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Best DVD-R and +R for ps2 Back-ups
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jay33
Member
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8. July 2003 @ 12:51 |
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Tight, just download DVD Decrypter, which is a free program. using this to burn ps2 backups is simple and very reliable.
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Tight
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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8. July 2003 @ 12:53 |
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does it do both cd and dvd ps2 games
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jay33
Member
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8. July 2003 @ 13:02 |
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I don't think dvd decypter does cd's, since they don't need to be decrypted. You can use about anything to copy a cd based ps2 game. I use record now to copy cd games, which came with my computer.
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Tight
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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8. July 2003 @ 13:04 |
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i need a ps2 dvd copurer
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bav
Newbie
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30. July 2003 @ 19:18 |
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Hi guys, I'm out in Australia, where DVD writers have just hit the market at good prices.
I have a V4 PS2 and currently using a action replay to play my Cdr backups, note I can't play any backup games that are more that 74mins. Was told it was impossible, but I've read on page 2 or 3 that someone has?
I have just bought the HP300i or 300n(not sure) (DVD+RW)
I have no mod chip only the action replay CD.
I need to find out a MOD chip that will do both DVD+R or+RW and 80mins CDRs. I would like solder free modchip, but if thats not possible then a solder version must do.
Any ideas guys.
Thanks.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 30. July 2003 @ 19:35
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onizuka
Newbie
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30. July 2003 @ 19:57 |
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bav most modchips need to be solder. also it also depends on which one u get. some needs 1 wire and some needs a lot. all i can say is if u lookin for a direct boot modchip ur gonna spend like over 100 $ the chip and gettin it soldered. but its well worth it. the only problem when u get all that done is how to get the games. lol. anyways in ur situation u dont need a modchip. there is a way to play backup dvdr with a gameshark or a action replay. its almost the same trick as when ur playin 74 minute games but instead u put in a real dvd game and swap it with the backup. but i don't have time to explain. in the previous discussion we explained how so u could look that over. the thing im talkin about is for people who know how to swap or people with the nonsolder modchip its both the same. or look online. ur technique of swapping is like the non solder modchip except they have to do the swapping by holding down the eject button. well like i said just look it up or check the previous statements.
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Member
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1. August 2003 @ 21:58 |
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The best DVD+R to use with PS2 fliptop/SMDs are Fujifilm for me. I tried Verbatim DLPlus, didn't work. Backed up NCAA Football 2004 with Fuji. I have a version 4 (GT3 edition) PS2
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Superlac
Newbie
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4. August 2003 @ 08:04 |
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Hello...can somebody tell me if Easybuy200.com is real or not. Well I just bought a Magic 3.1 chip from them. And I just read that it's a "fake" or "clone" but they claim to be orginal. Here's the link
http://www.modchip.ca/install/ps2/magic/magicfakes.php
So is it good to use that chip I just received?? Or should I return it ?? Please help...
P.S. The chip that I just received has "Ubicom" on the chip. According to that link on top. It's fake/clone.
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dmszyszk
Newbie
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7. August 2003 @ 19:23 |
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OK. Got some info/question for y'all.
First off, I am not a noob to the DVD scene, as I have a PIONEER A05=DVR-105 = -r,-rw Burner. I just updated the firmware to 1.33 (http://forum.firmware-flash.com/viewtopic.php?t=12632). This website (http://forum.firmware-flash.com/) is good for firmware updates for burners.
I also have a PS2 version 7 with a DMS3 chip installed by http://www.premods.com/ - excellent recommendations to them - i sent it out last tuesday (7/29/03) to Phoenix from Michigan via USPS ground and got it back today (8/7/03) via Fed Ex with a DMS3 for $130 total. Very fast and it works awesome. Anyways, not to sound like an ad, I burned a game on a Princo -R DVD (Metal Gear Solid 2: Sons of Liberty) and it worked great. I used Alcohol 120% to create an image of the DVD then burn it, although based on all the stuff I'm reading here, I'm gonna try Record Now Max.
The price of the media and compatability may not be the only things you want to take into consideration, however, when purchasing DVD writable media. The reflectivity of the media is a big factor as that determines how long your laser will remain operational. New lasers run around $70-80, so it is something to consider for 5-6 months down the road. I have info on this that I will make a separate post (A copy of info I found on another forum).
My Question....
Does anybody know of/have a table of medias with their reflectivities?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 8. August 2003 @ 11:57
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dmszyszk
Newbie
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7. August 2003 @ 19:27 |
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the promised dvd reflectivity info (not written by me I take NO CREDIT for this - from Charlie on http://www.ps2newz.net/):
UNDERSTANDING DVD/DVD-R ISSUES
Success with DVD/DVD-R on the PS2 is, first and foremost, a question of reflectivity and the causes of poor reflectivity.
