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NEW FAN FIX
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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2. September 2010 @ 05:38 |
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THIS THREAD IS OUTDATED; HERE IS THE NEW ONE:
http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-153/ps3_fan_fix_v4_2-873420/
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[edit]
GeToChKn has been kind enough to redesign this circuit to work with more versions of the PS3 (all tested so far work). As shown, it uses a thermal sensor to control fan speed, but it can easily be changed to potentiometer control. Here is his diagram:
[/edit]
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
As promised, here is my long awaited PWM fan controller...just in time to be overlooked in a flurry of piracy.
Just in case you have not been following the previous thread, here is a quick refresher on how the fan works (skip this paragraph if you just want the final product). The PS3 uses a rather unusual fan. Most fans have just two wires...power and ground. This is fine, so long as you do not need to adjust the speed, as the only way to slow such fans is to cut the power down, causing a reduction in torque and a slow failure in progress that will eventually cause the fan to need so much torque that the reduced torque can no longer turn it. PC enthusiasts have long known 3-wire fans, but their third wire was always a signal wire for fan RPM readings, and the use of a standardized fan allowed Sony to get this functionality using just the power and ground wires. Some PC enthusiasts may be familiar with the newer 4-wire fans used with most modern CPU coolers. The forth wire is essentially the same in function as the third wire on the PS3 fan. In both cases, this wire transmits a PWM signal composed of fast pulses on and off...the more on time you have, the faster the fan will run. The 4-wire PC fan is different from the PS3 fan in one important way...while PC PWM fans are controlled by pulsing ground on and off (just like EVERY OTHER PWM FAN), Sony decided to be different by using a 3.3V for the pulse. Thus, my first "fan fix" was simply running 3.3V into this input, resulting in full speed operation and a noise resembling a jet engine. This mod was modified by several users using potentiometers in the circuit...but this had another problem...the adjustment went from too slow to too fast without any middle ground. Thus, I designed a controller that uses a potentiometer to control PWM...
So, here it is...
The wiring diagram(fixed):
http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/vv148/KillerBug247/New%20PS3%20Fan%20Mod/?action=view¤t=Ps3FanControlerWiringDiagram-1.jpg&t=1283835661822
The Circuit assembled on a small project board:
...And the back (don't make fun of my soldering; I know it is bad):
Parts List:
1 small project board - I can't recommend anything from dig key here; their prices suck for project boards. You can find lots of sites that sell these cheap...the one I used was purchased from Radio Shack about 10 years ago.
3 capacitors, ceramic, 0.1uF - http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=399-4263-ND
1 resistor, 10K Ohm - http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=PPC10KW-1CT-ND
1 Potentiometer, I used a 100K unit I found in an old radio...but this should be the same electrically - http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=CT2268-ND
(Optional) 1 pot dial - The one I used came with the pot I found in the radio...I don't think dig key sells these. You really don't need this; it is just for appearances.
A few feet of wire...it can all be the same color, as the circuit is not very complex. I used 20 gauge.
4 pieces of heat shrink tubing, about 20MM (0.75inch) long each. I used the waterproof stuff, but you don't need waterproof stuff, and you can use electrical tape if you use it correctly.
One 555 IC; you might want to get a socket too.
Some solder & a soldering iron (duh)
So...solder it all together! When it comes to the bit where you connect it to the system, things get a bit tricky because there are many different PS3s, with different setups inside. I am working with a 40GB unit, and I recommend using a millimeter to double-check voltages before using this on any other unit.
First, the fan wires:
There are three wires going to the fan. One is 12V, one is ground, and one is the one we want. This is the [edit] this is actually the gray wire; sorry about that [/edit]brown wire on my unit (and all other units as far as I know). If you do not have a 40GB and you want to test with a millimeter, this wire should be making 0.5V-3.3V when the system is on. Once we find our wire, we cut it...cut it close to the mainboard, but not so close that you cannot reverse this later if you choose to. Use some heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to make sure it does not short on anything. The other side of this wire is already long enough...but not long enough for easy soldering, so I added a small length of blue wire as shown in the image.
Next, the 3.3V and ground wires:
On the 40GB model, there are three white wires...when the front of a 40GB unit is facing you, and you are looking at the connector on the mainboard, the left wire is 5V, the center is ground, and the right wire is 3.3V. If you do not have a 40GB unit, double-check these voltages using a millimeter. We want to patch into the ground and 3.3V wires.
