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Panasonic DMR-E85H error U99
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vulcanusa
Member
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17. March 2012 @ 14:33 |
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Well, I opened my DMR-E85H back up and disconnected that small rectangular pcb (elevated above the motherboard pcb) to the left of the DVD-drive. I flipped it over and there are several very tiny "cans" on that small pcb, but no electrolytic capacitors of the style many of us have replaced over the years. I didn't see any obvious issue on either side of that small pcb (but I'm no REPAIRMAN :-) )
There were also a couple of very thin reddish capacitors soldered to the motherboard pcb underneath that elevated pcb. They were unspectacular.
I removed the DVD-drive again and examined the pcb closely that is attached to the bottom of the DVD-drive. That is the pcb to which the ribbon cable connects from the elevated pcb. Again, unspectacular.
<*sigh*>
I turned my attention back to the CMOS button battery. It would not budge. The L-shaped arm/tab which extends from the motherboard over the top of that battery sure looks like it is almost spot welded to the top of the battery. In the top center of that L-shaped tab, there are 4 small depressed ellipses that give the appearance of heated metal. That button battery is not in a traditional CMOS battery socket. Although it's very hard to see, it almost looks like there is prong or two underneath the battery. Stamped on the motherboard near the battery appears white text in a rectangular box which states (I'm slightly paraphrasing here): see instruction manual for battery replacement procedure. Having reviewed the DVR manual, I conclude that instruction block is NOT referring to the DVR manual - but more likely the motherboard manual.
I searched on-line for a couple of hours looking for anything related to replacement of a button battery in that physical configuration, but all the videos (i.e. YouTube) and manuals I found were battery replacement instructions for a CMOS battery in a socket - which is trivial.
Any additional advice is welcome.
Thanks
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REPAIRMAN
Junior Member
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17. March 2012 @ 15:22 |
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Originally posted by vulcanusa:
Well, I opened my DMR-E85H back up and disconnected that small rectangular pcb (elevated above the motherboard pcb) to the left of the DVD-drive. I flipped it over and there are several very tiny "cans" on that small pcb, but no electrolytic capacitors of the style many of us have replaced over the years. I didn't see any obvious issue on either side of that small pcb (but I'm no REPAIRMAN :-) )
There were also a couple of very thin reddish capacitors soldered to the motherboard pcb underneath that elevated pcb. They were unspectacular.
I removed the DVD-drive again and examined the pcb closely that is attached to the bottom of the DVD-drive. That is the pcb to which the ribbon cable connects from the elevated pcb. Again, unspectacular.
<*sigh*>
I turned my attention back to the CMOS button battery. It would not budge. The L-shaped arm/tab which extends from the motherboard over the top of that battery sure looks like it is almost spot welded to the top of the battery. In the top center of that L-shaped tab, there are 4 small depressed ellipses that give the appearance of heated metal. That button battery is not in a traditional CMOS battery socket. Although it's very hard to see, it almost looks like there is prong or two underneath the battery. Stamped on the motherboard near the battery appears white text in a rectangular box which states (I'm slightly paraphrasing here): see instruction manual for battery replacement procedure. Having reviewed the DVR manual, I conclude that instruction block is NOT referring to the DVR manual - but more likely the motherboard manual.
I searched on-line for a couple of hours looking for anything related to replacement of a button battery in that physical configuration, but all the videos (i.e. YouTube) and manuals I found were battery replacement instructions for a CMOS battery in a socket - which is trivial.
Any additional advice is welcome.
