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scaler chip is damaged xbox 360!?
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Elmadhoun
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15. February 2010 @ 11:27 |
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k the problem is my xbox 360 first experienced some colour issues and weird flashy things coming from the dash board then i shut down my xbox and opened it again l8r and played.. then same thing but it shut down by it self and when i boot it up again the error "e74" showed up soo i looked up on youtube and found a way to fix it using thermal paste and it worked then used the towel trick and it worked even better! now i started playing again and the flashy colours came bck again and i dont want the e74 error to show up! so what do u think i should do 2 prevent it! wikipedia said tht the scaler chip is damaged but how can it be damaged if it works most of the time then dsnt then works and on and on..
please tell me a way to fix it
Thank You
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AfterDawn Addict
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15. February 2010 @ 11:36 |
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Firstly, The towel trick is a bog no no, don't do that again if you want your xbox to live.
Basically, you prolly need a reflow and to replace the xclamps with screws (to prevent board flex) . There are 2 types of reflow, a cheap one or a professional one.
If you want the cheap one, have a look at w00ly's post, this explains what to do
If you want a professional one, you need to find someone in your local vicinity to do this for you.
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Elmadhoun
Member
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15. February 2010 @ 11:39 |
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k cool i check on another website and it said i need to clean the scaler chip cuz that would help alot and generally solve the e74 error.
so do u think i should open up my xbox and clean the scaler chip up?
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AfterDawn Addict
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15. February 2010 @ 11:46 |
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Originally posted by Elmadhoun:
so do u think i should open up my xbox and clean the scaler chip up?
err, no. I suggested something different, see my previous post
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Member
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16. February 2010 @ 02:09 |
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I've dealt with a few e74s and all I did was run a hair dryer on its hottest setting on the ANA/HANA chip for like 10 minutes then apply ample pressure to the chip for like 3 minutes then check if the e74 is gone. If it is get yourself a little self-adhesive heat sink and stick that puppy on the ANA/HANA chip so it doesn't go overheating again. The problem is similar to the problem with typical 3 red ring errors except this one is specific to the ANA/HANA (scaler) chip. These little bastards a pain and they only started showing up on HDMI models and only started giving 360 owners trouble once the NXE came out (coincidence?). Anyways try my method and I think you will be pleasantly surprised. If you want to further your chances of this not happening again, follow miketrev's advice and do an xclamp fix (this will also help prevent that nasty GPU from overheating your ANA/HANA chip. Good luck!
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Senior Member
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16. February 2010 @ 02:20 |
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The problem is flexing caused by the x-clamps under heat which breaks the lead-free solder. Do the reflow like miketrev suggested with a heatgun. A hair dryer isnt going to get hot enough to melt the broken solder (if it did would they let you use it on your scalp?) My heatgun goes up to 1000*F and was only $20. Certainly don't do the towel trick or anything that forces the system to overheat. Make sure you're careful when taking off the x-clamps so you dont slip and damage something, and be sure to use the correct amount of washers for the x-clamp fix. See the link in my sig for the full tutorial.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. February 2010 @ 02:23
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16. February 2010 @ 04:59 |
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Oh w00ly it's so nice to see you again... I wouldn't go recommending 1000 degree heat guns for novices. I have heard of capacitors exploding from such things. I personally didn't think the hair dryer would work either, but it has worked for me several times so I would at least advice something like that to people before they go destroying their 360s because they are using way too much heat. I think lead-free solder melts at around 450 degrees fahrenheit so 1000 degrees seems like a bit much. I don't know maybe my hair dryer didn't actually melt the solder but just softened it up and allowed me to put pressure on the chip and reconnect the broken points.
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Kelewan
Member
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16. February 2010 @ 05:07 |
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Originally posted by adambar:
I've dealt with a few e74s and all I did was run a hair dryer on its hottest setting on the ANA/HANA chip for like 10 minutes then apply ample pressure to the chip for like 3 minutes then check if the e74 is gone. If it is get yourself a little self-adhesive heat sink and stick that puppy on the ANA/HANA chip so it doesn't go overheating again. The problem is similar to the problem with typical 3 red ring errors except this one is specific to the ANA/HANA (scaler) chip. These little bastards a pain and they only started showing up on HDMI models and only started giving 360 owners trouble once the NXE came out (coincidence?). Anyways try my method and I think you will be pleasantly surprised. If you want to further your chances of this not happening again, follow miketrev's advice and do an xclamp fix (this will also help prevent that nasty GPU from overheating your ANA/HANA chip. Good luck!
Not true mate
The hair dryer trick may cause the issue to disappear for a time, but it will return. Either get it reflowed or use the hybrid xclamps fix.
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Senior Member
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16. February 2010 @ 05:32 |
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Still love the heat gun method. When properly deflecting heat away from the capacitors this is a really straightforward way of fixing gpu/cpu solder joints. Capacitors are meant to tolerate extreme temperatures so to pop them you really have to concentrate the heat gun on them directly...which is a no no, of course. I always carefully tent the caps, buttons, and ends of the motherboard with aluminum. Haven't had one problem...no browning at all...no problems at all. In any case, always be very careful that you don't bridge connections on the board with any thing metallic.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
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AfterDawn Addict
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16. February 2010 @ 12:01 |
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Also, Pay extra attention to the eject & sync buttons. Make sure you cover these properly or you will melt them, they are little buggers to replace.
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Senior Member
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16. February 2010 @ 12:26 |
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Originally posted by adambar:
Oh w00ly it's so nice to see you again... I wouldn't go recommending 1000 degree heat guns for novices. I have heard of capacitors exploding from such things. I personally didn't think the hair dryer would work either, but it has worked for me several times so I would at least advice something like that to people before they go destroying their 360s because they are using way too much heat. I think lead-free solder melts at around 450 degrees fahrenheit so 1000 degrees seems like a bit much. I don't know maybe my hair dryer didn't actually melt the solder but just softened it up and allowed me to put pressure on the chip and reconnect the broken points.
Well it's not 1000F directly on the system, the surface temps are going to be lower. I havent measured the surface temps yet but I have a multimeter with a thermocouple I'll have to hook up one time and see. I've never had any issue at all with a single cap popping from the many systems I've done though. If he follows my guide he wont either but he could put some foil over the caps and plastic if it makes him feel better. I thought about suggesting that when I made my tutorial but was afraid it may provide a false sense of security and people might heat over the caps more than they should. But you're right you probably were able to get the systems to flex in such a way that it made the connection again which is why it worked...the problem is the solder is still broken and is building up oxidation at the break which will cause it to break again and be harder to fix in the future, perhaps requiring liquid flux to remove the oxidation
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