Once it is all done, we just find a place to stash the thing...I trimmed off the unused bits of circuit board, but there is plenty of dead room there to put the whole board if you use a small board like I did:
I wanted control while the system is on, so I routed the POT wires out the hard disk access hole.
Operation:
There is a smooth curve to the speed as you turn up the dial slowly. Because of the caps, you must turn very slowly to notice the steady increase. The slower end of the speed spectrum is a good speed that should keep most systems cool all the time. The faster end should be enough to keep any system cool, but it still isn't as loud as the hard-wire method.
Post word:
I am not an electrical engineer, I provide no guarantees, and if you screw something up, it is YOUR FAULT...even if it is my fault. If you are an engineer, and you think you can do it better, please do so...and post the circuit here so I can use it myself.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 9. December 2010 @ 08:38
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GeToChKn
Newbie
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6. September 2010 @ 15:21 |
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Nice job. I've been trying to find a circuit as well to do this. I fix probably 10-15 YLOD's a week and increasing the fan speed I find helps a lot from systems coming back but the problem is taking the 3.3V line and running it through a pot doesn't always work out. Sometimes I need a 50k pot, sometimes 100k, sometimes even 200k. Nothing is consistent with it. Sometimes the slightest jarring of the ps3 will cause the fan to ramp up to full and result in the customer bringing it back to me to be turned down, or it start to run too slow and then system overheats and YLOD's again. Then I tried keeping the initial PWM line, adding a diode to prevent feedback voltage, and then adding the 3.3v with the pot mod, so the original voltage stays and the additional voltage is added but its still not perfect or consistent.
I've been looking at voltage multiplier circuits to simply double the voltage coming out of the PWM line but its hard because its such a low voltage (0.6-0.6v is the standard PS3 PWM voltage), most op-amps output a minimum of 2v, so then you end up on jet engine level again. I'm going to breadboard your circuit tomorrow and see how it works for me on different model's of PS3's. Thanks for the work and I'll report back how well it works.
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GeToChKn
Newbie
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6. September 2010 @ 16:01 |
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Quick question. You say there is two settings? Is that with the pot on zero and the pot on full? You say you used a 100k pot but then show a 10k pot in the diagram, which one is it? Also, can you measure what the output voltage is coming off the 555?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. September 2010 @ 23:01
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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7. September 2010 @ 00:58 |
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Actually, I posted that when I was tired and I hadn't tested it very much...it seems to be a smooth curve, the caps do cause a bit of a delay in the operation, so you have to turn very slowly to notice the smooth curve. (I had considered a slightly different cap setupt for faster operation, but I decided to avoid shocking the fan with sudden changes) Also, the POT is a 100K...I'll fix the diagram.
I'm afraid I can't accurately measure the output voltage as I do not have a scope...but if it is working as it should, then the PWM pulses are 3.3V
BTW...I have a few thermistors laying around...anyone think that they would want a thermal controlled version of this circuit?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 7. September 2010 @ 01:09
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GeToChKn
Newbie
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7. September 2010 @ 01:36 |
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A thermal controlled version may be interesting. I would still like a way to use the original PWM signal coming from the PS3 somehow instead so that the built in thermal measures will increase the original signal and that in turn would be doubled or something in another circuit.
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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7. September 2010 @ 03:50 |
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I had thought about modifying the original signal, but I came to a problem...the PWM signal from the mainboard does not increase until you are overheating...if you have a fan setup to keep the temperatures far from overheating, then the PWM signal will not increase at all. Because of this, modifying the normal PWM signal would do nothing to keep temps down. This is why we are stuck with physical controls or possibly a thermistor-based setup.
Personally, I am happy with the setup I have now...I might make up something using the thermistors I have already if enough people want it, buy I really like it how it is now...quieter than a jet engine, but still running so cool it feels like it is turned off...plus a lower speed for low-stress stuff like chatrooms.
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GeToChKn
Newbie
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7. September 2010 @ 12:58 |
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Well just put your circuit together on the breadboard and it works fine. Can go from low to almost jet engine. This was on a shorter board (no EE chip) 5 wire power supply style system. I'm looking at doing this for the YLOD systems I repair in my shop and as I've said other methods are hit and miss, but this looks a lot more consistent. I replaced the pot with a 100k resistor instead as I'm not going to making rooms for knobs or adjustments. I'm going to look at the thermistor route though, as I'd like it to autoadjust if it gets too hots. Considering 100k on the pot at full is the lowest, finding a thermistor that has a 100k rating at room temp is what I'm going to be looking for.
