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Newbie guide to ARccOS Protection with DVD Decrypter
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00stanggt
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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8. October 2007 @ 17:57 |
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Well, this thread is quite old, but I wouldnt be bringing it up if I didnt have some questions. If there is something newer then please point me in the right direction. Otherwise, here it goes:
I had success last night with ripping, shrinking and re-burning Four Brothers. This was just a test so to speak to see how it worked, and to use up the last few DVD-5 discs I have. The remainder of my burns will be on 8Gb Dual Layer DVD-R media, so I dont need shrink. However, DVD decoder and shrink is what I believe made the process go so smoothly.
I have rip it 4 me, the latest DVD decrypter, DVD Fab HDD, IFO edit, Fix VTS and VOB blanker. I currently have X-men last stand in the DVD player to do another practice burn. Except this time, I want to rip it and burn it full length on DVD-9 media.
My question is, how successfull will I be if I just rip it, then use Nero to burn it? The way I look at it, that was all I did with 4 brothers except for the fact that I used shrink to make it fit on a DVD-5 disk. Unless of coarse the deep analysis feature of shrink skipped the bad files before burning.
How important is it remove the locked or blank cells? Will it basically just lock up during the burn or will I know before hand?
Now onto the cells you talked about. I am extremely new to this, but I can pick things up pretty quickly. Figuring out which cells are bad is the one thing that really confused me in the guide. For example, when I go to IFO mode in DVD Decrypter, it shows all of the VTS files, except it expands VTS_06 to PGC 1 like it showed in your example (except it is VTS_06 instead of VTS_01)showing 25 chapters with a total of 45 cells. Is this the VTS I need to be working in? How do I choose which cells to uncheck during this step? Would it matter if I did not uncheck any of the cells? Once I can grasp this part of the process, I am pretty sure I understand the rest of the guide. Thanks for taking the time to read all the way through this post.
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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9. October 2007 @ 09:42 |
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I have yet to try DVD DL burning. I believe that Nero will work, but I think ImgBurn is the better burning software for this. Maybe wait for some more feedback on this issue. All I know is that Verbatim DVD+R DL are the DL discs that people say are the most reliable.
I think Ripit4me automates the process that is described in the guide. I haven't tried the software myself, but that's what I think it does.
DVDFab also does a similar process but I haven't used DVDFab in a long time. Maybe before I wrote this guide...
I think the easiest method right now would be to use DVDFab HD to rip the movie because you won't have to worry about finding corrupt cells and such.
However, removing the corruption is important if you use the method described in the guide. Just ripping and burning in ISO mode may *possibly* work, but I wouldn't risk it and it will also take many many hours to rip the disc... The locked cells are removed physically in the ripping step. If they are not removed, your drive will get tons of CRC and other errors and rip speed will slow to 0x until the thousands of bad sectors are skipped over and it will go over 1 sector every 3 seconds or so... Basically it will take a long time.
Now, DVD Decrypter will always pick the largest PGC. This is not always correct because sometimes they will throw a fake PGC to trick software. It is easy to find out what VTS the main movie is in by either looking at the VOB files on the disc or playing the VOBs in Media Player Classic or something. It might be scrambled, but you will still be able to tell which is the main movie and which are extras and such.
The cells which are corrupt will appear in the first and last chapters of the movie. If they are not unchecked, it will take a long time to rip the movie. Now the cells which are very small in time are either fake or useless, so they are safe to uncheck. It usually ends up that only the last cell of the first chapter and the first cell of the last chapter are real. There could be more real cells, so don't assume that this rule will apply to every movie.
It looks like you are looking at the correct VTS for your movie. If the movie rips fine, then you won't have a problem. Now, keep in mind if there are more PGCs in the VTS, you will have to use VobBlanker to blank the unripped PGCs otherwise there might be some problems.
It is nice to know how to use this method though. It helps with authoring and re-authoring as well as editing of DVDs. It is not really a method to defeat corruption, just happens that it works for this case as well.
