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Help on 3 Red Rings - Did X-Clamp Fix, but still RRoD?
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Sythron
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21. May 2009 @ 00:28 |
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Ok so I purchased the RROD kit for the X-Clamp replacement and did it correctly. Cleaned the processors (GPU/CPU) to a seemingly mirror finish, reapplyed high quality thermal paste then did the Nylon washers on the board, metal washers on the outside, right screws (no drilling). I followed the guide pinned on here both video and text but when I turn on the Xbox I still get the 3 red lights.
I turned it on without fans or anything and got the 3 red rings and in 7 seconds got the 2 red rings so I waited for 2 1/2 minutes. I figured ok this is good, turned the console off and immediately took the board out from the case and tightened the screws holding the heat sinks a little more with a screw driver (they were hand tight before) let it sit for 25 minutes before connecting the fan, reconnecting power/hdmi cable and turning it on.
Still gives the 3 red lights and turns into 2. This console was working before and just gave RRoD one day nothing else was tampered. Never toweled, opened or anything before.
Can anyone at all please provide some insight?
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Senior Member
13 product reviews
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21. May 2009 @ 01:02 |
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There is no guarantee that the X-Clamp fix will work 100%. I did the X-Clamp on my buddy's 360, and it worked for 15min, then got the RRoD again.
I really don't get why people even try to do these fixes, when M$ offers a 3 year warranty if you get the RRoD. I mean even if you've modded the system, you can still send it in, and they will sometimes fix it.
I'm sorry that the X-Clamp didn't work for you, looks like you will need to send it into M$ and see if they will fix it!
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jcalton88
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21. May 2009 @ 01:43 |
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I would take the heatsink off the GPU, turn the system on, let it overheat while pressing the GPU heatsink down on top of the GPU. Do this a couple times(have to turn it on and off a couple times as the system will cut off after a few seconds). Then put the heatsink back on, tighten it down decent, you don't need to crank it down, if its too tight it will just warp the board and you will be right back where you started.
You gotta play with both of them, if the GPU heatsink is a little loose it will overheat, but if the CPU heatsink is too tight at the same time, it will RRoD too.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. May 2009 @ 01:46
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Sythron
Member
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22. May 2009 @ 00:11 |
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I dont now what else to do, how do some people do the repairs and everyone works? Have I messed up this unit?
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Senior Member
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22. May 2009 @ 00:21 |
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many of the repairs dont work- you hear more about the ones that do than the ones that dont so it seems like they all work.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. May 2009 @ 00:21
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jcalton88
Member
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22. May 2009 @ 01:23 |
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Originally posted by uturn68:
many of the repairs dont work- you hear more about the ones that do than the ones that dont so it seems like they all work.
All the fixes I have done have worked, granted some don't work forever, but they have worked.
I still agree though, I'm sure many do not work. But a lot of it I believe is patience and enough little tweaking. I had one that i worked on for hours but finally got it just right and it worked.
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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22. May 2009 @ 07:41 |
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AfterDawn Addict
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22. May 2009 @ 11:40 |
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Originally posted by uturn68:
many of the repairs dont work- you hear more about the ones that do than the ones that dont so it seems like they all work.
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Sythron
Member
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22. May 2009 @ 14:00 |
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Thanks for the replies it's been helpful. What I am going to try is redo the whole x-clamp fix and reapply the coolant. Then check it out.
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Junior Member
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22. May 2009 @ 15:19 |
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Artic Silver!
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oicurpn
Junior Member
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22. May 2009 @ 15:28 |
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this is what i did on two units and it worked fine
the reason this is not working is because of the presure between the chip and the heat sink they need to make contact fully so i modifyed the prosses. instead of placing metal washers i just used the nylon washers plus i did not place the screw threw the base of the xbox metal casing.
1) place the nylon washer on eash side of the circut board on all 8 holes. ( you will need 16 nylon washers )
2) put screws threw the circut board ( only the circut board not the metal base and circut board )and replace the heatsink's
3) if you like add a little lock tight ( optional ) then tighten thescrews snug.