Thanks
Hi,
That battery keeps the tuning information stored and also other settings you change in the menu when the A.C. mains power is removed. When they go down you loose tuning everytime you depower the unit.Usually before they go, they will leak gunk that is very corrosive onto the printed circuit pcb and eat the tracks and component legs.I have junked many units due to the damage to the tracks bieng eaten away and cannot be repaired.This was common on Panny VCRs where the battery had leaked and caused the front controls to stop working and other strange faults. What ever you do ,don,t short out the + and - terminals of this battery as they can draw enough current to explode.I've shorted out several of these to see what happens--they go off with a fair crack--sounds like a gun--so be carefull
Best Wishes
Repairman
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vulcanusa
Member
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17. March 2012 @ 15:35 |
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The battery was my last idea before junking this one for parts. It's probably not the explanation for the erratic behavior mentioned in my earlier posts, but if it were easy to replace it would be worth a shot. Is that arm spot welded to the top of the battery? If not, then do you know how to remove it short of clipping off the arm?
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K2SMN
Junior Member
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17. March 2012 @ 16:14 |
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Originally posted by vulcanusa:
The battery was my last idea before junking this one for parts. It's probably not the explanation for the erratic behavior mentioned in my earlier posts, but if it were easy to replace it would be worth a shot. Is that arm spot welded to the top of the battery? If not, then do you know how to remove it short of clipping off the arm?
Can you measure the voltage without the unit plugged in? If it is above 2.7 Volts, I don't think you need to change it. Yes, it is welded, and I believe you need to unsolder it from the PC board. You also need a battery with the tabs welded in place the same as that one. (I have never changed this battery on my units).
Good Luck!
Roger.
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vulcanusa
Member
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20. March 2012 @ 17:43 |
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I haven't opened my faulty machine back up yet and checked the voltage on the button battery, but a co-worker did point me to the webpage below to obtain replacements. I didn't write down the specific number of the battery in our machines (stupid of me -- it's definitely CR-something), but I believe it's probably the CR-2354. I'll open the machine back up, disassemble it this weekend, and verify.
Go to this link:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat/bat...7?k=coin%20cell
In the 'Termination Style' column click: PC Pin (Horizontal Mount)
Then click the 'Apply Filters' button back on the left side of the page.
Then in the 'Series' column, click CR-2354 and click the 'Apply Filters' button again.
In the page which appears, I believe our battery is the one with the yellow clad border. It sure looks like it.
I can now understand why I could not budge the battery. I thought the negative side was sitting against a prong, but the battery in fact has a pin that is welded to the negative side of the battery, much like the arm is welded to the top (i.e. positive side) of the battery. The pin welded to the negative side must extend into a plated through hole on the motherboard underneath the battery. My co-worker believes the battery can only be unsoldered by accessing the bottom of the motherboard.
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vulcanusa
Member
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25. March 2012 @ 11:39 |
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I disassembled the DVR, removed the motherboard, and used a multimeter to measure the voltage (i.e. DC) of the battery pins. Underneath the motherboard there are two positive leads from the battery and one negative lead. I set the multimeter to a 10v range. I connected a lead to one of the positive pins and a lead to the negative pin. The battery actually read slightly greater than 3v.
I have always had four of these DVRs, but one would never completely power up correctly (i.e. an eBay purchase that I only paid about $100 for 6 years ago). I figured I might need it for parts one day. Well, yesterday was the day. I decided I'd remove the motherboard from that unit and replace the motherboard in the DVR that developed the audio problems and other weird behavior. By the way - the battery in that spare motherboard read 3v exactly.
Bottom line - my 'new' unit appears to be working fine, so I suppose I have an issue with the original motherboard of the DVR I've been using these past 7 years. Why -- remains a mystery.
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starrig
Junior Member
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20. April 2012 @ 15:44 |
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Bad news for Comcast subscribers in the Boston area. My TVGOS data has vanished, and I just got confirmation from an engineer at Comcast that they've eliminated the analog feed in my town, and will be shutting it off through the Boston area over the next few months. He says there's a digital feed still running, but he wasn't sure what devices support it. Clearly not the Panasonic, though.
Has anyone tried switching to a Comcast or other DVR, and dubbing from that to the DMR for things you want to burn to disk?