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00stanggt
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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9. October 2007 @ 14:18 |
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Thank you for that speedy reply Jaguar. I was bored so I just started playing with Rip it 4 me and the wizard mode took me through all of the steps of ripping the movie only, fixing bad VOB's etc... all the way through to the shrink process. From that point, I believe I can use the image burn feature of nero to achieve the desired results, or if the final product is pretty close to 4.7G, I will save my DVD-9 media and shrink it that little extra to fit on DVD-5. This is a great website. Glad I found it.
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aabbccdd
Suspended permanently
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9. October 2007 @ 23:14 |
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also remember to burn a DVD+R DL at 4x max,
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00stanggt
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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10. October 2007 @ 06:54 |
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Originally posted by aabbccdd:
also remember to burn a DVD+R DL at 4x max,
Even though the media and drive support 8X? I will do it at the slower speed to ensure quality, but that was the whole reason I bought +R 8X media.
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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10. October 2007 @ 11:24 |
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aabbccdd was referring to DVD+R Dual Layer media. However, I use 4x for single layer DVDR media as well. You can go faster if you use high quality media like Verbatim & Taiyo Yuden, but I only trust Taiyo Yuden.
For DVD+R DL, I hear only Verbatim reliable and this is what everyone here uses, so keep that in mind when you buy DVD+R DL media. I noticed my Verbatim Dual Layers are made in Singapore. I still haven't used any yet...
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aabbccdd
Suspended permanently
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10. October 2007 @ 21:02 |
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yes 4x max for Dual-Layer media
and
8x max for Single-Layer media
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Daalle90
Newbie
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26. October 2007 @ 04:07 |
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Hi, i have just bought Spider-Man 3 on DVD. It has just been released here in Denmark. :) well here is my problem:
I followed your way, by only seleced the last cell in chapter 1, for this movie it is cell 30.
And here we go, everything working just fine, until 99%. I have checked my DVD-Rom Drive and there is no problem with it.
Here is a screenshot to show you what i mean:
And after some time this error shows:
Now i can only cancel the process, but it seems i got the whole movie. I'm using GK (Gordian Knot), but the audio has 4 minutes delay with the final result. Can this have anything to do with the error of DVD Decrypter?
I have searched the internet, but couldn't find anything about it.
So I hope somebody can help me.
thx, Daniel.
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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26. October 2007 @ 11:38 |
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Hello,
The final chapter of Spider-Man 3 likely has corruption just like the first chapter.
You have to use a similar process in finding the correct cell at the end of the movie just like you found the correct first cell. Odds are that the first cell of the final chapter is real and the rest are fake, but hover over the cells to see the playback time. Anything that is too short will be fake. As soon as you find the first fake cell, the rest will be fake.
If you still have problems, you can upload the IFO of the main movie and I can take a look to tell you which cells are real and which are fake.
BTW, how is the picture quality on this movie? I am debating whether I should get the DVD Version or the Blu-Ray version...
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Daalle90
Newbie
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28. October 2007 @ 05:15 |
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Okay, i looked for the fake cells in the final chapter. The first and the last cell of the final chapter seems to be real, the rest, as you said, was fake. But the same result shows as the last time.
Okay, if I will upload the IFO file of the main movie, how and where can I do it?
Yes, i would say that this is the best one, the quality is nice. :)
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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30. October 2007 @ 14:48 |
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whatever VTS the main movie is in, drag and drop to the desktop. Then upload it to mageupload or rapidshare or something like that.
So if the movie is in VTS_01, upload VTS_01_0.IFO
make sure that stuff like anyDVD are turned off. And use Windows explorer to browse the disc.
BTW, I got the Blu-Ray version. It was only $20 compared to $17 for the DVD...
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 30. October 2007 @ 14:49
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Daalle90
Newbie
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30. October 2007 @ 18:21 |
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Well, i've got it now! :D
I found all the fake cells and got it succesfully. Thanks!
But now i would like to rip the subtitles of the DVD.
Shall i do the same as before,like find the fake cells, or what?
I use SubRip. (:
I have tried and as ekspected it didn't work.
:)
/ Daniel.
