A quick recap on what I've learned using Swap Magic 3.6, Flip Top, DVD Media, etc, since I last posted on having NO games successfully Backed Up as of Feb 9th, 2006:
1) I have the Flip Top for V1-V3 (specifically, I have V3).
2) When using Swap Magic's (SM) DVD-ROM disc to simulate the PS2's 'real game' loading phase, NEVER Eject during the process using the Eject button. This can't be overstated enough. I'm gathering that a lot of the newbies out there trying this new world of backing up games have no idea what SM is actually trying to accomplish for you, the gamer, trying to play a backed up game. So here is my take in layman's terms, Addicts, feel free to correct me, this is one noobs take to other noobs:
a) As a computer programmer that is no stranger to Hardware (HW), I can tell you that SM is essentially trying to duplicate or simulate the loading process that a 'Normal' Sony PS2 performs when an original store bought game is attempted to be played.
b) The reason that SM is necessary in the first place, is that a BU game 'changes' the scope or playing field for the HW of a PS2, as the PS2 no longer recognizes the BU game as a PS2 'original' game, ie, something PS2's hardware or software is 'looking' for, is not there. Since 'it' is not there, the BU game will not be recognized and will therefore, not play. This is where SM comes into play.
c) SM initiates the exact (reasonably?) same boot sequence that PS2's go thru when an original game is inserted an attempted to be played. The difference is, SM stops the entire process from boot to play that an original game will rather seamlessly go thru rather unnoticed by most gamers. That is to say, SM stops after Load is done. At this point, SM has successfully 'gave' the PS2 what it 'wanted' from an original disc, and that is the 'Load feature/process'. Once again, without this Load feature/process that SM provides, the BU won't proceed to the 'play me' phase that we all want.
d) When SM is done, simply flip up the flip top on versions such as my player, and remove the SM disc. At this point, place a BU'ed game in the player. Make sure the BU disc (also the same goes for the previous SM disc) is in the spindle of the player 'correctly'. I've found that the left circular wall of the player needs to have the disc inside the wall, and yet not wedged. The disc needs to be freely in the spindle, with no obstructions to the spinning that needs to come next. I place the left portion of the disc in first, on a slight angle (we're talking a few degrees of parallel here, so the angle is extremely minimal for those trying to visualize). Once the disc is on the spindle AND inside the left curve of the side wall, I am now able to freely move the disc, the disc 'pivots' on the spindle as I put my index finger on the right side of the disc, and then try the left side. After this, I make sure the disc will freely spin as well, this is overkill, but why not, it's worth the double check. Once I've assured my BU disc is freely on the spindle and freely ready/able to spin, I close the Flip Top.
e) Close your flip top until it 'snaps' shut. This will ensure that the disc will stay on the spindle as it, well, spins at a high rate of speed. After closing the fliptop in this manner, you can then press the X at the SM Load Program screen, which is still blinking on your TV of choice.
f) 'IF' the game is going to play, I've also noticed that when I press X at the Load Program screen, a Red Flash appears quickly and immediately after the SM screen goes away. This is what I consider a 'good sign' that my BU is going to play.
g) At this point, your BU will appear, and barring any freezing up, etc, you are now looking at some familiar screens of a game you've possibly played before, and you are probably pretty stoked as well ;-)!
3) Media: I wish the http://www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm site was more updated, but it's an awesome list, so how can one complain?! I say this because I've made some coasters with OptoDisc (-R) which is listed as 2nd Class Media on this site, however, I have successfully (that's right Tokijin and sly ;-)!!!) BU'ed and played the exact same games on Princo -R's, which are listed as 3rd Class Media. I'm now writing the actual media type of the DVD on my successful BU's using my black sharpie, along with the game name itself, so I can be sure of what has worked and what hasn't, without having to go back and place the Media into my nearest DVD-ROM and use one of the handy DVDIdentifier programs all the times I get curious.
Obviously, everyone should repeat 'Taiyo Yuden' about 10 times aloud to burn this phrase into their heads that for PS2 game BU's, since this is so far and away better than the Princo, OptoDisc, etc I've tried; these dvd'r are merely what I've had laying around, etc. The screenshots of the Taiyo Yuden discs using the Nero diag is all one needs to see in terms of utmost quality and long lasting playability, there really is no comparison.
Lastly, thanks for reading, I hope I helped at least 1 person with something new here, or something that was perhaps 'assumed' and/or skipped unintentionally in the other walkthroughs and success stories.
I must say, there really is nothing more gratifying than seeing your BU's MDS/ISO play for the first time on your PS2 :-)))!
whats this got to do with tokijin and being sly mmmmmmm useless post in my opinion and youre dissing tokijin who is a valued member of the after dawn community.
have to agree with g kinda useless but there you go wont be the first and wont be the last
and as for 2nd and 3rd class media yes you will get them to work but they wont last long nor will your lazer and wait to they get a bit worn a you want to rebackup and your burner is laughing at you saying what do you think i am a magician how do you expect them to read that disk
Sorry, you have mis-intepreted the tenor of my post, as it was in no way shape or form a 'diss' on sly or tokijin, rather a courtesy update on a thread that they helped give me valuable advice on a few weeks back when I hadn't had a successful burn yet.
Also, this post may be useless to some, but it has already been benefical to me.
I was going to ask if I should re-burn my ISO/MDS on better TY media to save on the laser and for better reliability, before I blow them away, and you have answered that question with a resounding 'YES'.
I'm not "sly or tokijin", but you'll be better of and wise to burn the MDS file instead of the ISO.
The easiest way to remember is....
<> if I rebuilt the game, then I'll burn the ISO.
<> if it's a straight rip and burn, then choose the MDS file.
Things to remember: always use top notch media i.e. YUDEN, Verbatim "advanced azo" and Hitachi Maxell (made in japan). Make sure your burner has the latest firmware, firmware increase burning performances and media compatibility. In addition, it helps to support book typing or bitsetting sometimes by updating the firmware alone.
WARNING: Do not "update/upgrade" your SAMSUNG BD-D5XXX series (Bluray Player), or else you cant enjoy any of your movie files. How 2 downgrade Samsung BD-D5XXX Series Bluray playerhttp://forum.samygo.tv/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=4244
Alkohol, thanks for responding to one of my posts/threads.
"if it's a straight rip and burn, then choose the MDS file." For clarity, when I choose the MDS as I have been (for BU purposes), isn't the ISO being burned as well OR is this not simply the case? In other words, why is it too simplistic for one to burn the MDS and ISO file and have that play? What does specifically selecting the MDS allow that simply selecting the MDS and the ISO and dragging them to a DVD-R and recording and trying to play it using SM does not allow? Simply curious at this point.
I beleive we are on the same page at any rate, I will be buying some TY's and I will be re-BU the few games I got to work with SM on my FlipTop for all the reasons stated above by the other posters.
