|
Lite-on 83850C flashing advice please.
|
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
15. June 2010 @ 17:10 |
Link to this message
|
Hi guys, after having read a number of tutorials I've just taken apart my Xbox 360 ready to flash and I was hoping I could get some advice from members who know what they are talking about in regards to flashing it. The details of my DVD-Drive are as follows:
Lite-on DG-16D2S-09C
FW VER: 83850C
Manufacture Date: May, 2009.
A member in the thread linked below mentions that the date of manufacture of this particular DVD-Drive is important:
http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-152/lite_on_worries-854863/
To add to this a member on the Team-Xecuter website mentions that the Lite-on drive, if manufactured in or past July 2009 will require an LT Switch or CK3 probe 2 but mentions nothing about the requirements for a Lite-on drive that has been manufactured before July 2009.
Therefore my question is what do I require to flash my DVD-Drive? I know I need a SATA connection, my computer has an ASUS Rampage Motherboard which I assume should suffice? do I need anything else? can I do it without the tools required for the 83850C drives that have been manufactured after July 2009 (as obviously mine is manufactured before July 2009)?
Thanks for any advice that anyone who replies can give me in advance, and I apologise if I am asking rather simplistic questions as I am new to the XBOX 360 modding scene.
|
|
Advertisement
|
 |
|
|
|
ebxtreme
Member
|
15. June 2010 @ 17:24 |
Link to this message
|
As stated in the JungleFlasher manual: "The 83850C v1 does NOT require additional hardware and can be dumped/flashed using only a SATA connection."
An important thing to keep in mind is that not all on-board sata connections are compatible. If you're computer does not detect your drive, most likely you'll need to install a VIA PCI SATA card in your PC.
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
15. June 2010 @ 17:29 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by ebxtreme:
As stated in the JungleFlasher manual: "The 83850C v1 does NOT require additional hardware and can be dumped/flashed using only a SATA connection."
An important thing to keep in mind is that not all on-board sata connections are compatible. If you're computer does not detect your drive, most likely you'll need to install a VIA PCI SATA card in your PC.
Thanks for the quick reply, so am I able to just wire up the drive to my PC and try to flash it or do I need to do anything else? i.e I've seen threads where people have mentioned the requirement to solder parts of the DVD-Drive. I have a PC that is running Windows 7 x64 Ultimate Edition, is this okay?
Thanks again!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 15. June 2010 @ 17:31
|
Senior Member
|
15. June 2010 @ 18:11 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by FJ0372:
Originally posted by ebxtreme:
As stated in the JungleFlasher manual: "The 83850C v1 does NOT require additional hardware and can be dumped/flashed using only a SATA connection."
An important thing to keep in mind is that not all on-board sata connections are compatible. If you're computer does not detect your drive, most likely you'll need to install a VIA PCI SATA card in your PC.
Thanks for the quick reply, so am I able to just wire up the drive to my PC and try to flash it or do I need to do anything else? i.e I've seen threads where people have mentioned the requirement to solder parts of the DVD-Drive. I have a PC that is running Windows 7 x64 Ultimate Edition, is this okay?
Thanks again!
Although flashing with windows 7 is possible, it requires a lot of configuration. The important thing really is what chipset are you flashing with? VIA 6421 Raid cards for your operating system are highly recommended.
Flashing that drive is a dream, I have a June 09 v1 and it has been a saint while flashing.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
15. June 2010 @ 18:37 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by MrGreaser:
Originally posted by FJ0372:
Originally posted by ebxtreme:
As stated in the JungleFlasher manual: "The 83850C v1 does NOT require additional hardware and can be dumped/flashed using only a SATA connection."
An important thing to keep in mind is that not all on-board sata connections are compatible. If you're computer does not detect your drive, most likely you'll need to install a VIA PCI SATA card in your PC.
Thanks for the quick reply, so am I able to just wire up the drive to my PC and try to flash it or do I need to do anything else? i.e I've seen threads where people have mentioned the requirement to solder parts of the DVD-Drive. I have a PC that is running Windows 7 x64 Ultimate Edition, is this okay?
Thanks again!
Although flashing with windows 7 is possible, it requires a lot of configuration. The important thing really is what chipset are you flashing with? VIA 6421 Raid cards for your operating system are highly recommended.
Flashing that drive is a dream, I have a June 09 v1 and it has been a saint while flashing.