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PacMan777
AfterDawn Addict
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31. October 2007 @ 15:35 |
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There's something to be said for using the various older software to complete a backup without being shackled to one source and depending on it for updates to stay current. That said, DVDFab HD Decrypter is free, currently being updated regularly, and best of all is freeware. Simple one step rip, run the source files through the transcoder of choice and burn. Saves all the trouble of reripping and finding problem files. http://www.dvdfab.com/free.htm
It's good to know the old ways, but when easiest why not use the newer free way? ;)
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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31. October 2007 @ 16:00 |
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I use subrip beta. Use the ripped files. Just load the IFO and go through the process. Takes 10 minutes or so, but you have to sit by the PC.
What Pacman777 says is right though. The method described in the guide is a manual method of removal. It involves a little more time. DVDFab will do a similar job, but it is automated. It is really your choice. I use the manual method cause I further edit after the rip.
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PacMan777
AfterDawn Addict
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1. November 2007 @ 02:06 |
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Call me lazy. I don't edit much except languages I won't be listening to. That's just unchecking if the software being used doesn't do the job automatically. Just think, and me having DVDReMake Pro. With Shrink 3.2 having Deep Analysis and Adaptive Error Compensation, it can handle some serious compression and not break down. I've used it to near 50% without getting compression induced errors. Normally I go to encoding with Rebuilder near 75-80% for the sake of video quality. Using the software as mentioned, there's little need for editing.
I'm a proponent of learning different methods, both manual and automatic. For doing the constant everyday job, I select the easy way. You can bust concrete with a sledge, an automatic jackhammer, or even a bulldozer.
JaguarGod
Excuse me for jumping into your thread and going on a tangent. I was just letting some of the newbies know there's an easier way if they landed here and didn't look around. It's best to learn as many methods as possible and then use the method preferred. I like having the different options. So, there's room for manual methods all the way to the 1 click programs. It goes to user preference and that's what it's all about. Keep up the good work.
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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1. November 2007 @ 10:53 |
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lol. Don't worry about it. The more info they have the better. It's exactly why I first wrote this guide, so that people will have more options.
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Senior Member
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1. November 2007 @ 19:55 |
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It is good to know the old ways as a saftey net.
Who knows what Sony has up its sleave.
Besides I like to keep in practice.
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PacMan777
AfterDawn Addict
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1. November 2007 @ 23:30 |
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Sony went a bit too far when they made some DVDs unplayable on certain DVD players. I heard they got in a bit of trouble over that one. Sony doesn't appear to be as bad since they started selling Blu Ray. It gave them something else to concentrate on besides the regular DVD releases. There for a while it seemed we got a new copy protection weekly and the software had to be updated accordingly.
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Senior Member
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2. November 2007 @ 11:48 |
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Originally posted by JaguarGod:
if you still have problems, you can upload the IFO of the main movie and I can take a look to tell you which cells are real and which are fake.
jaguargod or pacman..
would it be to much to ask for a screen shot on fake cell?
thanks
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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2. November 2007 @ 14:46 |
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The original post has a screen shot of DVD Decrypter with the fake cells unchecked. When you hover your mouse over them, they will be very short in length, usually under 1 second. Also, keep in mind that a movie has to have continuity. Work backwards (for the first chapter). Once you find your first fake cell, all the ones before are fake. For the last chapter, it is the same concept only in reverse.
This is the easiest way to figure out which cells are fake and which are real.
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Coweater
Newbie
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10. January 2008 @ 02:49 |
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Hey jag,
Just read through this entire thread. hope you can clear something up for me real fast. As of right now, unless I go through those 10 steps or so there is no way to copy those sony protected movies? Ive been trying to burn 3:10 to Yuma.
O ned?
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AfterDawn Addict
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10. January 2008 @ 03:12 |
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JaguarGod
Senior Member
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11. January 2008 @ 00:43 |
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Yeah, you can use newer software like DVDFab HD which is free or AnyDVD.
Use this guide if all else fails or if you feel like doing it the manual way. I personally prefer my method only because I do not like to update software every week or two, but it is definitely NOT the only way to fix the corruption on the discs.
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Coweater
Newbie
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11. January 2008 @ 01:07 |
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ripped with dvdfab (any dvd no on) used vts to fix it then used shrink. to burn. Pain in the ass
O ned?
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