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xbox 360 diffrent kind of RROD
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valocks
Newbie
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30. January 2010 @ 09:29 |
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im having a problem with my xbox 360, i bought it from a friend for a very low cost but the thing gives an RROD. i would send it to Microsoft but he broke the warranty seal, anyway i tried every single fix there is, none of witch worked, my problem here is that every RROd ive seen was not like mine. there system would turn on and immediately go to the RROD mine waits about 30 to 40 seconds and then does the RROD. so im pretty sure the problem with mine is not the same as everyone elses and i cant find any info on my specific problem. any information that anyone has on this would be awesome. im not sure the model of my 360 but it has 2 heat sinks on the inside...as opposed to the older ones only having one. i think thats the only difference, it does have an hdmi out but im not sure if the old ones did either.
when i say i tried every fix i also mean the towel fix and the raising the heat sink fix where you put the new bolts in the x clamp, i have tried everything that has been put out about the normal rrod
its not modded ive had it tore down completely and theres no extra hardware except the heat sink
as for the dvd mod, maybe but i dont think so, ive been thinking about buying a new dvd drive to see if that was the problem.
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ModKingg
Inactive
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30. January 2010 @ 09:32 |
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Originally posted by valocks:
im having a problem with my xbox 360, i bought it from a friend for a very low cost but the thing gives an RROD. i would send it to Microsoft but he broke the warranty seal, anyway i tried every single fix there is, none of witch worked, my problem here is that every RROd ive seen was not like mine. there system would turn on and immediately go to the RROD mine waits about 30 to 40 seconds and then does the RROD. so im pretty sure the problem with mine is not the same as everyone elses and i cant find any info on my specific problem. any information that anyone has on this would be awesome. im not sure the model of my 360 but it has 2 heat sinks on the inside...as opposed to the older ones only having one. i think thats the only difference, it does have an hdmi out but im not sure if the old ones did either.
when i say i tried every fix i also mean the towel fix and the raising the heat sink fix where you put the new bolts in the x clamp, i have tried everything that has been put out about the normal rrod
its not modded ive had it tore down completely and theres no extra hardware except the heat sink
as for the dvd mod, maybe but i dont think so, ive been thinking about buying a new dvd drive to see if that was the problem.
Those fixes are temporary and if they did work they may not last long especially the un-recommended towel fix. The best way to fix your xbox would be to get it reflowed as this is how microsoft fixes theres. You'll have to find someone with a reflow machine and there maybe people on the site who have them because I know there were a month or two ago, gameover9 maybe?
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valocks
Newbie
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30. January 2010 @ 09:48 |
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thank you, that might work but agian im not sure and will have to try this out, any other suggestions will help alot....like i said before tho this isnt the same as other rrod problems ive seen this system waits mabey 30 to 40 seconds and then gives an rrod (no vid or audio either with 4 different cables so its not the cables)
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AfterDawn Addict
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30. January 2010 @ 09:59 |
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perhaps stating what the secondary code is would get you some more help.
Come talk with us on efnet at #elitemods !!! or just click ME
ALSO, DO NOT SEND ME MESSAGES ON LIVE REGARDING MODDING CONSOLES, OR HOW I PLAYED A CERTAIN GAME EARLY. I WILL NOT RESPOND. I WILL INSTEAD DELETE YOUR MESSAGE, AND BLOCK ALL COMMUNICATION FROM YOU. JUST SEND ME A PM ON HERE. |
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valocks
Newbie
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30. January 2010 @ 09:59 |
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also btw the error code is 0022, ive looked this up and didnt find much except the normal fixes ive already done
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shmirk
Junior Member
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30. January 2010 @ 10:36 |
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0022 is a CPU error i believe
You need to heat it with a heat gun to melt the solder all back into place - works for me!
