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V12 (PSTwo, slim ps2) DVD-R problems
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recondo
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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28. March 2005 @ 18:13 |
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Just wanted everyone to know that I have successfully backed up my 51st ps2 game (brothers in arms)I use nothing but Ritek g04-R & Taiyo Yuden TYG01 Both brands perform flawlessly for me at 4x with Alcohol 120%.
"Leadership is the art of getting someone else to do something you want done because he wants to do it."
"Every gun that is made, every warship launched, every rocket fired, signifies in the final sense a theft from those who hunger and are not fed, those who are cold and are not clothed."
2.8ghz.P4 512mb.Ram,2-200gb.HDD.
I/OMagic DVDRW IDE 1008 8x Burner
LiteOn SOHC5236k Combo DVD Rom
Only Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim Media at 4x
AnyDVD+CloneDVD2 DVDShrink+DVDDecrypter
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swiss123
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12. April 2005 @ 15:08 |
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hi i just ordered magic switch and and swapmagic 3.3 for my PAL ps2 slim
70003 has anyone any tips/problems with part C? (the bit that covers the censor at the back of the lid that fits between the hinge)
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RemyK313
Member
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12. April 2005 @ 18:04 |
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People have reported problems with the magic switch. I don't really know the details of it, but if you search the forums, you'll probably find more info on it.
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castro485
Junior Member
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13. April 2005 @ 06:14 |
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You got screwed with the magic switch. Alot of people are having problems with their PS2 not working. Something about the playstation never thinking that its open. I personally have the flip top for my slim for about 4 months, with no problems.
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RemyK313
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13. April 2005 @ 12:02 |
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Well, that's with the ghost clips, magic switch and slim tool. However, people report having success with the slim tool.
I, too, have had a fliptop for my v12 since..... well, since the beginning of this thread. And I've never had any problems with it. The only problems I've ever had are with games that require special methods to play, but that has nothing to do with Swap Magic or with the PS2LiD.
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Dix_Fix
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13. April 2005 @ 15:07 |
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swiss123 Hi my V12 also has slimtool 4 nearly 6 months with no problems. The fitting was somewhat tricky, U just have to be reasonably gentle & keep trying. The little pieces of plastic are not really presision made (like it says in the add) U will probably have to bend , twist, or shape 1 or all of the parts to make them fit. The front sensor, I found that the part was too small & needed to be superglued in (with the smallest drop of super glue) the rear sensor wasnt 2 bad needed a bit of re-positioning (3 - 4 times) to get it to defeat the sensor then O.K. but by far the hardest piece was piece 3 the brake defeat (4 the disk ) it has to be placed in 1 way then twisted, pushed in slightly then twisted to secure it. Mind U by the time i got mine where it was supposed to be (especially with the useless set of photos at the SlimTool site)I was ready to just remove the little brake arm. (Which would work fine by the way). After it was finished never had a problem since. (except, as Remy said, some games have special boot requirements & might take 2 > 3 boots) this is not the machines fault however of the SlimTool.
vini vidi vici
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tpham2006
Newbie
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13. April 2005 @ 18:16 |
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Ok...I went by the list on the 1st page and tried Optodisc 8x dvd-R. I ordered the 50 pack spindle and the first 20 disk is now in the trash can.
At the point where I swap the disk using SMD, it shows blue, but would not load up. It just sit there at the SMD with "Insert Disk" and blue outline around. I burned at every speed from 1x-8x. I noticed though, burning 3 disc at 1x, the PC and PS2 wouldnt even regonize the Disk. PS2 would just show Red during swap process using SMD. The rest burned at 2x or higher shows Green then switched to Blue and just sit there. I can hear my PS2 trying to load the game and then stop, try to load the game and stop, try to load and stop...
*sigh* going to try the ritek instead :(
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 13. April 2005 @ 18:53
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Dix_Fix
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16. April 2005 @ 15:18 |
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tpham2006 Have U ever had success burning disks? My SMD goes red around the screen on every successful boot? The only time Ive had the disk just sit & spin, is when they havent been copied ISO mode, SMD wont then recognise them. Do the disks U bought work with DVD movies? IF so it tells U they R OK. R the games U R trying to use actually DVD or CD (the bottom of the original is blue if its a CD & silver $ a DVD)? That Q might sound "NEWBIE" but it is just a line of thought.
