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360 Two Red Lights - Not Overheating!
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iamroot
Junior Member
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23. August 2009 @ 23:30 |
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Hi All:
So I just got my 360 back out today (I haven't played it in a few weeks, been stuck on Dreamcast and Record Of Lodoss Wars :) and I got the 2 red light error (left side).
/ \
\ / I know, bad example, however, the closest I could get.
I've been around the block a few times and I know this is usually caused by it overheating, so I opened it up and checked the fan (working when I first turn it on, then turns itself off after about 3-5 seconds (right after I get the error).
I next thought maybe the heat sink was loose so I yanked the board out of the metal housing and did a RRoD fix using ArcticSilver thermal paste. I still had the error so I assumed I didn't tighten it down enough and proceeded to torque the screws to about 7-10 lbs. to ensure I had a snug fit.
Long story short I still have the error and am at a complete loss.
Blown temp sensor (?) maybe, I don't know.
Any help is greatly appreciated gents.
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
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iamroot
Junior Member
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24. August 2009 @ 00:01 |
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(I couldn't figure out how to edit my post, only how to edit the title, sorry for bumping, double posting)
Hi All:
So after a little more testing I figured out that it IS overheating.
After the 360 is on for about 4 or 5 seconds, the bottom of the motherboard, directly under the CPU gets hot enough to blister my finger! (Can post pictures of right ring finger :)
Can anybody explain to me why all of a sudden this thing is doing this?
I tried adding one of the little white heat pads from the RAM chips to it, however, that made it overheat in 2 or 3 seconds.
Is this the Error 0013 I hear about every now and then (RAM chips loose)?
Thanks!
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
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dinoware7
Junior Member
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24. August 2009 @ 00:10 |
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Damn dude!!!! finially the answer to my question for the end of age. Iam guessing you have the x clamps removed becuase thats the only consoles that i ever have that error on. The x-clamp removal must have something to do with this bastard of an error. I have two xboxs that are waiting to be fixed in my basement.(i buy, fix, then sell them back on ebay) I have no idea what to do.... Everyone says the x-clamp fix is so worth it but whenever i try to do it this happens. Its almost like the xbox thinks the heatsinks arent attached right so it goes crazy and thinks its overheating... but in actuality its just overheating and its the bottom of the mobo that is.. i never knew that, NICE find. I have no idea what to do either. I will be anxiously awaiting a real answer from anyone here but i just wanted to let you know that you werent the only one.
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iamroot
Junior Member
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24. August 2009 @ 00:45 |
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Hi:
I found one other post on another forum (before I post on any forum I always Google for at least an hour) where two people encountered the same problem.
They both said to remove the heat sinks and try using a heat gun on the top and bottom of the RAM chips (near the GPU), however, neither of them mentioned the bottom of the board getting hot, only the lights.
UPDATE: I did take get it working long enough to boot to the dashboard (about 60 or 70 seconds) by pulling the thermal pads off of the RAM chips and stacking them on the bottom of the CPU and tightening the board down to the cage.
This leads me to believe that it is NOT the aforementioned RAM problem as suggested on another site.
Can anybody suggest some type of dielectric substance that I could use to fill the gap between the motherboard and cage? (The entire surface area of the motherboard and cage?) Does anybody think that it may work?
Let's have a vote, garbage and replace or keep and repair?
I'm thinking another "oil cooled" 360 (A while back I submerged my HTPC into a fish tank filled with mineral oil which gave a friend of mine the idea to do it with a 360 which in turn led to an "oil cooled" 360 inside of a fish tank. Both of which now live with said friend.
Good or bad, you decide!
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
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dinoware7
Junior Member
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24. August 2009 @ 01:23 |
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lol. i love submerged rigs they intrigue me.. i never got the chance to do it myself. I Think you should just put the stock heatsinks back on with the x-clamps. Then when it gets the 3rrod again you can just shoot it with a heatgun. It will last a very long time i believe. Most consoole i see have the heatsinks bolted to the cage with washers in between the cage and mobo...but yet they still 2 ring. Iam really baffled
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dinoware7
Junior Member
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24. August 2009 @ 01:30 |
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Iam going to try to bolt the xclamps to the cage and mobo. Maybe the heat will transfer from the x-clamps up to the heatsinks.... who knows. I will post my findings tomorrow.
