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Need help building a budgeted gaming system (amateur)
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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24. December 2008 @ 10:53 |
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The hissing sound is probably the PSU's capacitors charging up, that's perfectly normal to hear.
Agreed with JaguarGod, not having connected the front panel connectors correctly is far more common than faulty components.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 13:16 |
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I'm sure I connected the front panel - I checked it many times.
I think I may have found the problem - as I was taking everything out of my case - when I unplugged the MAIN power supply wire that goes from my PSU to my mobo (the 20+4) wire... the 4 wire was fine .. and so was 19 out of the 20 holes on the wire of my PSU - but one hole was empty ... do you think this is the reason for the lack of power??
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 13:24 |
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The missing pin is #10 (+12V) ... that sounds important.
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Member
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24. December 2008 @ 13:36 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Cases: Go Antec. Rosewill are a low-cost, low-quality company. Antec are the opposite. Realistically though, the Nine Hundred case is overkill for most builds. You're better off buying the Three Hundred and E8400 separately, you don't lose much, and you still save money.
What do you mean the antec 900 case is overkill?
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 14:04 |
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Nvm, I wasn't looking at the pin alignment close enough and I had it backwards, the missing pin is #17 - which is GND - so that should not matter right?
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Member
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24. December 2008 @ 15:01 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
The HD4830 can 'handle' Crysis. On your system, a playable frame rate will be achieved at 1280x1024 with most settings high, one or two at medium. To run all high, you will have to drop the resolution to at least 1280x800, if not 1024x768. To run at 1680x1050 you will have to drop to all medium detail.
My good friend runs Crysis on 1680x1050 at High shaders, and Very High everything else. No choppiness at all on the second level with bombs dropping all around. This is with a 4850 stock clock speeds.
xfx 790i P08 Bios
Q6600 at 3.4GHz
Patriot Viper DDR3 1600MHz 7-7-7-20-1T
GTX280 710 core clock i think
Dual boot system with:Ubuntu 64-bit,Vista Ultimate 64-bit,
Electrical Eng, Gamer, and Heavy PC user.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 15:06 |
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Help!
I made some progress.
Here is what I did.
I followed this guide exactly - http://www.pcmech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132409
and it didn't work - then I decided to follow the guide exactly AND plug the power switch from my case onto the MOBO - this lit up the mobo, i heard the fans spinning and everything was great! it stayed on for about 5 seconds, shut off, and then did it all over again a few seconds later.. it was a cycle. I'm not sure what this means but I think I have made some progress - what should I do from here?
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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24. December 2008 @ 17:22 |
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Kenny536: Glad you made some progress. Grounds aren't always compulsary. The continuous shutdown loop means your PC isn't able to enter POST. Check your RAM, graphics card connection and graphics card power (if applicable).
eddie456: No PC system has ever yet been made that needs as much airflow as the Antec 900 provides even on Medium, let alone high.
TheftAuto: Now try 'Core', 'Paradise Lost' and 'Reckoning' - you'll barely get half the frame rate you get during the other sections.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 17:26 |
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I think the problem is something related with the CPU. I unplugged the PSU cables (CPU1 and CPU2) so that there is no power to the CPU and I also unplugged the CPU fan. I then turned on the computer and now the power stays on. I left it on for about 30 seconds on two separate occasions without any interruption in power. I did not leave it on for more than 30 seconds because I'm not sure if it is safe to do so without having power to the CPU and the CPU fan not being on. Is that safe? Does this mean that the problem is CPU-related?
Here is what the situation is:
I have the everything out of the case.. the mobo is on top of the box it came in .. I have the PSU connected to the mobo, I have the case power switch and the other front panel cords connected to the mobo, one of the case fans connected to the PSU.. the CPU is on the mobo with the heatsink installed. I also have one stick of RAM in there.
That's it.
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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24. December 2008 @ 17:31 |
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A PC will not function at all with the CPU power connector removed. You can't gauge anything from tests if that is not plugged in.
