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Tuffdisc
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blade4me
Newbie
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10. September 2007 @ 05:29 |
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are they really a more "tuff" than other disks are or are they just reconditioned/relayered disks"?
"Tuff Disc, as well as being based on a highly compatible dye, has the further advantage of being able to withstand any type of treatment thrown its way - from everyday wear and tear to the rough handling and damage caused by small children, or when taking data off-site. Our disc has been reprinted with a tough pebbledash finish producing a media surface that is 40 times more scratch resistant and 20 times more dust resistant than standard DVD media.
if they are so good, why are they so "cheap"
http://www.discsonline.co.uk/proddetail....2Dr023rw&cat=90
any thoughts?
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Moderator
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10. September 2007 @ 05:47 |
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i have one single tuffdisc, got it free as a sample when i bought some Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden one time; come to think of it i've never attempted playing back or recopying from it. I don't remember what media code my Tuffdisc was. Just holding the disc put me off wanting to buy any, they look and feel like cheap bits of crap out of a cereal packet.
Anyways, here's some info on tuffdisc (which by the way don't look any more hard wearing than any other blank dvd's, other than the top surface having a horrible thick 'pebbledash' finish). I'd avoid them myself, see here -
http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=182700
a couple snippets from that link -
Quote:
Avoid E-net's budget media like the plague. E-net is well known for using overprints, B-Grade dyes, ect. and they will change out manufacturers at the drop of a hat. So quality guarantee from batch to batch is virtually non-existant. Avoid the following labels: Bulqpaq, Tuffdisc, Datawrite, Datasafe, White Label as they are all distributed by E-net. Videogame consoles and especially PS2s tend to be very picky about what they read. Taiyo Yuden or TY/MCC Verbatim ARE THE ONLY WAY TO GO THESE DAYS IMHO, especially for the applications that you are talking about. There is a reason for that ultracheap pricetag on those discs.
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Tuffdisk! No! Hahaha... Thing with them is, they could have three or four different overprinted brands/mid's just in a single spindle. You might get a good spindle of overprints, but it's a total lottery. For budget media they are also a tad overpriced methinks.
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 10. September 2007 @ 05:51
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JoeRyan
Senior Member
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10. September 2007 @ 07:54 |
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Toughening up the upper surface of the disc with a screenprint coating does nothing to improve the durability of the medium. The signal is read from the bottom, not the top. It sounds as though these media are rejects or over-production that is relabeled and sold off on the cheap.
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blade4me
Newbie
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11. September 2007 @ 06:36 |
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Originally posted by JoeRyan:
Toughening up the upper surface of the disc with a screenprint coating does nothing to improve the durability of the medium. The signal is read from the bottom, not the top. It sounds as though these media are rejects or over-production that is relabeled and sold off on the cheap.
thats close to what i was thinking, so i guess the advice is dont bother..?
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Moderator
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11. September 2007 @ 06:38 |
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between mine and Joe's replies, by now you should really be running a mile...
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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blade4me
Newbie
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11. September 2007 @ 06:40 |
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Originally posted by creaky:
i have one single tuffdisc, got it free as a sample when i bought some Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden one time; come to think of it i've never attempted playing back or recopying from it. I don't remember what media code my Tuffdisc was. Just holding the disc put me off wanting to buy any, they look and feel like cheap bits of crap out of a cereal packet.
Anyways, here's some info on tuffdisc (which by the way don't look any more hard wearing than any other blank dvd's, other than the top surface having a horrible thick 'pebbledash' finish). I'd avoid them myself, see here -
http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?t=182700
a couple snippets from that link -
Quote:
Avoid E-net's budget media like the plague. E-net is well known for using overprints, B-Grade dyes, ect. and they will change out manufacturers at the drop of a hat. So quality guarantee from batch to batch is virtually non-existant. Avoid the following labels: Bulqpaq, Tuffdisc, Datawrite, Datasafe, White Label as they are all distributed by E-net. Videogame consoles and especially PS2s tend to be very picky about what they read. Taiyo Yuden or TY/MCC Verbatim ARE THE ONLY WAY TO GO THESE DAYS IMHO, especially for the applications that you are talking about. There is a reason for that ultracheap pricetag on those discs.
