why I look at forums).
To answer your questions; I have been involved with High End Audio/Video equipment for over 30 years. I have attended 38 CES Shows, 8 Stereophile Shows, 7 CEDIA Shows (CEDIA Memeber), and had numerious factory tranings(Mark Levinson, Proceed, Monster Cable to name a few). It has taken me these 30 years to build the systems I now enjoy.
I never pay retail, most often purchase at "rep or display price" which is approximately 20-25% off of dealer cost. So if a product costs $2000.00, dealer might be $1100.00 or so, less 25% for a total cost to me of may $750 or $800.00 with no tax or shipping. I also receive a number of products at "no charge" to evaluate (alot of cables and power products), purchase products on the last day of the CES (Consumer Electronics Show) in Las Vegas saving the company the cost of packing and shipping display models back to the factory sometimes at pennies on the dollar and also win approximately $25,000-$40,000 per year in sales contests.
I now operate my own business, but to give you an idea of sales/income at the last retailer I worked for (an independant speciality retailer), In the month of December, the store, with five (5) salesman sold $693,000.00 total for the month. Of that amount, I sold $441,000 on just two (2) major sales (one of which was a houseboat system that totaled over $242,000.00, the other, a home theater that ran $140,000 equipment/install only), and whatever I happened to ring up off the sales floor. My total commission for the month was $20,995.00 and NHT (Now Hear This) had a sales contest and I won over $10,000 in product from just that one company.
My purpose in these forums is learn and help others learn. I have strong opinions, based on first hand experience. BOB
FASTEST OFFSHORE BOAT IN 1982 "LOVE IT" WORLD RECORD AT 103 MPH!
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gear79
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4. November 2005 @ 07:51 |
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see, now it makes sense... you operate a store, and can get products for less, plus it was accumulated over time. i frequent a/v forums alot and see plenty of guys bragging on what they have and then i ask a few questions and things dont jive, so its always fishy to me. anyway, like i mentionesd in my previous post, its not to knock you, i was just wanting more info on how you acquired it all and time frame.
i also read tons on cables and hook ups too, and see the reviews and tests..... some times i see the best is not what its cracked up to be. i am at work now, i have a link bookmarked at home that shows a few tests on said cables...anyway ,when i get home,i will post it.
but as far as that goes, i am an avid reader of all kinds of forums, so i never stop learning either.
1rst. sig compiled by phantom69
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BIGBOB22
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5. November 2005 @ 06:53 |
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gear79
I started with this business/hobby when I was 12 years old cleaning the store and parking lot of an old national chain called Olsen Electronics. Earned my first receiver and speakers from them.
By the time I was in college I had the following system, most of which I still own: Audio Research SP-3a-1 PreAmp, Audio Research D-76a Power Amp (Mid/High), Audio Research X-Over, Phase Linear 400 Power Amp (one of the first high power amps, 201 watts per channel RMS @ 8 ohms) (Bass), Luxman PD-121 Turntable with Infinity "Black Widow" Carbon Fiber Tonearm (Very Rare), Advent 300 receiver for a Tuner and a set of Cerwin Vega 320B (18" Earthquake woofers) for Bass and Kustom Accustics (Now called Kinetic Audio) Monolith Speakers (Full range)with (4) 12" woofers, (2) 5" middrange, (2) super tweeters in each cabinet. It flat out rocked! It was good for about 122 db but still could reproduce delicate string quartets.
Also, when you buy things at rep price, you can sell them after the model year is up, so some things I keep, others I sell and get my money back. But I gain hands on experience with the products over a period of time, in a system that I know the capibilities of and exactly how it should perform. I also receive alot of long term loaner products for evaulation as well.
Hopefully my posts will be helpfull. BOB
FASTEST OFFSHORE BOAT IN 1982 "LOVE IT" WORLD RECORD AT 103 MPH!
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BIGBOB22
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5. November 2005 @ 07:43 |
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diabolos/everyone:
diabolos dont take this personally, I think the links you post are very helpfull, but the one from "The HDTV Expert" is a perfect example of articles and companies that everyone should run not walk away from.
It makes very little difference how a cable measures (other than 75 ohm coax should measure 75 ohms and should be terminated with 75 ohm connectors, etc.)What makes a difference is, HOW DOES IT PERFORM?"