I would strongly suggest assembling the components in the case, sometimes you encounter problems when testing setups with no case.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 17:37 |
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Well that is what I did initially when there was no power.
Then I followed the guidelines on here : http://www.pcmech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132409
I still did not receive power but when I did those guidelines and ALSO plugged in the PWR switch from my case to the mobo, that's when I got the power ( still turned on and off ). And then like I said, when I took power away from the CPU, the cyclic power was gone and I had continuous power.
I'll put everything back in the case but I'm not sure if it's gonna help.
Also, what do you mean my PC isn't able to enter POST? What does POST mean?
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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24. December 2008 @ 17:42 |
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The power switch to the case is compulsary, or the button won't work. The CPU power connector is compulsary, or the PC won't work. The power cycling is the motherboard telling the PC to shut down. It's not like a fault is causing you 'not to get continuous power' - when you unplug the CPU power, the system is unable to tell itself to shut down. The reason for it shutting down is what you need to find.
POST = Power on self test, or the process that happens before, and during the black screen you see before your operating system loads.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 18:41 |
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Oh .. so it's not the CPU then? Man.. this is so frustrating.. it can be anything.. PSU.. CPU.. even the motherboard that is defective.. or it could be something stupid that I have overlooked..I am running out of ideas.
Does it mean anything that the CPU Fan starts up slower than the rest of the parts when the power turns on?
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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24. December 2008 @ 18:56 |
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In this link: someone has a similar problem - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/248612...rns-shuts-turns
and one person said this:
Quote:
Ahh...the endless boot cycle from Gigabyte! Those motherboards are prone to this problem.
This is a common issue with this board, and many people has pinned the problem to the ram. It appears Crucial ram isn't very compatible with this board. To fix this problem, just use different ram.
I use Patriot ram, and I haven't had any issues with it...yet. I have this board too. The best way to solve this problem is RMA the board and get a different one.
Although I have Gskill RAM.. I don't think the RAM is at fault.. but he did say GBYTE mobos are prone to this problem..although his mobo was a D3SL.. mine is UD3R.. at this point.. I know the problem has to be with the CPU, PSU, or the motherboard... nothing else is connected.
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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24. December 2008 @ 20:45 |
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I've not had it, but I use Corsair RAM which has good compatibility. I don't think theonejrs has had any issues, and he uses G-Skill RAM to my knowledge.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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25. December 2008 @ 01:38 |
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It still may be power supply because every time the power turns off the PSU still makes that hissing sound.. i have the PSU separated from the mobo now so I know for sure that hissing sound is the PSU. Maybe it just does not have enough power to stay on? Although I'm unsure why it stays on continuously when I unplug the CPU power. Maybe because it is defective it does not have enough juice to continually power the CPU and mobo? This would explain why I had absolutely no power when I had everything connected like the hard drive and the DVD drive. The PSU couldn't handle it all. So maybe it is the PSU. I already ordered a new, different PSU from NewEgg (Corsair), they gave me free next day shipping so it is scheduled to be here Friday, but may probably get here on Monday because of the holidays. They are going to refund me on this OCZ.
But if it's not the PSU then what? I tell NewEgg that the mobo may be defected as well? If that doesn't fix it I call NewEgg again and say the CPU is defective?
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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25. December 2008 @ 04:02 |
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You said that the PC is on for about 5 seconds then starts the continuous reboot cycle. Could it be that the RAM is automatically being overclocked? Gigabyte has a performance profile enhancement that is compatible with some RAM. It could be misreading the RAM you have installed or maybe the RAM is not cable of producing the rated Clock Speed. When something is not overclocked properly, the motherboard should reboot and reset the settings, but if Default settings are not working, I guess that could start a continuous reboot cycle.
Try holding the Delete Key while the PC boots and see if you can access the BIOS.
It seems stupid, but just throwing out whatever I can think of now :P
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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25. December 2008 @ 18:54 |
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I don't really have the keyboard hooked up.. i had the monitor hooked up for a while but I didn't see anything... I just attributed that to the power not staying on longer than 5 seconds. I'll hook up the keyboard if you think that will work - but if you think it is the RAM's fault .. I tried taking out both sticks of RAM and it still showed the same result (along with testing one stick individually).
