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RROD error 0102
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BazOne
Newbie
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14. June 2010 @ 20:56 |
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Hello,
I getting the infamous RROD (0102). After several freeze the ring came out, I put the x-clamp replaced kit and the problem was solved for a two weeks, the i get freezes again and red ring. Overheating the console, the problem disappeare but after minutes or an hour the console start to freeze and eventually show the RROD again. I also did the penny fix. You have any advice? Thanks
Baz
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Senior Member
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14. June 2010 @ 22:48 |
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Originally posted by BazOne:
Hello,
I getting the infamous RROD (0102). After several freeze the ring came out, I put the x-clamp replaced kit and the problem was solved for a two weeks, the i get freezes again and red ring. Overheating the console, the problem disappeare but after minutes or an hour the console start to freeze and eventually show the RROD again. I also did the penny fix. You have any advice? Thanks
Baz
Reflow the motherboard. You can either learn how to do this yourself with a heatgun or you can take it to someone in your area that can do a reflow with a machine.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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14. June 2010 @ 23:17 |
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Reflow is the best but what I did and it worked was as follows.
1. Make sure the screws on the bottom aren't too tight. Tighten them all the way and do a quarter turn back. You don't need to Xclamp the CPU, just GPU.
2. When you overheat the console, you need to overheat just the graphics card. To do this, take the fan and lay it on the DVD drive and big heatsink and make sure it's blowing air down. Leave it for about 10 minutes after which turn it off and let it sit (DON'T MOVE IT!) for at least 10 minutes.
3. Turn it back on. It should work. If it does, then either leave the case open or expand the airducts. To do this take cardboard and tape it over the white plastic airduct so that it goes over the entire heatsink and down the sides too. You want the heat to be separated when exiting the console.
If hotter air comes out of your console, it's better. The hotter the air is blowing out, the cooler the air is inside.
4. Last resort is to send it to Microsoft. If it's under 3 years, you can send it to them without a warranty sticker. Usually they fix it as long as it doesn't have pry marks or cracks in the case. Just restore it back to factory with screws and xclamps before you do it. Worst they can do is send the system back untouched.
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Senior Member
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14. June 2010 @ 23:36 |
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reflow dont use the xclamp fix the clamps are there 4 a reason
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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14. June 2010 @ 23:48 |
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Originally posted by infam0us:
reflow dont use the xclamp fix the clamps are there 4 a reason
I disagree, they are there for a reason being that the heatsinks don't fall off but they are there instead of screws because it's easier to manufacture that then 8 screws.
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Senior Member
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14. June 2010 @ 23:51 |
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Originally posted by core2kid:
Originally posted by infam0us:
reflow dont use the xclamp fix the clamps are there 4 a reason
I disagree, they are there for a reason being that the heatsinks don't fall off but they are there instead of screws because it's easier to manufacture that then 8 screws.
so ur telling me your wasting money on nutts and screws when you could just reuse the xclamps?i mean sometimes the screws just dont do the justice
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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14. June 2010 @ 23:56 |
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Screws don't always work but if the problem is due to flexing of the motherboard which is common with the xclamps, then it'll do the trick.
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Senior Member
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15. June 2010 @ 04:59 |
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The x-clamp design is flawed. This has been discussed profusely and the majority of the scene would agree that replacing the x-clamps is a better option. It's important to use the right spacing (recommended 1mm spacing - nylon washer on the bottom, 2mm on top, 1 nylon and 1 steel washer...stainless steel cheese head screws)...otherwise you're in the same boat all over again.
I'll also add that every xbox 360 has a unique heat problem...in which case you may want lap heatsinks, or do a 7, 9, or 12-volt fan mod...if other fixes haven't resolved RROD.
MOST every console I have seen go out with the original X-clamps, has come back to me (a dozen or so?) because the owners have specifically wanted them that way.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 15. June 2010 @ 05:01
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AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
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15. June 2010 @ 07:16 |
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I do both the heatgun fix & the xclamp replacment for a long term fix.
