which is better........ well..... for me the best quality program that is well worth it's price is DVD-RB with CCE. I only wish I had it from the beginning of my collection. I run all my backups through Rebuilder now..... it's the best!
I used to be an avid AnyDVD+CloneDVD2 usser. Always used those 2 or used AnyDVD and Recode 2.
But I finaly decided to try DVD-RB/CCE a few months ago and havent gone back to the others since.
I see a big diffrence in the quility using DVD-RB/CCE. I uasly do 3 passes and they turn out great. Even the TV episode DVD's which can be big have turned out great.
It does take a little longer for DVD-RB/CCE to do a DVD but the end results are well worth it. You can set up DVD-RB/CCE to do a batch of DVD's. I do 3 or 4 DVD's using the BATCH option and and start it before I go to bed and uassly all will be done by the morning when I wake up.
So as somone that has used both I would have to say DVD-RB/CCE is better.
You are comparing apples and oranges, CloneDVD, DVD Shrink and Nero Recode are transcoding programs. DVD Rebuilder uses encoding. Here is more info
Quote:What's the difference between DVD Shrink and DVD Rebuilder?
DVD Shrink is a transcoding program. Transcoding or more specifically Compressed-domain Transcoding means normally a re-encoding process that changes the video or audio features, such as resolution or bitrate, by changing parts of the a/v content, but not by reconstructing the content again (which is the case in encoding process). Compressed-domain transcoding also maintains the format of the file same as in the original file. Transcoding doesn't encode it takes out small bits of detail to make the DVD video smaller. Faster then encoding.
DVD Rebuilder can be used as both an encoding and transcoding program by using different modes and is a good program to re-encode a DVD. Encoding is the process of changing data from one form into another according to a set of rules specifiec by a codec. Often the encoding is done to make a file compatible with specific hardware (such as a DVD Player) or to compress or reduce the space the data occupies.
Encoding will give you a better picture quality when you need to 'shrink' your original DVD down to a very low bit rate.
Bit rates
Another common word in the encoding world. Generally, higher bit rates allow for higher quality, because more information is moved.
Think of bit rate as water coming out of a hose. If each drop of water in the stream of water leaving the hose is a single bit, then as you turn up the water pressure more bits are passed along. When the hose is turned down low only a trickle of water is moved meaning that few bits of water are moving resulting in a low bit rate. When the hose is turned to its maximum pressure, a great number of water droplets or water bits are moving each second resulting in a high bit rate.
Very often people are asking about the compression percentage and what results in a good quality backup.
Put simply, it is not the compression percentage which matters but the bit rate which is devoted to the video encoding.
These bit rates should give you a clue on the quality:
1 Mbit/s ? VHS quality
5 Mbit/s ? DVD quality
10 Mbit/s ? HDTV quality
For example, if a movie was originally encoded with a "high" bit rate (say 6 Mbps - "mega bits per second") and compressed by a lot, (say to 50%), on average, this would result in a bitrate of 3 MBps.
But if the movie was originally encoded with a "low" bitrate (say 3.5 Mbps) and was compressed only by 20% (to 80%), the resulting average bitrate would be 2.8 Mbps - worse than the 50% compression!!!
Now, what you can detect as "bad quality" will most likely depend on the final bitrate and the size of your screen. If your are projecting onto a huge screen, the higher numbers are probably necessary (say over 3.5 and preferably 4.5+). But on a regular TV, you can probably get away with the 3 Mbps range (and even lower).