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iamroot
Junior Member
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24. August 2009 @ 06:52 |
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Hi All:
That's not really an option for me as when I replaced the original X-Clamp's with my bolts, I threw away the X-Clamp's. I wish I could grab them out of the garbage, but I didn't do the first RRoD fix tonight, it was done a year and a half ago originally and has worked perfect since.
I have no idea what happened. It was working fine, I was cleaning out my dresser and found RoLW for DC and HAD to get it out and play so I tossed (not literally) my 360 into the closet and hooked up my DC. This was like 2 or 3 weeks ago.
I completely ANNIHILATED RoLW and got out my 360 to play Madden and BOOM! Bill Gates jumps out with those beady red eyes and tells me to go screw myself. (If you stand your console up when you get the overheating issue it looks like two extremely EVIL red eyes.) I guess he's still mad about the switch to 'nix thing a few years back when every computer you bought had ME on it.
Anyway, I guess if I can't fix it I'll replace it and think of something to do with it later.
If anyone has any ideas, I'd be happy to hear them.
Thanks!
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
Member
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24. August 2009 @ 18:40 |
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your first incling was probably right, Press the sync button keep it pressed then press the eject button 4 times to get the error code. it will be loose ram chips on the bottom of the board. Easyily fixable with a heat gun some nice no clean flux. I have done about 4-5 like this none have come back to me.
Xbox 360 elite ixtreme Lt+
Vectra c 2.0 turbo A few mods
280bhp
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kdn
Junior Member
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24. August 2009 @ 22:59 |
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just checking, but is your fan shroud still there and properly seated? I took one out of an old xbox to replace the missing in mine. well the old xbox (with fans firing up to their max) didn't last long even to flash the drive before getting 2 rings.
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iamroot
Junior Member
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25. August 2009 @ 00:08 |
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Hi All:
Thanks for the info on getting the error code. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you know what the code is.
All the original parts are still there except the X-Clamp(s) and the DVD drive. I spoofed a BenQ in to replace the Hitachi and replaced the X-Clamp(s) with bolts.
I'll hit it with a heat gun and see what happens. I'll be sure to keep you posted.
Thanks!
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
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cmacd12
Newbie
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26. August 2009 @ 11:57 |
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Originally posted by iamroot:
Hi All:
Thanks for the info on getting the error code. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you know what the code is.
All the original parts are still there except the X-Clamp(s) and the DVD drive. I spoofed a BenQ in to replace the Hitachi and replaced the X-Clamp(s) with bolts.
I'll hit it with a heat gun and see what happens. I'll be sure to keep you posted.
Thanks!
iamroot, have you found out anything else. I did all of the same things you did to your console and it's still giving red lights. Even when the console has been powered down for a day, it immediately gives 2 red lights when powered on. Bummer!
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Member
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26. August 2009 @ 12:09 |
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its the memory chips that causes this just use a heatgun on them
Xbox 360 elite ixtreme Lt+
Vectra c 2.0 turbo A few mods
280bhp
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dinoware7
Junior Member
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26. August 2009 @ 12:41 |
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its defiantly not the memory chips. Its defiantly because of the x-clamps. i have no idea how to do the xclamp properl. But i had a console yesterday that had the xclamps removed and the heatsinks were bolted. I removed the xclamp mod and put the xclamps on it and it worked perfectly............... I HATE THE XCLAMP MOD!!!
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Member
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26. August 2009 @ 13:13 |
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xclxmp mod is fine as long as its done right!
Xbox 360 elite ixtreme Lt+
Vectra c 2.0 turbo A few mods
280bhp
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dinoware7
Junior Member
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26. August 2009 @ 13:34 |
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How on the earth do you do it right? When ever i try it, it gives me the 2 red ring instantaneously
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Member
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26. August 2009 @ 13:36 |
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what error code do u get ?