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Senior Member
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30. January 2010 @ 11:06 |
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0022 is bridged solder joint somewhere, likely caused by "tin whiskers". http://xbox-experts.com/errorcode/E10/0022/ You should flush the CPU/GPU/hana with flux if you have it or at least isopropyl alcohol. Then do a reflow with heatgun. See link in my sig for that. Also never do the towel trick. And make sure you have 3mm of spacers underneath the motherboard (including screw if you dont drill) and 2mm worth between heatsink and motherboard
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 30. January 2010 @ 11:08
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valocks
Newbie
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4. February 2010 @ 10:20 |
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ok thank you very much, it will be a few days before i can try these fixes (im currently not at home) but as soon as i can i will and thanks alot for the links w00ly there will be an update as to weather these work or not in about a week....agian thank you guys for your help
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SYMBYAX
Member
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4. February 2010 @ 10:50 |
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0022 sucks like wooly said you likely have a bridged solder joint I don't think you can reflow that the only option is reball and good luck finding someone to do that sell it as broken
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Senior Member
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4. February 2010 @ 11:02 |
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I dont know about that, the metal dendrites are not that big a lot can be flushed out with flux and the flux also helps your solder to reseal after a reflow, hopefully liquifying the rest of the whiskers that may still be present.
Other shorts can cause 0022 too so if you've done any soldering on the system make sure it's not grounding out anywhere. If it is you'll have to use some desoldering braid and try again and hope you didnt mess something up with the short.
By the way valocks I've made a video in my sig that shows a cheap and easy way to do the reflow with a heatgun
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valocks
Newbie
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4. February 2010 @ 12:00 |
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thanks agian w00ly i will check out your video soon however i think ive stumbled across the problem, i was overlooking the system and found that where you plug your power strip into the system doesnt look right, theres 6 prongs but no middle piece(btw i have soldered nothing extra to this system its all original) also selling it as broken i dont think i could get to much out of it and think it would be worth more just to fix it and play it. back to the plug..theres no middle piece like i see on my friends and ive found that theres two different plugs for these systems..both with pieces in the middle..does anyone think this could be my problem ( as for it being a ground or somthing??
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Senior Member
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4. February 2010 @ 12:07 |
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No the pieces in the plug you're referring to are designed so that you can't use a power supply with improper amperage/wattage. So if the plug doesnt fit because of these tabs then dont modify it to make it fit as this will cause the RRoD...if it does fit you know it's ok to use.
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valocks
Newbie
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4. February 2010 @ 12:07 |
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Originally posted by valocks:
thanks agian w00ly i will check out your video soon however i think ive stumbled across the problem, i was overlooking the system and found that where you plug your power strip into the system doesnt look right, theres 6 prongs but no middle piece(btw i have soldered nothing extra to this system its all original) also selling it as broken i dont think i could get to much out of it and think it would be worth more just to fix it and play it. back to the plug..theres no middle piece like i see on my friends and ive found that theres two different plugs for these systems..both with pieces in the middle..does anyone think this could be my problem ( as for it being a ground or somthing??
also.......how do you know if you have a blown copasitor
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valocks
Newbie
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4. February 2010 @ 12:11 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
No the pieces in the plug you're referring to are designed so that you can't use a power supply with improper amperage/wattage. So if the plug doesnt fit because of these tabs then dont modify it to make it fit as this will cause the RRoD...if it does fit you know it's ok to use.
im saying i think it was modded before i got it to make a plug fit that wasnt supposed to, it looks like a piece on the inside is busted, if this is the case......how would i fix it and how would i know if im even using the right power supply
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Senior Member
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4. February 2010 @ 12:30 |
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on the back on the left side of the xbox it will tell you how much amperage on the 12v line the system requires, 16.5A for example. Then check the label on the power supply to see if it can supply that much. If not get one that can. It may not fix it though. I had a system where someone did this very thing (required a 16.5A power supply and he was using one for 12.1A). It was a 0020 error but it's still a similar error to yours. I did a reflow as in the video in my sig and I also hit the area around the power connector. Used the proper power supply and it worked (I was actually kinda surprised cause i had no idea if a reflow would work or not but it was worth a try)
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valocks
Newbie
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4. February 2010 @ 12:41 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
on the back on the left side of the xbox it will tell you how much amperage on the 12v line the system requires, 16.5A for example. Then check the label on the power supply to see if it can supply that much. If not get one that can. It may not fix it though. I had a system where someone did this very thing (required a 16.5A power supply and he was using one for 12.1A). It was a 0020 error but it's still a similar error to yours. I did a reflow as in the video in my sig and I also hit the area around the power connector. Used the proper power supply and it worked (I was actually kinda surprised cause i had no idea if a reflow would work or not but it was worth a try)
haha well its worth a shot and im going to try it, the power supply i have now is not the original but i think its the right onw the sticker on the system says "12v===16,5a;===1a" and the power chord says "12v===16.5a(16,5a), 5vsb===1a" output, so im prrty sure its the correct one,i guess i can just try out your vid and put the clamps back on and try it out and see what happens......btw how can i tell if a capasitor is blown? and when you say you hit the area with the power connector, do you mean on the top or bottom of the board?
