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The (new) Official PC building thread!
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28. February 2008 @ 11:39 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Well that was easier than I thought - the CPU and heatsink slipped on very easily (thankfully).
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28. February 2008 @ 12:14 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Does Thermalright Ultra 120 fit on any any mobo?

SEX
Now Ive got your attention please read my post above
Own: Computer, PS2, PS3, PSP and Asus UX32VD i5 Ultrabook
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28. February 2008 @ 12:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Pepp77:
Well that was easier than I thought - the CPU and heatsink slipped on very easily (thankfully).
did ya remember to use some artic silver 5 paste on the CPU? nice thin layer...

i'll be gone for a while gotta go to the DR. been up all night sicker than a old dog...
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28. February 2008 @ 12:28 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The arctic 7 comes with a good thermal paste (from what Ive read) already applied - so it was just a case of plugging it in.

One thing I am trying to work out as neither motherboard nor case say is the coloured or white cable the positive for the front connectors (ie HDD light and power)?


Edit - Mystery solved with the slow posting on the old PC - I replaced the IDE cable an it now boots into windows in about 20 seconds total (clean install).

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2008 @ 13:11

bigwill68
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28. February 2008 @ 13:15 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Pepp77:
The arctic 7 comes with a good thermal paste (from what Ive read) already applied - so it was just a case of plugging it in.

One thing I am trying to work out as neither motherboard nor case say is the coloured or white cable the positive for the front connectors (ie HDD light and power)?
Are you trying to figure which way your front panel wiring goe's the board is marked positive and negitive for the plugs and case wiring should be also..i saw in on cincyrob case when he brought it to work ya'll got the same case different board you got the same board as me..i believe but i stepped up to the ga-ep35c.. rev 2.1 had the p35c..2.0 but the wiring all the same..

Done out of Here!
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28. February 2008 @ 13:30 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by bigwill68:
Are you trying to figure which way your front panel wiring goe's the board is marked positive and negitive for the plugs and case wiring should be also..i saw in on cincyrob case when he brought it to work ya'll got the same case different board you got the same board as me..i believe but i stepped up to the ga-ep35c.. rev 2.1 had the p35c..2.0 but the wiring all the same..
Yep exactly that - the board is marked as positive and negative but the case cables are not - they are all 2 cables joined at the connector end (so the connector is one 2 plug connector and not two 1 plug connectors) and labelled up as HDD LED, PWR LED etc, but none say which cable is positive and which is negative. I think Ive read somewhere that the writing should always face out - which would make it easy, but I dont know if Im imagining that I read that or not. Also the PWE LED cable is a 2 pin - and the one on the board is a 3 pin, I assume I connect to a positive and a negative pin - not two negative lol, but then theres still the issue of which way round it should go as that header is vertically not horizontally aligned on the board unlike the front header, so theres no way to use the writing facing out rule.
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28. February 2008 @ 13:35 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
GTR: It does, for screen resolutions 1280x1024 and above.
Pepp: As long as it's a decent PSU, then don't worry.
As for the drive, plugging in the power but not the data will never affect a PC, but plugging in the data but no power will often hang the PC before POST as it checks the IDE controllers.
I don't know what would cause the time delay though. Aha, a faulty cable, yeah that makes sense.
The Ultra 120 doesn't come with it pre-applied, but does come with thermal paste. Arctic silver V is much better than what Thermalright provide though.




Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
ddp
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28. February 2008 @ 14:10 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sam, it is set for 1024x760 for sig text.
bigwill68
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28. February 2008 @ 14:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Pepp77:
Originally posted by bigwill68:
Are you trying to figure which way your front panel wiring goe's the board is marked positive and negitive for the plugs and case wiring should be also..i saw in on cincyrob case when he brought it to work ya'll got the same case different board you got the same board as me..i believe but i stepped up to the ga-ep35c.. rev 2.1 had the p35c..2.0 but the wiring all the same..
Yep exactly that - the board is marked as positive and negative but the case cables are not - they are all 2 cables joined at the connector end (so the connector is one 2 plug connector and not two 1 plug connectors) and labelled up as HDD LED, PWR LED etc, but none say which cable is positive and which is negative. I think Ive read somewhere that the writing should always face out - which would make it easy, but I dont know if Im imagining that I read that or not. Also the PWE LED cable is a 2 pin - and the one on the board is a 3 pin, I assume I connect to a positive and a negative pin - not two negative lol, but then theres still the issue of which way round it should go as that header is vertically not horizontally aligned on the board unlike the front header, so theres no way to use the writing facing out rule.
I would have say sense you got the same case as cincyrob.yall two should have the same wiring hook up pattern..I know you got the gigabtye manual turn page 28 front panel header there should circle around the diagram.i know what your talking about the power led
connection mine is in the 3 pin facing vertically with the positive on top..but my case is different than your..i gorget who got a 690 case in here beside cincy..o Greensman do that's right..I'm the Clear case man of them all.i'm heading to work..i'll tell cincyrob to give you a holla on that issue..if no one bets me to it..lol

(Edit: Cincyrob called in sick..I'm left in charge tonite..Get well Cincy..)

@gm..yes he did..lol

Done out of Here!

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2008 @ 15:30

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28. February 2008 @ 14:25 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Thought Id post some pics for all those that like pics:-

Main Pic

Back - managed to route main power cable and can hide 8 pin cable

Front

Inside 1

Inside 2

And some pics of those pesky front panel connections - if anyone can shed any light on if they are right or wrong that would be great:-

HDD and reset

Power LED

Power SW
ddp
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28. February 2008 @ 14:49 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
the colored wires as in green, red & orange are the (+) & the white wires are the (-).
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28. February 2008 @ 14:54 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
@sammy,
The case has a vent on the bottom so you can install the psu as intended. ;) yeh I like those GREEN sata cables too. lol. Man I wish those were GREEN LED fans. :P

@Pepp,
Normally the "colored" wire is positive and the "white" wire is the negative or common wire. ;) hth.....

Yep saw the spider after the pic was taken. lol. Gotta love your kiddies.

....gm

edit: ddp beat me to it... lol.

[img]quoted from creaky, "I think i need a break away from this thread, you are just talking absolute and utter nonsense now. Im off to ban myself and hit myself repeatedly with blunt objects. And if im still conscious after that im going to install Windows Me."[/img]
PC build thread blank media thread Ultimate DVD Backup resource thread what did binkie7 do to me???

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2008 @ 14:59

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28. February 2008 @ 14:57 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Ah, that's nice, I like that.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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28. February 2008 @ 16:35 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Some more photos - everything now installed.

Inside
Closer
Back
Front

Now time to turn it on.
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28. February 2008 @ 16:42 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Drumroll please...

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28. February 2008 @ 16:55 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
all these RC-690 cases we need to start a thread just for them..lol

looks good
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28. February 2008 @ 16:59 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Well I turned it on and its so much quicker than my old one that it had booted into the old version of windows on my HDD before I had a chance to blink lol

However there is one issue the fan on my heatsink is not spinning (it is the only one that isnt),when you first tuen the PC on it does a quick movement then stops. (I have tried reseating the cable and it makes no difference). I have now rebooted it and gone into the BIOS, and is says the temps are 37celcius for the system temp and 26celcius for the CPU temp. If I manually move the heatsink fan the RPMs do change from 0 to about 100 in the BIOS. Now as I look at the heatsink fan it is doing a little 10-15 degree spin to the right then it goes back to where it was and it does this every 4 to 5 seconds.

My voltages are:-

VCore:- 1.204V
DDR2/DDR3 Voltage:- 1.776V
+3.3V:- 3.360V
+12V:- 12.302V

Whilst Ive been typing this the temps have gone up to 39 and 27 respectively.

