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2 Dricked drives 1 left to go
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taarno
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23. May 2009 @ 05:38 |
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Hi Guys
I need some expertise help desperately. I have spent the last two weeks reading tuts and forums but still must be missing something.
Experience with Xbox 360 = two weeks solid of reading then making a complete mess
Experience of computers pretty good i.e. built a few no probs
I am using the following
Jungle Flasher 1.51 - firmware Toolbox ver.4.8 Windows XP 32bit
Pci SATA Card = No Probs with this
XEcuter CK3 Pro
Hitachi 47dj iextreme 1.2
Hitachi 59dj (Bough New)
Hitachi 78kf (Bough New). You will see why 3 drives as you read on it?s a mess. HELP
The story: Bought a brand new Xbox 360 pre flashed Hitachi 47dj iextreme 1.2
Great for 18 month then drive would not recognise disks screen, would read put disk in. Xbox 360 console or unreadable Disc. Read forums cleaned lens +drive wheel to no avail. After reading more bought new Hitachi drive with the intention of just swapping the board from old drive to new Hitachi drive. When I received the new drive it was Hitachi 59dj not 47dj like old drive. Decided to go ahead and swap board and try it and it did not work. My conclusion was I had made a mistake because the drive was not identical. Tried to flash 47 board with ix59.bin did not work I think because at this stage I had not understood the relevance of transferring the key
Next stage I dumped the spoofed firmware with jungle flasher from original 47dj drive saved as
orig 47.bin
Opened this file with 360 firmwareToolbox ver.4.8 and the following is what shows.
Hitachi-GDR3120L-0047 ? ixtreme :47:V1.2
Rom size 256KB
**FIRMWARE SPOOFED AS VAD4444-43456C** (Not real info)
Key info (@4F00)
Key 128C61D232F232555AC343E323CD56C4 (Not real Key info)
I then dumped the Hitachi Firmware to an orig59.bin file and it read
Hitachi-GDR3120L-0059
Key info (@4F00)
Key 128C61D232F232555AC343E323CD56C4 (Not real Key info)
After this I think inexperience kicked in or maybe it already had started
I flashed the 59 with ix151-59.bin and of course hadn?t understood the relevance of the key info as when I opened this file in toolbox the key info was all zeros hence why it would not work on my xbox360 and please please please don?t tell me I am the first idiot to have done this. Any way I went back to reading about key info and first of all tried to copy and paste the orig key info from orig47.bin to the ix151-59.bin and of course this worked but not when I came to flash the spoof the 59 drive with this file and I know it is here and maybe earlier I made my mistakes as I still after two weeks of reading could not work out the right procedure from beginning to end for my circumstances i.e. 47 spoofed drive to a 59 new drive. So I will cut the story short now in case I am loosing even the more experienced of you.
Hardware probs began when I connected the 59 drive to my sata cable computer as it would just lock the PC. After changing computers and sata cards it still happened although I eventually realised it was not the PC or the sata card. I read more and it looked like it had to be the xbox360 drive I had bricked it.
So I went back to the 47 and tried to put this back to its original state and yes it bricked I think as it is locking up the PC.
Incidentally I was originally using the two wire trick for mode be and ended up with the dreaded RROD have just fixed this I think any way, Now using CK£ Pro, that on top of the drive issue has got me at a loss . Perhaps I should have posted earlier and asked for help instead my pride insisting on trying to work it out myself.
I am left with one untouched Hitachi 78kf (Bough New)
The .bin files as mentioned
Anybody with experience and patience to
First of all explain my mistakes and what I should have done, preferably without any sarcasm. But I will accept sarcasm if it helps you help me.
Explain if this situation can be resolved in idiot proof terms, this would be really appreciated
I may have missed out some other procedures I have tried, as I have lost track of what I have and haven?t done
Many thanks if you have got this far in reading my plight.
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Senior Member
2 product reviews
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23. May 2009 @ 08:14 |
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If you get JungleFlasher to dump your drive then spoof the dumped file to ix151-78.bin in the Firmware Tool 32 tab it should work.
Load source firmware (dumped file)
then Load target firmware (ix151-78.bin)
Then spoof source to target.
then proceed with flashing the 78fk drive
I think switching from one hitachi to another is more awkward and it might try to automatically locate a 47 file i'm not too sure.
