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9xxx Series traces cut properly? Pictures attached.
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Modking30
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19. February 2010 @ 19:42 |
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Okay, still trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. I am using a vampire probe. I have followed the guide and I get nothing after I turn on the xtractor. Maybe I'm probing wrong? I am using the holes they recommned in the vampire guide.
maybe My traces aren't cut all the way?
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AfterDawn Addict
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19. February 2010 @ 20:22 |
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Pin101 looks properly cut but the 3V3 doesn't look cut at all. Can you test continuity with a multimeter?
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Modking30
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19. February 2010 @ 21:08 |
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Originally posted by leerage:
Pin101 looks properly cut but the 3V3 doesn't look cut at all. Can you test continuity with a multimeter?
Is that the pin I am probing? I have a multimeter how do I test the holes? So my traces look good? so I need to scrap the one of the holes I'm probing? Didn't see that in the guide other than 101 and traces. Did I miss something?
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Modking30
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20. February 2010 @ 11:58 |
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bump. Anyone? I didnt' see in the guide other than 2 cuts.
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20. February 2010 @ 12:02 |
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The bottom trace in the bottom picture is the one which doesn't look cut completely.
To use your multimeter
- clear off a little more of the trace
- continuity on your multimeter - symbol is a little arrow with a line on the end and a little speaker
- put one probe in the hole and one on the other side of the cut.
- if you hear a noice, your cut is bad
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Modking30
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20. February 2010 @ 12:52 |
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Originally posted by bhetrick:
The bottom trace in the bottom picture is the one which doesn't look cut completely.
To use your multimeter
- clear off a little more of the trace
- continuity on your multimeter - symbol is a little arrow with a line on the end and a little speaker
- put one probe in the hole and one on the other side of the cut.
- if you hear a noice, your cut is bad
Yep. Got it dumped today! Finally! Thanks for your help and Leerage! I don't think an exacto knife makes this easy to cut. Is there something better? Now can I use the glue to repair the traces? Now that I have the firmware, how do you flash this? LOL
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 20. February 2010 @ 12:54
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20. February 2010 @ 14:13 |
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Originally posted by Modking30:
Originally posted by bhetrick:
The bottom trace in the bottom picture is the one which doesn't look cut completely.
To use your multimeter
- clear off a little more of the trace
- continuity on your multimeter - symbol is a little arrow with a line on the end and a little speaker
- put one probe in the hole and one on the other side of the cut.
- if you hear a noice, your cut is bad
Yep. Got it dumped today! Finally! Thanks for your help and Leerage! I don't think an exacto knife makes this easy to cut. Is there something better? Now can I use the glue to repair the traces? Now that I have the firmware, how do you flash this? LOL
Props go to bhetrick. ;)
Do a couple more dumps. Then load the Lite-OFW.bin into JF and it will show you a MD5. Do this on all dumps to insure they are the same.
Once you are for sure the dumps are good, take a tiny bit of the conductive glue and repair the trace. Make sure you get just the trace and not any copper above or below it.
Once you have repaired the PCB, you would flash this drive as you normally would with a LiteOn. Load the orig in source and JF will autoload iX LT for you. Go over to MTKFlash and make sure you LiteOn is detected. Click LiteOn Erase and click OK to the 2 prompts. Dots will go across and you will power cycle the drive (on the off on the Xtractor). You should get good flash chip properties (0x72), and you can write the firmware.
It is also advisable that your update the dash of the console to the latest from Live before flashing iX LT firmware.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 20. February 2010 @ 14:18
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Modking30
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20. February 2010 @ 15:19 |
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Can you get a bad dump? So I should dump a couple of times and make sure the md5 matches? I assume the glue works okay? Seems to be a pain to use LOL. So do I just repair the one trace or all the cuts? I have added the glue which probably may need adjusted. Here's what I have:
Is this correct? Seems to take forever to dry!
