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Power tap for some LEDs.. Will it draw too much current?
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ZiG
Newbie
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28. March 2006 @ 19:45 |
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I'd like to add some LEDs to my ps2 but I dont want to draw too much current from it. The LEDs I have are 10mA. I know of tons of places to get 3.3v but nothing higher than that. I'd like a 5v source if there is one. The important part of this question though, is still will it draw too much current?
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Senior Member
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28. March 2006 @ 23:11 |
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it in all honesty sound to me like you don't have a clue as to what your doing and need to do more research before you procede.........
you cant just pop a LED across voltage without a current limiting resistor that matches the specifications of the diode to the amount of the supply voltage. there are plenty of 5v locations on the MOBO and on the power supply of the fat console you can get 12v.
kc
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 05:29 |
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You're right, I'm quite new to this stuff. Which is why I'm asking here.
So if the LEDs are 10mA and their acceptale voltage range seems to be somewhere between 3 and 5 volts, then what?
Oh and it's a V1. Forgot to mention.
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Senior Member
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29. March 2006 @ 08:12 |
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you don't comprehend how an LED works, voltage has no direct influence on the LED other then you need enough to overcome forward biasing, usually around 0.7 volts. the CURRENT LIMITING resister is what you use to set the current flow to match the demands of the supply voltage.
you can place any LED across the wall voltage of your home (110v US/220v Eur) as long as you use the proper limiting resister. the version 1 consoles are a pain in the ass to get to the power supply board due to the stacked board setup they were designed with.
kc
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 08:13 |
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After entering some different search terms, I read several useful pages on the matter. It seems that I COULD use a voltage limiter but I don't think it necessary. The voltage of the LEDs I have match the supply, so it should be fine. And I did already know you have to match them. I already have. But I'm still drawn back to my original question; will the ps2 handle the current draw?
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Senior Member
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29. March 2006 @ 08:37 |
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Quote:
It seems that I COULD use a voltage limiter but I don't think it necessary.
NO, you limit CURRENT, in your case 10 mA. i would NOT recommend tapping off any 3.3v source and if you use a 5v tap then limit the number of LEDs to no more then 3. I'd recommend grabbing 12v off the power supply board instead.
kc
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 10:48 |
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Oops, didnt see you had responded a second time. My pda didnt show it...
Anyway, I appreciate the help. You said it's a pain in the ass to get to the power supply, and then reccomended that I do so. Ok, if I can find some diagrams, I'll go for it. I also have a lot of resistors around here, so I guess I can just calculate which one I need. I plan on running 4 LEDs.
Ok, off to find diagrams..
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Senior Member
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29. March 2006 @ 11:03 |
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believe me the V1-V3 consoles with the stacked and pinned MOBOs are defiantly a pain in the ass but if you insist on putting LEDs in it, i would not recommend using anything but a 12v supply from the power supply or tap off a 110v line in voltage. the led will regulate the AC voltage to a half wave, you can use a cap to buffer out the 30 Hz blink and then you could run a truck load of LEDs and make your PS2 glow like the sun if you so choose.
on the resisters if you run the LEDs in parallel use a single resister for each LED, if you run them in series you can use a single one of the proper wattage/value
kc
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 11:19 |
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Haha I dont think I'd want to have to wear sunglasses when I look at it. The purpose is just to have a blue glow come from a few choice places. And then there's the issue of physically placing a capacitor to correct the frequency. Well I have the power supply out now, and am looking for diagrams that'll show the best place to get the 12v from, without discharging that 200v cap sitting in there.. :P
Btw sorry for being such a noob about all this. I'm a car guy, not much of an electronics guy, but I'd like to learn. Which is one of the reasons I want to do this. (and I just bought a modchip for it that should be here in a few days, and in true modder fashion, I thought 'why not?'
I just hate being the one asking the questions and not answering them as I do on all my car forums. heh.
