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The Official PC building thread - 4th Edition
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In case you want to ask something like "What components should I pick for my new PC?", start a new topic to our PC building forum.
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22. March 2011 @ 01:51 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
Originally posted by omegaman7:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
ASUS have an excellent display very vibrant and crisp, way to go.
I don't know if I'd give the credit to Asus :p Everybody buys the panels from distributors. And the Asus monitor I bought my mother may have a tough road ahead of it. I got her the 23.6 monitor. I recently input the command to have the monitor sleep after 10min of inactivity. When it comes back on, the backlight acts funny. It flickers. My samsung does not do that. Or perhaps I'm nitpicking. Don't get me wrong though. There are manufacturers out there, that seem to sell some pretty dire lcd monitors. No doubt they get the last pickins from the distributor?

Hey russ, remember that Thermaltake Sata dock you recommended and I bought? Oops! LOL! I'm housesitting my brothers house, and I had the device sitting on the floor in front of their HDTV. On top of their entertainment stand is a Scented wax contraption, that heats the wax, allowing scents to fill their home. I decided at one point last night to check if it had anything in it. I was almost certain it was empty given the length of time that had transpired. Nope! I tipped it toward me, and a substantial amount poored out of it, and on to my poor hard drive and sata dock. Thankfully it cooled so fast, it didn't cause any damage. Freaked me out big time though. I had my "Zoe" hard drive with me. That would have irritated me big time. Thankfully it wasn't scented oil. Would have wrecked it for sure!
It is true that there are 5 monitor makers for companies to select from however that is a mood point really. Any manufacture may use one or all of them to build their flat panels so I'm not sure what the relevance is in that statement.

There are bad Sammy's too, just like ViewSonic can make a great monitor and have a shatty one as well. Also pixel size, contrast/brightness, and so on? specs don't always determine that a display will be good or not. There are other factors involved so if you have a high quality, let?s say larger pixel ? less resolution, flat panel it can still look better than a low quality, smaller pixel ? higher resolution, display. Just like statistics specs don't always tell the whole story. This is really true in the Audio world!

I use to buy Scepter monitors too, I had the Komodo 19", several models, and they were good while they worked. The screen was sharp but not as vibrant as a better quality flat panel. Still the price was right and they worked well for the short time of their life span, mine were around 4-5 years too. I also have an old NEC MultiSync LCD1830 - LCD display - TFT (Active) - 18.1 that is over 10 years old now, the resolution is much less than today?s monitors but it is still a very nice monitor and will probably work for another 5 years. Of all of my many monitors Scepters? died out first and I have one value line ViewSonic that is acting up too. My 24? (16:10/1920x1200) Sammy is my nicest monitor but my cheap Auria 24? (16:9/1920x1080) is pretty darn nice too even though the speakers on it suck. So again what?s on paper doesn?t always matter and it is always better to test drive a monitor before buying it, just like in the audio world.
Mr-Movies,
The point I was trying to make is it's all on the monitor manufacturer to decide what panel they want to use, and what price point they are looking for, along with the quality level they choose. They are the ones responsible for the quality you get for the money you pay. The cheapest monitors are TN panels, the most expensive ones are S-IPS. From the cheapest to most expensive they are TN, MVA, S-PVA, H-IPS and S-IPS.

My Sceptre X20 Naga III uses the S-PVA panel, and has a very small Pixel Pitch of 0.242, and it's picture quality and color reproduction is quite good. Not quite as good as an S-IPS, but it also costs a lot less. My Sceptre lasted 4 years, and died. I took it into Sceptre and they said it needed a new Panel and offered me a complete rebuild for $100. Since I couldn't buy a comparable monitor for $100, I let them go ahead and rebuild it. Keep in mind, my monitor usage is about 3 times the normal amount because I'm usually on the computer from 14 to 17 hours a day (Retired). now my monitor is doing the exact same thing the original did. Run for a few minutes and then shut down. like the original, I can fiddle with it and get it to finally work all day, as long as I don't shut down or reboot. I'm going to take it apart tonight and see what I can find out.

