I have had an InFocus LP120 projector for just over a yar and the lamp has burned out. I've tried twice with two different companies to order a new lamp. Each time I received an email a few weeks later stating that they could not fill my order. (Most likely out of stock.)
In the interest of science and saving money, I've decided to try making my own replacement lamp. I went to Home Depot and bought a 120v 100W Philips Halogen bulb. Everything fits together fine, the bulb is set up to run off of the projector's power supply. When I press the power button on the projector, the lamp lights and slowly gets brighter as the countdown from 10 progresses. However, when the timer reaches 7, the bulb turns off and the LCD on top of the unit reads "Retrying...Wait". It does this five times and then tells me that the "Lamp would not strike."
I assume that I am using the wrong bulb type, voltage, or wattage. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I'm doing wrong?
Thanks in advance,
Skylar
sounds like maybe a voltage issue I wouldn't think it would be heat related however the lamp may not can handle what the projector is putting it through.
I would say there are some electronic signals telling the projector that something is up with the lamp. These would have to be bypassed to use a "custom/diy lamp".
Quote:If you guys are still interested to bypass the lamp circuit for infocus projectors, here might be some useful information...
There should be two electronics boards, one is the DLP and video signal control, the other one is the power supply. The two boards are connectted via a connector.. which is probably 12 to 18 pins. That connector has the usual voltage supplies, such as 5, 12, -9, gnd connections. THere are also two very important pins on that connector that interlocks the lamp control.. One pin, signal comming from the digital board to the power supply, tells the power supply to ignite and keep the lamp on. If this pin is 5 V, the power supply keeps the lamp on.
The other pin is the feedback from the power supply to the electronics. When the lamp is happy, this pin is at 3.0 to 3.3 volts.
So.. all you need to do... is short the feedback pin to 3.3 V supply on the power header. That way, the electronics will presume that the lamp is all happy, and the rest of the electronics will be running just fine.
Beware the voltages/current inside the projector are dangerous
I suspect the original lamp was a metal halide type. They use a preheat element that gets the gas hot enough to "strike" or turn on. That is why there is that warm up period. When the lamp does fire they should notice a quick spike in current draw followed by a DROP in current. Thats because once the gas fires up the current to keep it going will be MUCH less. But the ignitor circuit should break free.
SO when you plug the regular lamp in it thinks thats the ignitor circuit going. ANd is looking for a drop in current after that.