Swapping boards should work though as they are the same drives (only difference is the boards in the drive so if you put a 47 board in a 78 the 78 becomes a 47.
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Senior Member
13 product reviews
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23. May 2009 @ 08:21 |
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Wow, seems like you've gone through some hell with trying to flash it! It's okay, we all started somewhere, and I remember when I first flashed my drive (back when it was just Xtreme), it took me like 2 weeks!
Anyways, the thing with the key of the drive is both the drive and system match. So if you put a drive with a different key then the system, M$ would know something is up! So that requires what is called "spoofing" the drive. Usually this is when someone replaces a drive model for a different model (i.e. LiteOn for BenQ).
Moving on, I found this in the tutorials.txt file that comes with Firmware Toolbox, and I think it may help you. It's to spoof a Hitachi Drive for a Samsung or different Hitachi Drive:
Quote:
TUTORIAL ON HOW TO SPOOF A HITACHI DRIVE AS A SAMSUNG DRIVE OR AS A HITACHI FROM OTHER VERSION
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Put your Hitachi drive in ModeB with SLAX or CrossWire Trick (Hitachi 78
and above only support SLAX Method) or Power on with tray open
- Make sure you attach the Drive to the PC with a Native Sata port because
some PCI Sata cards are not supported or even some USB-SATA adapters are
not working well at this moment. Does not harm to try
- Make sure your drive is visible and has a letter asigned on Windows
- Insert a DVD Movie or an XBOX/XBOX 360 game on the Hitachi DVD drive, it
does not matter wich, originals works better.
- Launch Toolbox
- Open the Firmware File you want to spoof (I recommend the final.bin, never
do changes to the original.bin as is the base fw)
- Now go to "Tools->Spoof Firmware",
- Choose the version as you want the fw report. Leave other options as is
- Please note that spoofing a drive as itself has the effect of UNSPOOFING it
- Click "APPLY SPOOF"
- Now the Main Window will show the spoofed details, go to
"Tools->Direct Drive Flash->Flash String ID (SPOOF DATA)"
- Make sure the Hitachi drive u want to flash is selected.
- Press the "Start Flashing" button and after a few seconds the thing is done
you can shutdown everthing and start testing the drive on the console.
Hope this helps you out! And don't be afraid to ask any questions! Me and a bunch of others should be able to assist you further!
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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23. May 2009 @ 08:33 |
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Thanx for reply steo2k8.
When you say load source file are you referring to the spoofed orig47.bin file from my 47drive. Just to clarify as I don?t want to make any more mistakes. And should I dump the 78 firmware first?
Regards?
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Senior Member
2 product reviews
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23. May 2009 @ 08:47 |
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Originally posted by taarno:
Thanx for reply steo2k8.
When you say load source file are you referring to the spoofed orig47.bin file from my 47drive. Just to clarify as I don?t want to make any more mistakes. And should I dump the 78 firmware first?
Regards?
yeah take your orig47 file and spoof it to ix151-78 as the target if you want it to read backups.
Thats if you have the ixtreme for hitachi downloaded.
You don't need to dump the new 78 drive as you won't need the key from it if you purchased the drive somewhere.
In case you're confused you are loading your orig47 then loading the 78 firmware you want to use as the target. pressing spoof. save the target to a file if you want to remember it's the one you're going to use. then have the 78 drive connected and ready and Flash it with the file you saved or have selected that contains the key from the 47 drive (as you spoofed it).
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 23. May 2009 @ 08:54
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AfterDawn Addict
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23. May 2009 @ 08:58 |
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not to rain on your parade, but if you do manage to brick the 78 and decide to buy another drive, just make sure to get a 47dj drive, and just take the PCB board from your original drive and put it in your new drive and it will be fine. however, once this is done, you should update the firmware to 1.51 so you can play the newer games that 1.2 wont let you.
Come talk with us on efnet at #elitemods !!! or just click ME
ALSO, DO NOT SEND ME MESSAGES ON LIVE REGARDING MODDING CONSOLES, OR HOW I PLAYED A CERTAIN GAME EARLY. I WILL NOT RESPOND. I WILL INSTEAD DELETE YOUR MESSAGE, AND BLOCK ALL COMMUNICATION FROM YOU. JUST SEND ME A PM ON HERE. |
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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23. May 2009 @ 09:21 |
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Thanx for that DavGerm4
This was one of the most recent tutorials I tried in fact this is the one I was using with toolbox when I bricked the second drive the 59.
