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afterdawn.com > forums > consoles > nintendo wii - general discussion > led lights only coming on for a second upon powering on d2ckey
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led lights only coming on for a second upon powering on d2ckey
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ROB121375
Newbie
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25. February 2008 @ 10:19 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I was just wondering about the led lights on the d2c key. I had just recently bought a d2c key and fles pcb about a week ago. I had it installed by my brother last night and it won't work from what I can tell. I've tried different media and burn speeds still no dice. It still plays originals which I'm glad about. I used a volt meter to make sure that none of the pins were bridged. I also made sure all of the solder spots had continuity. so im pretty sure the install is fine. well I guess my question is this, the led lights on the d2ckey only light up for a few seconds when I power on the unit then shut off. I thought the blue light was supposed to stay on all the time and flash red when patching. I have no lights. do I have a bad d2ckey? any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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meyoumeme
Newbie
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15. March 2008 @ 21:17 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I have the same issue, any fix found?
freddyman
Junior Member
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16. March 2008 @ 04:18 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Unfortunately checking for continuity isn't good enough when dealing with digital components. You need to check the resistivity from pin to pin, D2C to D2Ckey. They should all be less than one Ohm. Anything more and you have a bad solder, or a bad flex pcb trace. Also check for bridging between not only the pins the D2Ckey connects to, but also the pins surrounding them on the D2C. If you have an original D2Ckey and not a clone it should work fine. On rare occasions, people get bad D2Ckeys, and you can usually return them for a new one. But if they check it and it's fine, you have to pay for them to send the same one back to you. Hope that helps.
sufulouie
Newbie
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8. July 2008 @ 21:53 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I have the same problem with a d2ckey I just installed. Tried it with the flex pcb as well as just wires. I've done a few successfully before , but this one appears to be a bad d2ckey. Has anyone found a fix or resolution to this problem?

- Sufu Louie
meyoumeme
Newbie
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8. July 2008 @ 22:11 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
check the components on the board. I had a missing capacitor.
sufulouie
Newbie
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9. July 2008 @ 00:02 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I don't see any missing parts on the d2ckey. Is there a specific capacitor that you changed, and do you know what the part values are for the other capacitors and resistors on the board. I will try to replace them, just in case I have some bad components.
Here are the details to my problem:
1. The Wii is pretty new, recently purchased. I have read many post to try to figure out if it's a d2c or d2c2, and from what I have learned it appears to be a d2c. (it has GC2-D2C and serial number underneath that which makes it a d2c according to the posts I've read).
2. Both led's light up for a few seconds upon powering up the Wii.
3. When an original game is inserted, the blue LED lights up and flashes as the disk spins and the game boots up fine.
4. When a backup (super mario galaxy or others) is inserted, no lights turn on and the disk spins up for a couple of seconds and then stops and I get a disk read error. The back up disks work on another Wii moded with another d2ckey that I have previously done.

Do I have a bad d2ckey or is the Wii a d2c2 even if it has the serial number underneath the GC2-D2C? How can I tell what I have? Wii tracker tells me based on the serial number that there is a 50% chance its a d2c.

- Sufu Louie
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meyoumeme
Newbie
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9. July 2008 @ 06:25 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I'm not sure how to tell what you have.

I believe I had all the capacitors on the board but one was so poorly soldered or was cracked that when I pushed it a bit it fell off. I then replaced it with something like 200 nF, I can't remember, but then it worked flawlessly after that. (after installing it 3 times prior)

Just retouch all solder joints on the board (resistors, caps, ics) and maybe it will work then, then if not redo all the wiring and test for continuity and adjacent shorting. You may also check the region setting resistor too.
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