Press the sync button then the eject button While holding the sync button 4 times then tell me the code
4 light =0
1 light =1
2 lights =2
3 lights =3
Xbox 360 elite ixtreme Lt+
Vectra c 2.0 turbo A few mods
280bhp
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 26. August 2009 @ 13:37
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JaundiceL
Newbie
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26. August 2009 @ 16:32 |
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Hey guys,
I just want to make sure you aren't flailing about needlessly. With regard to your RROD fixes that you did, make absolutely sure that you have the right spacing between the motherboard and the bottom of the heatsinks. If you have too thick of washers or something, you'll be tightening the heatsinks down in vain as they'll never actually contact the chips. This problem you are having sounds very similar to one I had after I re-stocked my washers and things for my RROD fix. I couldn't find the same ones I was using before and got something I thought was exactly the same. Turned out to be a hair too thick which prevented full contact with the heatsinks. Upon startup, the fan would immediately kick into max speed and then power would cut about 2-3 seconds afterwards. Once I fixed the spacing and made sure the heatsinks were in contact, the machine booted normally and I continued with my fix.
Anyway, good luck with your issue.
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dinoware7
Junior Member
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26. August 2009 @ 17:21 |
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There you go my friends. Thats what i have been suspecting. The washers are too thick. Thanks again.
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iamroot
Junior Member
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27. August 2009 @ 00:55 |
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Hi All:
Sorry I haven't responded in a few days. I decided to just replace the system. The RRoD fix lasted over a year and a half (I guess just over 2 years is the most you can ask from a system you spend almost $500.00 on) which I guess was a long enough "extension" on it's life. I just bought another one and swapped it into my Elite case. ([sarcasm]YEAH!!!, it even came with a free 256 MB internal memory card ...... [/sarcasm])
I do, however, have plans for this system. I intend on building a model of Bill Gates and cramming the broken systems' RF board in it so that his eyes will be "lit up" by the red lights, powered by a couple of batteries shoved up his ... well, I'm sure you get the idea.
I figure it will make an interesting conversation starter in my living room.
On a side note: I used 2 x 1 mm washers (nylon closest to board, then a metal) for the spacing between the die and the heat sink. I didn't see the point of having all the washers on the bottom of the board so I used 1 x 1 mm (nylon) washer for the bottom.
I ordered the kit(s) off of llama and followed their directions.
I'll try removing one of the washers from the top and seeing what happens. I'll also do the sync/eject button to get you a code.
Thanks!
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
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iamroot
Junior Member
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27. August 2009 @ 01:52 |
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Hi All:
So I ripped apart my 360 and removed the metal washers so that there was only one set of nylon washers between the heat sink and motherboard. This got me an error 0031 (A quick Google revealed that the heat sink was too tight against the CPU or GPU) so I corrected that (took it back apart and re-inserted the metal washers).
After correcting the 0031, I now get 0011 (a quick Google says that the heat sink is too loose), however, I have COMPLETELY torqued down the heat sink.
Any other idea's?
Thanks!
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
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iamroot
Junior Member
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27. August 2009 @ 07:16 |
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Hi All:
So the 360 has been running for about 5 hours now without any problems. I did some searching through Google and found a page that has some pretty specific meanings to error codes. (didn't save the link, however, when I find it I'll post it)
I went back and forth between a bunch of error codes for an hour or so, loosening and tightening heat sinks, etc. and got it working.
I had to remove the metal washers from the CPU and use ONLY 1 set (on each top and bottom) of 1 mm nylon washers and tighten it down as hard as I could (obviously don't monkey fist it and destroy the die) and that solved my 0011 (CPU heat sink loose).
For the 0031 (GPU heat sink too tight) I had to remove the metal washers and BARELY tighten the screws. I turned the screws to the point where I encountered SOME resistance and it worked!
I initially had some problems when I screwed the motherboard back into the cage (0031), however, taking it back out and loosening the GPU heat sink screws a little more corrected that problem.
It's been running Red Faction for about 5 hours (I napped while it sat at the start screen) and I haven't had any problems at all.
I haven't had any play time on it yet so I'll keep you guys informed of any problems that are encountered when it gets some actual use.
Now I just wish I hadn't been so impatient and went and bought another 360 and OPENED it to put the new motherboard in my elite case :-( damn stickers.
Thanks!
Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the Universe is winning ~ Rich Cook
RTFM - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2487 |
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sabba25
Newbie
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27. August 2009 @ 19:45 |
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Was having similar issue on a Red ringer the other night E74. Bought off ebay advertised as a 3 ringer I could not get this sucker to overheat at all. Got into a state where i would flash 3 red lights and spin the fans for 3 sec and killed the power. I had previously fixed 3 other xbox's using the xclamp mod. After reading here i was like 'f' it so i got out the heat gun (after driving down to home depot) and made that muther burn if it wanted to our not. Slopped it all back in the case cuz I though t for sure it was toast and it fired up and has been working since.
Lesson here is if it wont cook it self doing the xclamp mod apply some gentle persuasion...
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dinoware7
Junior Member
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27. August 2009 @ 20:26 |
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Yea, eating the xbox up while it is on, is very very bad for it. The heat gun works wonders. Its the only good way of fixing the box.
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sabba25
Newbie
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28. August 2009 @ 23:01 |
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Man was working for what 2 days and now im back to 3 flashling lights 0020.... any ideas i allready did xclamp and heat gun. Fans seem really slow too.
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n1n3
Newbie
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21. September 2009 @ 04:37 |
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Ok guys so i finally found a solution for 2 red lights. Ive had the same problem. ive had 2 red lights, read that its overheating but after leaving console for two days turned off, i turned it on and got 2 red lights after 10 seconds. i applied the thermal paste, cleaned the dust, still nothing. Well the thing is. all of you that have the same problem, just so u know ur console IS overheating belevie it or not. Actually its ur GPU that overheats. and in case u didnt know ur amongst the lucky ones that u did not get 3 red lights or RRoD. cause this is fixable. ill tell u how. No bullshit about ripoff sites for guides or anything. this is a straightforward solution which helped me out and for week now it works like a charm.
ok first of all lets do basics (which i think u all already did but doesnt help):
1. if ur under warranty, just send it to Microsoft, if not keep reading this
2. google the net about opening the xbox (there are bunch of sites wich explains opening of the console even with pics)
3. look for dust on ur cooling fans and clean it, maybe this helps.
4. remove the X-clamps (look on the net how to do it) and apply thermal paste on ur CPU and GPU (my console worked with this for like 45 mins and then bam again 2 red lights)
5. those are the basics, if nothing helped, keep reading
before we continue i must say that u should forget about ur console being packed in plastic and look nice. ur console will be opened all time but hey if thats the price for console to work, what the heck? at least u saved 200+ bucks. go to a nearest computer store and buy a big PC CPU cooling fan (cca 15$) and a small one which is for pc Graphics card (cca 10$) ( or if u have old graphic card and old CPU just remove the coolers from them). u should also buy th AC power adapter ( those are chinese production and cost like 5$). ok so now cut the wires on cooling fans so that u get free red wire and free blac wire. also cut off the plug from ac adapter so u get two wires from there also. this is really easy now. join the black wire from cooling fans to a blac wire on ac adapter and red from fans to red on adapter. isolate them with a duct tape and now u have a cooling fans with a power supply. get two small pieces of wood and tight the screws from big fan on those two pieces of wood in that way so that u have an empty space under the cooler itself. put it directly above the heat sink(the small iron thing near the power on/off on your console)and u solved the big one. now remove the DVD drive from its seat and put it on a book or something cause its cable is pretty damn short so that ur GPU is available (cause its under DVD drive). tight the small cooling fan on the GPU directly but not hard. and thats about it. plug ur coolers into power (plug ur adapter i mean). turn on ur console and voila u solved the problem. i know this isnt an eye candy solution but its practical, cheap and it works. there are ways to connect the cooling fans directly on consoles so that when u turn on the console u turn on the fans, but im no expert in this. this way if u dont plug out ur ac adapter ur fans will keep blowing ( which is in some way better cause when u turn off ur console u can still left ur fans to cool off the GPU). ok so here is the picture how it look like.
this is the adapter in case u didnt know what i was talking about:
and this is my console (i know it doesnt look nice, but it works :D)
enjoy and let me know if this worked for ya. in case u have some questions feel free to post here or mail me at n1n3z@yahoo.com. i will not spam ya, so pls dont spam em :D
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. September 2009 @ 05:08
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