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FFoldwomn
Newbie
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20. April 2012 @ 17:02 |
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After 7 wonderful years with my DMR-85, I lost the analog channel guide and all analog channels. I have Comcast in the Western Philadelphia Suburbs. I am renting the digital box with hard drive. I hope to copy some of the new content over to the Panny, edit out commercials and burn onto DVD's. I have made several DVD's from movies I first recorded onto the Comcast box, then copied to the Panny. A bit of a time consumer as it must copy to the Panny in real time, but burning to DVR is still fast.
I had lived with a subset of analog channels (about 7) for at least a year when Comcast went mostly digital. All went away about a month ago.
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starrig
Junior Member
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20. April 2012 @ 17:18 |
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Originally posted by FFoldwomn:
After 7 wonderful years with my DMR-85, I lost the analog channel guide and all analog channels. I have Comcast in the Western Philadelphia Suburbs. I am renting the digital box with hard drive. I hope to copy some of the new content over to the Panny, edit out commercials and burn onto DVD's. I have made several DVD's from movies I first recorded onto the Comcast box, then copied to the Panny. A bit of a time consumer as it must copy to the Panny in real time, but burning to DVR is still fast.
I had lived with a subset of analog channels (about 7) for at least a year when Comcast went mostly digital. All went away about a month ago.
That sounds about like what I'm experiencing. Looks like saving shows to DVD will be more time-consuming from here on out. On the other hand, it seems like the new DVRs have a lot of advantages, and as I look at the size of my home-burned DVD library, maybe it's not the worst thing if I have to think a little harder about whether I *really* want to save the latest new series in so-so resolution quality.
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starrig
Junior Member
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9. June 2012 @ 18:56 |
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First of all, thanks to everyone who has posted information on how they fixed their units with blown capacitors. Mine died suddenly the other night: first started turning itself on and doing self-checks, over and over, and then simply went dead. I opened it up, and found the two capacitors that most people have replaced visibly blown. Following a tip from here, I ordered replacements from Digi-key and put them in today. It came back to life!
However...no audio. Have any of you encountered that before?
I did note that another capacitor near the end of the board (C-something, a 6.3V cap) was bulging, and I called Digi-key back and ordered a replacement for that one, too. But I won't have it for a few days, so can't tell if that's the cause of the loss of audio.
Have any of you had a sudden audio loss, and was it caused by a capacitor failure?
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yankee10
Newbie
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9. June 2012 @ 21:59 |
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Originally posted by starrig:
First of all, thanks to everyone who has posted information on how they fixed their units with blown capacitors. Mine died suddenly the other night: first started turning itself on and doing self-checks, over and over, and then simply went dead. I opened it up, and found the two capacitors that most people have replaced visibly blown. Following a tip from here, I ordered replacements from Digi-key and put them in today. It came back to life!
However...no audio. Have any of you encountered that before?
I did note that another capacitor near the end of the board (C-something, a 6.3V cap) was bulging, and I called Digi-key back and ordered a replacement for that one, too. But I won't have it for a few days, so can't tell if that's the cause of the loss of audio.
There are several capacitors with a 6V rating in the audio circuit.
Have any of you had a sudden audio loss, and was it caused by a capacitor failure?
There are several capacitors in the audio circuit with a 6V rating. Some I have found are:
C4049 (6V470uF) which powers IC4004 +5v regulator
C4005 (6V470uF) which powers IC4005 +9v regulator
C4416 (6V330uF) which powers IC4409 +3.3V DAC/ADC regulator
C4418 (6V100uF) ditto
C4413 (6V100uF) ditto
All these power audio circuit components.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 9. June 2012 @ 22:10
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starrig
Junior Member
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10. June 2012 @ 00:08 |
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I failed to write down its number on the circuit board before closing up the box. But it was 1500uF and 6.3V, taller than the usual ones known to blow. I ordered a replacement with the same rating, and also one with a 10V capacity.
Meanwhile, I was able to burn a couple of DVDs of movies already on the HD. However, the record function isn't working, either, along with the audio. And I saw it turn itself on and do a self-test, so as soon as I could power it off, I unplugged it. I'll let it sit until the second set of parts comes.