Edit: I cleaned it up and now my xtractor gets a blue light but the drive will not eject or show any signs of power. I checked with the muti meter and all holes are beeping now. Maybe the traces still aren't right?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 20. February 2010 @ 19:55
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21. February 2010 @ 02:13 |
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You're probably grounding the trace to the board. You got to be real careful to only get it on the trace. I've used both a trace repair pen (top picture) and a simple piece of wire (2nd and 3rd pic). Both with great success. But, again, it's real important that you're only getting it on the trace.
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Modking30
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21. February 2010 @ 09:28 |
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I think I'm having so much trouble because I did such a bad job cutting. Now if I check the mutimeter on each trace I get a beep. Is that correct? I am hold postive on one of the traces and negative on the other and it beeps. They should correct? At the via holes they all beep. This tells me everything is reconnected. Now if I play with the solder my xtractor will light up when it's powered on, but the drive still has no power.
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Modking30
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21. February 2010 @ 14:42 |
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Okay. I know it?s tough in the picture but this is a closeup. Looks really bad there lol. Anyway, with this soldering, I put the multimeter on 1 and 2 and I get a beep. Should I? When I put the multimeter on 3 and 4 I get a beep. When I put it on 3 and 2 or 1 I get a beep. Is this all correct? I know it looks pretty rough, but I?m stumped. I got the firmware dumped. When I connect the drive I get now power. If I play with the solder I?ll get a blue light on my xtractor. I just want to work on the area causing the issue. Any help appreciated. Thanks guys.
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21. February 2010 @ 15:16 |
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You didn't mention. Did you check to see if your solder is shorting out on the board?
See the bottom picture in my post above. See how I have the "green" removed not only from the trace, but also some is removed from the area around the trace.
If any of the solder is touching the trace AND that area around it, you'll have problems. Looking at your pic it looks VERY possible that you may be shorting out the trace on your board. In your very first picture, in your first post, you can see you've cleared off the trace on the right and the board around it.
In your very last picture it looks like you have covered the trace and the board around it.
I'd clear off a little area around the trace and check with your multimeter to see if you are shorting it out. Meaning, with your multimeter, if you touch a probe on the trace and touch the other probe on the area around the trace, and you get a signal, then it's shorting out.
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Modking30
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21. February 2010 @ 15:38 |
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OMG. This is embarassing. I thought the traces were the TWO green markings. After looking at your pics I realized I was wrong. Fixed the solder and she's alive!!! LOL. Thanks for your help Behtrick!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. February 2010 @ 16:14
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21. February 2010 @ 16:23 |
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The thick line in between the 2 thin lines is the trace.
In your first pic, you've cleared off both the trace and the board itself.
If your glue connects both those cleared spots, then your board is shorting out. That's what I was saying about your last pic. It looks like the glue is touching both the trace and the board.
So what I was saying about testing for a short; clear off an area (left arrow in this bottom pic). Then use your multimeter. Put one probe on the trace (right arrow) and the other probe on the board (area just cleared- left arrow). If you're getting a signal, then your glue is shorting out the trace to the board.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. February 2010 @ 16:23
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Modking30
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21. February 2010 @ 16:26 |
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My confusion was the trace itself. Great learning experience today. After cleaning it off and realzing what the trace actually was (LOL) and testing with a multimeter, she came alive. Flashed and works perfect! Thanks man. Also, I read you should do this for all lite-ons now. Why is that?
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21. February 2010 @ 17:02 |
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Glad to hear it's working. Congrats.
In a nutshell, for security on LIVE reasons. This process dumps the entire firmware. The old process only dumped specific data.
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Modking30
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21. February 2010 @ 17:15 |
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I couldn't have done it without your help. Interesting to hear that. I guess it's not too bad after you know what you're doing. I hope this thread helps some others that faces similar issues. Mine was not doing quite enough homework. At least I'm slowly getting better at soldering. I'd rather solder these than to use that glue crap. Also when you do overcut, do I just use my exacto knife to separate the copper so there is no connect to that part of the trace? I did hear a dremmel makes this much easier.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. February 2010 @ 19:47
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