You don't have to have great specs to have a quality picture, because as you say it isn't just Pixel Pitch or Contrast ratio that determines the picture quality, but rather a good combination of all the factors involved. It's possible to have a large Pixel pitch and still have a quality picture, but only if the monitor delivers better color rendering to begin with. The picture quality with the X20 Naga III is excellent, and no one has ever failed to notice how great the picture quality is, especially when watching HD content.

Unlike most 8-bit IPS/VA based panels, TN is only 6-bit and unable to display the full 16.7 million colors available in 24-bit true color. They can mimick the 16.7 million colors of 8-bit panels using a technique called dithering, but the results are unimpressive. I don't know if this still applies to current TN panels today, but it was a big reason for me to avoid a TN panel monitor 5+ years ago. I do know that there are at least 2 other monitors like mine on this forum and everybody has been happy with them. Mine has seen about 12-15 years of typical use, because I'm on line so much. It's been a good monitor, but I don't know if I would buy another Sceptre. I'm disappointed that after Sceptre replaced everything but the front and back covers, that it didn't last longer than 4 days past a year. I feel that the new Asus ML228H will be a nice step up in size and video quality. I already know that a 23.6" or 24" is too large for my desktop. I had a 24" NEC here for about a month and it was beautiful, but again too large. It was also an $1100+ monitor. I've used the Asus before, and the picture quality is outstanding, so I'm expecting to be very happy with it, and hopefully I can put my XFX HD-467X-DDF2 Radeon HD 4670 1GB 128-bit DDR3 video card back in my 6 core. It wouldn't recognize my monitor and while I could force the proper resolution, it wouldn't always work on bootup.

BTW I do agree with you on Audio specs. At best most are misleading, and many manufacturers simply lie about them and make claims that aren't true. If I had a Dollar for every one I ever tested that failed it's published specs, I would have a tidy sum today!

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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rick5446
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22. March 2011 @ 02:36 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Well I've tried 2 different Drives, 4 different USB PORTS ...ALL to No Avail, it still wants to list my BlacX as a CD Drive..The only one out of 8,.Why this particular one, just don't know.I've just D/L the drivers from THERMALTAKE have to wait till morning to reboot and see if that works
THANKS EVERYBODY FOR YOUR HELP
Hey Russ good luck with your NEW Monitor, let us know how you like it..I just,last week got my 23.5 ASUS LED Mon and am luving it...VERY CRISP
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22. March 2011 @ 04:26 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by rick5446:
Well I've tried 2 different Drives, 4 different USB PORTS ...ALL to No Avail, it still wants to list my BlacX as a CD Drive..The only one out of 8,.Why this particular one, just don't know.I've just D/L the drivers from THERMALTAKE have to wait till morning to reboot and see if that works
THANKS EVERYBODY FOR YOUR HELP
Hey Russ good luck with your NEW Monitor, let us know how you like it..I just,last week got my 23.5 ASUS LED Mon and am luving it...VERY CRISP
Thanks Rick. Glad you like the Monitor. I knew you would!

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


ddp
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22. March 2011 @ 17:49 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
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22. March 2011 @ 18:21 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by ddp:
have a read of this. http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-216/building_a_custom_computer-891575/
Thank you very much ddp :)



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
ddp
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22. March 2011 @ 18:37 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
no problem. do a search of his nic so you can read his other threads & you'll see why i posted this link.
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22. March 2011 @ 18:44 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by ddp:
no problem. do a search of his nic so you can read his other threads & you'll see why i posted this link.
LOL, I already understand ;)

Perhaps you remember Rawstyles.



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. March 2011 @ 18:44

ddp
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22. March 2011 @ 18:47 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
i remember him.
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22. March 2011 @ 20:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by omegaman7:
Originally posted by ddp:
no problem. do a search of his nic so you can read his other threads & you'll see why i posted this link.
LOL, I already understand ;)

Perhaps you remember Rawstyles.
Oman7,

I was going to ask him if he planed to cook hot dogs and burgers with that 5.5GHz i7! LOL Then I was going to be really crass, and ask if it was air cooled! ROFL!

