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Which DL-DVDs for the Xbox 360 are Good?
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3. July 2009 @ 16:07 |
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I used to buy aone DL-DVDs to burn 360 games but recently i learned that the aone DVDs are bad and they damage the laser and i do belive my drive laser is going weak because it sometimes doesnt read the disks. verbatims are the most famouse for xbox 360 but they are kind of expensive too.
1 aone CD costs 0.47p and 1 verbatims cost £1.25 i mean thats a huge diffrence i want somthing that is the middle. which DVDs should i get.
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Sythron
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3. July 2009 @ 16:37 |
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I sometimes use verbatims, but here in Canada Costco sells 50pk Verbatim DLs for $40 CAN so I usually just get those. Get the Verbs when they go on sale at Future Shop
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2009 @ 16:53 |
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Verbatim Made in Singapore all the way.
I don't understand why people would go cheaper. You pay for what you get so you may spend more if you go the cheaper route.
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AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
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3. July 2009 @ 18:03 |
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I know peeps on here are pro Vertabims, and I did start that on my first 30 burns or so.
Truth is there is a computer shop near me that sells Gigatain DVDs. These seems to work quite well, I do make sure any games I play frequently are stored to hard drive.
I know I'm wrong as I'm putting extra stress on the laser but I get more disks for my money this way and I've got over a hundred games now.
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2009 @ 13:54 |
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There are some media called Platinum here which are pretty cheap, problem is there are two different versions. One with media code Ritek which are worse than Memorex and some with media code CMC MAG 04 (which could be Verbatim, if I remember correctly). Those give briliant results.
Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
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Member
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4. July 2009 @ 15:20 |
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I found these Infiniti 360 disks which are designed for the xbox 360 (well thats what the seller said) and they cost 74p each, they are not cheap or expensive, are these disks good. I usualy insatll most of my games onto the HDD because if i dont then the xbox makes very loud noise. If i save my games onto the HDD then even the cheapest DVDs should not damage the laser, right?
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2009 @ 15:33 |
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Well actually the 360 sometimes reads from the DVD to check for some data and to see if the disc is still there. So the laser is still being used but not as much.
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gizbug
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4. July 2009 @ 16:23 |
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AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
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4. July 2009 @ 19:06 |
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Originally posted by gizbug:
Verbatim DVD+R DL
good in-depth comment :D Think we all agree on this.
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This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. July 2009 @ 19:07
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2009 @ 20:33 |
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Originally posted by miketrev:
Originally posted by gizbug:
Verbatim DVD+R DL
good in-depth comment :D Think we all agree on this.
same to you
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2009 @ 20:58 |
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Verbatim DVD+R DL is the way to go.
I keep seeing people post "I got this brand or that brand cheaper". I don't understand why people who buy a $300 (on average), machine, are so worried about saving 50 cents per disc. Verbatims at the most are about 2 bucks per disc, at retail, and are the best quality. Places like OfficeMax, Best Buy, Staples, Walmart, etc, sell 20 packs for $40 dollars. Thats TWO DOLLARS per disc. And these same stores all regularly put them on sale at $24.99 for that same 20 pack. Thats $1.25 per disc. And Verbatims can even be found cheaper online. Is it really all that important to use "Johnny Supersaver Brand X Turbo King" discs simply because you can get them at a dollar apiece? Is 2 dollars really too much to pay for a new, A-list title?
Now if we were modding PS3s, and Verbatim BD DL discs were 20 bucks, and "Johnny Supersaver Brand X Turbo King" BluRay-R discs were only 10 bucks, that might justify the cheap discs. But we're talking minimal difference, as in pennies.
Verbatim is the best way to go, hands down. You weren't cheap when you bought that Box, so don't be cheap with it's food. Treat it right an feed it what it wants.
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Member
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5. July 2009 @ 06:39 |
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OK so verbatims made in singaur are the way to go. Ill just forget about all the other brands. even with verbatims im paying 0.5% of the origanl price for a 360 game. i dont know why i still wanted an even cheaper DVDs. £1.25 for a game is fine for me =)
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AfterDawn Addict
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5. July 2009 @ 23:20 |
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Originally posted by Farrukh49:
£1.25 for a game is fine for me =)
Psst..... What if I told you that you could get them even cheaper at £1.24? Just Kidding!!!
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drbol
Newbie
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6. July 2009 @ 20:01 |
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I has nothing to do with what media you use,but how much time and patients you have. burning on 2.5 speed will let you able to use even the cheapest media.
most people just use verbatim because you can burn them on higher speed with a higher sucses rate.
Although i think the verbatim disk will last longer though.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. July 2009 @ 20:05
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AfterDawn Addict
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6. July 2009 @ 20:36 |
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Originally posted by drbol:
but how much time and patients you have.
Ah so we have to go to the hospital, eh?
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AfterDawn Addict
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7. July 2009 @ 11:57 |
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Originally posted by drbol:
Most people just use verbatim because you can burn them on higher speed with a higher sucses rate.
Although i think the verbatim disk will last longer though.
Those are not the only reasons to use Verbatims, young grasshopper!
(snatch the pebble from my hand)
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AfterDawn Addict
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7. July 2009 @ 12:15 |
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Originally posted by Farrukh49:
1 aone CD costs 0.47p and 1 verbatims cost £1.25 i mean thats a huge diffrence.
So that's a .78p difference. And that's a lot?
If .78p is a huge difference, what would you consider the difference between spending the 1.25 vs. the cost of the original?
Originally posted by drbol:
I has nothing to do with what media you use,but how much time and patients you have. burning on 2.5 speed will let you able to use even the cheapest media.
Ouch. You need to find the guy who gave you that advice and smack him in the ding-ding for lying to you.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 7. July 2009 @ 12:19
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AfterDawn Addict
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7. July 2009 @ 15:10 |
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Originally posted by drbol:
I has nothing to do with what media you use,but how much time and patients you have. burning on 2.5 speed will let you able to use even the cheapest media.
most people just use verbatim because you can burn them on higher speed with a higher sucses rate.
Although i think the verbatim disk will last longer though.
That's so 90's. That info was true on old burners but now buffer underrun protection and whatsoever got so good that it is simply bullsh..
Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
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Senior Member
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7. July 2009 @ 17:46 |
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^^Agreed. The speed that you burn the disc at can affect the quality of the burn, but assuming slowest is best is just wrong unless you have an ancient burner. Burned discs will always have errors on them, so with any given type of disc you want to find the burn speed that gives you the lowest number of errors. On some drives (mine for example), I actually get fewer errors at 8X with Verbatim DVD+DL than I do at slower speeds. That might not be the case for you, but if you don't do a couple of test burns at different speeds, you might waste your time doing 2.4X burns when you could be getting better results at 8X and saving yourself some time.
The quality and longevity of the dye and the general manufacturing quality of the disc will also affect the error rates. If a burned disc has a lot of PIEs (less serious errors), then your drive may have to work harder to read the data and if you have PIFs (more serious errors), you'll end up with dirty disc errors or games that freeze up or just don't work at all. Also, the quality of the dye can deteriorate over time (how you store discs can also affect that), so you might end up with a game that works fine, but a year later it's not being read properly by the drive.
I learned that lesson when I used some cheapo DVDs to backup some music (as at the time I incorrectly assumed that all DVDs were the same apart from the brand name), only to find that a year or so later I was getting cyclic redundacy errors when trying to read them in the PC and they were basically coasters.
The best thing to do is get a decent drive, keep the drive's firmware up to date, use quality media (I only use Verbatim for 360 games), and once you've found the burn speed that works best, stick with it and you'll be fine.
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