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Senior Member
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4. February 2010 @ 12:51 |
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My buddy had 0022 and he fixed it by doing xclamp but leaving one of the corners lower than the rest and tightening it all up. He did this by leaving one of the washers on the top side of the board in between the mobo and the heat sink off. He had the box turned off and would push on the heat sinks until the red ring went away. This told him where the additional pressure was needed. By leaving one of the washers off it push more pressure on one corner of the CPU and it works great.
This is a bit extreme and can cause your cpu or gpu die to crack so I would do this last resort but who knows, may work.
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valocks
Newbie
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4. February 2010 @ 13:02 |
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Originally posted by Kafluke:
My buddy had 0022 and he fixed it by doing xclamp but leaving one of the corners lower than the rest and tightening it all up. He did this by leaving one of the washers on the top side of the board in between the mobo and the heat sink off. He had the box turned off and would push on the heat sinks until the red ring went away. This told him where the additional pressure was needed. By leaving one of the washers off it push more pressure on one corner of the CPU and it works great.
This is a bit extreme and can cause your cpu or gpu die to crack so I would do this last resort but who knows, may work.
you know to be honest im actually unsure why the xclamp fix and others like that (like the penny trick) actually work because shouldnt the gpu and cpu just work?.....even if theres no heat sync on them they should still work.....is it because of the solder not makeing a good connection and applying pressure pushes into place?, if so then why not just reflow every one that has the rrod and stop doing the tricks that apply pressure to the chips?
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Senior Member
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4. February 2010 @ 13:02 |
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Originally posted by valocks:
haha well its worth a shot and im going to try it, the power supply i have now is not the original but i think its the right onw the sticker on the system says "12v===16,5a;===1a" and the power chord says "12v===16.5a(16,5a), 5vsb===1a" output, so im prrty sure its the correct one,i guess i can just try out your vid and put the clamps back on and try it out and see what happens......btw how can i tell if a capasitor is blown? and when you say you hit the area with the power connector, do you mean on the top or bottom of the board?
as far as I know the 16.5A (203w) power supply works on all systems so you're fine there. As far as the cap being blown i'm not sure, it's difficult to test caps while in-circuit...you'll have to do some googling on that one. And i said hit the area *near* the power connector not *with* ;) But yea with your heatgun go over those areas quickly both on top and on the bottom. You'll see how long to stay over each area in the video. The bottom side is usually just for preheating but you can stay over the area that you want to fix longer on the low setting
Originally posted by Kafluke:
My buddy had 0022 and he fixed it by doing xclamp but leaving one of the corners lower than the rest and tightening it all up. He did this by leaving one of the washers on the top side of the board in between the mobo and the heat sink off. He had the box turned off and would push on the heat sinks until the red ring went away. This told him where the additional pressure was needed. By leaving one of the washers off it push more pressure on one corner of the CPU and it works great.
This is a bit extreme and can cause your cpu or gpu die to crack so I would do this last resort but who knows, may work.
Yea probably wouldnt recommend this because I like having my heatsinks as flat as possible so as to make good even contact with the die. I also dont like pushing on the chips either because it can damage it and the reason it may work when doing that is because there's probably broken solder and he's forcing the connection together (which will get worse with time as oxidation builds up)
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valocks
Newbie
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4. February 2010 @ 13:17 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
as far as I know the 16.5A (203w) power supply works on all systems so you're fine there. As far as the cap being blown i'm not sure, it's difficult to test caps while in-circuit...you'll have to do some googling on that one. And i said hit the area *near* the power connector not *with* ;) But yea with your heatgun go over those areas quickly both on top and on the bottom. You'll see how long to stay over each area in the video. The bottom side is usually just for preheating but you can stay over the area that you want to fix longer on the low setting
ok thank you and if i find out a good way to test the caps i will post it on a new thread for everyone, there will be an update as soon as im able to test this out to see if it works for my system
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