Fingers crossed that it's just that capacitor.
On the ones I replaced, (10V and 16V), I used 25V caps as replacements. Though I also have 10V and 16V on hand, just in case. I hope using the higher rating doesn't cause a problem.
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yankee10
Newbie
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10. June 2012 @ 19:45 |
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Originally posted by starrig:
I failed to write down its number on the circuit board before closing up the box. But it was 1500uF and 6.3V, taller than the usual ones known to blow. I ordered a replacement with the same rating, and also one with a 10V capacity.
Meanwhile, I was able to burn a couple of DVDs of movies already on the HD. However, the record function isn't working, either, along with the audio. And I saw it turn itself on and do a self-test, so as soon as I could power it off, I unplugged it. I'll let it sit until the second set of parts comes.
Fingers crossed that it's just that capacitor.
On the ones I replaced, (10V and 16V), I used 25V caps as replacements. Though I also have 10V and 16V on hand, just in case. I hope using the higher rating doesn't cause a problem.
I can only find one capacitor with those values-- C1413. It filters the 1.8v circuit. C1539 (6V1000uF) is also on that circuit. The 1.8V circuit feeds regulators for 1.2v and 1.5v which go all over the place.
By the way, for these large power supply filter capacitors, a higher voltage rating doesn't hurt. Higher voltage rating is better--it gives you more margin. However, larger WVDC (voltage) ratings usually mean larger capacitors--which might not fit or in some cases block airflow. So it's good to keep an eye on that.
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starrig
Junior Member
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10. June 2012 @ 20:37 |
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Originally posted by yankee10:
Originally posted by starrig:
I failed to write down its number on the circuit board before closing up the box. But it was 1500uF and 6.3V, taller than the usual ones known to blow. I ordered a replacement with the same rating, and also one with a 10V capacity.
Meanwhile, I was able to burn a couple of DVDs of movies already on the HD. However, the record function isn't working, either, along with the audio. And I saw it turn itself on and do a self-test, so as soon as I could power it off, I unplugged it. I'll let it sit until the second set of parts comes.
Fingers crossed that it's just that capacitor.
On the ones I replaced, (10V and 16V), I used 25V caps as replacements. Though I also have 10V and 16V on hand, just in case. I hope using the higher rating doesn't cause a problem.
I can only find one capacitor with those values-- C1413. It filters the 1.8v circuit. C1539 (6V1000uF) is also on that circuit. The 1.8V circuit feeds regulators for 1.2v and 1.5v which go all over the place.
By the way, for these large power supply filter capacitors, a higher voltage rating doesn't hurt. Higher voltage rating is better--it gives you more margin. However, larger WVDC (voltage) ratings usually mean larger capacitors--which might not fit or in some cases block airflow. So it's good to keep an eye on that.
Okay, thanks. Sounds like that C1413 (I think that was the one) could cause problems all over. I'll report back when the new parts arrive and are in place.
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starrig
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 01:25 |
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No good. I replaced the C1413 capacitor with one rated for 10V in place of the original 6.3V. The result is the same. The machine powers up, shows all the correct screens, and lets me play back shows already on the hard drive -- without audio. I haven't tested DVD burning, but last time that was working okay. I can watch TV through the tuner -- without audio.
Recording is nonfunctional. If I press Record, it appears to go into record mode, and creates an entry in the NAV, but then says it can't play it, and then freezes until I unplug it.
Anyone have a suggestion where to go from here?
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K2SMN
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 06:16 |
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1. If you burn a DVD of existing good file on the hard drive, does it play with sound on another machine?
2. The failures you get when you try to record indicates a more serious situation. The problem is probably on the CPU board.
3. This could fix it or totally kill it: Try doing a firmware install. But that might not be able to be done if the unit thinks the firmware is up to date. Have you looked at the numbers that come up when you enter the "Service Mode"? Maybe a clue there...
Good Luck!
Roger.