I know Ive been opened up DVD Decryptor & couldnt work out why it wouldnt read the game Im trying to copy. (Funny it worked fine when I opened Clone CD). To that end I also have been sitting waiting for the disk to boot, with the DVD SMD & trying to boot a PS2 CD game, Your saying , yeah well as if. But who of us (with SMD's 2 disk bullshit) havent done it.
vini vidi vici
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sirenzero
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16. April 2005 @ 15:54 |
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the magic switch didnt work for me at all, me and 3 other people tryed with three different instructions, it seemed really easy but the damn thing just did not fit, it might have been the shitty website i got it from. also i had the same problem with my ps2 flip top for the slimline, it didnt press the sensors hard enough. I just threw it across the room and used 2 little peices of electrical tape on the sensors, its a thousand times easier. And also, because i saw it mentioned before, my v12 likes +R i think most people are saying the same thing - i find it ironic that i use sony dvd+rs to play 'backups' on my sony ps2 hehe
= S I R E N Z E R O =
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RemyK313
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16. April 2005 @ 21:55 |
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Ooh, didn't you read what I said earlier about the PS2LiD and the PSTwo? It didn't keep down the sensors on mine either, so I removed the spring that keeps the fliptop lid up. That immediately solved the problem. So now, my lid won't spring up when I press the eject button, however, it works perfectly. Also, two other people have reported having the same problem, and having the same solution : the lid isn't fitting well enough to cover the sensors due to the spring, so they had to remove the spring to fix it.
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Dix_Fix
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17. April 2005 @ 19:50 |
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Yes Im with U Remy, the spring has to be removed on the v12 fliptop, it actually says it on the instructions U get with it, although I missed it on the first one I did. I did however remember that U had mentioned removing it (in this thread)2>3 months earlier, worked fine. Most of the mods require some amount of re-modification to fit/work. Out of the vast amount of playstations (PSX, PS1, PS2, PSTwo) that Ive modded/chipped, I reckon I could count on one hand the amount that have worked first go. That is why I find these forums a blessing, the mere fact of reading others problems, helps to re-inforce in U what your particular problem is. Same goes for posting it may be exactly the problem someone else is having or help steer them by cementing their ideas & edging them in the correct direction. Even if it helps no-one, by putting it into words can sometimes clarify the whole problem for me. That said it is ALLWAYS slow work trying to sus a problem in such a sophisicated device + sussing it is one thing, fixing TOTALLY another.
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sirenzero
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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18. April 2005 @ 14:06 |
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ahh i apologize, i skimmed over the thread and didnt see the spring removal fix...the instructions i got from ps2lid.com or some site said to keep the spring in, like i said i just got salty and taped the damn things down, used the original lid and called it a day, but thanks for clarifying why it didnt work for me
= S I R E N Z E R O =
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Dix_Fix
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18. April 2005 @ 15:19 |
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Have any of U guys had silly booting with V12. My V12 has a wierd glitch, whenever a mate of mine as much as touches my machine it will not boot copied games DVD or DC, go figure. I know, it sounds like bullshit, & Im at a complete loss to explain it. I swear to U however this IS the case. He arrives, I will be playing a copy, we decide to play something we both can play, end of story (only with copies) untill he leavs no copy will work. Mind U copied movies work, as this is what we usually do after .5hr > .75hr trying to get them going. Yes it does sound like a pile of crap, I agree, & yes it will do my rep here no good at all by raising it. Without airing the thought I cant get any feedback, so there it is. Any Ideas guys. P.S. No he doesnt phyically alter the machine in any way, all he does is put the swap disk 3.3 in then the game, they might boot to the intro screen then no go. I would be happy for someone else to see this, just to SEE it happen.