It's good to hear that these are easier DVD-Drives to flash as some of the drives look incredibly hard to do. I just checked and the motherboard I am running is an ASUS Rampage II Gene as shown in the link below:
http://www.techspot.com/review/154-asus-rampage-2-gene/page2.html
Would the on-board SATA ports on this motherboard be okay for flashing the firmware on my Xbox 360 DVD-Drive? is there any way I can check? how hard would this be to do in Windows 7 as I have no PCs available with any older Operating Systems. As always, many thanks for any replies!
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 05:42 |
Link to this message
|
|
*BUMP* Any help please?
|
AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
|
16. June 2010 @ 05:58 |
Link to this message
|
The best thing to do is try it and see, if it does not detect your drive then its not compatible and you will need to by the Via 6421a SATA card.
|
Senior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 06:00 |
Link to this message
|
That is an Intel® X58 /ICH10R chipset. Although that's a nice board, I have no experience with it and it's hard to say whether or not that chipset will work without hanging midflash, even if your liteon drive is detected in the bios.
Flashing with Windows 7 is considered a no-no by many enthusiasts yet I have seen it work just fine through other modders in my area...usually with issues.
Conclusion: don't use jungleflasher. It'll probably hang midflash.
So, for that particular drive....your computer, an xbox, and DOSFLASH, would be my recommendation. Use a boot disk and boot into DOS, that's your best option given what you have. I am leery about you not having a VIA 6421 PCI controller though...given you are using windows 7 you already are facing obstacles.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 07:47 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by MrGreaser:
That is an Intel® X58 /ICH10R chipset. Although that's a nice board, I have no experience with it and it's hard to say whether or not that chipset will work without hanging midflash, even if your liteon drive is detected in the bios.
Flashing with Windows 7 is considered a no-no by many enthusiasts yet I have seen it work just fine through other modders in my area...usually with issues.
Conclusion: don't use jungleflasher. It'll probably hang midflash.
So, for that particular drive....your computer, an xbox, and DOSFLASH, would be my recommendation. Use a boot disk and boot into DOS, that's your best option given what you have. I am leery about you not having a VIA 6421 PCI controller though...given you are using windows 7 you already are facing obstacles.
Thanks again for the reply Mr. Greaser. This website is extremely helpful! so I am considering using your recommended method. Has anybody done this with an X58 chipset before? if I use a bootdisk surely I am getting around the Windows 7 issue so now my only issue is whether or not the SATA connection is compatible? Would you be able to point me towards a flashing guide using DOSFLASH that is specific to my DVD-Drive as a number of the guides I found online are for the V2 DVD-Drives. Finally I was just reading about key-decryption being used as a fail-safe incase the flash gets messed up, should I be doing this too? Thanks again everybody!
|
AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
|
16. June 2010 @ 08:08 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by FJ0372:
Has anybody done this with an X58 chipset before?
Didn't realize that was your chipset, I have done a hitachi's on them with no probs (xp) but Liteon's, benQs or sammys do not work! (in Jungleflasher anyway)
To get instant assistance with Flashing / JTAG / Homebrew from experts for free! click me (Im not one of the said experts BTW)
Make poverty history, cheaper drugs NOW! |
Senior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 08:38 |
Link to this message
|
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 08:57
|
Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 11:25 |
Link to this message
|
the only reason JF would hang is because the 6421 card driver is enable. i run win7 and never had a problem with config, just run everthing as admin! as a part of the Team-Xecuter support staff, i would say that its most likely AUG of 09.
you will need a connect kit of sorts for the lite0n 8xxxx series. that is the easiest lite0n flashable. i know from experience.
just make sure in JF(this is going to be the easiest way to tell if mobo is compat.)that via ports is checked. then just look for the FW revision of the drive.
hit me up..
my TX profile
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 12:11 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Rang3r_Ri:
the only reason JF would hang is because the 6421 card driver is enable. i run win7 and never had a problem with config, just run everthing as admin! as a part of the Team-Xecuter support staff, i would say that its most likely AUG of 09.
you will need a connect kit of sorts for the lite0n 8xxxx series. that is the easiest lite0n flashable. i know from experience.
just make sure in JF(this is going to be the easiest way to tell if mobo is compat.)that via ports is checked. then just look for the FW revision of the drive.
hit me up..
my TX profile
What do you mean Aug 09? the DVD-Drive states the date of manufacture was May 2009. I shouldn't need a connection kit for this should I? I'm getting extremely confused by the contradicting advice.