4)place board back into the metal tray and power the unit back on the three ring should be gone. let the system turn to two ring wich is the code for overheating let it run for 1-2 min the shut the system off. after it cooks down pull the board out and tighten snug again.
screw the remaning screws back into the meatal plate to secure the board to the metal tray, reconect your fan and test the unit on your tv.
you should have no problems
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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22. May 2009 @ 17:03 |
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eh.......
Sorry guys, you know me i have to start out a thread like this with a sigh of frustration.
10 replies and nobody has even asked about the secondary error code.
So Sythron check out this link, it will help you identify your problem.
http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/663061
Let me know what secondary error code you get.
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Senior Member
2 product reviews
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23. May 2009 @ 08:21 |
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Well if it went from 3 lights to 2 lights after 7 seconds it overheated way too fast.
If the secondary code with 2 lights is:
0011: CPU Overheating (make sure you have enough pressure but not too much on the CPU)
0012: GPU Overheating (make sure you have enough pressure but not too much on the GPU)
0013: RAM Overheating (more than likely a cold solder joint under the RAM)
If your code with 3 lights was 0110 then your problem is the RAM, more commonly it's 0102 (usually GPU).
What is the error code on the 3 red lights?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 23. May 2009 @ 08:24
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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23. May 2009 @ 10:18 |
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3) if you like add a little lock tight ( optional ) then tighten thescrews snug.
what do you do if the fix didn't work? how are you supposed to get it back apart? lol
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jcalton88
Member
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23. May 2009 @ 10:52 |
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You can get loc-tite off pretty easily. As long as you don't over-do it that is. Just don't try Perma-Seal. You will NEVER get that off.
Was once changing the transmission filter on a truck and the guy had used Perma-seal on the bolts and around the transmission pan to stop any leaks. It took 4 people and two crowbars to get the pan off of it, and that was after we spent half the day fighting the bolts.
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Sythron
Member
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23. May 2009 @ 11:25 |
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Some good news. I redid the whole X-Clamp fix and it worked! I will just run the tests to make sure it will be working properly.
I got a second machine, older model (2006) and did the same fix and it went from 3 red lights down to 2 when turned on. It never gives 3 lights.
Tried the "baking trick" for 2 mins 30 seconds after the fix but I guess I will just need to redo it again?
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oicurpn
Junior Member
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23. May 2009 @ 11:39 |
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i lwft that out
after i did the fix my way i never got the three ring it ran perfectly i left the fan disconected then it went to 2 lights and i left the unit on for 1 1/2 min for the solder to liquify and re-atach the chip then shut off the system for 1/2 h. pluged the unit back into the tv and played for 4 h with no probs.
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Sythron
Member
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23. May 2009 @ 12:37 |
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The one I fixed now freezes and then goes RRoD but will go back one and give green lights again before it freezes and gives the RRODs.
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oicurpn
Junior Member
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23. May 2009 @ 13:10 |
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did you try the way i fixed mine
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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24. May 2009 @ 10:10 |
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Originally posted by jcalton88:
You can get loc-tite off pretty easily. As long as you don't over-do it that is. Just don't try Perma-Seal. You will NEVER get that off.
Was once changing the transmission filter on a truck and the guy had used Perma-seal on the bolts and around the transmission pan to stop any leaks. It took 4 people and two crowbars to get the pan off of it, and that was after we spent half the day fighting the bolts.
what color locktight you using, different colors are different strenghts. We used to use red on trannys and motors, and that was pretty much near impossible to get off.
@OP what is your error code when it decides to go RROD on you?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 24. May 2009 @ 10:12
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Sythron
Member
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24. May 2009 @ 12:46 |
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How do I check the error code?
And to oicurpn, I will try your method and report back today. I do have the black screws screwed into the motherboard through the metal casing (where the 2 X's are) right now but I'll remove them and the metal washers and just use the Nylon washers and see if I can run it for an hour + for the next couple of days without any problems.
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oicurpn
Junior Member
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24. May 2009 @ 16:31 |
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the blue mild lock tight
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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24. May 2009 @ 20:12 |
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Originally posted by Sythron:
How do I check the error code?
And to oicurpn, I will try your method and report back today. I do have the black screws screwed into the motherboard through the metal casing (where the 2 X's are) right now but I'll remove them and the metal washers and just use the Nylon washers and see if I can run it for an hour + for the next couple of days without any problems.