vini vidi vici
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pretense
Member
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18. April 2005 @ 15:24 |
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Funny thing is, my PS2lid install was a complete failure. I stripped one of the two cover screws when trying to unscrew it (it was surprisingly tight), so I completely failed to remove the original lid! I suppose it was just as well, since my current tape mod (with tissue for the front sensor) seems to work just fine. I still have a completely new and unused PS2lid lying around, though =/
As for booting problems -- I never had any problems booting games from the Swap Magic menu. I *did* occasionally have problems booting up the Swap Magic discs themselves (especially the DVD) after prolonged gaming, though. Basically, the PStwo gets somewhat warm after extended play, and the Swap Magic DVD no longer reads properly and will boot to the browser screen. I imagine this is a Swap Magic media problem, though (they aren't pressed too well), since original games still boot fine no matter how hot the PStwo gets. I usually take this time for a bathroom break ;) or grab some snacks and let the PStwo cool down for a minute or two. Then the Swap Magic DVD boots fine again. This problem usually occurs with friends around, since when you're playing on your own, you usually don't go around rebooting and switching games over and over.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 18. April 2005 @ 15:33
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RemyK313
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18. April 2005 @ 18:30 |
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Heh, I said that earlier in a post, too.
I said that you'd need a GOOD screwdriver set to remove the screws. I almost stripped the head of one of the screws, and then I decided to switch sets.
You seriously need good tools to do it, don't try to use your dad's 25-year old screw driver that he uses to screw in house furniture, use a screwdriver meant to work with small screws and electronic devices. Usually these have slightly magnetic tips, and are made to not slip from your fingertips (as they're usually only able to be held with 3 or 4 fingertips).
And PS2LiD claims that their steps and parts are perfect. A little less Zima and a little more time spent testing is what they should do :P
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Dix_Fix
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18. April 2005 @ 21:08 |
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Remy what U said re the screwdrivers could not be more true. Im a tech & have all the nacessary tools. 1 thing however, I would NOT advise anyone to use magnetic tip drivers on ANY electronic equiptment, as "a magnet(the tip)moving past a conductor(any track, wire,component leg) WILL induce an EMF(electro motive force[current]) in the conductor. In other words, it can stuff your PS2. For the same reason they say not to touch any parts with your ungrounded finger, as static electricity can do the same thing. I know there will be heaps of U who will say I did it with no probs. I believe in Murphy's law ( if it can go wrong, it will go wrong, & at the worst possible time). This seems to hold true for me anyway.
vini vidi vici
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RemyK313
Member
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18. April 2005 @ 21:48 |
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Hmm, yeah, you know I've always known that magnets ruin electronics. But I never thought that it could ever cause such a large effect that it could, but yeah, you're right.
Maybe I should start wearing grounding straps on my wrist too :P
But yeah, you're right, better safe than sorry.
Also, back to the screws on the v12s. It seems that the ones on mine were melted INTO the plastic. Because small bits of plastic were coming off with the screws. It led me to believe that the screws were placed while the plastic covers were still hot.
Since you're a tech, lemme ask, what would I use to remove solder? Is there anything in specific, or any techniques I should know before heading on to radio shack and browsing around?
I'm trying to fix an old lightgun with a broken trigger. Basically, it's the small button that's physically pressed thats broken. I'm pretty sure that parts like that are easily replaceable, but part of it is soldered into a small piece of board. What do you recommend?
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pretense
Member
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18. April 2005 @ 23:49 |
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Yeah, I think you were the one who replied in a thread I made detailing my PStwo experiences (which has now curiously vanished), Remy ;) Weird thing was, the front screw was easy as heck to remove with the screwdriver I did have, but the back one refused to budge at all. I figured I had the wrong tool for the job, so I went off to Radio Shack for a complete Phillips set... but the darn screw still refused to move, even with the correct-sized screwdriver. The screw definitely wasn't stripped before I started using the correct one (in fact, I couldn't tell that I'd damaged it all), but it certainly was afterwards =.=
Anyway, there's a number of ways to desolder something. You can use a soldering iron in combination with a desoldering wick or pump/sucker, or you can use a specialized desoldering iron. Just google up "desolder" and you'll find no shortage of instructions ;)
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Dix_Fix
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19. April 2005 @ 13:18 |
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Hi guys Remy it is as Pretense says with de-solder. I find a suck it & see approach works just as well as any. I.E. have a good look around the piece to be de-soldered & asses the best way of doing it(taking into account the tools ,or lack of , that U have). For instance for a small microswitch, like the type Ur talking of. I find if U can get it free of the unit(gun) heat the solder till its moulten then simply bang it (the microswitch) on your bench, (quickly of corse before the solder hardens). Repeat this if necessary till clean. Then (as with all de-solder methods) get a small pair of pliars & grip 1 leg of the microswitch & wiggle till U feel it come clear of the board, repeat for other legs. This is for through soldered components. SMDs (surface mount devices, not swap magic disk) a little more care needs to taken. If U only have a soldering iron U need a very, very, very, fine tip, then U need to heat & lift each leg with a tiny art knife or scalpul(Is that the correct spelling?). Another method for SMDs is to heat all legs a once (by running Ur soldering iron accross all the legs on one side of the device, the same time applying a gentle lifting motion with a jewlers screw driver. Time & patients R the only keys to working on any electronics, Oh & a really good magnifying glass, For me this is a essential. Im getting a little long in the tooth.