I've now ordered the VIA 6421 SATA port as it seems to be the general consensus that this is safest method to use and I don't want to have my PC hang whilst the DVD is in mid-flash. This is all I need now right? Now that I have a VIA 6421 coming what is the best method to use when flashing this DVD-Drive?
Thanks again for all help given.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 12:29
|
|
Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
|
16. June 2010 @ 13:27 |
Link to this message
|
shame on you guys. ALL lite-on's require a full dump. Meaning, yes you need a probe 2 or vampire. Cut the 2 traces, dump the firmware and then solder the traces back together unless you use the rebuild board. LT switch is okay as well if you're only doing one drive. I personally use the vampire.
|
AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
|
16. June 2010 @ 14:22 |
Link to this message
|
To get instant assistance with Flashing / JTAG / Homebrew from experts for free! click me (Im not one of the said experts BTW)
Make poverty history, cheaper drugs NOW!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 14:22
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 15:28 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Modking30:
shame on you guys. ALL lite-on's require a full dump. Meaning, yes you need a probe 2 or vampire. Cut the 2 traces, dump the firmware and then solder the traces back together unless you use the rebuild board. LT switch is okay as well if you're only doing one drive. I personally use the vampire.
Are you sure? can anybody (preferably Mr. Greaser as he states he has the same DVD-Drive) confirm this is true? as I really didn't want to have to do this. Just to repeat myself, I have the 83850C V1, this was manufactured in May 2009.
Thanks.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 15:30
|
Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 16:17 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Modking30:
shame on you guys. ALL lite-on's require a full dump. Meaning, yes you need a probe 2 or vampire. Cut the 2 traces, dump the firmware and then solder the traces back together unless you use the rebuild board. LT switch is okay as well if you're only doing one drive. I personally use the vampire.
um ya, if its a V2 drive..
from the dae its a V1 drive, SO NO V cuts are required!!!!
and yes like ALL FW dumps A FULL IS REQUIRED
dont know if your retarded or just happy posting...
you should read the whole post and not just the tittle.
o' and yes I DO KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 16:22 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by miketrev:
Follow this tutorial for all lite on drives
this is for the volume 2 . dont does this method. just google JUNGLE FLASHER and DL the pdf and follow the 8xxx series liteon. i have one myself!!
no need for probes. the aug 09 date would be the date they slipped the 8xxx seriesV2 drive in along with the newer 7xxx series too, these drive does require a V2 probe.
not yours.
yes a connect kit is required.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 16:28
|
AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
|
16. June 2010 @ 17:06 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by Rang3r_Ri:
Originally posted by miketrev:
Follow this tutorial for all lite on drives
this is for the volume 2 . dont does this method. just google JUNGLE FLASHER and DL the pdf and follow the 8xxx series liteon. i have one myself!!
no need for probes. the aug 09 date would be the date they slipped the 8xxx seriesV2 drive in along with the newer 7xxx series too, these drive does require a V2 probe.
not yours.
yes a connect kit is required.
yes but the 7xxx series dump with a probe as stated in the JF manual does not do a full firmware dump as recommended for LT, it just grabs the key
You can also power the drive with the xbox, so you dont "need" a connection kit. It is recommended though
BTW, we did have a guy on here with a May 09 V2!
To get instant assistance with Flashing / JTAG / Homebrew from experts for free! click me (Im not one of the said experts BTW)
Make poverty history, cheaper drugs NOW!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 17:07
|
Senior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 17:22 |
Link to this message
|
I wake up and it's madness in here. As Rang3r_Ri stated, you don't have to make any cuts to get a full dump from the version 1 83850C drive. Getting this particular Liteon is like winning the Liteon lottery, it's easy and it's a great drive.
If these guys can vouch for flashing with jungleflasher for your chipset, give it a shot. As long as if the stage is set correctly, you should be ok.
As I stated earlier, I have no experience using Windows 7 myself but I have seen it in action, most of the time with some complications (i.e. hanging midflash and having to resort to DOSFLASH).
P.S. My connectivity kit was my XBOX, HAHA!