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GeToChKn
Newbie
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9. September 2010 @ 19:52 |
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K, didn`t work the same on an old style full board with the EE chip on it. I had been inquiring on a electronic forum about doing something like what you did, and one of the posters suggested to switch the cap from pin 5 to ground with a 4.7k resistor to avoid the timer getting stuck on with using such a low voltage on the 555 and it worked fine. I replaced the pot with a 100k thermistor, so it will vary the resistance and therefore and increase the speed with any heat increases. The poster from the electronics forum also suggested adding a few diodes in place to allow the current to discharge properly during the duty cycles, so I`m going to experiment with that and I`ll post a completed diagram once I`ve tested it fully on more systems. I have it designed in LTSpice right now, so I can simulate the effect of the different components on it and see how it goes.
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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9. September 2010 @ 23:32 |
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Cool...my hope is that we can come up with a "one size fits all" circuit that works with all versions (maybe even slim), and which supports POT or thermistor control.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 9. September 2010 @ 23:33
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GeToChKn
Newbie
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10. September 2010 @ 00:24 |
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Here's what I got so far. http://img228.imageshack.us/i/ps3j.jpg/ The pot or thermistor method wasn't anything different that changing out the pot for the thermistor and thats it. They key will be finding the optimal place on the board to put thermistor. My other thought was a DPDT switch that would have two resistors on it to allow you switch between a high and low speed manually. As I said, this is for YLOD protection and the longer a system lasts and doesn't come back to my shop, the better for me and the better for the customer. With a pot or switch, for me, I would never know how low the person was running it. If they had the pot down cause it was too loud and then played COD4 for 14 hours and it YLOD's on them and its under warranty, I have to try and fix it again. With the thermistor, it's automatic, and they were only 90cents from digikey, thats cheaper than a pot or switch probably anyways. lol.
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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10. September 2010 @ 06:04 |
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I can think of two places that would be good for mounting a thermistor. The first is between the RSX chip and the RSX chip cover; it is like they designed it with thermistors in mind, and it is one of the hottest spots in the system. The other spot would be the side of the cell, towards the middle of one of the sides. Either way, I would use arctic adhesive to secure them; to ensure accurate readings.
Maybe a pair of thermistors? That way, you know that if a game is overloading the RSX and not the Cell (or vice-versa), you are still OK...and when a game overloads both, then the fan kicks in hard...just like it needs to.
As for the dpdt switch, I don't seem much advantage over a simple pot...it would cost about the same, and the rectangular access hole that you would have to cut for a switch would be larger than the simple round hole that you would have to drill for a pot. Don't get me wrong...I love my dremel tools (I have 5 of them), but drilling is just so much easier...and it usually looks better too.
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joemuscles
Account closed as per user's own request
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11. September 2010 @ 11:58 |
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Originally posted by GeToChKn:
Here's what I got so far. http://img228.imageshack.us/i/ps3j.jpg/ The pot or thermistor method wasn't anything different that changing out the pot for the thermistor and thats it. They key will be finding the optimal place on the board to put thermistor. My other thought was a DPDT switch that would have two resistors on it to allow you switch between a high and low speed manually. As I said, this is for YLOD protection and the longer a system lasts and doesn't come back to my shop, the better for me and the better for the customer. With a pot or switch, for me, I would never know how low the person was running it. If they had the pot down cause it was too loud and then played COD4 for 14 hours and it YLOD's on them and its under warranty, I have to try and fix it again. With the thermistor, it's automatic, and they were only 90cents from digikey, thats cheaper than a pot or switch probably anyways. lol.
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joemuscles
Account closed as per user's own request
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11. September 2010 @ 12:04 |
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Originally posted by GeToChKn:
Here's what I got so far. http://img228.imageshack.us/i/ps3j.jpg/ The pot or thermistor method wasn't anything different that changing out the pot for the thermistor and thats it. They key will be finding the optimal place on the board to put thermistor. My other thought was a DPDT switch that would have two resistors on it to allow you switch between a high and low speed manually. As I said, this is for YLOD protection and the longer a system lasts and doesn't come back to my shop, the better for me and the better for the customer. With a pot or switch, for me, I would never know how low the person was running it. If they had the pot down cause it was too loud and then played COD4 for 14 hours and it YLOD's on them and its under warranty, I have to try and fix it again. With the thermistor, it's automatic, and they were only 90cents from digikey, thats cheaper than a pot or switch probably anyways. lol.