Russ

PS Check your hotmail!

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


ddp
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22. March 2011 @ 23:10 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
nothing in my hotmail except for non-eatable spam.
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22. March 2011 @ 23:48 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by ddp:
nothing in my hotmail except for non-eatable spam.
ddp,

I'm not sure how that happened. The message was for Oman7!

Sorry,
Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


ddp
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22. March 2011 @ 23:54 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
i know that, just pulling your leg.
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25. March 2011 @ 02:08 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
For those involved with my Hard drive situation, here's a little something interesting. My primary windows machine seems to think that the 5000AAKS drive that I'm working on, is completely empty. When windows acknowledges the drive for the brief moment that it does, it shows 100% free space. THat's rather curious. There's some definite miscommunication going on here...
While I realize that I should give up on the drive, I really don't like that idea :p That would make me a quitter. Besides, I wanna save the day here ;)



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
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25. March 2011 @ 02:32 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by omegaman7:
For those involved with my Hard drive situation, here's a little something interesting. My primary windows machine seems to think that the 5000AAKS drive that I'm working on, is completely empty. When windows acknowledges the drive for the brief moment that it does, it shows 100% free space. THat's rather curious. There's some definite miscommunication going on here...
While I realize that I should give up on the drive, I really don't like that idea :p That would make me a quitter. Besides, I wanna save the day here ;)
Oman7,

Since it's a single platter drive, I would say there is physical damage to the disk. sounds like it dropped a head!

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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25. March 2011 @ 02:41 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I very well doubt it is a head crash issue and number of platters, one or three or five, is pretty much irrelevant really. It sounds more like the controller board in the drive is going bad but that is also tough to say exactly. Not a good sign regardless.
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25. March 2011 @ 03:13 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I'm really wondering if a chip on the PCB went south, causing the burned area...
It was really dusty in there, and this particular Hard drive was on top of the other drive. Ergo, not too much air flow for it. With the HAF932 I have the wonderful front fan cooling the HDD bay :) I'll now insist on all builds, that there be a hard drive fan.



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
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25. March 2011 @ 03:21 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Not to much air flow plus heat rises so that could be it. It is really nice to have a fan in front of the drive bay I have several systems like that. Your WD drive runs pretty cool, I have several of that exact drive, and I'm surprised that it has started to go bad, but it happens.

If the drive was out of warranty and if you had another drive of the same make not in warranty you could swap the controller boards in order to try and recover any data on the drive but this is a risky operation and if you screw up you might wast your other drive.

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 25. March 2011 @ 03:26

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25. March 2011 @ 04:07 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
How would it waste the other drive? I have a buddy, that has the other AAKS drive that I bought. I wonder if its PCB is compatible. What I can do, is image his drive, attempt to recover data from the faulty drive with his PCB, and then put it back on his drive. If it's screwed up, I can replace his drive. I'm probably gonna end up paying something for this anyway...

Oh my god!!! My brother has the AAKS(a second one)!!! I can have this fixed tomorrow if they're compatible! Man, I've bought too many drives. Is that possible? LOL!!!



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 25. March 2011 @ 04:25

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25. March 2011 @ 05:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
I very well doubt it is a head crash issue and number of platters, one or three or five, is pretty much irrelevant really. It sounds more like the controller board in the drive is going bad but that is also tough to say exactly. Not a good sign regardless.
Mr-Movies,

With all due respect, the tell-tale is the empty drive, which means the bios chip is intact, but the file allocation isn't. It's just reading the raw drive spec. In 22 years of building computers, I've only see this a few times, and all the indications are that there is physical damage to the drive, more than likely caused by head contact with the platter. It would also explain why the drive vanishes after a few seconds of running. I suspect that a head has gone dead short and caused the burns dead shorting to the platter. It would also explain the power draw from the drive and the burning on the controller board. Even if the controller chip burned out, it wouldn't burn the board where the burn occurred. Generally there's just a small puff of smoke and the chip dies, without any further damage. The fact that the drive runs and identifies itself tells me it's not the controller because when the chip does burn out they are always totally dead, and don't even spin up, because it needs the chip to tell it to spin up and then un-park the heads. That plus the chip itself could never draw enough power to cause the Damage that Oman7 showed me earlier.