I loaded the orig47.bin as source file and then the
(ix151-59.bin) for target firmware. I was using Toolbox and before flashing the drive. I used the option to see if there was any differences? in the two files and it reported back OK.
I then continued to flash the drive and about a third of the way through, the PC locked and the program would not respond. I couldn?t even close it in task manager. I had to restart the PC without the drive connected as it just kept hanging.
This makes me wonder had I already messed with the drive to much and I should have done something else with the drive first before I started this procedure as I had tried to flash it with jungle flasher earlier. Perhaps I should have returned the drive to stock?
Another point about the tutorial
It reads
1 Open the Firmware File you want to spoof (I recommend the final.bin, never
do changes to the original.bin as is the base fw)
Q:What is meant by final.bin as I only have orig47.bin Is this not the file?
2 Please note that spoofing a drive as itself has the effect of UNSPOOFING it
Q:What does this mean Spoofing and Unspoofing and does it matter that my original 47 drive was already spoofed when I bought it?
Struggling to grasp what is actually physically happening during the process from beginning to end.
Regards
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AfterDawn Addict
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23. May 2009 @ 09:25 |
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your orig.bin is your original FW, the final.bin would be the 'hacked' ixtreme version of your orig.bin. and yes it matters that your 47 was already spoofed. what was it spoofed to?
Come talk with us on efnet at #elitemods !!! or just click ME
ALSO, DO NOT SEND ME MESSAGES ON LIVE REGARDING MODDING CONSOLES, OR HOW I PLAYED A CERTAIN GAME EARLY. I WILL NOT RESPOND. I WILL INSTEAD DELETE YOUR MESSAGE, AND BLOCK ALL COMMUNICATION FROM YOU. JUST SEND ME A PM ON HERE. |
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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23. May 2009 @ 11:47 |
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Hi wabashman
As mentioned I originally bought the xbox pre flashed so the reason I say it is spoofed is when I dumped this drive to try and find the key it read as follows in toolbox
Hitachi-GDR3120L-0047 ? ixtreme :47:V1.2
Rom size 256KB
**FIRMWARE SPOOFED AS VAD4444-43456C** (Not real info)
Key info (@4F00)
Key 128C61D232F232555AC343E323CD56C4 (Not real Key info)
Note the **FIRMWARE SPOOFED AS VAD4444-43456C** (Not real info) although it starts with VAD this is the only file I have as it was flashed by the company I bought it from and I believe they are closed now for talks with the policeman.
Regards
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AfterDawn Addict
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23. May 2009 @ 16:28 |
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Ok, someone relaced a BENQ with a Hitachi. Now you must take your new Hitachi and spoof it to a BENQ with the same key.
You must first flash the "spoof" and key before you flash ixtreme (with Jungleflasher anyway)
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AfterDawn Addict
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23. May 2009 @ 16:36 |
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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24. May 2009 @ 08:03 |
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Thanx again guys for your patients and replies also cheers for those links bhetrick
Can I just run this past you: as I have a couple of questions
I am not sure about duping the new 78 drive should I or not as some say yes and some say not needed.
One of the reasons I ask, is this not the way to find out the key info of the 78 drive. Example @4B00
Because when it comes to loading target firmware how do I know what one to use as there are four to
Choose from
ix151-78-4b00.bin
ix151-78-4c30.bin
ix151-78-4d20.bin
ix151-78-4e10.bin
Sorry if this sounds dumb.
Also is toolbox ok for the 78 drives
Flashing my new replacement drive Hitachi 78FK from old Hitachi 47DJ
Stage 1: I load my orig47.bin as source file that contains the following info
Hitachi-GDR3120L-0047 ? ixtreme :47:V1.2
Rom size 256KB
**FIRMWARE SPOOFED AS VAD4444-43456C** (Not real info)
Key info (@4F00)
Key 128C61D232F232555AC343E323CD56C4 (Not real Key info)
Stage 2: I load my ix151-78-XXXX.bin When I find out which one
And spoof the firmware
Q: Does this process copy the key info @4F00 and key 128C61D232F232555AC343E323CD56C4 into
The ix151-78-XXXX.bin? or does it happen in stage four flash string id?
