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The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!
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NO Fanboy comments needed
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 04:51 |
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I'm not following the point, but I don't think that formula is accurate. You calculated you're 140W or so figure using that, so if it applies to any overclock, it'd apply to a 5% one. In which case you're looking at over 110W for a mere 5%. I could understand stock wattage times (new voltage / old voltage) but then that would imply the curve is just linear, which I'm certain it isn't. I can believe the TDP will be that high, but I don't agree with how you got the figure.
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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5. October 2006 @ 05:07 |
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sam,
If we do a 5% o/c with the psu calculator we get this figure
So you can see,more voltage although .2 or .3v doesn't sound like much, it = a lot more watts.
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein |
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 05:09 |
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Yeah but you don't need 1.6V to do a 5% overclock...
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crowy
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5. October 2006 @ 05:17 |
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Sorry double post!
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. October 2006 @ 05:18
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crowy
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5. October 2006 @ 05:17 |
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sam,
Quote:
Yeah but you don't need 1.6V to do a 5% overclock
That's right,but it may be neccessary for a 59% overclock.
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 05:43 |
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Yeah of course! However, I don't get where the multiplier formula comes from!
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emachine
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5. October 2006 @ 06:19 |
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Real newb, at this type of stuff, but I have an emachine pc, would it burn up alot faster if I overclocked?
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 06:34 |
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Depends. Machines don't "burn up" as you put it, unless you play with the voltages and even then, for the lifetime of a system to be short, you'd need to increase the voltage a lot. 0.1-0.15V isn't too bad. 0.3V and then you're looking at maybe 1-2 years versus 20.
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Leecope3
Newbie
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5. October 2006 @ 07:08 |
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hi me again now i have my 3700+ SD @ 2.53 gig with 1.4v vcore
ive ran stress prime 2004 for 12 hours with no errors or warnings
Ive figured out how to lock the pci to 33.33mhz and locked the pci-e to 100mhz is that right?
my load temps are 44-46 oC anything else u guys think i could do now?
if i up the vcore anymore it seams to get a bit hot underload 50-54oC
my ram is at 1:1 ratio i think with 2T (kingston hyperX BH5 @ 2.8V)
my gfx card is at stock 350/1000 6800GT is it worth doing much to that?
i am unsure of my cpu model (cabne etc)
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Leecope3
Newbie
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5. October 2006 @ 07:13 |
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To the guy with the emachine i support these at work everyday and they have a habit of burning up by themselves never mind with the overclocking can i ask if yours is a X20 model 220 620 820 etc? and does it come with a bestec psu supplied??? could someone also tell me how to quote lol
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 08:49 |
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The heat-sink I'm using is the Arctic freezer 7 Pro, which apparently will transfer up to 200W, the original stock cooler never even made it out of the packing.
Spec is here: http://www.arctic-cooling.com/cpu2.php?idx=79
I've decided that the water-cooling is the only way to go, will either put an order in tonight or tomorrow hopefully.
This setup has finally done my head in with the noise; 7 x 12cm case fans, CPU fan, GPU fan, NB fan, main PSU fan, another fan in the GPU PSU, I?ve also got an air purifier in the office as well to stop the PC getting clogged up, all added together it?s quite loud.
Looking at the following water-cooling parts:
CPU Block Swiftech Storm4
GPU Block: Danger Den - Koosah
Pump: Laing D5 Vario
Res: Not sure?, it depends how I finally work out how I?m going to mount the rad.
Radiator: Alphacool NexXxos Xtreme III 3x Akasa AK-183 12CM Fans (already got those fans as 1 spare and 2 to be removed off the side panel in case).
Hose: Danger Den 1/2" ID ClearFlex Hose (although its 7/16th)
FluidXP+ & UV Dark Blue Dye
As others find, it?s the time to do everything that is a pain, I used to get loads of spare time during the days to work on my PCs, but the work load has gone right up in the last 2 months, so that?s blown that out.
Luckily my wife understands that I?m completely compulsive when I start something so leaves me to get on with it, but even her saintly patience is only going to wear thin if I spend the time I want to working on this.
It might also help if I didn?t keep doing it every time I got a new system.
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 08:53 |
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Square brackets around the words QUOTE and /QUOTE. It does actually say above where you reply to a message! :-)
[ QUOTE ]The thing you want to quote [ /QUOTE ]
without the spaces comes out as
Quote:
The thing you want to quote
emachines, if stock aren't good for overclocking, they'll need many replacement parts to the point where you may as well buy a custom built unit.
BigDK: maybe, but the CPU cooler is the quietest thing in your system methinks. Put a Zalman cooler on the graphics card, use some normal case fans and you'll have a quiet water-free system in no time. Unless I'm gaming (and then only because of the GPU) my system is plenty quiet enough and cool enough on only air. As I type my CPU is at a mere 34 Celsius.
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 09:15 |
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I've already got a Zalman VF900CU-LEDon the GPU (which I have to admit is very quiet, but not silent.
The CPU cooler can be quiet, but not when it's cranked right up, which it needs to be when I'm pushing the CPU, then it becomes the loudest fan in the system.
The FSP fan is quite noisy, but it was a cheaper option to power the GPU instead of upgrading the whole PSU to 1KW+ unit.
6 of the case fans are Akasa AK-183-L2B Ultra quiet 18.0 dB(A) @ 1400RPM so they're quite quiet on their own, it's just that there are 7 of them, I can't think of any fans that are quieter than those ones.
The front fan is the Coolermaster Blue LED one that came with the case, that looks good, but may have to go, as its also quite loud, it makes a low droning.