Hello, Every1
Just wanted to know which method so far is best to use for ps3 fan mod? one with thermistor or pot? I'm pretty clueless on reading your fan mod diagram GeToChKn posted. I really want to do a ps3 fan mod with being able to control the fan speed from low to fast,but being able to get the fan speed level in between speeds without the ps3 sounding like a jet engine. Don't want my ps3 ylod on me either. Would much appreciate if you could post a good pdf tutorial with layman's terms on doing your fan mod with good pics & break down points of your electrical diagram of where to cut and solder wires to the ps3 and the other materials that probably have to be purchased at radio shack.
Thanks in advance
p.s would appreciate anybody else involved with improving the ps3 cooling down
also I'm in the process of repairing my ps3 kes-400a laser lens and waiting on my blackcat usb. I have a 80Gig console if that helps. lot of projects & haven't even played 1 video game for this system yet, lol
Obsessed is a word the lazy use for the dedicated
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 11. September 2010 @ 12:25
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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11. September 2010 @ 14:53 |
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Afraid we don't have a complete guide yet...this is still a work-in-progress. If all PS3s were the same, then I would make a PDF...but I only have my 40GB unit, GeToChKn repairs YLOD'd systems, so he has access to a lot of systems...but it isn't like he has one of every model just sitting around.
That said, the information here should be all you need to make the device. If you do not have a multimeter, I wouldn't even attempt it right now.
The pot vs thermistor question is a matter of preference...I think most people will prefer the thermistor for automatic changes. I prefer the pot because it keeps the system from getting hot in the first place...but that is only because I keep it near max speed all the time.
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gamemods
Newbie
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13. September 2010 @ 12:12 |
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Hi,
I am developing a complete plug and play chip for this that will work on all PS3's (event the PS3 slim, it will be out later this month). I currently have a kit that uses a single potentiometer and works on all PS3'S but does require some soldering to the 2 wires the 3.3v and the Grey controller wire for the fan.
The kit I currently have explains step by step how to install and takes about 5 - 10 minutes to do so and comes with all required materials.
edited by ddp
You can adjust the fan speed to exactly what you want.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. September 2010 @ 17:23
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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14. September 2010 @ 03:11 |
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Hey gamemods...if it works, then I am happy to see it; I expected to see units like this for sale right after I posted my first fan mod article...and I only designed this version because no one beat me to it after I gave them a long headstart.
Two things...how about a solderless version? You can get the plugs and sockets cheap; you could make it a "plug and play" install by including two plug & socket sets to go between the wires that are usually cut and the sockets that they plug into. Also, I would assume that your method is easily adaptable to a thermistor...your customers may prefer this, at least as an option.
I don't know which method you are using (your wiring diagram seems to be closed at the moment)...if you are using the 555 method discussed here, I would request that you not charge for the wiring diagram...you can charge whatever you like for building, installing, or guaranteeing it; even for the install guide...but not for the knowledge involved in the circuit itself; that is free. If you have your own design, then you are of course free to do with it as you wish...there is nothing wrong with capitalism; even the sale of knowledge can be justified in certain cases...I just couldn't justify it to myself in this case due to the simplicity of the problem; thus it is free and I am not going to put any money into making it any better, as I know it would be money lost. I don't assume that you are using my or GeToChKn's design; I just wanted to make this very clear in case you are.
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Newbie
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14. September 2010 @ 05:32 |
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Even so, Sony has, for the moment, blocked PSJailbreak's sale Down Under. It's true that code which does almost all that the PSJailbreak did is freely available, but its use is beyond many a would-be player of ripped off games since it requires both compilation and tweaking to allow pirated games to ssbe played - as it stands, the code does not permit this.
i like you , my guys.
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gamemods
Newbie
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14. September 2010 @ 08:01 |
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Originally posted by KillerBug:
Hey gamemods...if it works, then I am happy to see it; I expected to see units like this for sale right after I posted my first fan mod article...and I only designed this version because no one beat me to it after I gave them a long headstart.
Two things...how about a solderless version? You can get the plugs and sockets cheap; you could make it a "plug and play" install by including two plug & socket sets to go between the wires that are usually cut and the sockets that they plug into. Also, I would assume that your method is easily adaptable to a thermistor...your customers may prefer this, at least as an option.
