Hey this is my first post here so any help would be greatly appreciated. Okay I have two xbox 360's One that is banned from live and another that is unmodified in any way and can connect to xbox live. I tried putting in my Gears of War 2 in today to play online. But get This disc is unreadable after the main menu screen. I put the same disk into my banned console and it plays fine. I tried downloading the game onto my HDD but it wont let me. So my question is the lens dirty? Is there anyway of fixing it? Or could I just swap out the disk drive on the banned console with the unbanned console. Or would that get my unbanned console banned as well? Thank you for taking the time to read this and responding.
You can clean the lens with isopropyl alcohol. You can also try using better media like verbatim on a slower burn. Swapping out the drives can work too and wont get you banned if you use stock, non-ixtreme firmware. Or if you dont want to swap you can just move the HDD to the one that can read it, copy to HD then swap it back and it should work that way. You can also try decreasing resistance to the laser's potentiometer. There's other fixes too that i'm not as familiar with so if someone wants to share there fixes i'd be happy to hear em.
Sounds like your game needs to be buffed that's all some laser work better than other so the one on your Banned console is probably better switching the drives would require flashing and you'd likely get banned try getting the disc cleaned first some video game rental stores offer buffing works great
Thanks for the advice, I was reading around and some people were saying that they recieve the disk error message right before they get a red ring of death, I dont know all about that though. I did open up the unbanned xbox and cleaned the laser with rubbing alchol and tried it again with no avail. So if I did swith the two drives I would most likely get banned then??? Thanks again for everyone that is helping I really appreciate it.
It has nothing to do with RROD lol freezing on the other hand is a different story either your game is to damaged or your lens is to weak or dirty to read it. What brand is teh drive you can get a new BENQ lens for under $10.00 on Ebay and it real easy to install.
Well thanks good to hear that it has nothing to do with the RRD. I did however go and purchase a new copy of GOW 2 Game of the Year Edition though yesterday. Just because I really wanted to get back into the action :P But when I put it in a minute into gameplay. I recieved the same error message. This disk cannot be read, try using a soft cloth ect ect. So your saying that I might just have a weak lens and I should just replace the drive. I looked at the drive and it looks like a Philips Lite-on (it had a yellow wire)So does that mean I have to get another Philips? Or can I get a Benq? And once again thanks for everyone contributing this is really helping me out.
It probably is due to a weak laser, like has been mentioned.
However, before you completely replace your drive, there is something else that can be done.
Look for a "pot calibration" tutorial. Basically, there's a variable-strength resistor that the power going to your drive's laser is connected through. You can 'tweak' that electrical resistance down and therefore increase the voltage going to the laser. I would definitely try this first, especially since only a single game is giving you problems. Just make sure you use a multimeter to do this.
$38 on new discs -- Check
$15 on burn after burn that showed as a DVD -- Check
$11 on new laser -- Check
$28 on new multimeter -- Check
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Knowledge from Leerage? -- Priceless
Thanks but seeing that I dont own either a micro electronic screwdriver or a multimeter, it might be cheaper for me to just get a new drive then. But one other question does it have to be the same drive thats in there currently or can I just use a Benq since there cheaper?
You could get a BenQ, but there is no point. The Lite-On is a good drive, the only drive with the latest firmware, and doesn't need any special attention since you will already have access to your drive key. Also, Lite-Ons are less picky about which SATA controllers they will allow to flash them than BenQ drives.
A multimeter will cost you about $15, a tiny screwdriver will cost you about $1 -- hell, you don't even need to use a screwdriver; use a paperclip. This is the cheaper option and you get tools that you can use in the future.
A replacement drive will cost you about $30, and it will probably be in worse shape than your current drive, if experience with drive retailers is any indication. After you get the drive you will then need to dump your original drive, grab the drive key and bin file, then flash that onto your Lite-On drive. This is the more expensive option, you don't get any tools you can use in the future.
If it were up to me, I'd do the drive tweak first. The drives for sale on the internet, even those sold as "new", are not always of the highest quality. I've ordered probably 4 or 5 replacement drives over the last few years and maybe one or two of them was actually in decent shape. The others had weak lenses, sticky internal mechanisms, sticky drivetrays, filth-covered internals, etc. It's a crap shoot.
$38 on new discs -- Check
$15 on burn after burn that showed as a DVD -- Check
$11 on new laser -- Check
$28 on new multimeter -- Check
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Knowledge from Leerage? -- Priceless
I just looked that info up a new drive will run about $35+ plus it stated that I needed to "flash the firmware with you original key and in some case spoof the drive to the original" which sounds way to complicated. So looks like I will try to calibration method