The "HDTV Expert" and others like him are of the school of thought that is a cable measures the same, than it is the same. What a joke! This being the case, how do all the top cable companies stay in business if they are all the same? If it is true, we would only need one company. Using this logic, the "free in the box" cables that measure 75 ohms tip to tip are just as good as a Kimber Cable D60 reference Digital cable that costs $1000.00! Clearly. most everyone at AD knows this to be untrue! I can hear the difference between a Monster Cable Z200d digital cable ($80.00) "a damn good cable" and the Kimber Cable D60 ($1000.00)"one of/if not the best in the world" in a heartbeat on my system, and a would guess a fair number of AD members could too, given the chance. That being the case, how hard would it be to hear a difference between the "Free in the box" 75 ohm cable and the Monster Z200d? Same thing, only more so, it is a slam dunk. The difference between the "FIB" cable and the Z200d is far greater than the difference between the Z200d and the D60. It is the law of diminishing returns.
Now, if you want to talk video performance, also 75 ohm cables and termination, even more people at AD would see the difference! I am sure from your own experiences with your systems has shown you this. If not, you have very poor hearing and/or vision. I reccomend a hearing test, and/or vision test with the appropriate hearing aids/ glasses as your very next A/V purchase! If not, it is a total waste of your money buying quality A/V gear. Very frank comments, yes. Very true, also yes.
The key is to take home different levels of cables and try them in your system! Buy the one that offers the best performance for the money that you can afford! Most of all, have fun with it.
I love a 14 gauge speaker wire from HOME DEPOT, thats right, HOME DEPOT (total cost for 40' was $20.00) that I read about in Stereophile Mag. I am currently using it with NHT VT-2 Speakers in my office. The cost is not the thing, it's the performance that counts!
BOB
FASTEST OFFSHORE BOAT IN 1982 "LOVE IT" WORLD RECORD AT 103 MPH!
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Member
5 product reviews
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5. November 2005 @ 10:58 |
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someone please tell how i can use my ASUS TV7134 WDM Video Capture with came with my comuter i tryed to make it work on windows movie maker by connecting a cable to my vcr because i want edit my movie but i am have big trouble??????!!
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survey77
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5. November 2005 @ 11:12 |
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did you upconvert the dvd player? I have a hdmi dvd player ..samsung 850 and a pioneer pdp 5060hd plasma and could tell the difference right away. You must set the dvd to play either 720p or 1080i to see the difference. and yes its that much different. As far as the cables go. Get some from ebay. you can find super high quality cables there for very inexpensive prices.
Monster cable is a big ripoff. All the stuff they talk about is kinda like bose. They give you a sense of buying "value". Unless you have a dopplar radar station right next to your dvd player .. you do not need to spend a bazillion dollars on cables.
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skicourse
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22. November 2005 @ 18:58 |
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New to this site and hoping one or more of you out there can help me find a solution to my setup and cabling needs:
I am getting ready to buy a Sony Cineza VPL HS51 projector to share the same room as a Sony 36" HD XBR400 crt I currently have in the corner. The projector is going to be mostly for HD programs and dvd movies.....and for football games. I am looking for a receiver that will be able to take the output from my comcast digital cable box (currently the motorola DCT6200 that allows component out/optical audio or can be dvi/optical audio out)(or I can upgrade it to a Motorola HD-DVR box that has hdmi output if needed), dvd player-with hdmi, vcr-rca cables?, xbox-on component cables and allow me to choose the output to go to either the HDMI fed Sony Cineza VPL HS51 projector or via component connection to my the Sony 36" at the push of a button. They will not need to both be on at the same time but if that was a second option that would be even better. Is anyone familiar with any models under $1500 that can accomplish this? Do any of these models allow this without having to go to an inferior output for the Sony tv or for the projector? I have been reviewing the specs on the Pioneer Elite VSX74TXVi and read the Sound and Vision review, it sounds like it might work. Any ideas?
Another question....I am also in need of an 80"-92" pulldown or motorized screen for the projector....the room has a good amount of light that can get in during football games, is there a screen that is more forgiving in those light conditions that won't make the controlled light viewing alot worse? My budget for the screen is around the $1,000 mark but would like to pay much less. How about the GrayWolf by Panoview with a reported 1.8 gain? It's inexpensive...but maybe it's just cheap....
Thanks in advance for your time,
Skicourse
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-Jim-
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22. November 2005 @ 20:42 |
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Gents,
Just to complete my post on Page one here.
I bit the bullet and bought a DVI=>HDMI Cable and saw zero difference compared to the component cable from the Motorolla Cable Box. I was skeptical it may be just me and my eyes (no I don't wear glasses), so I paraded my teenage sons and my wife by it individually, and switched the same channel between HDMI and Component Cabling and no one saw any difference. Still a Great Picture but no difference.