Stage3: Spoof
Stage 4: Direct Drive Flash->Flash String ID and spoof data
5 select my drive and then flash with the modified firmware file
Have I missed anything?
Or is this wrong
Regards
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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25. May 2009 @ 00:25 |
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hi guys
anybody help on my previous post, just want a bit of clarification before i give this another try
regards
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AfterDawn Addict
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25. May 2009 @ 08:51 |
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It's not necessary, but only takes a few seconds so you might as well, that way you can follow the process step-by-step.
1. copy key in to original firmware
2. make iX firmware from original
3. spoof iX firmware as old drive
Those are the main steps you want to follow. Now, depending on which program you decide to use for flashing, you just fill in the other little steps.
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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25. May 2009 @ 09:11 |
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thanx for that bhetrick
I think this is the bit thats throwing me.
As i have my orig47.bin am i putting these keys into an ix151-47.bin
after i have dumped the 78 drive or do you mean just copy the keys onto the 78 drive, and does dumping the drive phisically remove the firmware from the drive?
and as i am spoofing a 78 drive as a 47drive do i use the ix151-47.bin or have i got this tits end forward.
sorry if this sounds confusing but one post says use ix151-78.bin and having veiwed the 4 tuts from utube i read from that i should be using ix151-47.bin
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AfterDawn Addict
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25. May 2009 @ 09:28 |
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Originally posted by taarno:
thanx for that bhetrick
I think this is the bit thats throwing me.
As i have my orig47.bin am i putting these keys into an ix151-47.bin
after i have dumped the 78 drive or do you mean just copy the keys onto the 78 drive, and does dumping the drive phisically remove the firmware from the drive?
and as i am spoofing a 78 drive as a 47drive do i use the ix151-47.bin or have i got this tits end forward.
sorry if this sounds confusing but one post says use ix151-78.bin and having veiwed the 4 tuts from utube i read from that i should be using ix151-47.bin
If you're using a 78 drive to replace a 47, you load your original 47 fw in the source, load the 78 fw which has the key based on where the key is in the 78 drive. I.e. ix151-784b00 (wherever the key is when you dump the 78). Once you have both FW's loaded, you click spoof target to source and save it. That's the new FW you need to flash onto the 78 drive.
Hope that clears it up for you some.
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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27. May 2009 @ 02:50 |
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Hi guys
Just thought I?d give you an update on where I am, for those who have followed this post.
As you?ll Know all this came about because I was getting an unreadable disk error or put disk in Xbox console when using my 47 drive.
So I Flashed the new 78 drive and flash process seemed ok. I put my new drive in the Xbox and the dreaded RROD was back after I had fixed this using the X clamp method. I was receiving code 0102 and pretty much knew this was graphics as I was also getting intermittent pixilation as the desk top tried to load. So I stripped it back down and used the heat gun method and this worked a treat.
However when I put a disk in my brand new 78 drive I received the message please put disk into an Xbox 360 console or unplayable disk. Back to square one.
The console will recognise movies and play them fine but no games, original or backups. Any ideas? Or am I screwed.
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AfterDawn Addict
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27. May 2009 @ 08:14 |
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Playing movies-only is a sign of a missing/wrong key.
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taarno
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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27. May 2009 @ 11:28 |
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Thanks for that bhetrick, will try again
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Senior Member
2 product reviews
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28. May 2009 @ 05:15 |
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Originally posted by taarno:
Hi guys
Just thought I?d give you an update on where I am, for those who have followed this post.
As you?ll Know all this came about because I was getting an unreadable disk error or put disk in Xbox console when using my 47 drive.
So I Flashed the new 78 drive and flash process seemed ok. I put my new drive in the Xbox and the dreaded RROD was back after I had fixed this using the X clamp method. I was receiving code 0102 and pretty much knew this was graphics as I was also getting intermittent pixilation as the desk top tried to load. So I stripped it back down and used the heat gun method and this worked a treat.
However when I put a disk in my brand new 78 drive I received the message please put disk into an Xbox 360 console or unplayable disk. Back to square one.
The console will recognise movies and play them fine but no games, original or backups. Any ideas? Or am I screwed.
It still shouldn't say unplayable disk, does it sound like the laser's skipping when it's trying to read.
If not then it's a key missmatch.
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