Could I have a dodgy fan on the heatsink or could it be clever enough to not be turning on as the CPU is still so cool.

Finally I have two exhaust fans See here in that corner and they are moving quite a bit of air, and finally the heatsink finsthemselves are cool to the touch.

PS - four minutes or so since last temp check and about 10 mins to right the post and the temps are still at 39 and 27 celcius respectively.

PPS - Now 15 mins the machine has been on sitting in BIOS and the temps are now 41 and 28 celcius respectively.

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2008 @ 17:10

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28. February 2008 @ 17:25 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
redice,
I missed your question about the router, so sorry for the late reply. You should be able to add as many computers as you have ports. The address is in the router so you don't even need to do anything to make it work. Just open a browser, and you're on line!

I work on computers all the time and not having to install my ISP software on every computer I work on is a blessing. That's why I bought the router in the first place! LOL!! I have 4 Lan ports and wireless but I'm always working on computers! It's become my life! ROFL!!

Best Regards,
Russ


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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28. February 2008 @ 17:34 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Ive just tried just the fan from my stock heatsink and it spun straight away. Ive then plugged the Arctic Freezer back in and turned on, the fan is now spinning at 230 RPMs, but I had to manually get it started by giving it a little nudge with my finger (and the temps still say 41 and 28 celcius for system and CPU). Also if I stop the fan with my finger, I have to start it again with a little flick. Think I may have a broken fan on my heatsink :(

Edit - Thought Id do another reboot and see if the fan started on its own and it did and its now running at 2450 RPMs :D :D :D :D :D :D Seems to be fixed woohoo.

Oh and the CPU temps is now 25celcius - down 3 degrees in the first 2 mins - system is still at 42degrees.

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2008 @ 17:43

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28. February 2008 @ 17:54 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
230rpm? Are you sure? The minimum speed for that fan to stay running at all should be at least 500...



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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28. February 2008 @ 17:59 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Yeah it was definitely 230 - should have taken a picture :)

I think it might have just been stiff as after Id given it that helping hand and had it spinning at 230 for a few minutes it spun up perfectly to 2450 RPM after the next reboot. Now just to work out how to slow it down to a decent level as at these speeds its quite loud lol
tripplite
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28. February 2008 @ 18:03 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
pepp77- How can you live with just one drive??

also does anyone know if there is a a difference in current between e-SATA and SATA, i know the difference between the two but i'd like to know if the amount of current (in AMPS? right?milliamps...) on the e-sata is greater or less then SATA?

so i guess my question is how much current flows through a e-SATA and a SATA cable, must be very low since there data connection..

-tripplite


bigwill68
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28. February 2008 @ 18:05 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
[Pepp77]wrote

However there is one issue the fan on my heatsink is not spinning (it is the only one that isnt),when you first turn the PC on it does a quick movement then stops. (I have tried reseating the cable and it makes no difference).



@Pepp77
i had the same issue on my board with the heat sink fan..i had move it around until it made good connection..i saw pics 1 thing that i did'nt like to see was your rear fan on your case..where the wire is streched across to connected to the mother board..take it and flip that fan around so the wire would closer to the mother board to take some of that stress off the wire just my suggestion..

all in all looks good brother!!

Done out of Here!

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2008 @ 18:11

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28. February 2008 @ 18:06 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Tripp - there was supposed to be two - but the drive I was going to put in my old PC to sell is knackered and so Ive had to put one of this builds 2 drives into that computer. Ill grab another one in a month once Ive been paid again.

Does anyone know the best DVD/RW drive that has a completely black bezel :)
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28. February 2008 @ 18:06 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I'd imagine the current flowing, whilst negligible in either case would be greater with eSATA, but only if you connected multiple drives, for obvious reasons. I see no reason why it would be greater using a different method unless there was significant resistance in the cable, and if there were, the data would probably be full of errors anyway.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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