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 17:31
|
|
FJ0372
Junior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 17:39 |
Link to this message
|
Thanks for all the replies, it's good to know I won't have to do the soldering etc. that ModKing30 was talking about. I was getting worried there, but thanks to those who knew what they were talking about for replying. I'm really hoping I'm not one of the rare people who has a may 2009 V2 like the guy Miketrev is talking about but I'll let people know what mine is once my VIA 6421 SATA Port arrives.
MrGreaser is it risky for Jungleflasher to hang mid-flash in any way? I assumed if it hung the DVD-Drive would be useless but you just said that people were able to then go onto use DOSFLASH afterwards to complete the flashing process.
Finally I intended to use the Xbox 360 power rather than a connectivity kit, as Mr Greaser did, are there any problems with this method? having done a little more research myself I've seen it has been mentioned on the hyper-link below that it's a good idea to remove the main laser wire when flashing to prevent possible damage, this shouldn't effect the DVD-Drive receiving power from the Xbox 360 should it? apologies if the questions I ask are obvious I'm new to the Xbox modding scene, and I must say this process is a lot harder than it was more me modding my Nintendo Wii.
http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showp...221&postcount=9
Thanks again to all of those who have replied with very useful information.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 17:45
|
Senior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 17:52 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by FJ0372:
Thanks for all the replies, it's good to know I won't have to do the soldering etc. that ModKing30 was talking about. I was getting worried there, but thanks to those who knew what they were talking about for replying. I'm really hoping I'm not one of the rare people who has a may 2009 V2 like the guy Miketrev is talking about but I'll let people know what mine is once my VIA 6421 SATA Port arrives.
MrGreaser is it risky for Jungleflasher to hang mid-flash in any way? I assumed if it hung the DVD-Drive would be useless but you just said that people were able to then go onto use DOSFLASH afterwards to complete the flashing process.
Finally I intended to use the Xbox 360 power rather than a connectivity kit, are there any problems with this method?
Thanks again to all of those who have replied with very useful information.
As long as you have a full verified dump of your drive before it hangs, you're good. to make sure, read a few times, and compare. If you have an extra 360 drive around, spoof it with your drive info to verify it is right.
When the system hangs it's USUALLY when you are writing to the drive, not reading. If it does hang when you are writing, power-cycle the console, send out the lite-on erase command and retry.
Using the xbox for the connectivity is risky in the sense that you have a system that exposed to outside elements running electrical current. You have to be very careful to not short anything, that's why you were advised to use a connectivity kit. It is possible to flash with the console though...again, very carefully.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 17:53
|
AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
|
16. June 2010 @ 18:03 |
Link to this message
|
|
Lite on drives are very hard to brick, if it detects it, i would give it a go. You prolly have a v1, fingers crossed.
If it fails then you can always recover the drive with dosflash.
Powering with the xbox may flag with M$, i always do it myself and ive only had 1 ban (i have a few boxes)
To get instant assistance with Flashing / JTAG / Homebrew from experts for free! click me (Im not one of the said experts BTW)
Make poverty history, cheaper drugs NOW!
|
Senior Member
|
16. June 2010 @ 18:14 |
Link to this message
|
Funny, after working on a couple hundred consoles, and testing things as they were discovered, I am fortunate to have never been banned on my personal XBOX 360 consoles, and have never experienced RROD! It's funny how life works. You have the skill to fix something, and it never breaks.
"All drives should be updated to Lite Touch + (LT+) firmware if playing on XBOX live. Samsung drives and pre-78/79 Hitachi drives do not utilize AP 2.5. All other drives are considered to be detectable by Microsoft (YMMV). Make sure all rips are ABGX verified, contain SSv2, and patched AP2.5 (where needed). XGD3 must currently be burned on new drive with PC Burner Max firmware for 100% rip. All modded consoles can be potentially unsafe for use on XBOX live."
|
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
|
Modking30
AfterDawn Addict
|
16. June 2010 @ 18:34 |
Link to this message
|
|
ALL LITE-ONS REQUIRE A FULL DUMP. Noobs helping noobs. Stop telling people it's V2 only, when it's every signle lite-on that exists. Yes you can get a dummy.bin from a 707 method or V1 series, but your laser will die and then you will come back crying asking why. All lite-on's require soldering and cuts.
@FJ0372 everyone that says different is WRONG!
List of reasons why:
1.) Dumps Laser calibration (dummy.bin method does NOT!)
2.) Full dump to be safe on xbox live
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. June 2010 @ 18:36
|