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starrig
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 11:39 |
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Originally posted by K2SMN:
1. If you burn a DVD of existing good file on the hard drive, does it play with sound on another machine?
2. The failures you get when you try to record indicates a more serious situation. The problem is probably on the CPU board.
3. This could fix it or totally kill it: Try doing a firmware install. But that might not be able to be done if the unit thinks the firmware is up to date. Have you looked at the numbers that come up when you enter the "Service Mode"? Maybe a clue there...
Good Luck!
Roger.
I need to do another test, but the last DVD I burned (after replacing the first set of caps) was fine as far as sound is concerned.
I used to know this stuff, but now I can't remember how to do the firmware update. Nor do I know how to enter "Service Mode" -- or what I would look for if I got there.
Interesting to note that the machine itself seems to find no problems when it does Self Test. Really good test, hm?
I suppose I could take the other boards out and look for more visibly blown components.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2012 @ 11:41
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starrig
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 11:43 |
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BTW, has anyone found a satisfactory replacement for this machine (in new units)? Web searches indicate that Magnavox and Toshiba both still sell DVD recorders with hard drives. I no longer care about TV Guide, but I do want a machine with a HD and simple editing capabilities.
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K2SMN
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 13:14 |
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Originally posted by starrig:
Originally posted by K2SMN:
1. If you burn a DVD of existing good file on the hard drive, does it play with sound on another machine?
2. The failures you get when you try to record indicates a more serious situation. The problem is probably on the CPU board.
3. This could fix it or totally kill it: Try doing a firmware install. But that might not be able to be done if the unit thinks the firmware is up to date. Have you looked at the numbers that come up when you enter the "Service Mode"? Maybe a clue there...
Good Luck!
Roger.
I need to do another test, but the last DVD I burned (after replacing the first set of caps) was fine as far as sound is concerned.
I used to know this stuff, but now I can't remember how to do the firmware update. Nor do I know how to enter "Service Mode" -- or what I would look for if I got there.
Interesting to note that the machine itself seems to find no problems when it does Self Test. Really good test, hm?
I suppose I could take the other boards out and look for more visibly blown components.
------
I wrote a document about 7 years ago that contains the info you need to do the firmware upgrade, check various parameters, etc. Here's the link:
"http://www.dxcc.com/dmr-e85h.htm"
As for other machines... I have tried many other types and brands, but none come even close to the Panasonic units as far as quality, ease of use, good editing abilities, etc. The units I am using these days are the dmr-eh50. If you can find one, grab it!
Roger.
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starrig
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 14:06 |
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Originally posted by K2SMN:
Originally posted by starrig:
Originally posted by K2SMN:
1. If you burn a DVD of existing good file on the hard drive, does it play with sound on another machine?
2. The failures you get when you try to record indicates a more serious situation. The problem is probably on the CPU board.
3. This could fix it or totally kill it: Try doing a firmware install. But that might not be able to be done if the unit thinks the firmware is up to date. Have you looked at the numbers that come up when you enter the "Service Mode"? Maybe a clue there...
Good Luck!
Roger.
I need to do another test, but the last DVD I burned (after replacing the first set of caps) was fine as far as sound is concerned.
I used to know this stuff, but now I can't remember how to do the firmware update. Nor do I know how to enter "Service Mode" -- or what I would look for if I got there.
Interesting to note that the machine itself seems to find no problems when it does Self Test. Really good test, hm?
I suppose I could take the other boards out and look for more visibly blown components.
------
I wrote a document about 7 years ago that contains the info you need to do the firmware upgrade, check various parameters, etc. Here's the link:
"http://www.dxcc.com/dmr-e85h.htm"
As for other machines... I have tried many other types and brands, but none come even close to the Panasonic units as far as quality, ease of use, good editing abilities, etc. The units I am using these days are the dmr-eh50. If you can find one, grab it!
Roger.
Thanks for that link and the excellent info. I tried to download the firmware zipfile, but got a download error.