If you can afford it and know somewhere that does it, get a proper reflow, this should permafix it
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BazOne
Newbie
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15. June 2010 @ 18:33 |
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Thanks for the replies im going to try the heatgun fix :)
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AssKlown
Member
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15. June 2010 @ 21:29 |
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Originally posted by core2kid:
Worst they can do is send the system back untouched.
the worst they can do is send it back to you, and put you on the hook for the shipping and handling costs.... I've heard that if they reject it, you have to pay for having them return it to you. Then again, I live in canada, and maybe MS is more stingy here...?
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AfterDawn Addict
23 product reviews
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15. June 2010 @ 22:03 |
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Originally posted by AssKlown:
Originally posted by core2kid:
Worst they can do is send the system back untouched.
the worst they can do is send it back to you, and put you on the hook for the shipping and handling costs.... I've heard that if they reject it, you have to pay for having them return it to you. Then again, I live in canada, and maybe MS is more stingy here...?
Yes they are. I've had it happen in the US and they just sent it back untouched and void the warranty. I didn't have to pay anything.
You can try the heatgun fix but I suggest you try the overheating GPU first. It's not going to get as hot and there is no fear of uneven heating or overheating since the console is on.
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Senior Member
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16. June 2010 @ 01:49 |
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Originally posted by core2kid:
You can try the heatgun fix but I suggest you try the overheating GPU first. It's not going to get as hot and there is no fear of uneven heating or overheating since the console is on.
Using the heatgun gives you an external source of heat rather than the system itself overheating. It gets hotter but that's what repairs the solder.
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Senior Member
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16. June 2010 @ 04:34 |
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The purpose of using external verses internal heat, is that external heating replicates an actual BGA rework station...unless you're actually using a BGA rework station. This is the standard industry way of breathing life back into most motherboards. Using your console to overheat the solder may fix it temporarily, but provides a false positive IMHO. There's a method to the madness, use w00ly's heat gun guide
link
Also, FLUSH under the chips with NC flux! I use acetone to clean circuit board so that I clear any debris from vital components.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
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AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
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16. June 2010 @ 06:01 |
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Originally posted by MrGreaser:
The purpose of using external verses internal heat, is that external heating replicates an actual BGA rework station...unless you're actually using a BGA rework station. This is the standard industry way of breathing life back into most motherboards. Using your console to overheat the solder may fix it temporarily, but provides a false positive IMHO. There's a method to the madness, use w00ly's heat gun guide
link
Also, FLUSH under the chips with NC flux! I use acetone to clean circuit board so that I clear any debris from vital components.
Good techie information there MrGreaser, and I can back this up with the amount of xbox's I had returned when I used to do the xclamp fix alone. Now its the reflow all the way :D
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Senior Member
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16. June 2010 @ 06:02 |
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When used correctly, the heat gun is your friend :D ...just ask w00ly, he'll preach it all day long.
P.S. When melting solder, timing is also key. If you have ever used a soldering iron you know what a cold solder joint is. You may have also heard the term "tin whiskers," and "solder cracks." There is a pretty good Instructable on the principles of reflowing an XBOX 360.
link
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 06:13
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AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
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16. June 2010 @ 06:05 |
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Originally posted by MrGreaser:
When used correctly, the heat gun is your friend :D ...just ask w00ly, he'll preach it all day long.
Defo, when I said reflow, I meant heatgun. I know the better option is a proper BGA reflow, but if I had to do that on all the boxes I fix I wouldnt make any more. Plus I offer a 6 month warranty on my boxs and only had 1 return (which I heat gunned again and hasnt been back for 4 months)
To get instant assistance with Flashing / JTAG / Homebrew from experts for free! click me (Im not one of the said experts BTW)
Make poverty history, cheaper drugs NOW!
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Senior Member
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16. June 2010 @ 06:15 |
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I use a heatgun most of the time. I do have a rework station as well. As one member on the board put it, he would rather use a rework station because even though both do pretty much exactly the same thing, he can just use the correct nozzle, push buttons, and use his other hand to drink a beer. haha. I guess I'm still old school.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
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