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Senior Member
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29. March 2006 @ 11:25 |
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you have no electronic or soldering experience and your going to mod a V1, good luck.......i've modded just over 300 PS2s and I'd much rather do 20 V4 or later then a V1-V3 the disassembly of the MOBO stack to install a single wire is more tedious then it's wroth.
and that cap is just rated for 200v, it's self discharged when power is removed. flip off the switch in the back and you can watch the red standby light dim as it does.
kc
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 12:33 |
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I do have soldering experience. And you work with what you got. I bought mine the first day it came out. That's what I've got to work with. And if there's one thing I've learned from working on my T/A all time is that you cant be afraid to get into something hard, because the reward is well worth it. But you have to do it right, which is why I am asking about everything I dont know. And I really appreciate all the help you are giving me.
You wouldnt happen to know of any diagrams of the power supply that indicate a suitable place to take 12v from, would you?
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 12:37 |
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Oh, and over 300 worked on? Wow. As for taking apart the mobo stack, I seem to recall somewhere in my readings that one or more modchips now eliminate that wire? I'll have to check the one I bought..
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Senior Member
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29. March 2006 @ 15:23 |
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only 12v diagram i know of is for a V4-V10 power supply. what I'd recommend is hooking the power back up and power it on and use a digital (high impedance) volt meter to test for a 12v point off a power transistor.
kc
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norcalmo
Suspended permanently
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29. March 2006 @ 19:34 |
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@KC36330
The PSU on the V1-V3's are very similar to the rest of the fat PS2's. The PSU on a V1-V3 is not part of the motherboard and can be pulled off very easily. The part you car referring to is the daughter board. The motherboard and the daughter board on the V1 and V2 are soldered together and can be difficult to remove. But to get 12V will be easy for him as he can pull it directly from the PSU without having to mess with the mobo/daughter board.
Also yes the Crystal Chip and DMS4 can both be used on the V1-V2 with out having to desolder the daughter boards. There is an alternative scex point on the v1/2 boards that can be used and the CC and DMS4 have there own on-board resonator so getting at the back for the clock wire is not needed also. The Infinity can even be used an some configurations of the V2 with out having to get at the back for the clock wire. The V3 the daughter board and mobo pull apart ... Sony wised up on that model finally.
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 20:04 |
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I have detailed disassembly instructions, and desoldering the mobo from the daughter shouldn't be too hard. The chip I bought is a DUO2 GT and they have no mentioning of a means to circumvent desoldering the boards, but oh well.
I found a couple of resistors that I confirmed with my dmm to be 220 ohm, so if I use one of those with 2 leds it should be fine. If I power it up to look for 12 v of the power supply, will I have to reconnect everything or can I just plug the power supply in to the wall and flip the switch? I imagine I cant, but..
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norcalmo
Suspended permanently
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29. March 2006 @ 20:10 |
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Yes in fact you can do that.... the switch is connected directly to the PSU and you can turn it on with out it plugged into the PS2. Just be careful.
Hopefully this wont be seen as spam ... but here is a link to my gallery ... specifically the V2 section. You will see a few that didnt need to be soldered to the back.
http://www.norcalmods.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5
Also the Duo2 GT is a very buggy chip good luck with it. The old Duo2 and Duo2 SE was the best Duo made.
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 21:46 |
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Those installs look really good!
I chose the duo2 gt largely for it's price. College does that to a person. Most of what I have read indicated it was a good idea, but we'll see how it goes.
Just a thought: once I turn the power supply off, if it's not connected to anything, wont that make the cap hold it's charge?
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norcalmo
Suspended permanently
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29. March 2006 @ 21:53 |
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Oh yeah and it will shock the sh*t out of you if you touch the leads.
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ZiG
Newbie
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29. March 2006 @ 22:40 |
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Ok so I need a safe way of discharging it.
Speaking of shocking, I'll never forget that Toyota I had to work on.. the one with the melted spark plug wire insulation...
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ZiG
Newbie
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30. March 2006 @ 08:05 |
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Alright. I think I'm all squared away now. I think I have everything I need (except a resistor big enough to discharge the cap properly, but that's easy enough to find). Thanks very much for the help.
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norcalmo
Suspended permanently
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30. March 2006 @ 13:54 |
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I wouldnt worry about discharging the cap at all.
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