Respectfully,
Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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25. March 2011 @ 05:38 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
If the head had hit the platters, wouldn't smart statistics say so(Reallocated sector counts)? Because this failure has been progressively getting worse for about 2 weeks now. And last time the drive was working-ish the day before yesterday, the smart statistics checked out ok. I'm not trying to argue. I'm trying to understand ;) In any case, we have another AAKS drive on hand, to attempt to swap PCB's. We just can't throw away 2yrs of pics, without exhausting all options. Short of spending a ridiculous amount of money, to have a professional take it in a clean room, and do their thing ;)

Russ, I entertained the idea, that if a chip/capacitor/diode/etc were bad enough, it could send inappropriate amounts of voltage, causing burns. Granted this would be a rare worse case scenario ;)



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This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 25. March 2011 @ 05:40

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25. March 2011 @ 05:57 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by omegaman7:
If the head had hit the platters, wouldn't smart statistics say so(Reallocated sector counts)? Because this failure has been progressively getting worse for about 2 weeks now. And last time the drive was working-ish the day before yesterday, the smart statistics checked out ok. I'm not trying to argue. I'm trying to understand ;) In any case, we have another AAKS drive on hand, to attempt to swap PCB's. We just can't throw away 2yrs of pics, without exhausting all options. Short of spending a ridiculous amount of money, to have a professional take it in a clean room, and do their thing ;)

Russ, I entertained the idea, that if a chip were bad enough, it could send inappropriate amounts of voltage, causing burns. Granted this would be a rare worse case scenario ;)
Oman7,

I'm only supposing that, because it's the most common thing that causes these type of problems. You could get the same symptom with a shorted drive motor, or if the spindle froze. Whatever it is, the drive itself was pulling the power. I'm mildly surprised that it didn't trip your PSU. Then again, the power comes from the PCIe bus, so who knows there. If you plan to recover data, the cheapest I've ever seen was $1400, and that was for a 160GB drive. The particular Lawyer that owned it was too cheap and turned down the option of a RAID mirror, something I recommend for all professional people who can little afford to lose all their data.

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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25. March 2011 @ 06:26 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The only time I've ever seen a drive show up as empty, as opposed to corrupt data when accessing a file, or not showing up as even formatted, is when a logic problem has occurred, usually with BIOSes. This was a big problem for Seagates a while back. I've seen quotes of around $600 for a 500GB drive, but still very pricey.

RAID is all well and good, but no substitute for a proper backup. If you don't have an off-site backup of the really important data, then it's your own fault when you lose it.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 25. March 2011 @ 06:27

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25. March 2011 @ 07:36 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by theonejrs:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
I very well doubt it is a head crash issue and number of platters, one or three or five, is pretty much irrelevant really. It sounds more like the controller board in the drive is going bad but that is also tough to say exactly. Not a good sign regardless.
Mr-Movies,

With all due respect, the tell-tale is the empty drive, which means the bios chip is intact, but the file allocation isn't. It's just reading the raw drive spec. In 22 years of building computers, I've only see this a few times, and all the indications are that there is physical damage to the drive, more than likely caused by head contact with the platter. It would also explain why the drive vanishes after a few seconds of running. I suspect that a head has gone dead short and caused the burns dead shorting to the platter. It would also explain the power draw from the drive and the burning on the controller board. Even if the controller chip burned out, it wouldn't burn the board where the burn occurred. Generally there's just a small puff of smoke and the chip dies, without any further damage. The fact that the drive runs and identifies itself tells me it's not the controller because when the chip does burn out they are always totally dead, and don't even spin up, because it needs the chip to tell it to spin up and then un-park the heads. That plus the chip itself could never draw enough power to cause the Damage that Oman7 showed me earlier.