Originally posted by Ultimate RROD Thread *Sticky*:
1. First turn on the system showing the RROD and wait until the lights start flashing.
2. Then press and hold the wireless sync button, and while this button is pressed down, also press the eject button.
3. Now the lights will change corresponding to the first of the 4 digits in the secondary code. (4 lights = 0, 1 light = 1, 2 lights = 3, 3 lights = 3)
4. Press eject button 3 more times and record each number until you have a 4 digit number, and this is your secondary error code.
Now here are the possible causes/cures for each type of error code (keep in mind this information isn?t 100%, but it?s a very close estimate from tons of research)
0001 power supply problem
0002 Network Interface problem
0003 Power problem could be the PSU could be the GPU/CPU, somehow the console isn't getting clean power from the power supply.
0010 There is a problem with the Southbridge Chip usually dealing with how it connects to the mainboard (cold solder joint/bridged solder joints)
0011 CPU over heating - If you are receiving this error after disassembling your console make sure to all 8 of the heatsinc screws are tightened securely to the board/heatsink holes.
0012 GPU over heating
0013 RAM over heating
0020 (Not yet known, possibly overheating)
0021 This can be caused by two completely different things either:
A. DVD Drive Time out - Can be caused by problems with a firmware flash. This is also speculated to sometime be caused by a problem with the southbridge chipset on the motherboard based on how it connects to the DVD drive.
B. GPU error, generally caused by a poor connection to the mainboard (cold solder joints/bridged solder joints) See error 102 for more information
0022 CPU error, generally caused by a poor connection to the mainboard (cold solder joints/bridged solder joints). This can also be triggered by an error with the TSOP.
0023 (not yet known)
0030 Problem with temperature control
0031 (not yet known)
0032 (not yet known)
0033 (not yet known)
0100 (not yet known)
0101 (not yet known)
0102 Error in the "Digital Backbone" (CPU/GPU/RAM), this is usually caused by a cold solder joint between the GPU and the mainboard.
There are two theories to fixing this one deals with the "X" clamps that hold down the chips. The other involves re-Heating the chips. DO NOT attempt either of these if your console is still under warranty. If your console is still under warranty return it to the store where it was purchased or call MS to have it replaced.
[/list]0103 GPU Error this is usually caused by bridged solder points where the GPU connects to the mainboard. see error 0102 for more detailed information
0110 Ram error, this is caused by a cold or bridged solder joint on one of the Ram chips.
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0200 (not yet known)
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1000 Kernel can't be launched/signature in NAND Flash chip is broken! It could be possible after bad update. http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...p;#entry4156375 This might also be caused by a bad SATA cable.
1001 DVD Drive Error, either incorrect firmware or DVD Time out.
1002 (not yet known)
1003 Hard Drive Error... It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it
1010 Hard Drive Error, Can be caused buy a corrupt or missing eProm. See also E68 above
1011 (not yet known)
1012 (not yet known)
1013 (not yet known) possibly a dashboard update error
1020 (not yet known)
1021 (not yet known)
1022 There is high chance it's a scaler chip problem (the "ANA" or "HANA" chip near the AV cable connection) it can also be caused by a faulty AV cable so check that first. In some cases it is a problem with the GPU and may be repairable by doing the x-clamp replacement (see error 0102)
1023 DVD drive not connected, connect DVD drive to boot
1030 This error deals with the Ethernet port's controller chip, a dead chip may not cause the error but removing the Ethernet controller chip does, it may also be caused by other Ethernet related problems.
1031 (not yet known)
1032 (not yet known)
1033 it could be cpu/gpu related or it could be psu related, not much info is known for sure.
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1444 and up There is no "4" in the error codes four lights is a "0" go back and check your code again.
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Sythron
Member
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25. May 2009 @ 10:53 |
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Thanks, the error code I got was 0020
So I redid the WHOLE thing and now when I turn it on it goes straight to 2 rings. That is bad right, I need 3 rings to bake the 360.
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oicurpn
Junior Member
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25. May 2009 @ 11:52 |
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thats what happend to me now let it bake for 1.5 min then shut it down and let cool for a half hr then replace the air shroud so the heat sink get fresh air movement and turn it back on and you should get green lights
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