e74 1022 rrod

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e74 1022 rrod

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thebenj

Junior Member

21. August 2009 @ 13:36

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hi all

does any one have any advice about the e74 error code 1022. i dont think its the av cable as the towel trick gets it going again but obviously its not a fix. ive also done the x-clamp fix with no luck. ive done the x-clamp fix on another console before that had a differnt error and a year later its still going stong with no problems and i have done it the same way.

if anyone has any good trick for a more permenent fix or modification ideas?

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iamroot

Junior Member

24. August 2009 @ 09:04

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Hi All:

E-74 error's are kind of tricky. The RRoD fix doesn't always work.

Try the heat gun method. Don't leave it on for very long, only a few seconds and don't jump right on it. Start from 6 to 8 inches away and move towards the chip to heat it gently. Keep your gun moving and NOT in the same place.

SR is always before FFE. (Spotting Round i.e. watch what you're doing, then Fire For Effect, i.e. pull the trigger :)

It helps to tape some 6" long pieces of paper to the heat gun, this way you get a good visual of the airflow in relation to the target area.

The idea is to "reball" the solder joints and bond the chip naturally. Not to aim directly at the die.

Alternative to heat gun:

You can also try leaving it running until it overheats (2 red light error) with the fan blowing only on the CPU heat sink and not the GPU. As soon as it overheats disconnect the DVD drive and power cable and then IMMEDIATELY tighten the screws some more. Make sure you have at least 2 mm (2 x 1mm or 1 x 2 mm) of spacers/washers in between the motherboard and the heat sink to prevent die damage.

Leave the motherboard out of the cage during this process. Carpet will help speed up the heating process. Also make sure your DVD drive is connected or you will be BANNED.

The idea being that heating it to such an extreme will cause the solder to melt and tightening the screws will apply enough pressure to the terminals to make a strong contact and cooling will solidify the solder.

Have a box/window/desk fan nearby to assist with cooling. You DO NOT want cold air as that will lead to almost instant condensation (water under the die). Stick with room temp air and cool gradually. Just allow the air to blow over the heat sink like a giant CPU fan (although the GPU is your target).

That should get you up and running.

Hope this helps.

Thanks!

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Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook

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schweet

Suspended permanently

25. August 2009 @ 02:10

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For the last two months I've looked around for this fix - this seems to work:

Do the x-clamp fix and tighten the hell out of the screws on the heatsink, like really really tight, nearly break it.

Get a heatgun, hairdryer, whatever (I used a fan heater), and blast the heatsinks, get them hot enough that you can't hold your finger on them for more than a second. I just moved the heater back and forth so I wouldn't cook it. Do the same on the underside.

Dismantle, put back together with screws at a 'snug' tension and it should work. Mine's been working great for the last 2 or 3 weeks now, no problems.

This is an extremely dodgy fix, your basically trying to do a reflow. If you can, find someone that can do a proper reflow. This is a last ditch effort.

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