Respectfully,
Russ
Actually not, in 30+ years in the industry if there was a head crash you would still read some drive space typically unless all heads were dead, highly unlikely. The fact that it works then doesn't totally points to the controller. Sorry but I disagree with you and the platter numbers especially, even a single platter drive has multiple heads not all crash at once typically. You don't always have a small puff of smoke when a PCB goes down, they can fade, work and then not being very intermittent and very difficult to trouble shoot some times. There are many things that can go wrong, microchips, caps, diodes, and even resistors amongst other stuff.

It is true though that if the drive motor goes out that you would see this problem too. That is to easy to derive though as the drive would obviuosly not be spinning, no gyro effect or spindle noise.

Sorry Russ,
Steve

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 25. March 2011 @ 07:41

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25. March 2011 @ 09:03 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
Originally posted by theonejrs:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
I very well doubt it is a head crash issue and number of platters, one or three or five, is pretty much irrelevant really. It sounds more like the controller board in the drive is going bad but that is also tough to say exactly. Not a good sign regardless.
Mr-Movies,

With all due respect, the tell-tale is the empty drive, which means the bios chip is intact, but the file allocation isn't. It's just reading the raw drive spec. In 22 years of building computers, I've only see this a few times, and all the indications are that there is physical damage to the drive, more than likely caused by head contact with the platter. It would also explain why the drive vanishes after a few seconds of running. I suspect that a head has gone dead short and caused the burns dead shorting to the platter. It would also explain the power draw from the drive and the burning on the controller board. Even if the controller chip burned out, it wouldn't burn the board where the burn occurred. Generally there's just a small puff of smoke and the chip dies, without any further damage. The fact that the drive runs and identifies itself tells me it's not the controller because when the chip does burn out they are always totally dead, and don't even spin up, because it needs the chip to tell it to spin up and then un-park the heads. That plus the chip itself could never draw enough power to cause the Damage that Oman7 showed me earlier.

Respectfully,
Russ
Actually not, in 30+ years in the industry if there was a head crash you would still read some drive space typically unless all heads were dead, highly unlikely. The fact that it works then doesn't totally points to the controller. Sorry but I disagree with you and the platter numbers especially, even a single platter drive has multiple heads not all crash at once typically. You don't always have a small puff of smoke when a PCB goes down, they can fade, work and then not being very intermittent and very difficult to trouble shoot some times. There are many things that can go wrong, microchips, caps, diodes, and even resistors amongst other stuff.

It is true though that if the drive motor goes out that you would see this problem too. That is to easy to derive though as the drive would obviuosly not be spinning, no gyro effect or spindle noise.

Sorry Russ,
Steve
Steve,

I was thinking more in terms of a head shorted to it's housing, case, or what ever you call it, contacting the platter. I was not made aware that this was an ongoing problem, either. Here's the picture Kevin sent me. Why Windows won't let you open it with Windows Picture and fax viewer, is beyond me. It will only open with Windows Media Player, which sucks for pictures! You can't even select it from the list because it's not there and I cannot locate it in Windows!
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/7591/burnedpcb.jpg

I had to cut the resolution in half or it wouldn't fit on the screen. Looking at it now, is that Nicotine stains or burnt? I see other places on the board, particularly around the big hole on the left that show the same color. I wish he had taken a picture of the complete board, both sides, preferably a lot smaller than what he sent me. I posted a direct view so it didn't tweak everyone's screen.

My background is electronics, which I decided on when I was 7, back in the days of tubes, so I've been at it for almost 60 years. My experience with computers goes well beyond PCs, having spent the last 30+ years in Medical and Dental electronics. Some of the equipment I work on involves computer power hundreds of times more powerful than the best and fastest computer you can buy, with up to 64 Microprocessors. CT scans, Full motion 3D X-Ray, MRI, you name it, I've probably worked on it!

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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25. March 2011 @ 09:12 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Those are unusual marks, if they were burn marks, I'd expect to see at least some damage to the PCB itself, but nothing is evident. Windows photo viewer reads the image fine for me (though I did have a problem with it recently)
I must admit though, I'm struggling to see what I'm actually looking at, since I haven't taken a PCB off a disk before.



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updated 10-Dec-13
 
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