The NB fan is only a small 4x4 fan, that?s actually louder then the 12cm fans (singularly)
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 09:59 |
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I can believe that about the chipset fan.
My CPU fan is pretty much silent at low voltage, and reasonable at high voltage but the poxy fan controller i use makes a noise (no fan, just bad circuitry) a little bit louder than the rest of the fans if I use low voltage, so there's no point, using 12V is quieter. Only does it for the CPU fan though, I can have the top case fan (which is near silent anyway) at 6V. the other case fans are 1100rpm 7V ones, which are pretty much inaudible, and so is the PSU. The chipset fan is disabled. I didn't do it, it just doesn't spin round. No harm though, my chipset is now at a normal 32-33C. The GPU fan is more than acceptable at idle, completely unacceptable at 100%, but it never needs to be that high thankfully. I can't hear myself think at 70% or more fan speed on it, it must be about 50 decibels at full speed.
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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5. October 2006 @ 15:25 |
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Leecope3,
Quote:
if i up the vcore anymore it seams to get a bit hot underload 50-54oC
.
Thats what I have been discussing with sam.A little extra vcore=a lot of extra heat once your cpu cooler gets overloaded.Are you running stock cooling?Your ram with the BH5 chips can handle a lot more voltage than that(up to 3.8v with adequate cooling because they will get hot).If you have the option in your bios I would give them 3~3.2v.Change them to 1T and try them at 2,2,2,5.Those chips are renound for tight timings at high frequencies.You'll be at DDR 506 at your current cpu speed which should'nt be a problem.If you encounter problems you can always loosen the timings a bit.Try increasing your cpu in 2mhz increments and see how you go.You may need better cooling if you want to increase cpu vcore.
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 15:30 |
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renound? Lol that's not how it's spelt here! 3.8V RAM? Holy hell, that's high!
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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5. October 2006 @ 15:34 |
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sam,
Thats how it's spelt here???
I thought you were English?LOL!!
3.8v is high but those chips love voltage.
Got to go to work now(more house painting:(
Talk later.
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 15:36 |
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renowned is how I know it. Good luck with the painting! lol
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AfterDawn Addict
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5. October 2006 @ 15:56 |
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One of the nice things I discovered is that the Arctic Freezer Pro 7 is a whole lot quieter than the Zalman 9500! It also cools better on my rigs by about 6C. I've now tested both on sockets 748, 775 and 939 with the same result! The noise was easy to compare as both the machines in my house use the same fans in the same model case. The Zalman roars on the Prescott while the Arctic can barely be heard! Arctic Freezer Pro series will be my cooler of choice unless I find something better for around the same money. 2 Arctic Freezer Pros for the price of one 9500. I like the economics of that!
Happy Computering,
theone
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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crowy
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5. October 2006 @ 22:38 |
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sam,
you are right ,it is renowned.My apologies.
Funny thing is if you google renound there are millions of other people who spell it wrong too!!
Just got home and have to paint tommorrow too:(
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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5. October 2006 @ 22:40 |
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BigDK,
I'm surprised your case doesn't levitate with all those fans!!ROFL!!
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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5. October 2006 @ 23:55 |
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One thing that I forgot to mention about this case.
You do need to be a qualified Helicopter pilot to use it correctly!
Its always harder to steer it when its coming back at you across the desk.
I have to agree on the Arctic cooler for performance, it knocks the crap out of any other I've used, and tests I've seen have always put it at or near the top in performance.
Added to that the low cost, it has to be about the best after market air cooler around.
I placed my order for the water-cooling kit last night.
Replaced to Dangerden Koosah with the EK-FC79, and went for the XSPC 15cm passive res in blue.
Also changed to FluidXP to MCT-5.
Now the waiting for delivery begins again, as some bits are on back order.
Also ordered another Raptor to increase the raid to 3 drives (should speed it up nicely).
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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6. October 2006 @ 00:33 |
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If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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6. October 2006 @ 00:51 |
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Thanks for the link crowy.
I'm looking forward to practice my plumbing skills.
Whilst on the topic of putting a water system in; has anyone seen a dedicated water-cooling ball type tap, I've looked everywhere and can never find one.
At present the design is to have an elongated length of tube in the case that will be split and joined via a standard ½? inline connector, this can then be pulled out the case, split and used to empty the system when required.
What I really wanted was to use a T- piece with a length of tubing fitted with a tap on the end which can just be opened to empty the system.
I'm trying to find either a copper or plastic one, as I want to avoid mixing metal types in the system and causing reactions.
Any links to such a connector (UK delivery) would be appreciated.
Another thing I've been looking for is a replacement cable to put between the case mounted Firewire port on the front of my case and the motherboard, as the one that comes as standard is too short to connect to the Firewire port on this motherboard.
I've currently cut and joined two cables together which works but looks pretty crap.
Cable needs to be female socket to 10-Way rectangular block with one pin header blocked, and needs to be up to 1Mtr in length ideally.
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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6. October 2006 @ 01:04 |
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BigDK,
Quote:
What I really wanted was to use a T- piece with a length of tubing fitted with a tap on the end which can just be opened to empty the system.
Have a look at a marine dealer.They should have stainless steel ball valves in 316 marine grade stainless.They start at 1/4inch and go up from there.Get a couple of stainless steel hose tails to suit and your done.Stainless steel/copper won't react with your coolant so it should be fine.
Have a look here(UK distributor):
http://www.hydravalve.co.uk/
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 6. October 2006 @ 02:25
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