Hope it helps.
Oh Remy you might find the same microswitch in another type of electronic unit (like an old video player etc) for a replacement, as U may have trouble sorceing one otherwise. So long as it fits in & does the job is all thats required. Dont be scared to try using one that isnt quite the same. If U have trouble sorcing a microswitch, try Ur local electronics guy he more than likely will help U out with 1 for cheap. I know Id give it away if I were asked & have many times. If U have drama, email me direct IMRichard1st@aol.com with a picture of the microswitch(with say a coin beside it for size reference) & Ill see if Ive got something to do the job.
vini vidi vici
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RemyK313
Member
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19. April 2005 @ 13:44 |
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Thanks a lot!
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Dix_Fix
Member
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19. April 2005 @ 13:49 |
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Any time Remy. Im sure Im not alone in wanting to see as many people as possible playing copied games in their PS2s. I have realised that I dont like playing Playstation games. Playing Playstation games that are copies is what gives me a BUZZZZZZZZZZZZ. Sic eh!
vini vidi dici
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tpham2006
Newbie
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19. April 2005 @ 15:14 |
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Yea, I have had success burning games before. I'm trying to burn DVD games, not CD. I am sure as its around 3-4GB.
I bought the optodisc 25pck spindle before to try out. It worked great. So I thought I get more...boy was that a mistake. It turned out that the 25pck spindle was TY02, while the ones from the 50pck are Optodisc008.
I can get them to burn successfully, just not read. I placed them in my PS2 and get a green border then it switches to a blue border. It just sits there with "insert disk" and a blue border as I hear the PS2 try to load the games and fail.
Next up, Ritek g04
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Dix_Fix
Member
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19. April 2005 @ 15:30 |
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tpham2006 R the disks Ur having problems with +R or -R this can make a difference. I wouldnt say one format is better than the other, just the 1 that works in Ur machine is the best. Did U try burning at X1 speed (if Ur burning software allows it). The slower U burn the better success, (this is an opinion, so take it 4 what its worth). I have not had any brand or format that will not work in my machines(V7, V9, V12). The only other thing I could think of is the laser needs adjusting. Easier to just buy the type of disks that worked(& R still working) in Ur machine. Do they work when U copy movies to them? If so that might have to be their fate & just bite the bullet & buy another 50/100 spindle of the 1s that work 4 U. Personally I reckon this sux. I mean what is the point of having a F*****G format i.e. +R, -R, if they wont work in the intended device.
vinv vidi vici
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tpham2006
Newbie
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19. April 2005 @ 16:13 |
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They are -R. My first spindle WERE optodisc. But they were manufactured by TY. Their manufacture code is TY02 while the 50pack spindle I got now are manufactured from Optodisc themselves, Optodisc008.
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Dix_Fix
Member
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19. April 2005 @ 16:25 |
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Tpham2006 SUX eh? Looks like Ur only option is to go back to Remy's list on the 1st page of this thred & try 1 of the other "TOP" brands. I cant steer U to any particular brand as I use the cheapest crap I can find & have had little problems. Mind U when I say little problems, by now I've burnt thousands (no bullshit) of working copies, I have also burnt hundreds of coasters. Just a thought, do the problem disks read on someone else's machine? This I find common (with coasters), that they will work in 1 of my machines but not the other 2, mind U its not always the same machine they work in.
Sorry not much help Im affraid.
vini vidi vici
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