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K2SMN
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 14:29 |
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Originally posted by starrig:
Originally posted by K2SMN:
Originally posted by starrig:
Originally posted by K2SMN:
1. If you burn a DVD of existing good file on the hard drive, does it play with sound on another machine?
2. The failures you get when you try to record indicates a more serious situation. The problem is probably on the CPU board.
3. This could fix it or totally kill it: Try doing a firmware install. But that might not be able to be done if the unit thinks the firmware is up to date. Have you looked at the numbers that come up when you enter the "Service Mode"? Maybe a clue there...
Good Luck!
Roger.
I need to do another test, but the last DVD I burned (after replacing the first set of caps) was fine as far as sound is concerned.
I used to know this stuff, but now I can't remember how to do the firmware update. Nor do I know how to enter "Service Mode" -- or what I would look for if I got there.
Interesting to note that the machine itself seems to find no problems when it does Self Test. Really good test, hm?
I suppose I could take the other boards out and look for more visibly blown components.
------
I wrote a document about 7 years ago that contains the info you need to do the firmware upgrade, check various parameters, etc. Here's the link:
"http://www.dxcc.com/dmr-e85h.htm"
As for other machines... I have tried many other types and brands, but none come even close to the Panasonic units as far as quality, ease of use, good editing abilities, etc. The units I am using these days are the dmr-eh50. If you can find one, grab it!
Roger.
Thanks for that link and the excellent info. I tried to download the firmware zipfile, but got a download error.
Yeah, I'm having some trouble with that ftp site.
Send me an email and I'll send you a zip file with what you need.
My email is "Roger@dxcc.com".
Roger.
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starrig
Junior Member
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16. June 2012 @ 15:16 |
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Has anyone tried the Magnavox MDR513H/F7 or MDR515H? I see them on Amazon for about $400 new or $200 refurbed. They've got good size HDDs and pretty good user reviews.
I thought I saw a Toshiba with a HDD, but now I can't find it again.
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photoman2
Newbie
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17. June 2012 @ 07:54 |
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Originally posted by starrig:
Has anyone tried the Magnavox MDR513H/F7 or MDR515H? I see them on Amazon for about $400 new or $200 refurbed. They've got good size HDDs and pretty good user reviews.
Yes, I own a 513 and a 515. Both have worked well, and the "HQ" mode on the 515 looks excellent. Maganavox (Funai) has apparently stopped manufacturing them, and the price went up $30 on WalMart some months ago. Better hurry!
Jeff
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jhvance
Junior Member
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17. June 2012 @ 15:58 |
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Originally posted by photoman2:
Originally posted by starrig:
Has anyone tried the Magnavox MDR513H/F7 or MDR515H? I see them on Amazon for about $400 new or $200 refurbed. They've got good size HDDs and pretty good user reviews.
Yes, I own a 513 and a 515. Both have worked well, and the "HQ" mode on the 515 looks excellent. Maganavox (Funai) has apparently stopped manufacturing them, and the price went up $30 on WalMart some months ago. Better hurry!
Jeff
WalMart doesn't seem to have them available online for shipment anymore, but might still have a few remaining in stock at local stores -- just have to check by inputting your ZIP code to see.
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photoman2
Newbie
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17. June 2012 @ 16:48 |
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Originally posted by jhvance:
Originally posted by photoman2:
Originally posted by starrig:
Has anyone tried the Magnavox MDR513H/F7 or MDR515H? I see them on Amazon for about $400 new or $200 refurbed. They've got good size HDDs and pretty good user reviews.
Yes, I own a 513 and a 515. Both have worked well, and the "HQ" mode on the 515 looks excellent. Maganavox (Funai) has apparently stopped manufacturing them, and the price went up $30 on WalMart some months ago. Better hurry!
Jeff
WalMart doesn't seem to have them available online for shipment anymore, but might still have a few remaining in stock at local stores -- just have to check by inputting your ZIP code to see.
I guess they are actually running out. I read on another site that production ceased around February, if I remember correctly.
Good luck!
photoman2
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