The exception is (my thanks to Phreaker47 on ISONews for this) a game like GTA3 that is coded to stream data on the fly. Phreaker47 wrote " ...especially when you are driving through the cities... parts of the landscape that are just beyond the horizon are loading without interrupting the action. So, the effects of quality difference in DVD-R medias are exposed here. If there's a "hiccup" in GTA3, you're screwed because you need that data loaded right away or it will interrupt your game.. hence, the screen freezing with the message 'Error Reading GTA3 DVD', and the other effect being messed up textures that failed to load properly in this short time window". The v5s are faster PS2s and the effect is far less marked on those models.
Sony calibrate their CD and DVD laser diodes so as to focus the laser beam tightly to a given spot. There is a number printed on the side of the laser unit that states the amount of current utilised to deliver that beam for the particular laser diode.
Dealing just with the DVD laser diode, this means if the laser can draw c. 500mAmps (I think that's the value) for the red laser beam, then a DVD (or DVD-R) with reflectivity in the range 45% to 85% will be effectively read and processed by the firmware. Indeed a new PS2 laser can resolve Princo DVD-Rs (see below) which have reflectivity below 45%.
An important point to note: Laser Azimuth adjustment (the screw that angles the lens on the sled assembly) can be sloppily set by Sony as there is more tolerance when reading pressed CD/DVD. If the angle isn't right for DVD-R, then reflectivity will be poor because of deviation. So look at that question (separately posted).
If the laser can't deliver the correct power, like it's near fried, worn out or whatever, then it will only read a DVD (or DVD-R) if there is sufficient power to read a disk with reflectivity higher up the band range. At worst, it will appear to emit light, but at a power lower than can generate a properly reflected return beam.
DVD-Rs have reflectivity in the range (my estimate) 15% to 65% and this is price related. I haven't been able to measure nor discover the reflectivity of Princos, but I estimate below 40%. But I know that Mitsui are 50% and Verbatims or Traxdata around 60%.
So now that you can see what makes a DVD drive sensitive, let's look further under the PS2 hood.
The Laser - does it wear out?
The" Laser" means the Laser Diode, the semiconductor that lases to produce coherent light. This diode is a sandgrain in size reaching 70 deg Centigrade. A very small increase in current (like pushed through by 5v or by over-reducing the resistance using the recalibration pots) will take the temperature through the breakdown barrier so that it lases dark light or weakly lases at the right wavelength. So yes, like a light bulb, the Laser will eventually wear out according to use. Also, like a light bulb, it is always ON when a disk is in the tray.
Does a DVD-R wear the laser out?
A cheapish DVD-R has about/less than half the reflectivity of a pressed DVD and the laser power required to avoid re-reads is higher on poor media, achieved by re-calibration. A more expensive DVD-R (e.g. Verbatim) has about 60% ideal reflectivity which, with a clean lens, is sufficient to work with the standard laser power, esp. on a v5. So the laser will wear out sooner if you re-calibrate it and even sooner if you over-calibrate (by more than, say, 10%).
Red Screen of Death
When the disk is inserted, you can hear something akin to a mouse squeaking very rapidly. That's the lens moving up and down to focus and side-to-side to locate the groove that it follows to obtain the data. This lens movement is activated by magneto through tiny wires, current and magnets. Then the sled traverses the disk to measure its diameter (there are mini sized audio CDs).
When focusing, it tries first in red light; if there is reflectivity, the disk is a DVD/DVD-R and it can boot; if it is not a PS2 disk, the red screen appears.
If there is no reflectivity, it tries infra-red light and if there is then reflectivity, the disk is a CD/CD-R; if it is not a PS2 disk, the red screen appears.
If there is still no reflectivity, it goes to the browser. Either the lens is dirty or the laser cannot muster enough power and needs recalibration and eventual replacement.
There is an outside chance that the laser needs adjusting for the lens being parallel to the disk (azimuth) or the sled being parallel (the white cog).
To summarise
The PS2 Laser unit is governed by the combination of media and laser calibration/adjustment (assuming the lens is clean). The standard calibration should do for all pressed media and good quality backup media. The physical adjustment aspects, particulary laser azimuth, sometimes need attention when backups won't play (assuming the modchip is correctly installed).
Many users experience greater noise from the laser unit when playing less than ideally produced PS2 backups. Logically, if the laser unit is working physically harder, it may wear out, or lose its calibration, earlier than if it were only reading pressed media. The best approach to these issues is to use the best media you can (fewer "re-reads" means the laser unit doesn't work as hard), avoid non-optimised DVD-Rips if you can, burn backups at slower speeds, keep your laser clean, and keep your media clean. Many users have been playng backups on their PS2's for several years now, and are still gaming away. Laser unit wear and tear is, however, the price you potentially pay for playing backups.
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saxs
Inactive
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9. August 2003 @ 03:29 |
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Is it possible that the older ps2, for instance the original version and ps2 of the initial release, will have trouble reading
dvd-r's like say the newer ps2's would?
Thanks.
saxs
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