Quote:
Tuffdisk! No! Hahaha... Thing with them is, they could have three or four different overprinted brands/mid's just in a single spindle. You might get a good spindle of overprints, but it's a total lottery. For budget media they are also a tad overpriced methinks.
so are they basically " faulty rejects" that have just been rebranded..?
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blade4me
Newbie
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11. September 2007 @ 06:43 |
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Originally posted by creaky:
between mine and Joe's replies, by now you should really be running a mile...
I will steer clear, thanks i wondered why i had not seen these disks in the big "high street" retailers, just in a couple of the small local independant stores. They did look good,and the write up on their website sounded good, but things not always what they seem.
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Moderator
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11. September 2007 @ 06:48 |
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If you really wanted to check for yourself if they're any more durable than normal discs, some stores will send you a sample (not sure if you have to pay though, i'm guessing you do); however that doesn't really prove a lot...
The media i swear by are in my signature, the important thing being that the discs i use are no more expensive than any other discs (i buy all my media from svp by the way)
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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deadlove
Suspended permanently
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11. September 2007 @ 07:39 |
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I have 100 of these from when they first came out.. back then they came out as ritek go5 and held a good burn. Mostly used them for ps2 and xbox backups and they are all still going strong after close to 2 years. Recent ones I have seen have either been cmc-mag or worse still fakes (yup.. that's a known manufacturer of the crappest media known to man.. not even suitable for putting your cup on. That being as it may be, if you have some that id as ritek then they will be fine for general stuff.. they don't in my experience seem any more resistant to damage than any other disks.. they still can't handle the circular scratch that will kill everything.
I'd avoid these now, but really. Theres a lot of crap talked about disk quality.. As with everything what you use depends what you want to do with it. A film or game for the kids who will trash it in a few weeks?? why not use cheap crappy disks.. long life isn't going to be an issue really is it? Test/experimental burns.. same rule really.. if it's going to be a test or an unimportant thing why waste money on quality? People also do a lot of whining on about laser life.. what price is a burner these days? Not much more than a spindle of 100 quality blanks.. Saying that. it does annoy me people who think they are getting a bargain with memorex/maxell/datawrite.. and then watching them binning 30% of them and blaming the hardware or making my life hard trying to fix non-existent software problems..
Finally.. be aware that mirror 16x disks are also crap, a lot of older players don't see the disks at all.. ;-)
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 11. September 2007 @ 07:52
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blade4me
Newbie
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14. September 2007 @ 02:47 |
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Originally posted by deadlove:
I have 100 of these from when they first came out.. back then they came out as ritek go5 and held a good burn. Mostly used them for ps2 and xbox backups and they are all still going strong after close to 2 years. Recent ones I have seen have either been cmc-mag or worse still fakes (yup.. that's a known manufacturer of the crappest media known to man.. not even suitable for putting your cup on. That being as it may be, if you have some that id as ritek then they will be fine for general stuff.. they don't in my experience seem any more resistant to damage than any other disks.. they still can't handle the circular scratch that will kill everything.
I'd avoid these now, but really. Theres a lot of crap talked about disk quality.. As with everything what you use depends what you want to do with it. A film or game for the kids who will trash it in a few weeks?? why not use cheap crappy disks.. long life isn't going to be an issue really is it? Test/experimental burns.. same rule really.. if it's going to be a test or an unimportant thing why waste money on quality? People also do a lot of whining on about laser life.. what price is a burner these days? Not much more than a spindle of 100 quality blanks.. Saying that. it does annoy me people who think they are getting a bargain with memorex/maxell/datawrite.. and then watching them binning 30% of them and blaming the hardware or making my life hard trying to fix non-existent software problems..
Finally.. be aware that mirror 16x disks are also crap, a lot of older players don't see the disks at all.. ;-)
Thanks a lot of useful info there,I think it goes to show that you have to know what you are buying , and you get what you pay for.
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