I don't know which method you are using (your wiring diagram seems to be closed at the moment)...if you are using the 555 method discussed here, I would request that you not charge for the wiring diagram...you can charge whatever you like for building, installing, or guaranteeing it; even for the install guide...but not for the knowledge involved in the circuit itself; that is free. If you have your own design, then you are of course free to do with it as you wish...there is nothing wrong with capitalism; even the sale of knowledge can be justified in certain cases...I just couldn't justify it to myself in this case due to the simplicity of the problem; thus it is free and I am not going to put any money into making it any better, as I know it would be money lost. I don't assume that you are using my or GeToChKn's design; I just wanted to make this very clear in case you are.
Yes I am constructing the solderless version right now it is almost complete and will work on all versions.
I made this kit before I even knew this forum existed, I started installing my kits into PS3's that I repair with lifetime warranty about 3 months ago. Also my youtube video was posted August 8th which is when I first started to sell the kits. Way before you posted this forum. I have 15 years experience repairing electronics so designing and building this was done under my own experience.
The idea behind this is to save you and others time and provide convenience. Just like anybody could build the kits that team xecuter provide if they have the right equipment, experience, and knowledge but for those who dont or do and just want it to work and do not want to bother spending countless hours soldering and calculating resistance,diodes, etc. you are better off to buy the kit, install it and be done with it.
The kit I currently provide only has 2 wires you need to solder(takes 5 - 10 minutes to install), with the new kit you just plug the power supply line into the card, plug the line from the card into the mainboard(where the original power supply line went) and another wire that connects directly to the fan wire (no longer need to be plugged into the mainboard) and your done. Adjust the fan speed to your liking. ;)
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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14. September 2010 @ 23:31 |
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Cool...I'm too much of a DIY-er to buy a kit, but it is nice to know that there is one out there for those people who want to protect their system, but who do not have soldering equipment or skills.
FYI...his kit is a copy of my abandoned pot-only design from 6 months ago. I have no problem with him fleecing the rest of the internet...but I don't want it to look like I am recommending this kit to AD users.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. September 2010 @ 00:00
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GeToChKn
Newbie
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17. September 2010 @ 00:09 |
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Is it just a pot between the grey fan wire and the 3.3v line adjusted to send a steady voltage of around 1.1v directly to the PWM line?
Killerbug: I'll get to testing the circuit more in the next week, got a few ps3's in for ylod reflows. Wish I had time this week, had in a original 20gb system and a few other rarer ones that I don't see too often, but I get enough of a variety of systems in for repairs that I can still test a variety of systems.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 17. September 2010 @ 00:31
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Newbie
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17. September 2010 @ 02:22 |
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Originally posted by GeToChKn:
Is it just a pot between the grey fan wire and the 3.3v line adjusted to send a steady voltage of around 1.1v directly to the PWM line?
Killerbug: I'll get to testing the circuit more in the next week, got a few ps3's in for ylod reflows. Wish I had time this week, had in a original 20gb system and a few other rarer ones that I don't see too often, but I get enough of a variety of systems in for repairs that I can still test a variety of systems.
well, how to test?
i like you , my guys.
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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17. September 2010 @ 05:24 |
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How to test: install it as a part of the YLOD fix and see if it works...and to see if it works the way we want it (faster than stock at low speed...but still not blasting, much faster at high speed, with lots of noise)
There are only so many PS3 model numbers. Just makeup a spreadsheet listing each number, the locations of the plugs, the pinouts for each plug, and the particular circuit needed in each case...or at least that is what I would do. It would be great if we could put everything in a nice simple PDF, stamp the AD logo on it, and let people repost it all over the web.
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ooZEROoo
Senior Member
4 product reviews
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17. September 2010 @ 20:16 |
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Nice work yet again.
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ddp
Moderator
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22. September 2010 @ 17:27 |
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gamemods, no advertising allowed on this site unless you pay for it. edit your post & sig to conform to forum rules ASAP/ posts edited.
1. Advertising via forum messages is strictly prohibited. If you need to advertise your products on our site, contact us via the feedback form and we will negotiate an advertising contract with you/your company.
3. Providing affilate tagged links to products or services is not allowed.
http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487
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micric100
Newbie
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22. September 2010 @ 17:54 |
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Hi Killerbug, I have the same PS3 model as you, the 40GB with the black power supply. In the older fan fix you said to use the grey wire, and in this one you said that the brown one is the PWC for most systems, was that a typo?? because everyone seems to be talking about this grey wire
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