The only change was when the TV detected the HDMI cable present it wouldn't let me resize any HD Channels - even when they were transmitting the more typical 4X3 screens. (Dam copyright crap I'd bet.) Even on component cables - as long as the HDMI Cable was plugged in - no re-sizing. If the Picture was noticably better I may have suffered with that. The Bottom line is the HDMI Cable is headed back to the Store!
By the way Skicourse - I just assisted my folks in purchasing a new Toshiba 52HMX85 and the Motorolla HD-PVR Cable Box last week. They are getting on in years so cloning my set-up somewhat makes good sense from a support - telephone call point of view. Anyway I'd say stay away from DVI=>HDMI unless you want to waste some $$.
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gear79
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23. November 2005 @ 03:31 |
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how much did you pay for the cable and what video equip did you have it connected to (tv and such) ?
1rst. sig compiled by phantom69
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survey77
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23. November 2005 @ 03:38 |
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well you had a hidef box ..and you used rgb cables for hidef. those arent cheap either for high quality ones. You can get great hdmi or dvi cables on ebay ..hell ill sell you some i import straight from china ... 15 bucks each for 1m cables gold plated.
This issue here is that when the BLUE RAY technology is released to the public ..NONE of your cables you have now will be able to support the bandwidth needed for the HIDEF dvd's. ONLY DVI AND HDMI will be able to support this so far.
True .. i dont agree with the copy protection bs they put along with it ...and if you are running dvi say into your tv reciever .. you still need a damn digital cable from the dvd player to the theater reciever to get sound in the surround sound which should be fixed.
HDMI is one neat little cable ..much better than the big ass RGB cable dangling around.
I do not htink that 15 bucks is too much for a cable.
Again ..stay away from MONSTER CABLE ..seems yall are hypnotized that this is the only price you pay for cables ..they are total poop.
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skicourse
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23. November 2005 @ 03:39 |
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gear79,
Do me a favor and review my post above Jim's and let me know if you have any ideas or suggestions for a good source on the web or by phone.
Thanks,
Skicourse
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gear79
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23. November 2005 @ 04:28 |
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@ skicourse
i have re-read your post again, but i am a bit confused. is your question about hooking up your set up or wanting to buy more equipment. from what i gather, you want to get set up, but i am just kind of confused. you threw in alot of weird info.
i don't know much about projectors yet (have not done enough research, but it will be one of my next purchases here in the near future for my h/t room) but set up is all the same. as far as your screen, i can only suggest e-bay for now, however, i was in a site that showed you detailed info how to make your own and still have it functional. it looks like a picture frame when not in use and they even had a picture in front of it that pulled down over the screen when not in use..
get me a few more ideas on what you want, i will do my best to help you out. i seem to have made a name for myself in the receiver forums now.......
1rst. sig compiled by phantom69
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skicourse
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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23. November 2005 @ 05:13 |
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gear79,
Sorry for the confusion....The one item that I am going to add for sure is the Sony projector and a "pull down" screen (can be manual or motorized)(screen will be over a window when down and have to come up and out of the way when not in use so a fixed screen or painting hiding the screen will not work). The problem is my Marantz receiver (SR8000 from 5 years ago) will not take DVI or HDMI inputs and will not allow me to switch between the 36" set and the new projector that will live in the same room. It is for this reason that I am in need of a switching device or even a new receiver that will allow me to take all the inputs listed in the original post and send to either the CRT or the projector depending on which we want to use at that time. Since the projector will be 15-25ft from all the other gear, I thought an HDMI cable would be best and cleanest. Since the receiver only supports component video with optical audio, it looks like it might need replaced rather than adding a switching device to the system that will have to upconvert component to HDMI or DVI.
Hope that I have clarified rather than muddied what I am trying to accomplish.
Skicourse
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gear79
Suspended permanently
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23. November 2005 @ 05:52 |
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ok, gotcha... so what are you willing to spend for a new receiver then? because there are several receivers now that do HDMI upconversions. my theory is however, i don't use the middle man. i run cables like that direct. i'd be leary of cables of great lenghts, due to sacraficing video quality. although HDMI is supposed to be the best right now, when blue ray comes out, they may make newer better cables, but at the data rate transfer they have now with HDMI, it's unlikely there will be better. plus, the newer stuff that comes out will have to change all over again. lets say you buy an HDMI cable and its length is over 30 feet, make sure its free of kinks and bends, same goes for optical cables. here's a tip, in case you don't know... seperate all you audio, video, and power cables to eliminate possible EMI....
i have a Yamaha RX-V1500, it does not HDMI or DVI upconversion, but the next model does. But i run my HDMI cables direct..
lets start with your budget, and we can go from there...
1rst. sig compiled by phantom69
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