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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26. December 2008 @ 19:41 |
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Yeah - so it was the motherboard that was defected.
The new PSU came from newegg this afternoon - same result.
I drove to tigerdirect and bought a new motherboard, and now it's staying on! I'm glad that's over... hopefully I don't run into anymore problems. Thanks for your help.
I do have one more question though - the motherboard I bought from tiger direct was this one: Asus P5Q Green Motherboard - Intel P45, Socket 775, ATX, Audio, PCI Express 2.0, S/PDIF, Gigabit LAN, Firewire, USB 2.0, SATA, RAID
for 129.99 + 12$ tax... the P5Q-E was not in stock.
So my question is - is this motherboard fine? Because if it is not - what I could do is just use this one and tell Newegg to refund my defected motherboard and buy a new one from newegg and after it arrives in 2-3 days, I'll return this one to TigerDirect. Should I do that or this mobo fine? Here is the link to it.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/...0037&CatId=3790
Thanks.
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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26. December 2008 @ 20:07 |
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The P5Q should be alright, I just don't know how long it will last.
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gera229
Member
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26. December 2008 @ 23:28 |
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Sorry for my own questions but Which would cool better the antec 900 or the NZXT Tempest? I know the antec is steel and NZXT Tempest is steel/plastic. But does that matter? Thanks. Peace.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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27. December 2008 @ 02:04 |
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I have another problem.
I hooked everything up and the computer runs fine - but the first thing I do is run BIOS right? I cannot get to it.
According to my mobo manual - I just power it up and hold DEL.
I don't know why I can't get to it, it can be for one of three reasons:
1. The USB function is not working on the motherboard - the keyboard I bought is an illuminated one, so it turns blue when it is powered, but when I plug it into the USB, it doesn't turn blue - when I plug it into my laptop, it works perfectly fine. However, on my new build, if I plug in the USB halfway, at just the right amount, then it will illuminate.
2. Am I setting up the monitor wrong? From what I understand, I do not plug in the analog cord right? Only the digital? The monitor seems fine, the light is on and on the top left corner it keeps saying "Digital" and then "Analog" and keeps cycling through like that.
I don't know if the problem is that I cannot access BIOS because of my keyboard.. OR that I actually AM entering BIOS but I cannot see it because I am doing something wrong with my monitor.
I have no idea how I access BIOS.. i tried holding down DEL but it did not work. I tried using a PS2 keyboard also (although I think it is broken because none of the lights turn on).
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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27. December 2008 @ 13:52 |
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It clearly says in my Mobo manual.. hold down DEL key to access BIOS... but the thing is that the keyboard is not working.. at least I don't think it is.
As I said before, it will only light up if the USB cord is halfway in the USB Port.. but I don't believe that means it is working... I just went to wal-mart and bought a PS/2 keyboard.. I plugged that in and the keyboard still didnt light up.. however.. the PS/2 Keyboard lights (numlock, scrollock, etc.) stay on for a split second when I have the PS/2 plug HALF way in there.. just like the USB.. so whatever is wrong with the USB ports is also what is wrong with the PS/2 ports.
But I don't know if the USB/PS/2 ports are the problem... someone on another forum said "When your computer posts correctly, you will see text on your screen. It will tell you when to hold down the del key. "
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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27. December 2008 @ 14:28 |
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When you say everything runs fine, does this mean that your operating system was installed and you were able to boot?
If you do not see any sort of text or image at some point when turning on the PC, this means that there is still an issue.
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Kenny536
Junior Member
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27. December 2008 @ 14:39 |
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No - i cant install the OS until i get through the BIOS right?
Well, I am getting a screen - it says "digital, analog, digital, analog, and so on.. on the top left hand corner".. and if i hold the menu button it says "test good" instead...what am I exactly supposed to be seeing before the BIOS screen comes up?
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